Starting the 2nd day in Kompong cham with a quick breakfast down the road, I saw my driver across the street by the river waiting and figured I mine as well get started a bit early. Our first stop passing some of the same scenery as yesterday was a massive bamboo bridge going straight across the river to a nearby island. The bridge is really neat and just an interesting way to see the lengths the people here will go through to get places with very little means. Even crazier is the fact that the bamboo bridges get washed away in the wet season! There seasonal lol.

    I was about 20 minutes drive away to the next stop going along some crazy dirt roads and over a small bamboo bridge only made 3 days ago. Just after the bridge I had to walk up the hill as the not so great bike was not getting up it with me on it. Just a few minutes later we arrived at the old wooden temple called Maha Leap. Its over 100 years old and made completely out of wood which is actually an accomplishment since the Khmer Rouge destroyed nearly ever one of them during there regime. From the outside it looks like a crummy white house of no interest but the inside is another story. Walking into black and gold columns all made from wood, the entire interior amazes me with its multitude of columns. The ceiling was fully painted with scenes from myth, the columns paint faded from it being stripped by khmer rouge troops before converting the building for there own use. Although it was seriously impressive I found myself distant and not really enjoying anything for whatever reason. I think its perhaps from just needing to stop and relax somewhere for a while but either way I don't like it. Exiting, I briefly check the outside before getting back on the bike and heading into town for the next stop.

    Wat Nokor, an 11th century temple, was the next stop for the day. The outside was surrounded by the familiar outer wall with entryways but upon going through I noticed another wall not to far ahead with the main buildings inside. I did a walk around this wall and about halfway around one side I could see a really great site. There was a modern temple crammed within the grounds of the inner ruins, seemingly mixed right into the structure. I keep going around the outside until making a compete rounds and heading inside. the entryway in maybe 1ft from the wall, really making everything feel crammed and certainly wall overkill.

    Inside had a much more open feel but still quite cramped. The center sanctuary was filled with buddha statues and it was made impossible to go behind because of the giant new temple squeezed within inches of the stone wall. What possessed someone to think it was a good idea to put a modern building inside these ruins is beyond me but.... I walked around looking at the strange top of the main tower, the lintels, and well of coarse the painted columns and all around strangeness of the modern building. I walked around for a bit along with 3 others that where here, trying to get the most out of the place. I went outside after a little while and was ready to love on to the next stop. Heading outside the wall on the way out I could see a section that was crumbling and climbed on top. the view from up here gave me an amazing scope of how the place looked, including the horrible modern building inside.

    On the way out I managed to actually get lost in the walls and go the wrong way,  but I did come out to a small dirt road with an amazing line of trees on both sides of the road. Truly a nice view. On the way back out the front, I jumped a little scared as another lizard popped out from leaves and caught me off guard. This little fellow was really cool looking with green colors all over. I photographed him for a bit before moving on.

    After leaving Wat Nokor I went to two mountains across from each other locally called man hill and woman hill. Every local has a story about why the woman hill is taller usually with males being lazy as the reason. The first up was woman hill which although there was a good view at the top, it wasn't worth 300 stairs at all. I went down quickly and made my way to man hill. It was much more lively but quite strange being filled with funeral monuments and strange library's with giant bayon style heads on top. I walked around for a bit in this Han Chey like mini amusement park before heading back to the room. My lack of interest today made the day go by fast, but getting back I didn't mind at all and just wanted to relax and eat.

    Perhaps I'm just starting to feel the wear and tear all this traveling and being sick, probably should just take it easy for a day or two.

    Woke up around 7am rather slowly and really in no rush went to the lobby to grab breakfast. I had my things packed and while paying for the room decided to just book a ticket through the service they had here to Kompong Cham. I had about 20 minutes to wait which went by fast before a minivan pulled up to take me with one other passenger inside. I was quite shocked to see the van but wasn't going to complain. We continued to pick up people until a nearly full van as usual, however we soon pulled into the bus station after fighting traic and I realized it was just a pick up service and I was indeed taking a cramped bus. Oh well, I got my seat and bad settled and just dozed off until the pit stop. Grabbing a pineapple, I just waited the time away being getting to sleep again and coming to in Kompong Cham.

    I got a quick ride to the river by a moto driver who spoke great english, which I really found helpful and makes things straight forward. You get a really nice time on the road, you can chat, etc. And so of coarse I was told the guesthouse ride was free and all he cared about was what I was doing tomorrow. So I decided to do the majority of things here tomorrow and would see one sight with him this afternoon after eating. I got my stuff into my room and headed next door to a nice restaurant serving western food. Still having close to an hour I decided to head over to the river and just watch the boats fish away. The old French lighthouse could be seen across the river, and I wanted to go up if I had time later.

    I saw him ride up in front of where I was staying from across the river and went to meet him and we got started. I was glad to be going around here with him as he started with the bits of info right away with the fact that the people fishing are Muslims living along the river catching there own fish since most meats are pork products here. I get info the entire ride, which passed some seriously amazing countryside and some of the greenest fields yet to be seen by me. The ride was not that long, getting to the base of the mountain before long. I was shocked and relieved to find out that we were driving up the road that went around the hill. I had gotten so used to walking hundreds of steps it was a welcome change. We pulled over still near the bottom to find a small tower from the 7th or 8th century from The Chenla Empire which later became the Khmer empire responsible for Angkor. It was interesting to see but it was small and little to do but appreciate the fact that it had alot of historical value for those interested in Khmer past.

    Getting to the top, I drive moto and all to the back of this crazy large flat top with alot of building on it. There were two small Chenla buildings the first being a red brick tower with some very old inscriptions inside and out. The interior had a really great head of Jayavarman VII, which although modern I really liked. The second was a square box which was strange, and my driver tells its from the 1st century which is actually before those people were a force. I think he was going to far back and was wrong, but who knows, what was clear was that this was older than anything I'd seen before and unique but not really special. I ound it rather plain after the first few seconds of interest from its shape.

    We then drove to a place by the cliff edge and parked where he invited me to explore the grounds while he sat in the shade and waited for me. I immediately noticed the view of the far reached of the Mekong river, with beautiful islands in teh center view and various types of plants and tress gracing every viewpoint. between 2 balconies was a set of stairs going down to a dock at the river. The entire staircase was flanked by trees and was really quite pretty. The islands and river were in the top portion of my view which was tunneled by the stairs straight down. I really wanted to go down, but it was hot and doing stairs after getting a ride up here just seemed wrong. To the left, there was a really crazy looking set of 4 small pavilion looking things around a pond. They had a clownish feel, not really sure how else to put it, but they seemed out of place. So after appreciating the view I went exploring.

    Before I made it into the heart of all the buildings here which I could from a distance, I stumbled upon the coolest monkey in the world. Sitting on a ledge completely alone ripping apart some food, he acted as if there weren't 50 people sitting nearby looking over the river view. I watched the silver black faced animal for quite some time just amazed by him. I was able to get quite close and really loved it. He was like nothing I'd seen before, never mind actually in the wild. He's not in the forest for sure, but he does go as he pleases and I found out he just comes here and monks fed him so now he comes when he's hungry. I couldn't be happier since I really enjoyed seeing him.

Heading into the heart of the large area up here, I'm just dumbfounded at the entire place. I have really no idea how I hadn't really noticed it all coming up but it was basically to me a mini amusement park with a buddhist monastery in it. Statue gardens sit next to monks quarters, giant fruit statues line the sides of towers and near temple grounds, various structures that have no place and I have no idea what they are, music playing... I could go on. The place just made me laugh really hard, like nothing I'd ever seen or could even have imagined. The giant mango overlooking in the river was quite nice lol. I walked around the rest of the grounds, getting barked and chased by the dogs that roamed the grounds, stumbling upon the crumbling remains of 2 more chenla towers with really nothing left. The entire place was really something and probably deserved more time that it got, but after I had my laugh it all blended in as you can only laugh at seeing so many fruits. On my way back to the bike I saw the monkey walking on 2 legs, yes 2, which was really awesome as the silver color made him look simply fake to me. A walking stuffed teddy bear, thats what he made me think of. I made my wait back to the driver who was sitting down resting so I joined him. He was having a drink a sugarcane and suggested I get one which I did and soon after tasted the sugariest drink ever, I know quite shocking since its sugarcane after all but really it was strong. We headed off soon after, and I must say I really enjoyed the time here.

    On the way back passing the just gorgeous countryside and that I'd passed along the way I was more than pleased when we pulled over becuase he wanted me to try a local fruit. It was along the countryside and across the road I could see endless green. After trying whatever it was I tried as I can't remember the name we walked over into the fields. The vast green was great made all the more so by the women tending the fields, the fox looking dog jumping through the fields, farming grazing cows... It had a real country feel to it, and man the dog was just so cool to see disapparing into the crops.

     Back on the bike a few minutes down the road we pull off the road again this time at a farm for growing fruit and of all things flowers. Walking on thin raised lumps of dried dirt along irrigation channels I stumble along until we reach the godly fields of flowers sitting in the water. I'm told there actually given to the temples and sold to various places for offerings etc. Looking at the vast field, I was in awe at the beauty of so many huge flowers all in one place. Getting close, the camera really brought out the detail that the eye has trouble seeing. Before they flower, they are acutally a fruit which although I tried, I actually felt guilty stopping on of these beautiful things from blooming....

    Back in town, I had dinner at the place next door again, Lazy Mekong Daze Restaurant addicted to there amazing western food. The spaghetti with Alfredo and mushrooms is particularly great, which I would have more and more after, but dinner tonight was chicken and potatoes. The highlight of my night was the full moon which was completely orange, the color of a sunset as the glow off the river made it change into a most beautiful color. In the morning the full tour of Kompong Cham, and looking forward to exploring this amazing riverside wonder of a town.

    Woke up early this morning to try and get a early start on the day as climbing mountains in midday heat is just no fun. The plan for the day is to stop at a mountain on the outskirts of the city with views of the entire surrounding area, plus a 11th century temple on top which is all the better. On the way back, stopping at Tonle Bati, a local small lake which is really a day trip holiday for locals on the weekend but sports a 3rd temple named Ta Prohm by Jayavarman VII nearby.

    So I grabbed a quick breakfast and then set out to find a driver. I walk for about five minutes until I'm a little out of the way where I can find drivers not working the main area and get cheaper fare for sure. I find one guy who wants $20 for the day but who can barely communicate it to me and doesn't want to budge which isn't going to happen. Seeing this another opportunist driver pulls up with quick english skills and lets me work him down to $13 for the day. I look over and know the other guy says OK $15, just not getting that theres already lower than that out there so I just cut it there and take Mr. $13. Getting out on to the roads leading there took forever in morning traffic, Phnom Penh looking as crazy as any major city back home in the morning maybe even crazier considering the driving habits here. Takes practically a half hour to get 10 blocks, but once on the open dirt roads its smooth riding. After maybe a little more than an hour total and one stop for directions later, we pull down a long gravel road leading to the base of Phnom Chisor. The stairs leading up are straight ahead at the end of the road your coming in on, and they look quite intimidating even after all my long stair climbs. Better to just get going and don't look back, so off I was...

    With almost 500 very steep steps its certainly no easy climb, but at least there are actual steps and not just dirt like some others. Its really straight forward aside from the following of young man who had some mental disorders and just couldn't stop laughing. He tagged behind for a bit but eventually lost interest. Out of breath but at the top, passing the very familiar big lizards that seem to be all over the hills here, I see the quite tranquil setting on the top. I pay a small fee and head straight past the newer active monastery that inhabits the top and head for the good old ruins. A lady starts following me pointing to the most obvious things and saying stuff like " Buddha " when theres a 10ft tall one in front of my eyes. It's at that point where if you don't distance yourself and stop it that you'll end up paying for a "guide" at the end of your short visit. At first its no big deal, but if you give $1 to 100 different people, one at every sight that you go to and never turn them away, well quite frankly your out a $100 and that adds up fast. So one my own I make my way to the temple grounds seeing an older group of maybe 10+ seniors with there guide visiting the temple. I looked at them seriously impressed, since that climb had me almost heeled over, but hey good for them. As I get to the base, I can see the modern buildings just behind the old, with a really nice looking set of trees and bushes lining both.

    Starting at what appeared to me to be the front, I go right and start around the outside in by now my usual pattern. Along the side wall there are maybe a dozen pieces against the tall still standing outer wall. They look rather modern and maybe be from the active monastery, but if they are older they are quite impressive made all the more so by the grass inching its way through them and the wall. When I get to the corner, looking around I can see the very well preserved back entrance and its entryway going right to the face if the mountains edge.

    Its upon going over the just that same entryway that I realize that this was without a doubt the original front entry as I stare to the bottom on the mountain with stairs all the way down. I can see at the base on this side a stone building which would have been part of the long pathway up the steps leading to the temple. I can almost see the pillar flanked steps leading to the building like it must have looked back then. Who knows just how far it went, but looking further I can see another same type of building far in the distance behind the other. It almost looks like from the river, there was maybe a building every mile or so leading to the steps at the base of the mountain. It was really great and staring at gave me lots to ponder. The circle dirt road that went around the building at the bottom, including the stairs, has a road going off perfectly in all the main directions. I can't help but think that those same roads were there almost 1000 years ago, and not much but the dirt has changed. Even if they are newly made roads, its obvious by the layout that something similar existed back then as well. The views on either side offered amazing views of the countryside, and you can really see the beauty of putting the temple on the edge here.

    Just taking all this in here, I can't help but think about all that there is too see out there in all the countries this world has, and I can't think of any place where there are more monuments per mile that have survived more than 1000 years. There are literally thousands of temples in Cambodia, and virtually every city or town has some to offer visitors. I just can't think of anywhere else where the same can be said. It's truly amazing here.....

    Finishing my circle of the outside, I make my way once again to the front but this time I enter and stay my way through. Through one of the doors one of the monastery dogs just caught my eye as heat baked in sun just laying there. I looked around the center which was actually in really good shape with really no random stones anywhere except for in between the walls. The space was small, being a rather simple temple but that was actually really nice as it makes things very easy. The layout seemed really jammed in the small space, but I really couldn't see much from where I came in. I went through a small hallway and climbed on some stones from a broken portion of the wall and got a semi high view of the grounds behind the main building and towers. From here I also was able to admire the lintels above the many doorways, which where of really great quality here.

    Moving around the middle but going around rather in the center building, I notice that one one side there is a rather interesting head of a creature that is obviously part of an old drainage system. I know the Khmer were pros at moving water, but seeing this was really great.

    Around the side and heading back to the part of the center you'd see first coming up the ancient steps is where all the towers where. Here you can immediately see the cramped nature of the space, and also that it was added onto later after the original construction. Towers are squeezed within inches of touching the center sanctuary and it all just looks rushed and rather careless. Someone wanted more towers in this place for one reason or another and how it looked to the eye didn't matter. One of the corner towers of red brick had a "modern" wooden door blocking entry with yellow paint on it that just forced you to look at it. It has " Your not allowed in here " written all over it and has that feeling that would make a young curious kid kick it down to see what was inside. I settled or looking through the broken pieces but there was nothing but a small shrine. From there I went inside the remaining space in the outer wall, which was covered in grass and other greenery which was quite nice especially the yellow flowers. I entered some of the other towers which looked exactly the same, but these simply where now being used to house random pieces of stone yet to be put back in place. Making my way to the back again, I skip going inside the center because lots of locals are doing some type of offering inside. I make my way to the back hallway and pass some large yoni's but no linga's on top, and then a large window with a great view of the outside. Not bad views for the inside of a wall.

    Back to where the steps are, I look down and have an urge to walk down to the lower building. I can't get it out so before long I was making my way down the crumbling steps. I made it about halfway down when I stopped and looked back up to get a picture of the entryway from the mountainside. I could see the dirt-way going all the way to the river now so clearly and as great as it would have been to go all the way down it, I just lost the energy to do it. The heat wheres on you so easily I just wasn't going to make it never mind having to go all the way back up. Just going back up what I did descend killed me and had me aching for water. Luckily I knew there was some backwhere I had to pay for coming up here and headed right there.

    It was really nice up here and altogether a good way to spend the morning. Great combination of things up here and the landscape a great place to sit and relax if you come up when the sun in a space where you can sit shaded from it. I made my way back down where the driver asked if I wanted to eat before going to the next stop which I probably should have, but I just wasn't hungry. So off to Tonle Bati I was, happy with the day so far.

    Heading back the way we came about 20 minutes, we turn off down a dirt side road that lead to the water. The area was really nice and although having to by a ticket for this single temple seemed unreasonable, I went ahead anyway. Pulling up to the temple, about 7 people, mostly older kids, rush the bike to the point where I can't get off trying to sell there flowers and incense for statues. Now normally this doesn't bother me and after a few stern no's they move on. But this was different, I was followed wherever I went and even some very annoyed no's didn't put them off. I was soon joined by a gang a elderly beggars and I just walked away from the temple towards the out wall. This barely did anything as the kids just followed, and soon after so did the elderly. I did manage to get a brief look at the outer wall, but my pictures couldn't even be had without some of the mad group in them.   

    I wasn't going to be followed into the temple, so I just walked around the outer wall to the other side. In the back by just really walking fast and trying to be left alone eventually it got across. Now it probably seems really wrong, but being out here changes alot of things. Within a few short months you'll be hit up by a few thousand beggars and of coarse you can't help them all, but its more than that. Most won't take food even if you try, they just want money which leaves a bad taste in your mouth. After that happens a few dozen times you just stop listening to the calls, another month goes by and you just start staring straight ahead not allowing yourself to look, and then before you know it not even empathy comes anymore. You become so accustomed to seeing and hearing it every single day from people who are mostly better off then they appear and will right in front of you take the money and use it for anything but food, hurting those who would really need it. So here I am now, at a point where nothing moves me when it comes to begging, I am numb to bit, theres just no empathy left, and what scares me most is that I'm not all that scared about feeling that way. So when it came to these people here surrounding me selling things proving they can buy things that are a complete waste, I was actually really pissed as bad as it sounds. But eventually alone again having made my rounds to the other side I was finally able to get a calm view. The place was not that much bigger than Phnom Chisor, but was really alot more pleasing to the eye. Surrounded by flowers and garden like plants, the place had great atmosphere. Lintels lined the ground, trees all over, the walkway to the inside just looked like something from a garden.

    Approaching the entryway, I come across something that just was odd but really looked nice. Basically something like a railing was made with 2 lintels that had fallen from somewhere and for some reason now flanked the door. One displayed a scene of the churning of milk, which is really always great and the many ways its shown never gets old.

     Entering, I immediately notice that the real garden was on the inside of this small walled complex. Directly ahead was the central tower and sanctuary, and at the four entryways where towers directly in line with the wall, so you could would the entire square wall passing through each tower. Looking from side to side, I can easily tell that this place has the simplest layout of any place I'd been. A perfect interior, the four towers spell each direction and the near perfect walls connect them all. Nothing clutters the center aside from 2 small buildings on each side of the entryway that probably housed divinity statues. The three small pictures below if viewed in order connect and give you a full view of the first sight inside and the entire inside at that.

     Exploring the 2 smaller buildings, I find some of the best examples of lintels I'd seen since the first " My Pet Monster " one at Ek Phnom back in Battambang. They were a nice touch to the inside and didn't clutter it at all. I also noticed the 2 bushes on each side of the door I came in, a realy great touch to the garden feel inside.

     I explored the insides of the walls soon after, finding small altars very much new but something similar most likely was there when the structure was in use during the Khmer's time. I really love finding sections of the wall I can walk in where the ceiling has just enough gone to see the sky and the outside, I just really like the feel of being inside a stone wall and having a view.

    Finally turning my attenion to the interior building, I walk around it on the outside first dreading going inside to face yet more people inside who will smile and just try to hand you something to put on a statue and then expect money, however small. The exterior is gorgeous, with pink flowers of all types along the sides of beautiful carvings of aspara's and much more. Bunches of peach flowers hide in the corners adding to the feel of the entire lonely middle building. The almost perfect center structure with practically 90% of it carved is just something to behold and really made that much greater much the atmosphere of simple flowers.

    Entering the center just passing those inside, Theres really nothing there except for some modern statues, and the lack of space reinforces the fact that these places were not went for lots of people to gather, but simply to house statues and literally the gods themselves. Everyone competing to build a bigger badder house for there god. After not too long inside, I emerge to find 2 of the girls following me again waiting to follow me to the nearby tower across the road. Forgetting the fact that I managed to have the main place to myself, I just get annoyed again.

    So followed but with just two young kids its hard to anything more than be stern, but I'm not going to yell. However during the time here I really wanted to, it would have been so much easier to just scream. I think the ammount of people made it all the worse, since being surrounded makes be have like mini panics, but it is what it is. On the other side of road sat a single tower in the middle of a very large and active monastery on the lake. Very picturesque, but very simple and nothing special. Inside, I finally just took the stupid incents and walked away after admiring the towers features being the lintel and the fact that it was directly in front of a modern temple. On the bike heading back, I gave the 2 a $1 and was on my way.

     I did stop a part of the lake to take a beautiful shot of massive amounts of green floating on the water. A really beautiful last sight before the ride back.

    On the way back however, I was given a nice laugh when I was passed in traffic slightly by a small sawntheaw bus/truck with a baby being rocked in a hammock in the bed of it. How awesome is that. I mean pigs on the back of a bike OK, but driving with a baby in the hammock of a truck and he's sleeping? Amazing!

    Back at the guesthouse, I rested up and then did a massive stint on the internet for the blog as usual lately before kicking back and watching a movie or two while eating in the lobby/restaurant. The atmosphere at this place is top notch, allowing you to sit at anytime during the day and watch a movie in a relaxing large room at a table eating or just having a shake. At night, everyone is here and it has the feel of a movie theatre inside of a small bar. Been my ritual for the past few days here, and am going to miss it after leaving here tomorrow. But have to move on, off to Kompong Cham.

    When my visa is officially extended and I have my passport back in hand not a moment too soon. I probably won't use the full month, actually I know I won't but its the only option they give. I had planned on taking off this morning after having my passport back but woke up this morning feeling uneasy. Not quite sick, but not great either and thinking that it could be the verge of another spell I decided to stick around the capital another day or two where things are easily found. On a lighter note, I think it's time for a beard update. I think I'm at about 2 1/2 inches when I pull it out, still going strong. It gets more powerful everyday... :-P

    Tomorrow I'm going to visit 2 mountains and get some overlooking the countryside done hopefully. Most likely moving on to the east soon after for a few days and spend some time in the mountains at a place called the nature lodge were horses roam freely on the vast fields. High hopes for it anyway, just have to wait and see.

    Slept in lazily and just rolled out late morning to grab something to eat and sit around in the main room watching TV. For the afternoon I walked around trying to find the boardwalk and sit by the water for a while. I managed to go the completely wrong way at first which is kind of annoying in the heat but eventually found my way. The walk is lined completely with flags from practically every country in the world which is really great looking when mixed with the tropical look from the trees. I walked up and down looking for a nice place to sit in the shade but unfortunately there was really none to be had. I spent a bit there but without a place to sit really just started to head back after not too long. I could sit and watch the boats come in for an hour alone in the shade, but the heat here is just too intense for direct sun. Really pretty boardwalk though, and with a little more work could be a real attraction in its own right.

     After heading back and walking the short way back to the guesthouse, I just ate again as I really like the food at this place since they have a full western menu. It's nice to able to just relax but the real reason is certainly a money thing. You can only have so many days of spending before you need a few of doing nothing just to even out the overspending before. Think I'm going to be headed to the mountainous east for a bit for a change of pace and some cheap sights. Getting my passport back tonight, feel so naked without it. It does still make me laugh that there are countries where immigration paperwork can be done by an agent of the books and you don't even need to show up...

     Finally downloaded a new video converter and the video's of the dolphin trip and Angkor balloon ride are up. :-P

    In the morning after just resting up for the night and doing nothing else really besides eat and turn on the news, I make my way down stairs a bit before 7am to get my bus. When I go to pay, he tells shakes his head like he's telling me I don't have to. Walking away it dawns on me that with the language barrier he was unable to figure out whether I was buying a bus ticket or just asking about bus times. So all I did last night was pay for my room early, over paid actually, but whatever I had to get make sure I got on the bus. The 7am departure turned into 8am anyway so rushing was pointless but I got to sit and people watch as the station is in the center of the small town. I had all intenions of heading to Kompong Chhnang, a stop halfway to Phnom Penh, but knew I had the option to go all the way to Phnom penh if I wanted. 

    Really hungry but with little options I grabbed bread and sticky rice to hold me over. The ride was interesting as I had a teenage cambodian girl next to me curled up in her seat nad helf on mine just not caring at all whether she was everywhere as long as she was comortable. I was half asleep until it was time to drop people off and I'd get out and stretch anyway so it didn't matter but was quite amusing. Maybe 4 hours into a ride I knew was roughly 5 to Phnom Penh I realized that the last town we passed was my stop and I was definately going to the capital. This was OK however since I had a feeling due to being tired I would miss it, and in that case was going to extend my visa and relax a few days in Phom Penh. I went to Okay Guesthouse again where I was remembered and got a cheap room for the next 3 nights. Even better they do visa runs for you to the immigration office so I don't even have to do it on my own which was great. Going to stay in Cambodia until I feel I'm ready to go. In no real rush to get to Vietnam and Malaysia is raining until March. Plus I've really grown to love cambodia,  even minus my temple addiction I'd stay here longer. Planning a possible week in the mountains in the east, cambodia's last frontier and there version of the wild west....

     Spending tomorrow ( 26th ) resting up and getting some supplies from the market. Also doing this lovely blog and catching up on things.....

     Left for Sisophon early in the morning bidding goodbye to battambang and my good old driver. I decided to go on another adventure to the north and explore a little traveled temple set in the northwest based around Banteay Chhmar. Only de-mined in 2007, only Preah Vihear is as newly opened to visitors. The bus ride short by my standards now, only about 2 hours getting me in a little past 10am. I barely made it to Sisophon because no one tells you when your stop is and if I didn't get up and ask I wouldn't have made it. Getting off, its a small place with no real travelers scene. I start walking planning on doing the temple the next morning and look for a room. I get a bit away before a few approach selling there pitch for the temple. The only english speaking guy is the one with the toyota camry, the most pricy option. I get into negotiations and after knocking almost $15 off for really decent reasons, like the weather was cloudy and it was 10am so if I waited until morning I could get 3 more hours for the same rate. It took a bit but eventually it went over and we were off. To be honest I was happy to have an english speaking driver and A/c rather than another longer dusty moto ride. It ended up only taking a bit over an hour to get there since the car was easier, which was great. The road was still rough as hell but we got there in realitive comfort and it went by fast being able to chat. Before going in, we eat at a roadside place across the way to quell my stomache.

     Just arriving I could tell by the moat that this place was gigantic. The outer wall surrounded by an even bigger moat seemed to me to rival Angkor itself in size, although probably more like Angkor Thom. Either way, what I was going into was hugh. The first thing you notice coming in are the gods and demons from the churning of milk, only a few remain. The backround behind them was stunning, and since the weather had somehow went from dark clouds to sunshine and blue skies pictures where easy. Down the long dirt path passing small buildings just sitting in open fields looking lonely, I eventually get to whats left of the entrance. A buddha sits under a nice white canopy to the left obviously modern with a few people taking wedding photo's in front.

     The entrance is massive although serious crumbling, with vast areas of stone to either side ready for restoration. The bars still are on some windows, asparas still line some walls, and really everything out front gives me the feel of a rather massive set of rubble not unlike what I've seen many other places. I get up for a closer look to realize that my expectations are may need to be re-thought since the entire outer wall was a giant gallery relief just like the bayon. Massive carvings lined the entore walls that remained standing, and this wall could have easily been a half mile long maybe longer and technically an inner wall. I walked the ront before entering taking in the front, the sides would have to wait for a walkaround later.

     Entering through a crumbling doorway, I duck under to reveal what immediately feels like Beng Melea on a much more massive scale. Green over grows stone everywhere. Piles of stone lay at the feet of anything from columns to giant entryways, making anything a challenge to get to. I look around to see lakes of water, buildings turned to rubble, the sheer volume of space is too much to take in. I pass beautiful pieces of stone on the ground covered in grass, pillars covered in detail... I look around over in the distance to see wall after wall, perhaps 4 full enclosures along with the outer wall and moat. I start to get really excited here and move to the side and debate going along the outer wall to get a real feel of the size but change my mind and head into the center.

     Following a sort of straight path jumping from stone to stone, I come across a large doorway with an amazing carving with a four headed figure that couldn't have had a clearing of more than 3ft. I was obvious that the rest was buried underneath, a real tell of just how much lay hidden. A small wooden bridge goes underneath to assist, the only man made structure here to help me along. I duck under and find that the remains of some amazing buildings where the entire top layer of stone above the windows are carved with beautiful aspara's. This place was starting to show me some of the most amazing detail and interesting carving I had seen yet. Soon after getting through I could see in the distance a most amazing site. I could barely make out what I was certain was a wall of monster like carvings, a full body of what I had come to call " My Pet Monster " from the lintels. I couldn't get across due to a literal field of stone but I made it a promise that I would get there eventually.

    Looking straight ahead, for the first time I could make out the center, a mass of towers jetting out from the rubble. A face could be made out in the distance telling me I had come to a mini-bayon, another of Jayavarman VII masterpieces and a marvel to my eye. It all made sense now though, the interesting buddhist carving that seemed like nothing else I'd seen. My eye was fixed now with a clear goal. I wanted to get into those towers, get close to my mini-bayon and really dive into this place. The only problem was the stone field in my way, every step a virtual disaster as the stones shift and every step gets you closer to your goal and to harm. It didn't take long for just one such slip to happen, which really could have been ugly if it were not for one key placed hand stopping the head from hitting anything. My foot was lodged in between stones and after wiggling it out and seeing only scratches, I kept going. To get my bearings, I started to the sides to get to my creatures before once again taking on my new nemesis.

    After getting to side seeing some local children hoping along, the first people I'd seen here, they gave me my path to follow and I did my best although at times had to improvise. Getting there though proved to be beyond wonderful. The side was not very well lit but the statues were exactly as I knew they would. A winged my pet monster beast, probably a version a Vishnu's ride, the garuda. I studied the long base of them with arms raised seeming to look as if they were holding up the once great building that lay above now in ruins. Both sides of this complex was almost perfect in symetry and another one of there lay just to the other side o the center path. Two very long trips over stones fields I did reach the other side to find a much better lit version in all its glory. Fully intact for the most part, I find almost a dozen in great shape lit by yellow light filtered through the trees. One is most stunning, the face in amazing condition and an absolute marvel. I stare at it for a while just amazed at my luck to find this here, and just how different it was from everything else.

     After heading away from my great statues, I head deeper down the center towards the great towers. The adventurous feeling from hoping rock to rock is so amazing. Like a child again, mentally saying OK if I can just get to here... Phew got it! OK now just put this foot here and then here and maybe I can... It was just incredible. Getting closer I slowly start see the forest reveal itself behind me as the sun breaks through the trees. Things start to reveal themselves, the tops of towers reveal lotus flowers, still intact hallway walls buried in stone reveal how it must have looked back then. The giant outer wall, moat, and inner wall after inner wall that could be walked through to any entrance, all leading deeper into the spaces between walls where more buildings could be found culminating at the center.

    Eventually making it to the heart of the massive complex, I can finally clearly see the wonderful faces on the towers. I just dive in, not really sure which one I went to first. It was just a great dash all over, going inside one tower to stare through holes in the rock, climbing up some other piles to get better views, really lost in the moment here for so much of the time a really exact timeline is hard to make but thats really whats so great about my time there.

    I spent alot of time here, going through the middle of walls, checking out all the towers and walls, looking at each lintel and towers as if it were the first that I'd seen. This place was perfect for me, and another place that surprised me and sparked a new hidden place that hadn't been tapped yet. There just seems to be a never ending supply of newer places that can keep my interest alive. I get a real feel of the layout in the center, with multiple towers in the center followed by a gallery wall that could be walked through and had a tower at each of its corners. After vast amounts of time here I see a intact doorway leading out to the left side. I decided now to go check out the sides and see the center from a different view. The outer wall here also had some gallery reliefs but nothing like what awaited just along the back wall. Directly at the end of where I would have came if I marched straight through, at the back, lay the single most interesting piece I'd seen to date. The wall was carved with two giant Avolkitesvara's, buddhist mythology figure depicted with massive amounts of arms. The two remaining had 16 and 32 arms. The larger one was most impressive, surrounded by other figures that just were given almost no value by the massive statue with so many arms...

    After seeing so much of the left side and now looking at the center again from the back I decided to go from the back to the center again in the mass of towers and then work my way to the right side and to the outer wall. I did just that with not much trouble, taking in the maze of walls, vast amounts of green, and at the end a wall with only the supporting columns remaining, the stones that filled the gaps on the ground nearby. I wanted to go out through the center so made my way back in passing a most interesting face tower. While I think all the others are an image of Jayavarman VII himself as god-king, this single face was clearly that if the buddha's, long earlobes and clearly different features. It was really interesting to me as it proves the others are of something other than the buddha, giving in my mind more weight to the other being the case. Just before heading out of the massive center, I see the DANGER sign on the rocks warning of climbing. A little late for me, but I would have done it anyway...

    I make my way out the same way I came, jumping over rocks and having a grand old time at it. I pass some more giant lizards some maybe 10in long, barley out long enough to photo... Except for this guy who kept his head out bravely. Since I was trying to get one the entire time clearly, even if just the head it was a good way to end my time at this place.

    Making my way from Banteay Chhmar to a nearby temple called Ta Prohm, one of about 12 that are around Banteay Chhmar. I laughed a bit a seeing another Ta Prohm since I'd seen a place by the same name in Siem Reap, but I guess theres only so many names. It was situated maybe 2 minutes away tucked behind and rather in the center of a tiny village. Cows walked the temple grounds right along with me belonging to nearby homes. Recalling this place I'm going to go backwords acting as I entered from the opposite side I did because where I did just doesn't lend to being put into words well.

     From the back, the moat of Ta Prohm is clearly visible as is the very nice face tower sitting in the center of the near island. Giant C shaped moats dot each side, and small strips of land at the top and bottom entrances were the only way across. Interestingly, this arrangement let the outer wall actually be outside the moat which was very different. I also found it amazing that a place this small would have so much great work done around it. The entire site is in view in the picture below except for a single building behind it. The amount of care that went into such a small place tells a great deal. 

    Getting closer you can see the tower out of the cover of the trees, revealing the four faces that have come to be the tell tale sign of the work of Jayavarman VII, my hero :-P. Walking around, sitting down on the ledge nearby and watching the sun filter through onto the faces, I really like this small place, it feels like a tower sitting on an island all alone.

    The center of the tower is similar to most, with a view to the sky made from fallen stone at the top. the entryways are near collapse and only wooden beams hold them in place. The opposite side contains a mass of stone once part of an attached building probably making up the entryway. Nothing remains now but ruins, but it doesn't matter what side your on, the main tower looks great from any angle.

    Following the mass of stone that you have to climb over, you reach a small base for a structures entryway which was actually the first thing I saw coming in. You can't see the moat, the tower, nothing but stone and it just didn't make for a good way to present it. So I saw it one you way, anyone reading another, but to be honest its better presented this way :-)

     On my way out back to the very dirty camry after all our riding, we pass a group of cambodians having a grand old time on the steps of a classic countryside stilted home. I'm told through translation that they were inviting me for a drink, and it just would have seemed to rude to brush away all there smiles. Just people from the rural parts trying to interact and be friendly towards the unlikely visitor. So I sat for maybe 10 minutes taking a shot of rice whisky ( If they said it was pure gasoline I would have believed them ) and chatted a bit before making the way to the final stop of the day, Banteay Torp.

     Banteay Torp was maybe 20 minutes drive away, down a road that spit from the one we took getting here. It was my last stop and although there are more here it was a similar case as with Koh Ker. The cost to get out here is high, which really makes it hard to do back to back days. Also the smaller sights are little known and some even uncleared of mines aside from small paths. It's definitely a similar case and if I ever want to see the tiny sites around these far away places it will mean on a second trip to cambodia. Pulling into Banteay Torp, I'm immediately taken away by the sheer size of the tower that sat at the entrance. Possibly the largest that I'd seen, I was eager to get in there on the terrace slightly above the ground to explore. 

     I started exploring to the side where the moat could be seen through just piles of stone. One of the five or six towers here was in this mess, all but completely ruined. It was hard to tell exactly how many there were because of the mass of stone but five is probably more likely. I made my way under entryways hanging by just stone laying on tree, past another tower and into is massive church like archway.

     On the other side, with the setting sun hitting one side of the tower directly I could see a perfect view of the tower that still stood so high. I really think its the tallest I've seen but maybe its just an illusion. Either way, this finger like tower jets straight to the sky soaring in blue with all that remains of it. It was really something, and the feel of this place is really unequaled in a certain way. The towers surrounding the one in center are semi crumbling in all different heights have created an absolute mountain of stone at the base of the center around the center tower. An absolute mountain of stone boulders, allowing you to climb if brave enough to amazing heights on the towers. This is something I have never before been able to do. Through another tower and out the other side to reveal the green growth on tis side following my cambodian driver and his brother as they make it look so easy hoping along, I eventually make it up on a ledge of the tower overlooking the surrounds. Sitting here with wind blowing and just laying back in the center of these massive towers, sun setting in the back, I could really feel an atmosphere here.

    
    I make my way across to the back of the tower I loved so much coming in to find out its actually only half with two sides completely gone revealing the inside. What shocked me is that looking down there was maybe 10ft more of this tower buried, making it actually taller that it appears not the other way around. I sit on a pile of rick near the base made by the stone mountain. The view of the sun was clear from here, and I sat for a bit before we began heading to the last tower with best view of the sun.

    Once again we climb, this time me a bit closer but still miles behind there speed. He jokes that for cambodians its very easy as there on there feet all there lives mostly. I get up, turn around and very carefully sit as there really is nothing stopping me from a god awful plunge to my doom i I slip. Sitting down its clear to see the clouds have swallowed the sun this time around, but the glow thorough is still worth sitting a bit for.

    Making my way back down, I walk slowly trying to get some photo's of these massive towers in the darker light. The main three come in clear view back at the car. A truly great site, and once again have Jayavarman VII to thank, although this time he built over an earlier site taking someones OK site and turning it into a great one.

    Leaving, down the road that lead to the road we came we pass by a very large body of water I'm told may have been the reservoir for the are of temples here. It was gorgeous in this light, but the picture just doesn't seem to do justice.

    On the way back, the night ended on a rather not so great note as the driver had to stop somewhere which led to an angry series of never ending phone calls all the way back and blah blah blah... Some good old cambodian drama. Back in town settled in to my guesthouse for the night I could do nothing but laugh and go eat next door. After eating I rested a bit in the room and then went downstairs to the lobby and pointed to the wall with the poster of bus times and prices and got a ticket to my next stop. Another bus in the AM....

    Staying up on the computer last night I decided to sleep in and didn't get up unti around 10am. I had to meet Bon at 3pm so I went and got breakfast and then spent quite a bit at the internet cafe getting things in order. I still had time even after 2 hours on the PC so I went back to the room for a bit and then decided to eat again around 2pm before heading out. It was really just a morning of trying to keep busy before heading out one last day with the good old Bon. Cheerful as ever when I meet him downstairs we don't waste anytime and got going. It didn't take long before we were back on countryside roads, but these ones were different and much more rocky almost like pure gravel. The ride was bumpy as hell but fun as always chatting away. The ride was quite long and much farther away than I thought but eventually we past a small village where Bon was actually from, hence his knowing about this out of the way temple. Right past the market we pulled into the temple of Prasat Ba Set. The first thing I notice is the crumbling tower out front, the second if that the rest looks like some stuck a bomb in it. Well turns out they did, as this being a temple deep in the countryside it was a prime target for destruction by the Khmer rouge in the late 70's. Many temples suffered this fate, but this is the first that I'd seen. There was one side that appeared to be in OK condition, but on closer inspection you see that its only the fact that its filled with stone thats keeping it upright. Bon takes me to an inscription thats hidden in the rubble that I wouldn't have seen on my own, then leaves me on my own. Not knowing where to start, I wonder to the sides to get an over all view of the size.

    After going over to the column covered grass that lay on each side covering probably 100ft on each side, I can see that whats left doesn't show its once true size. I was drawn back to the center tower and after doing a small circle I go inside. Although nothing remains, the perfect square cut out that is now the top of the tower. Looking up I can see the clear blue sky through the opening and really appreciate. All the light coming in created something so different from the dark towers with only tiny glares coming through.

     During my circle around the central structure or whats left of it, I notice thats there actually some very interesting things here. In the piles sit perfectly preserved stone lintels and columns, five headed naga's lying in leaves that once adorned the corners, and in rare occasions some even still stuck in there original spot. I'm really come to love this early 11th century my pet monster lintel style, and seeing 2 more great examples here was really great. It was at the front however that I really saw something interesting. There were large slabs of stone large enough to be doorway colums covered in flower like designs, something I had never seen before. In the pile stood all types of carving that I hadn't seen, and it was really a shame I couldn't investigate further. This temple might hold real value in finding out something new about the khmer but I don't think even the Aspara authorites have really given these small countryside sights much time, and they probably just don't have the manpower and or money to do so.

     This place really had a great feel to it, although nothing special when you look around and see markets, tropical trees, clear skies and just a real country feel. It also made me realize that Now matter how many places I visit that have made it " Onto the map ", there are hundreds more that don't and remain only locally known. It was nice coming here though knowing that I was one of a very small number of foreigners every to come here. I was he only one here when I came, and the people were quite shocked to see me. So thanks to Bon I had a nice little elite visit that I really enjoyed.

    I had every intention of heading out, but then got really bold and decided to go inside the mess of falling stone and see for myself what it was like. Inside, I was stunned, excited, and yet a bit nervous at the same time. The wall of th remaining buildings was literally resting half fallen against another wall with stones above my head weighing tons just barely resting on each other enough to stay up. I reall wanted to get some good pictures but I kept looking up at the giant stones above. It made my 2 minutes inside feel like 30. Fun and exciting though I probably wouldn't trust a long term stay. on right push and thats coming down.

    Back on the bike, I'm told theres a well next door so take a short drive to the other side of the temple ruins to find a giant reservoir that once held water for the temple complex or city if it had one. It was of decent size and the green swamp like water inside gave a vague impression of its once great look. The line of trees behind it really gave it a nice background, although it really just helped me get a more complete image of the place.

    After a few minutes we were back on the move, assuming we were going back but then he asked me whether I wanted to see some rice fields which didn't sound like a roller coaster but hell its something extra to do. A winding dirt road and a few minutes later was come upon vast fields of tan and green. It was actually really beautiful and staring down the fresh green field I really felt peaceful with the breeze. Bon tells me that the more wealthy farmers, relative of coarse, can get the crop to grow 3 times a year instead of 2 since they can irrigate the crops. That was why I was looking at only one fresh plot and the rest nothing growing until next season. My facorite thing was the many scarecrows in the fields of green poking up every now and then. Swaying in the wind, they just had a way of making you smile. As we were leaving Bon actually ran into a cousin on a giant tractor like wagon carrying loads of rice. He asks if I want to ride up top on the rice, but I decline really as it was getting late and wanted to start the ride back. We ended up stopping at the cousins though were I went out back to find more bats in the trees. These ones were almost pets, kept up there so the villagers could use the droppings as fertilizer, some of the best so they tell me. I'm still buzzing from the bats yesterday! How amazing was that?

     All in all a laid back day till the end and a nice way to end my time here. Going to miss have Bon around, as he's easily the best guy I've had as a driver. He actually gave me his email and I might contact him sometime if I'm ever back. For now its the long ride back and then dinner. Think I'm going on a tiny back track to Sisophon 2 hours north near the Thai border for another big motorbike excursion and perhaps a hope into Thailand for a new cambodian visa coming back. Think I'm going to stay here a bit longer, just not sure whether its easier to extend in Phnom Penh or border hop... Well see.

    I had arranged to meet bon, my all too fun moto driver around 9am and got up a bit before to grab something from a nearby bakery. We were off a bit before 9am with a saying of coarse although not sure which one this time. I knew today would be long and prepared my self for a good ride. But after just a few minutes we pulled over in the countryside by a local morning market and ate a real breakfast which he pretty much insisted I have. It was some crazy yellow pancake looking thing filled with what seemed like potato. Anyhow it was actually good, but waiting it with hands only was awkward. It was good to eat though, and finishing up we were back on the road. We passed alot of fields and villages along the way before being able to see my first stop in the distance. A giant mountain with a gold tower sticking out at the top. A modern temple inhabits the top, but I was going there for the views. We pulled over so I could take a picture of the mountain.

    While there facing the other way I noticed some really great newly planted rice fields that just glowed green. Bon took a picture for me before we got back on the bike and headed toward the mountain. Within ten minutes we were there I think, pulling down a dirt road leading to some small restaurants and a ticket booth. We sat and grabbed a drink for a minute resting before the climb. A child offered to guide me, but Bon was coming up so there was no need. On the walk to the base, he tells me that theres almost 900 steps to the top of Phnom Sampeau which makes me laugh inside but dread it also. As we started up, I found out it wasn't actually the stairs we were going up but a road that carved along the outside. We could have drove, but somehow he got the idea I wanted to walk up it lol. Anyway maybe 1/3 of the way up we got our first good views, one of them being a great view of " Lonely mountain ", a name given by the locals since its in the middle of a plain of flat land.

    We came to a fork about half way there, and we turned left as he wanted to show something. We went to a small part of the temple here and inside the main building. He then proceeds to tell me about all the people killed here during the pol pot years, and really goes on about every detail. It was strange seeing him transform from the happy go lucky guy, even opening up enough to tell his never met father was also a victim - the crime was being a soldier before the revolution. We then went down deep in a cave that housed to my surprise another hall of skulls and bones in a case guarded by a solitary nun sitting nearby. The khmer rouge used this place as a killing field just throwing bodies into the cave from an opening above. I really had no idea that this was part of this mountain, so all the more shocked when it was upon me. After leaving, we headed up a bit to a ledge were he told me a funny story about the mountains creation myth involving chickens, ducks, crocodiles and a lady with never ending hair. It was crazy to see the mood go from down to up so fast, but I've seen thats that is how they deal here. He turns back down to the bottom after this saying its too much for him, and I'm directed to the top. It was only minutes away past a few monkeys before I came upon the top, but the views were just getting started.

    Making my way through the sets of pathways that went through the glorious buildings to different cliff edges for various views, I stopped on the far side to turn and get some real shining photo's of the tower here. This temple really went all out to get a gold tower of this magnitude all the way up here, but it was spectacular. Completely carved with detail, it looks as if it were its own mountain of gold floating up to the sky above. Equally great is a wonderfully colored temple building that just fit perfectly next to it. Even the trees got in on the action, providing the final touch with a great tropical feel.

     After the gold sunk in, I my way to the edge straight ahead from the way I came up and then to the right, finding some fabulous mountains and green plains to look at. The view from here was really worth the trip, and definitely something that I'd missed doing. So glad today's weather cooperated, as this is clouds wouldn't have been anything close.

    I only saw this while walking, but it just stood out and I have no idea what it is. Just s funny stone lying against a wall that just said photo me dammit.

    I walked around a bit checking out various sides for different views until the sun got the better of me and I  started my way down. Bon had told me to take the stairs down as its faster, so I thought I did just that. I went down a giant set of stairs leading into the depths of the rock. The view was great seeing rock on both sides and large hindu statues in a buddhist temple. There was almost a mini forest down here in the crevice of the mountain, and although great obviously the wrong way. There was other stairs after I made the long climb back up, but not wanting to waste time trying them all I just started back the way I knew. Along the way I checked out all the tropical trees lining the cement road that I winded down until the bottom.

    Back at the bottom I made my way over to the place we were sitting and drank some water before heading off. I was so tired, seeing him resting in a hammock waiting made me jealous but I'm never getting in a hammock again unless it uses metal chains. We started driving to a nearby mountain for the next stop, Ek Phnom, an 11th century Khmer temple sitting atop the mountain. I'm told that theres only 386 steps here :-P We once again parked near a food stall and soon after I began my climb. Someone tried getting me to go into the caves at the base, but I had had enough of caves from this trip. Looking at the lion flanked base and its giant stairway going straight up I found myself stalling and went over to a tiny tower in ruins near the stairs before telling myself it was time to climb.

    I really wanted to get a photo of the steps right but with people on them that isn't easy so I patiently waited till a moment when everyone was out of the way and took some. On my way up, a lady walking up along side laughed at me and said I was going to fast and to take it easy. Probably good advice, but these long legs can only go so slow. Panting about half way up I get a view of a tower creeping into view over the steps which gives me what I need to get to the top.

    At the top, I sat down next to a couple who seemed local just visiting for the day and enjoyed the view looking back at the steps I'd climbed. We chatted with the little we could for a bit  before being joined by a man for California who'd told me about the caves earlier. I guess he wanted a second look up here. I really loved of the flags put up here swayed in the wind with a view of the surrounds all around it. I stayed here for a bit watching before everyone parted and I went inside the complex.

    Inside, the five towers come into clear with under the shining sun. Following the usual center tower inside four others, they were all in various condition and had unique things about them. I did a walk around I think 3 times trying to get good shots of the four outer towers before doing anything else. I really wanted to get them right, as the sky for once was perfect for pictures up here with patchy clouds and blue sky. Eventually I made another round this time going inside each of the outer four. going around here was very easy as the mountain top was no larger than a few houses next to each other. Up here the towers were really great as weather and light added to there allure for this moment and I was enjoying it. Inside them was usually rather simple and dark, however inside the first one you enter coming up the ceiling is about to cave in it looks like and someone I'm afraid is going to be quite unlucky. Eventually I made my way to the center tower although the inside was completely filled with a small shrine with a buddha image. The outside was great though with the best carvings that went all the way to the top. Here I also ran into Connie again, the same girl from the restaurant the night before which was funny. I was just about to head down but stayed and chatted a few minutes before doing so. This was 3 times running into each other in 2 different cities, in as many days...

     Getting to the bottom fast as going down is always easier, I have lunch and a drink before heading to what I assumed was my final stop and most anticipated, the bamboo train. The ride was down dirt roads and countryside again, and cutting through temples to get to the othersides road was common. This time however, we stopped and Bon pointed out something in the tree's. It's a bird, it's a plane. it's... Hundred's a bats!? I stared as the fruit bats hung on to the tree, and if that wasn't enough I then hears bon say " I'm going to make them fly ". This was broad daylight and so strange for me, but with clappin and branch shaking it all went to hell and they were flying everywhere. I had my camera facing up in amazement capturing them as they floated past the clouds creating real life silouetted bat signals that would make batman proud. It was incredible! I was loving it and I even went to second tree to get more. After that thinking I'd had enough, A tuk tuk pulls in with someone else, and who was it but bonnie lol. I guess our drivers follow the same route and know the same little things to show people. I stayed and watched her show which ended up being far grander, with 50+ hitting the air through the clouds creating some of the most amazing shots so far....

    Exchanging emails with connie after 4 meetings just seemed fair as I'd done with many others along the way, and proceeded to the last leg of my trip. It was a decent trip of  maybe 30 minutes on back roads, but when we arrived I knew immediately this was going to be fantastic. We sat down and grabbed something to drink at the stalls and waited for our "trains" to be ready. I could see the small twin bed looking wooden trains being set up on the rails for us. We loaded on the motorbike and I sat down passing the camera for photo's. When we started moving as the engine turn the pulley linked to the actual train axle, I got chills of excitement. The train was off, with me on it in the open air...

    Becoming just fixed on the trip, I looked ahead seated and just felt the wind brush by as we picked up speeds not that much slower than an actual train. The rails were so old they were separated at parts creating a hell of a bump each time, adding to the adventure. At one point I stood for a while holding onto the bike to look over the sides, another I turned away from the speeding ground in front to have a picture taken at full speed ahead. It was actually incredibly relaxing, even closing my eyes for a bit and just enjoying the sounds and the wind.

    One thing that really had me amazed was when to my surprise I look up to see another train coming our way on the same track, there being only the one. Everyone slows down and to my delight the lighter car has to take themselves apart. Sicne we had the bike, I got to watch as the engine was taken off, then the top, and then the axle's just lifted off the track all within 60 seconds. We kept moving soon after through nice tree's and countryside until we eventually hit our stop about 20 minutes later. Since we put the motorbike on, most of our return journey was done by the train. It was truly a fun and once in a lifetime experience. Made even more memorable knowing that in just 2 years, Cambodia will have it's first major train line complete that will take over and dismantle this track. In just that short time, many livelihoods will be in trouble as well as a great past time lost. I'm truly glad I got to do it now and hope the people here don't wait until the last second to look for new work and leave themselves in deep trouble.

    We took the bike off and got, speeding over the tracks and back onto the road. Today was a fantastic day, but the past two days were made ten times better by my great driver and buddy Bon. He tells me on the way back that there's one more place he can take me if I stay another day here, and although I was planning on leaving I agree and wait for what he has in store tomorrow...

   
     Leaving Siem Reap early I get up with my things already packed and head upstairs to check out. The tuk tuks didn't take long to sniff me out seeing my bag as always and was off toward the bus station. He tried taking me to a tour place to buy the ticket but I knew better and got myself to the bus station were a local bus was leaving with the hour. The journey to battambang I knew to be roughly 4 hours, so I grabbed some bread and water for the trip to hold me over. Once we got going, I really don't remember anything other than waking up every half hour or so as I literally slept the thing away solid which I am never able to do. Once In battambang I was spotted by a driver who immediately caught my attention. Cheerful waiving a sign or his guesthouse with a t-shirt of a baby with piercings and an Obama shirt on, I had to go with him. It was a great choice because he spoke perfect English and was an absolute riot! Everything he says is from a movie. He greets you with sayings from movies and knows more pop culture than I do. His first words to me where " How's it hanging dude " lol. Then some other saying, which he said he got rom watching Back to the Future. When we got to the place he told me about the sights and the costs to do them with him and they were cheap and I had to go with this guy. So it was settled, the temple of Ek Phnom this afternoon and some countryside villages, then the mountains and the bamboo train tomorrow.

    Getting settled in and having a few hours to spare until the 3pm meet with my new driver friend, I unpacked and went to get lunch. This proved hard as there is literally no food places here set up for foreigners and I ended up at a Chinese place that thankfully had a menu. I ate there, then went across to the bank to pull some james bond stuff. Well really I had to try and sneak a torn $50 into there and change money. US dollars are as good if not better than local riel, but I was going to try and change 5 $50's and hope my ripped one got by. To my surprise it did, and I saved losing alot of money. Back at the room I rested a bit before meeting my all too cheerful friend on his bike, and his parting words were " Lets blow this joint ". It didn't take long to reach the temple, maybe 20 minutes, joking and passing really nice countryside along the way. Entering, I would say the first thing I really noticed was the temple, but here it was the lizards! They were everywhere crawling under the inches of leaves that littered the floor. Iguana's, red lizards, green lizards etc.... ( someone at home show this to Justin.)

    After following lizards halfway around the entire wall, I eventually got myself back on track and started my way around the temple. It was simple and small, with a basic outer wall and a large T shaped building with towers in the ends. The central tower was rather large but I focused on the outside first and made my way around the wall, poking my head in here and there still really looking for lizards. I even exited on one side to get a view of the wall from outside at one point before going back in. The main building was rather nice looking though, and so before long I was making my way inside.

      While going up the crumbling steps of the side I came in on, I could see the modern temple that we passed coming in, putting new against old. The site here had buddhist flags everywhere showing the temples presence nearby.

     Inside was a bit chaotic and small due to fallen stones, but its here that I came across my favorite lintel of all time. In near perfect condition if not restored, this piece just screams at me. The guy in the center reminded me of a movie I hadn't seen since just past diapers, but it all came back as " My Pet Monster " flashed before me. Flanked by flags on each side, the doorways top is by far its greatest. Getting closer, the center looks like the cat from Alice in Wonderland only very angry.

    I spent time inside, but before long there really wasn't much left inside as the space was small but I was surely impressed with the detail I found here. Outside, I circle again trying to find things I'd missed when I come upon a red flower that is so at odds with the grey and brown color scheme here that it had to be given attention. I took a reel of photo's, this one being best I think.

     Before heading out, I did a circle around again being so easy given its small size, and this time decided to duck in and go inside the remaining wall. It was interesting looking over the stone from inside, but its only so interesting I was soon moving on. I wanted to visit that temple that had caught my eye so thats were I headed on my way out.

     I went over to the driver and told him were I'd be and he said he'd meet me over there and then started the short walk over. The new temple was actually stunning, with painted decor on almost every inch of its walls and ceilings. All depicting various myths, they paint a pretty picture. I walked around head facing straight up a bit, trying to take some of it in although the story wasn't a concern as much as the art was. Combined with pillars, it really made for a great place to appreciate and reflect the paintings. The one that really caught my eye is of a heaven and the buddha getting greeted by a sort of angel monk and celestial dancers. Its really a well done piece.

     Directly across was teh temples giant buddha image, although again different enough to be completely refreshing. Giant and all white, it stood out against the second day of rains dark clouds. The picture this created was stunning, a dark contrast of gray and white through the trees. What really made it though was its white stone monks on each side that when looked at from the front is breathtaking. I really liked it and stayed here until the moto pulled up signaling it was time to go. We left with the phrase " Lets make like a banana and split ".

    After leaving I thought it was done for the day, but he wanted to show me everything we passed along the way. If we passed fruit he told me what kind, how they make it, about the people etc... So when we got to a place that makes cheese out of fish and stopped, I knew I was in for a rather smelly treat. Now just hearing cheese from fish is hard to take, but seeing it fermenting into it is another. The whole process was happening before me as heads were chopped of by people who he laughingly called " the killers " and others were filling buckets with dried fish from the racks. I believe towards the end I saw close to a bucket filled with the fish paste, but I wasn't sure. Quite interesting though, and back at the bike he bought a small bit and gave me one to try. It looks like a string cheese stick of provolone but pink, and actually wasn't bad although not good either. Can' believe I had it though.

    Leaving here, he starts with " Let's hit the road jack ", and for whatever reason I actually was feeling free spirited on the bike flying along and sung the next line, and so for the next minute we were just chanting tunes. Our last stop was on a country road to a village that made sticky rice in bamboo sticks by slow cook the rice in bamboo with beans inside. We bought a whole stick and took handfuls on rice and stuffed our faced for 2000 riel. Good way to end the day, now time to get inside before the rain. Sure enough not later being in my room 10 minutes it was pouring, and even the locals were dumbfounded by it. Later after it stopped I went looking for a place to have dinner and came upon a place called White Rose packed with 50+ people, locals and foreigners alike. Should have kept looking because it was like an hours wait and the whole scene here was like nothing else in asia but it shows how little there is to chose from here for food. I ended up being joined by a Chinese girl who actually lives in Boston that I'd met back in Siem Reap and just stumbled upon again here. Her food somehow came pretty much right after mine and ate together and talked for maybe an hour before taking off. The streets here are pitch black with no lights and it does have an unsafe feel so I went with her to her hotel before heading to my room. On the way back I kinda wanted someone to walk me home lol. Tomorrow a full day of adventure, gotta rest for the hiking....