After spending most of yesterday on the computer in the afternoon I worked out to have a driver meet me in the morning for a trip to Koh Ker and Beng Melea, but not without some funny confusion. It's actually said like its spelled Koh Kay so the first driver thought I wanted cocaine :-P. After finding someone who knew the area and was willing to make the 3 hour ride there bright and early and then back later, there was really nothing left to do but wait. I knew I'd have a jam packed day, with two separate 3 hour treks and about 5 hours of sightseeing it was going to be hard. But ever since Preah Vihear and hearing my friend talking about going to this rural temple complex with no paved roads that no one goes to.... I just had to go. As for Beng Mealea, I had heard good things and it was on the way.

    Up before the sun to meet th the 7am ride, I was tired by excited and ready for action. Heading to the driver the morning was starting of a little interesting since the driver tried to renegotiate the fare thinking he already had me there. Upon me starting to walk away it all dropped rather quickly though, and we were off. The weather wasn't great, very cloudy and rather damp which was so odd but what can you do. It did make the ride a little dreary though. After an hour or so of paved roads we pulled off for gas, and after filling up we turned off the main road for the start of the real journey. All dirt and rock from here, things are really rough and my bottom takes the beating off its life starting now. Some dirt roads, some rock roads, some wet slippery roads where the back tire almost loses its grip and slides out, some under construction roads, even some drive wherever because there is no road roads.... I had one stop to get up and stretch as I bought my ticket which because of the roads or lack off was bought at a booth still hours away. I treasured this though because until we arrived almost 2 hours later there wouldn't be another. Passing controlled burning of land for miles, cows crossing whenever they please, animals everywhere running across making you slam on the brakes, it seems as if the ride just can't throw enough curve balls.

     The only time I was really nervous was when the back tire swayed left to right through the wet ground, the bike being held up only by the drivers feet hitting the ground. The ride you get used to, but your body doesn't like pressure on one area for too long and theres not much room to move on the small seat so my butt was killing me and my back ached. It takes a long time and patience but eventually we arrived in Koh ker. It had better be worth it, since I had that same ride back later on. But just getting here was part of the adventure and always is. I mean this local map of the area around Siem Reap doesn't even show a road to Koh Ker at all from Beng Melea!

     Koh ker is much older than the Angkor monuments, predating them by over 200 years. This was the capital of the empire for barely 20 years until the king who moved there died and his succesor moved it back. There are over 100 temples here, and even though most are just piles of stone or single ruined towers there are over 30+ sites worth seeing for the visitor. I knew that I couldn't see near that many today and since you can't stay here and being 3 hours away, it wasn't going to happen this trip. Coming from Angkor where everything is either sign posted or the driver knows, here theres no way of knowing just what monument your at. Dirt roads carve there way through the forest down tiny roads leading to the temples. No one is here, and with the monuments restored by nature left alone, I was hoping for a different experience. It didn't help me at the time, but in the evening after coming back I came across a wonderful map of the area which you can use to follow the trail. It also gives me a rough idea of the names of some of the places I'd been. It also lead me to maps of all the other areas! Oh well, better late than never so I edited the posts and added the maps.

     Going down dirt roads that looked the same as the last hour, I didn't even know were in Koh Ker until the driver started looking around as we passed roads and soon after stopped along the side of the dirt road in front of my first temple. Judging from the map I can after the fact say that it was Prasat Chhin or Prasat Pram and the driver passed quite a few places along the way. If I had even the remote chance of seeing them all maybe it would have upset me, but I knew time was limited even while I was there and that he would take me to the largest and most common places. Entering over a small wooden fence I walk past many people working sweeping away leaves along the path to the temple before hitting the outer wall. Leaves and vegetation are everywhere and I climb my way over a hill o leaves and stones before seeing the 3 main towers and some smaller red brick ones that sit in front. Slightly overgrown and surrounded by mountains of leaves, they had a really nice feel to them. It was easy to tell that these where older, much older, and used a larger block to build rather than smaller more eye pleasing brick. Detail is minimal aside from 2 pillars lining a doorway and a lintel over another. What I found most unique was the act the inside could be seen from the outside on all the towers with two having there front wall collapsed and one the left collapsed. This was obvious by the mass of stone piled at there bases.

    I did my rounds, circling the towers and getting a feel of the backs and trying to find detailed pieces in the rubble. When I decided to look up, I noticed for the first and last time for the day a break although very small in the cloud cover. It was really nice, but short lived and back to nothing but clouds shortly after. Heading out and back to the bike I had a good feel about the day and was really up for a real go at it here.

    A short ride up the road, passing a small single tower and a reservoir in the trees, we stop to what appears to me to be another walled temple of no real importance. I pass some food and drink stalls, but not nearly like Angkor and assume theres not many here because its a small place. I approach past a small wall and then to a building reminding me of the Khleangs in Angkor Thom, but a single one. The building is the first in a corridor like line of small buildings leading toward a tower that you must jump through rock piles to get too. Once closer, you can see the tower itself is in line with even more behind it still being part of what seemed like a pathway. I walked up to it and inspected it and to my surprise saw some nice carvings and lush green grass just on the other side. You couldn't go through the tower so I went around to be much delighted by what lay there.

    Once through I come across a long collapsed row of pillars once lining the path here to the arch ahead. Along the way is a huge head of a cow in really great condition surrounded by rubble, a clear sign that this was a hindu temple like most of the Khmer's. Further along and through another doorway I pass a rather large section of red brick towers much in ruin with tiny doors. They all appeared to me to small houses for the gods, a form of putting each gods statue in a small tower to live and be worshiped there. I had heard it practiced in even angkor, but there small doored towers gave clear evidence of it  to my own eyes.

     Just past those towers and well into the tree's down this never ending path of stone, through one final doorway, it hits me hard and fast. I could see what I knew to be a tower unlike any other. It didn't belong here yet there it was, to large for anything else here, yet again there it was. Sitting within eye shot now was a 7 tier pyramid tower that could I think stand up against any other, be it peru or Angkor. A solid line of stairs runs up the front to the top, giving you the sense of its height. I stare in wonder at it before breaking my self imposed spell and getting closer. All around inside this inner wall was a field of green, showing just how much space was around this mountain of stone. It was nothing I'd ever seen before, and now all the thoughts of the Mayans came back. This thing was 100% akin to temples from the same period of time yet an another side of the world 10k miles away. Incredible.

    Not long after entering, I circled the massive tower and really was shocked at its size and build but surprisingly more so by its lack of access in all four directions. There was only the one set of stairs, and now way inside. This just was at odds with everything the other Khmer kings built. It didn't honor the cardinal directions, you couldn't get inside, and there was no tower at the top. It was by all means a pyramid. After my rounds I went back to the front to find to my surprise the only other person I'd seen here having been alone was a Aspara worker making sure I didn't try to climb. This was devastating, but upon looking at the steps it was clearly a safety thing. The makeshift wooden steps had fallen apart and no longer usable at all. It was a downer, but nothing could ruin the moment here. Birds chirping away, I had this temple to my own and just stood and watched as he walked away and I had me and the mountain temple. Eventually leaving, I looked back one more time on the way out before rock hoping my way out. Back on the road I looked at two small buildings across the road which seemed to me to be clearly part of some ruined pathway to the glorious temple I now know as Prasat Thom...

    A short ride down the long dirt roads I came upon a series a small square stone buildings that were rather amusing to me. I stepped off the bike to get a closer look and walked across the dirt road. This road, to give you an idea , is actually probably the best I got on the whole ride after leaving Siem Reap.

    Closer now to made me laugh even seeing it from the roadside was a giant linga, massively wide in the the center of the first tower. It said atop a yoni with a place for water to drain. which is pure hindu symbolism similar to that seen at Kbal Spean. walking around inside I loved the detail at the hard to see base, but putting my head down there made me feel like a snake was going to pop out at me. I moved around the outside then on to the nearby next two which although being similar where in different stages of ruin. One was covered by nature, very appealing to the eye but the linga inside mostly destroyed. Yet another a combo of both, with semi covered outside and a great stone pillar inside. The driver approaching with me at one of them and pointed saying " that like me lol ". I knew a penis joke was coming, but it still sounded bad. There was a fourth but passing it on the roadside he kept driving, an to be honest 3 was already to many and was satisfied seeing it from the road. On the map its the linga shrine and the 3 squares north of that.

    The next five places are really a mystery to me as to there exact location but I believe them to be the four walled places after the linga shrine as well as one the squares in between. First up was a small place just off the road with roots covering most of what was left, and some of the trees really going to town on the stone.

    The buildings were simple however and I didn't stay to long and get to into the small rooted stone and kept moving.

    Next stop down the road that was going thicker into tree's and road getting smaller was a decently large walled place with little to offer on the inside. An outer wall and inner wall once protected whatever was here though and probably once a great temple. I pass a large stone pillar with writing all over it which was interesting and probably how they were able to learn what they have about this period. It takes alot for one man, even a king, to move a capital and build all this in just 20 years. Not only that though, after the capital was moved back most of these were probably o longer used or diminished after such short use.

    The center holds a single brick tower or whats left of it, and soon after start to head back. The outer walls are interesting simply because trees are growing out of them everywhere and taking the wall with them. They give a really great sight for the camera and the eye. Passing the last one of these outside on my way out to the moto, I really like how it goes from the wall all the way over the road in its semi collapsed state.

    Down the road was a quick stop at a crumbling set of two small buildings side by side, and upon getting to the back just say some interesting shaped stones. Not wanting to waste time I moved on rather fast.

    On the way to my next stop that I didn't know but the driver did, I could see evidence of rain clouds but gave it no real concern. A few minutes ride we pulled of and by now the routine of me hoping off and him going to rest in the shade was down to an art. Making my way past familiar walls and the like, I made my way ti the center which held 2 small brick towers in front of a much larger stone tower. It was an add formation but then again everything in Koh Ker fit its own pattern. The brick towers had something about them due to the grass growing inside. Where it popped out really shined and it just really fir perfectly. It was really clear that something in the way these type of towers here were made caused them to collapse over time the same way. One side would completely sheer off, the roof along with it. It's probably due to using heavy large stone blocks at the top creating to much pressure over time. All the same, these older towers are great to compare for me and I enjoy them.

    time was getting short and I knew this next place would be the final stop here, and if it wasn't I was going to make it the last since I wasn't going to miss Beng Melea. So getting off in Koh Ker one last time, I approach the walled temple. Here the rain starts a bit, although light still shocking as hell for me because rain just doesn't happen here in the middle of the winter. No matter, I covered my camera and took the few photo's I could here and although not rushing and getting a little wet I moved a little faster. The three large towers here had the same feel and the same front side collapsed as the others which really just gets me to think its all from the same cause. I do my circle and go inside each one, looking to the sky as little rain drops hit. Making my way back to the bike after my rounds it stops and moves back to just the same old clouds.....

     Leaving on the bike, I just said Beng Melea and the driver seemed to be heading there anyway but nodded in understanding. We passed a small tower here and there road side but I knew I'd have to come back another time far from now to see them all here. So onto Beng Melea it was, over an hour and a half back towards siem reap.

    Taking the rough drive back on the same roads was hard as expected but having done it once it can only be so bad. Just about back to where we bought the ticket was where we pulled off and to my surprise Beng Melea was only a few minutes past it. We pulled off to the side of the road where a few food stalls were and proceeded across to the long dirt entryway leading to Beng Melea. The path was extremely long and flanked by stone railings and lions all the way. I could see in the distance the mass of fallen stone that lay at the entrance far ahead. Passing some funny sights like one Asian tourist trying to give candy to one child then had a literal child army come out of nowhere and surround her, about half way down it took off early. To my sides were great views of the once moat, followed by some fallen stone and amazing tropical trees than can brighten up anything.

     The most detailed naga I've ever seen and possibly the best piece ever found on just an entryway came soon after on my left. I stepped back catching the ones on both sides, but really just wanted to get close and capture that detail. Decorated top to bottom so greatly just seeing the picture still amazes me. Walking up the remaining pathway, I find more naga's of equal detail but greater decay lying on the ground by the main steps.

    Realizing upon getting close that the massive pile of stone blocked all entry, I followed the outer wall right and passed through vast tree cover before finding steps leading into the temple over the wall.

     Inside the first section between walls, I notice immediately a building to my right covered in vines and straight ahead a long hall going into the space between the walls equally overgrown. Stunned and not really knowing where to go, an aspara guide looked at me and signaled to follow him. They work on a pay as you see fit deal, so I pay at the end what I think he deserved basically which worked for me. He takes me along the narrow ledge of a building and then through a collapsed doorway. Piles of stone lay everywhere covered in nature. Ducking under collapsed buildings, pulling myself up mountains of rubble, it doesn't take me long to love it here. Beng Melea is the only thing I hadn't seen yet, a fully untouched ruin left exactly how it was found giving you the feeling of a French explorer coming across it for the first time. Passing buildings filled with tarzan like vines and stone, tripping over boulders, seeing nature engulf everything, this place is unreal.

    This temple complex, consisting of three enclosures of square walls within each other is by far the most complex I've ever been in because of its state of ruin. I for the first time can not even begin to put together a layout of the place or even remember where I am, as ways are blocked and your forced to go over collapsed roofs, under walkways, over stone mountains etc. Three fully filled walls of buildings had collapsed over time. and without the neat restoration of everywhere else, the stone is still lying there blocking your every step and making you work for every inch. I was glad I had my guide even though it took a little away from the ruggedness of it. Deep inside having no idea where I was having gone under columns, through a walkway of a collapsed building again, it was anyone's guess where I came upon a fire burning away fallen branches and leave with locals nearby enjoying it...

    Soon after going through the usual patterns of climbing stone mountains, sometimes marveling that part of the mountain was made of beautifully carved lintels or columns I found myself going knee by knee under a small bridge that went from entrance to inner sanctuary I believe. These columns made me think back to Angkor Thom where I wondered there use, and here it was. We continued are travels in the middle, going past another stone filled building looking through a window. I wondered how I could be going through a hall and be looking into a window of another building but I guess when things collapse anything is possible. I make my way up a mountain of stone covered grass and eventually get a look at the bridge going into the building from the center. These mini bridges were had at all four entrance ways and obviously were important for those privileged to enter. Somewhere near here I'm shown the center building, the massive center tower that always marks the highlight of these temples... Rubble. A massive pile of stone like no other, nothing was remaining. That was actually great to see and I really smiled, an all natural tower from so many years ago as nature intended it to be.

    Continuing our walk alone the top level looking down at all the glory of this place, I pass a roofless long building or hallway covered inside with fallen leaves and left to right covered by vines and trees. It was one of the most picturesque things I'd seen and the picture really took itself. Every emotion could be triggered here, it just had a way of drawing you in. From here until we made it back out where we came in having only seen half the inside, it was nothing but hard trails and moss covered rock passing now and then a building so untouched you almost felt like sticking a flag in it and calling it yours own. Eventually I was back to where it began knowing that only half was seen because the other half is in such ruin as to be actually dangerous. It was over all to quickly, but the guide did very well and took the time to briefly explain some carving we'd seen along the way so I gave him a good fare.

    Not ready to leave, I walked around the entire outer wall checking out every long entrance path at every directions gate. Interestingly all the entrances from the outer wall had collapsed and left the same type of stone pile in front of them. The best part of the outer walk was the towers in each corner with wonderful asparas lining all the walls. Getting back to the front I really was in love with my time here and so glad I came. It all seemed liked the adventure would end here for the day, but it had only just begun. Upon starting back on the bike the skies just let rip on me and it poured for the entire almost 2 hours back. Muddy roads now, within minutes my legs were covered along with my arms, rain dripping down my face, and just about everything wet. Somehow I was able to smile and laugh as it just adds to the time. After maybe 30 minutes however I was cold damp and no to joyful about it anymore. The roads sucked but thankfully we made it to the paved Siem Reap road fast but that still meant almost an hour. The driver really nicely pulled over and got me a plastic bag to put my camera in some I wasn't huddled over it and it did the job. By the time we got back it had been a hard journey but a great day, and due to the rain gave the driver just a little more than agreed. Back in the room, I washed up quickly and then went straight to eat and relax. Heading to Battambang in the AM for some mountain views and home to the one and only bamboo train.....

     Sleep was a bit rough, as for some reason my alarm clock, a new one that I bought to take AA's since the other either fell out or was taken from my day bag. Since it shines gold I have a feeling someone thought it was worth something. Either way, it went off around 2am and really through me off having me thinking it was time to get up. Realizing it was a mistake, I did my best to get more rest until 7am when me and Tim got ready, had a quick meal and headed to the bus stop. The bus was there and we didn't have to wait long for the bus to become packed and ready to go. The drive was only about 2 hours and the same really as the way there, with me passing out every now and then. When we arrived all too quickly, I said my goodbye's to Tim who was heading to Phnom Penh and grabbed a tuk tuk to go once again to Okay guesthouse. As always they immediately ask if I want to go to the temples, I say no but deep down I really did want to go again. So much more to see.... Arriving at the guesthouse, I go upstairs to check in and although happy to see me they tell me there full. But right after I'm told to wait, and they quickly check if someone had left and within a few minutes I got a key a smirk telling me I was lucky but they were glad to have me again. I threw my bag in the room, grabbed my camera and went downstairs to pay the driver. But in my head I already knew what I was going to do, and instead of giving him the dollar, I negotiated a daily rate to see what I had I had missed before. And so it began, Angkor day 4. A quick trip to the ticket booth, performing the ritual of line waiting again before setting off towards Angkor Thom. At this point one thing is clear, I've become an addict in every sense with these Khmer temples. I can't get enough of them, and when I'm not seeing them I want to be back. While I'm there, the feeling is so incredible, but never like the first time I saw them and crave that extreme WOW factor I had the first few. Although a horrible analogy I think it's a funny one and it fits, so here goes. I feel like a child ruptured with something like Pokemon, but instead of trying to catch em all I'm trying to see em all. :-P

Baksei Chamkrong

This tower on a step pryamid was built by Harshavarman to house statues of Shiva and his spouse Devi. The outer wall that surrounded it no longer remains, but some things were restored by later kings. An important inscription lines the doorways praising kings from Jayavarman II onwards as well as lengendary kings.

     Now I had a few places in mind that I pointed to him on the map from my book, but we where headed first to Angkor Thom. My guide book had shown me a few places that I had missed totally which was really embarrassing, but the worst was when I was flipping through the pages for bayon and saw dozens of things I hadn't. Turns out in my rush to the faces, I had in fact without knowing it skipped the entire outer wall and most of the center. At this point I knew I had to go back, and finsish what I started days ago. Approaching the gate, I saw to my left a beautiful pyramid temple and basically yelled stop to the driver. I had without knowing it actually given myself three places to see, as they all lay in this small area. Walking towards my golden step like pyramid, I could feel the sense of adventure building up that I've come to crave. It looked so amazing, I just couldn't wait to climb it.  Four distinct tiers all far enough back from each other to give a look like nothing I'd seen yet. It was truly something.

     Getting to the steps, I stared them down fighting the urge to start them right away. I walk around the entire tower seeing it from both the left and right angles. The side views really gave it an edge, and I was already getting my moneys worth the first thing of the day.

     The view from the top was great, looking down the dirt path I'd taken to get here. The entire place was surrounded by tree cover, really giving it a lost feel when in the back. Once I had my look around the top level, passing by someone reading a book in the shade really taking in the place, I went into the center of the tower. The view from inside to the top was great, once again there was a hole in the top giving a great spiritual feeling as the light bursts down on you and feel the warmth of its rays. The sides of the doorway are littered with ancient khmer writings, one of the few of these I've seen. There quite rare, and why even today little is known about the Khmer lifestyle due to the little written record.

    Heading out, I look back to see the man still reading his book high up in the tower from a distance....

Prasat Bei

This temple is one of the few where the name actually matches the temple, as Prasat Bei means " Three towers " and it is just that. Consisiting of three side by side towers that probably were never finished. Two of the reach no higher than the doorways, and not all have been fully decorated.

Thma Bay Kaek

Little remains but a square platform. This as well as Prasat Bei were both built by Yasovarman I in the 10th century.

     Leaving the tower with a very pleased feeling, I head through the tree cover to another temple in sight a bit further back from the road. This simple yet elegant temple consists of three towers, although two look to have never been completed, since little stone is around to suggest there collapse. Sitting side by side on a raised platform, they have a nice feel about them as you appraoch. The main door has a commanding presence as you get near, and entering I once again have the privledge of looking up into a massive sky light.

     The two side structures are great due to the fact that they have no roof at all, giving you an uninterrupted view of the sky above. One side is completely clear with the blue sky all thats there while the other has great tree cover, giving the exact opposite feel. Overall this simple place is worth the visit and glad I noticed it.

     Directly in front of it are some really unimpressive ruins that have really nothing left to see. A small structure probably in the pathway to the temple it's in front of as an entrance, its only feature now is a massive linga representing shiva inside. Just beyond that theres a small platform where something once stood but where nothing remains, and to its left a small structure that holds the feet of a statue in its center, but looks more life a well now than anything else.

    Going back to the tuk tuk, we head back toward the main gate where I pass the familar struggle of statues off gods and demons yank the snake, something I've come to know as meaning I'm about to enter Angkor Thom. Pulling up to the Bayon, I look again at the wonderous structure I've come to love and can't wait to dive inside. This time entering through the side, the first thing I see is a serene looking buddha statue in the center of the outer wall corridors that I'd soon be walking.

      As I made my way around, It only tooks seconds for me to see what I was stupid enough to miss the first time. Masses of carved stone mark every inch of the inside of the outer wall. People ready to fight all over, elephants charging into battle, men on horses, even a scene looking like a cruxifiction lining every ince of the walls which take up to 10 minutes to get around each side even ignoring the carvings. Axes, arrows, swords, any thing battle related you could think of lined these walls. The carvings here are of a standard not even seen at Angkor. These are pristine, and the best condition ones I'd seen to date. I walked a full circle, really square, around the outer wall and took in ever scene. It would take far to long and to many pictures to show them all, so I've come up with what I think are the best to sum up my 45 minutes walk around the wall.

     It really did take me a long time to make it through the outside, and by the time I was headed inside I had lost a little taste for them having seen so many. The inner wall gallery would be more brief and not as in depth, but I'd get the idea before moving on. Right inside, looking to the sides I notice the mass of stone and the small buildings I believe were once libraries all over. I can't beleive I had skipped this as I'm usually so good about seeing everything, but looking ahead to the mountain of faces its once again easy to see how.

     Inside, I marvel at the maze like qualities that dot the interior at the bottom of the towers. Left brings you out to the right somehow, then back to the center, travelling far down one end and then turning somehow brings you to where you started... Getting lost in its maze like qualites is fun for a bit before hitting the inner walls. The reliefs here are just as detialed. but less war and mostly gods, yogi's, dancers, with the occasional battle here and there.

     At the top, I wonder around once again at home in array of faces, finding a place to sit in the shade for a moment and stare at them. The mass of people however doesn't really lend to reflection so before my memory up here gets replaced, I decided to head on. It was a good thing though, because time was short and it already being 1pm with so much left to see, I had to get moving. Not eating yet however, I stop for some rice before going on to the rest of Angkor Thom.

Suro Prat Towers

A series of 12 towers lining the side of the royal square. 6 sit on the left of the road leading to the royal palace while 6 more sit to the right. Behind them are the Khleangs, adding to overall feel. Built in the 13th century by Indravarman II.

The Khleangs

Built much earlier than the Prat towers that sit in front of them, the khleangs are from the late 10th century to ealry 11th under Jayavirvarman for the north, and Suryavarman I for the south. There use remains unclear as do the towers in front of them, but that should only add the mystery of the visit.

     Walking down the long road past where the elephant terrace is but on the oppostie side, I enter a field of towers that were really incredible. The first was really in bad shape, crumbling and very much unlike the others. This made it unique however, and making it to the back gave a great feel as stone met tree in a battle that the tree wins for sure.

     Moving from the first and looking on, I can see nearly all of them I thought in a line that really made them feel like one giant temple complex rather than individual towers. Moving along, behind the next few towers was the southern khleang. I knew from the book there was a northern one also, so I could now picture how the place was. Six towers on this side, and six on the other, each with a large building behind them known as the khleangs. From the front when the temples and roads where at there finest, the sight of these towers all in a row in front of massive buildings in perfect symetry must have been marvelous. Even now as I stare down the building and the towers together, I can get a small sense of what those people must have felt. Inside the long building, little remains but the wood keeping it from coming in on itself, but makes a great place to take in some shade and get great views of the towers from its windows.

     Outside, I notice a building not listed at all in my overly in depth guidebook and decide to check it out. While not much more than a platform remains with a modern buddha underneath a new structure, I liked the visit just not knowing what it was. Could have even been a walkway to the khleang, but I just wasn't sure as it was farther away than it should be for that.

     Back out front in the line of towers, I come out to the large basin of water still semi filled with water. The towers sitting in front of it give a pristine view and I really want to take this all in, so I hope over a small wall and sit directly in front for a few minutes. Walkin away afterwards, I realize that I no longer have my book, and although I make a vain attempt to go ind it, I knew that it was gone. I loved that book, as its advice was well worth its cheap price and immediately knew I'd negotiate one just as cheap or cheaper and get another one. But it didn't change that I was a little annoyed to have lost it. But that view.....

     Heading around to enter the north khleang, I pass a really terrific tower with a tree growing in the center that somehow hasn't damaged it one bit, in fact I'm not even sure the tree even touches the stone. It just sits dead center giving by far the best shot of on of these towers I'd gotten.

    The northern khleang followed the exact same pattern as the south, however the outside was in better condition and gave a better glimpse into what these two buildings looked like that flanked the one time road to the royal palace. I walked around inside for a bit before exiting the side and working my way towards the buildings I could see ahead.

Preah Pithu

A series of five temples in a wooded setting, although only two were built together. The complex consisted originally of large ponds surrounding some forming large moats although little evidence of that remains. Each has its own unique feel and worth the forest stroll. Some erected during Suryavarman II, others by Jayavarman VIII.

     My knowledge now more limited without the book I'd come to rely on, I knew only that I was entering an area of 5 temples, a complex of them all close together. The first of these was a large walled temple tower with crumbling walls. Piles of stone lined the walls, showing just how massive it must have been. I climbed to the top and could see four of the five, and now had a great idea of where I was going which really helped.

     The the 3 towers where very similar, but each had its own unique touches, One had amazing detail over the doorways and on its sides of aspara's, another had a wonderful tree line overhead which gave it a reall nice view when you stared towards the top. Yet another had a platform that it sat upon giving great views of the surrounds. I could feel myself rushing here, but these were nothing great spectacular and I was giving them each a little time and then moving on. I knew that I had other things to see that were a good drive and I was determined to see them. So I kept my steady pace until the fifth and final temple in the complex which was by far the most interesting for various reasons.

     As I approached, I was given a real nice view of a tree flanked small building, and soon after found myself lost in the jungle like aspects of the final temple. It was leaving it however where the real action began. I saw someone taking photos of monkeys on a temple, and so wanted to do the same. When I walked over however they all came within inches of legs and started making noise and poking at my pants. This made for a few cool photo's, but these guys can be really dangerous when they want to and so backed away rather nervously after. Heading back to the road, I passed something very unique. A large paltform with nothing on top, but completely surrounded by small round pillars. Nothing in khmer building seemed to explain this, and I had to chalk it up as a mystery for now.

Leper King Terrace

Most likely built during the riegn of Jayavarman VII and added to during Jayavarman VIII's alterations to the royal palace. This terrace sits near the royal square but more independent than the other structures. It's named after the 15th century statue that sits atop it, although from a much later period.

     Back on the road, I simply walked across seeing that I was directly across from where I wanted to go and my last two sights in Angkor Thom before having actually completed this massive ancient city. Somewhere between here and the road however I bashed by big tow against a stone and really cut it open. Nothing that couldn't wait until I was back, I had things to see. I made my way across into the trees of the other side and came across the terrace of the leper king. Now it actually is the end of the elephant terrace where this starts, but having though it was the same thing before missed it. This place was great, the reliefs were wonderful and the statue of a naked man on the top was really stunning in its uniqueness. The terrace is actually named after that statue, but for someone with lepresy to have been king would really surprise me. I just think they would have viewed him as an easy target and someone would have usurped him. Along the side, I realized I could actually go in between the walls which was terrific though not for the caustrophobic. The inside held amazing stone work like seven headed snakes and five headed horses. Before I could make it all the way around, I came upon a few kids sleeping on the floor. I didn't want to step over them and felt bad, so I let them be and kept going the other way.

Tep Pranam

A ginat buddha is worshipped here by a nearby modern temple, although the buildings are nothing but platforms now and little remians.

     Sitting deeper in the trees behind the leper king terrace is the ruins of tep Pranam. A modern temple still worships a buddha statue on the ruined temple platform, but nothing remains of the building. The pathway once leading to it is however still there, flanked by by nagas and lions. I give it a quick lookover before heading on.

Preah Pithu

A series of five temples in a wooded setting, although only two were built together. The complex consisted originally of large ponds surrounding some forming large moats although little evidence of that remains. Each has its own unique feel and worth the forest stroll. Some erected during Suryavarman II, others by Jayavarman VIII.

     Just a bit further behind I made my way to the temple I could see in the distance, hoping it was the right tower and my last stop here as I didn't wat to be lost. It was almost 3:30 giving me only 2 hours to see me remaining 4 sights. But as soon as I saw it I knew Iw would not be rushing here. A massive tower in semi ruins sits nestled up with trees and trunks bulging from its base. Staring at the top the view you get is other worldly. Its so perectly accented by the trees and the stumps, I can't look away. Eventaully however I get the urge to climb the crumbling steps and make it to the center. From up here, touching the trees I get a great sense of joy. Very excited, I hope through the mass of stone in the center from the collapsed ceiling and make my way to the otherside. The trunks are in full view now, and after looking them over I make my way back down to get more views of this amazing piece. I here a guide say to the only other 2 people here that the trunks of the three trees were just cut days ago to stop the weight from ruining of crashing down the tower. It would have been wonderful to see it covered in nature, but being able to see it all is probably thanks to the preservation efforts.

     I reluctantly make my way back to the tuk tuk and after almost 4 hours here move on to my next few destinations hopefully completeing everything I wanted to see in the main Angkor area.

Thammanon

While Angkor wat was being built, this building also was being erected under the eye of Suryavarman II in the 12th century. This small temple surrounded by a high wall has amazing detail and although restoration has taken place, most is still original. The style of Angkor can be felt immediately in the compact tower that sits in the center.

Chao Say Tevoda

Sitting directly across from Thammanon. this temple of the same preiod is very similar although in a more ruined state. Also surrounded by a large wall, the temple follows a similar layout, although with one extra building inside the complex.

      Pulling off to the side of the road a few minutes dow the road from Angkot Thom, I see something new and all too excited. Seeing two places, one on each side of road was not however what I expected. Turns out my next two places sat across from each other which was perfect and saved a little time. Approaching, I can see most of the temple due to its walls being mostly in ruin. The sign tells me this is Chao Say Tevoda, and I enter other a few stones past the wall. I can recognize the style from many other places, but really similar to Phimai in Thailand.

     Making my through the square, looking through the small buildings in the corners, walking slowly and looking up at the sky through the not so there ceiling. The detail on the outside of the main building was really nice at parts, so I went around to try and see what else I could find. A really stunning aspara was on the corner of the main tower, and by far stood out the most.

      The layout here was small, and even entering the center tower didn't use much time. Dark, there was little I could do without a light which I didn't have. Eventually I made my way out a side entrance which seeing the pathway of stone showed me it was proabaly the main entrance. I walked down in towards where it enters the tree line and gave a look at the temple from the outside. From here it was back to the center where I wandered a bit and just tried my best to see everything before heading across the road to Thammanon. Before getting there however, I bought a new guide book cheap as always from a book seller and was all too happy to have it back.

     Across the road and approaching Thammanon, I can't help but notice even from far away that there are some real similarities between the two neighbors. The interior layout is the same minus one building really, and the walls are almost the same state of ruin. What is different however is the detail payed to this one. The almost all original exterior I learned from a nearby guide was just stunning. Here I strayed from the norm and immediately payed attenion to the center.

      As I walked the grounds and checked the smaller buildings, the walls, and some smaller things, I couldn't help notice ther center and its perfect glow from the light as the sun began to go down. This was the oerfect setting to visit this temple and the perfect time as any other light would just not do this place justice. The glow on the asparas on the corner of the main temple was one of if not the most stunning carving I've ever seen, and I owe it to the perfect sunlight. Everything benefited equally, from the small buildings to the center, with its Angkor style tower glowing and the doorways half covered. As I watched, I chatted with a girl from Boston and an older couple where equally blown away.

    I do my last rounds before leaving, but not before taking a final look back at an amazing place. Definitely had some of the rush of seeing something that perhaps no one else will the same way.

     Bat Chum

Consists of three towers on a row on a platform much like Prasat Bei, although the style remains very different. The towers are in ruin and under restoration. Middle of the 10th century under Rajendravarman.

     About a 10 minute ride later down the road towards where I went to Banteay Kdei from days before, I pull down a dirt road that loops through countryside past cows grazing until reaching Bat Chum, a small temple in ruins and heavy restoration. I probably spent 5 minutes here as the 3 towers side by side, similar to Prasat Bei, were in ruin but what really turned everything off was the massive bamboo scaffolding. I spent maybe 2 of the minutes checking out the scaffolding lol, it was kinda cool.

     Prasat Kravan

This unusual temple of five towers in a single row is set back on the road from angkor wat. At first they look rather plain and only the color stands out, but upon further inspection they contain treasures of there own. Known for its unique carvings that line the entire insides of the towers. Probably unfinished, as most don't make it past the doorway and some carving looks incomplete.

     Just a minute or so down the road was a temple I had passed maybe 10 times during my 3 day trip here before, but just never stopped. No driver ever wanted to nor did I ever speak up say to nay of them " Hey pull over ", and it was strange finally being there and stopping. The five side by side towers are in view right away and man do they shine! The color, like a red mud brick just its perfect and I can already tell its going to be a nice end to the day. The walkway I notice is lined with paper bags with candlea inside, and I have no idea what for. I just watch all the different angles as I make my way to the back, taking tons of photo's of the stunning front.

     The rear really lets me know whats going on as purple satin chairs line two tables in front of the platform causeway once ajoining the temple. A wedding was most likely taking place here, or maybe a celebration at sunset.

     As I made my way inside the center tower, I was shocked by the inside. Huge carvings of each of the main 3 gods, Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva line each wall. The piece takes up the entire tower, and the carvings almost double me in height. There are truly great, and become the perfect way to end my day. These carvings gave me a wow factor at the end, not the middle, and there really is a diference. As I make my way outside again, I wonder what the other towers have to offer. Although smaller and have the unfinished look, my hopes are high.

     Three out of the remaining four have no interior carvings, but the last one on the right did which was much to my delight. The front wall had a great one going all the way up, while the sides where only have finished.

    Leaving, I turn around and see the beautiful color once more, this time even better as the sunlight hits it just right. A great way to end the day. The tuk tuk ride back will be during sunset as usual, so a great view awaits along the way...

     The entire next day way spent uploading this blog as happened last time when so much is done so fast! :-P

      Up right around 5am to get ready for the sunrise, I got dressed and surprisingly awake went out and headed towards the door of the guesthouse. By then the others where already on there way out aswell, and we all met outside right on time. The three drivers were already waiting, so we jumped on the backs of the motorbikes in the pitch black of pre-dawn, and started our ascent up the mountain to Preah Vihear. The bikes started up the winding dirt roads of the mountain, and are journey had begun. All too early the temp. was far below what I had gotten used to down in southern Cambodia. As we fly on the bikes at high speeds zipping around corners, the icy cold chill of the wind sends shivers down my spine. As the bikes roar there way up, the wind blasts every inch of the body only covered by shorts and T-shirt. As I shiver, I find that I love every minute it. Still dark, going past the views of the towns below starting to look like ants as we get higher and higher, the wind blasting me just seems to make me feel alive.

     Adrenaline flowing, I mentally start pumping myself up for more, hoping he goes faster and pushing more ice cold wind my way. As we approach the top, the road turns very rocky and I find myself leaving the seat now and then as the bikes hits the hard bumps. Stopping, I knew we where there, but where that was I had no idea. Still pitch black, the three of us get of the bikes and look around. We arrange at 9am pick-up giving us 3 hours to explore. We head straight towards the sillouette of a wall we can tell is stone from a temple. We can barely see it but know its there. As we step up the many stairs, we see the sun starting to peek through the clouds. Ahead of us where a massive set of ruined stone stairs leading even higher, and we decide to get to the top and see the sunrise there. It seemed like where skipping things at first, but as we passed the stairs we realized we couldn't see anything clearly and weren't missing anything, we were simply going to start from the top and work are way down after the light came up. After reaching the top of stairs, more stone came into view, and another set of massive steps in stone. Seeing even yet a fourth level ahead, we now knew that this was a temple that went up in four tiers all in a line to the very top. We saw a magnificent view from tier three, so thats were we stayed. We lost Caleb however, as the cold was really getting to him, and he hid behind some stone to get out of the wind. As me and Tim approached the edge, we got more than we could have ever asked for. Dawn starts to break, the clouds in formations only the heavens knew before. We stare, getting blasted by wind, and just stay in awe at what lay ahead.

     I wish I could say that I had a care in the world about how cold I was, but I can't because I didn't. The only this that I knew was this, that I was watching the most beautiful thing I had seen in as long as I can remember and I just didn't know why. What I did know was that this moment was the start of a unforgettable time up here, and thats all that mattered. The view along with the fact that I was sharing it with a friend was great, but it was the bodily feeling that made it all complete. Not to mention that we where alone up here, making things all the more amazing. To have a place like this to yourself is just too good to be true. As I looked on into the clouds, pelted by the lie bringing wind I'm forced to feel it. It's not just a mental feeling now, it's coupled with a physical feeling of truly being alive. I can't fully explain it, but in that moment I had not a care in the world. No amount of cold, no amount of fear from falling of the cliff below, getting sick etc, nothing was taking this away. For these moments I was free from the confines of my usual thinking, a moment I'd searched for my whole life. Any instant the feeling could pass, and holding on until that moment was all that I was doing.

    As the sun seemed to have disappeared behind heavy clouds, we smiled and painfully turned away. We head into the temple that was the fourth and final part and headed towards the back to start at the end before the light truly revealed what we had waiting for us. I rushed for the back just for that reason, while Tim waited inside. Upon reaching the back after ducking through a small stone window and over rubble, I came upon part two of the sunrise I'll never forget. I ran back and got Tim, who slowly followed me and when we both got to the back he stopped, thanked me, and we both headed for the mass of rocks at the very edge of the mountain overlooking the fully round disk of the bright orange sun.

     Climbing the rocks, stopping to take a photo of a rather strange round stone structure looking like a well, I made it to the best viewing point the entire mountain had to offer. Just as the feeling probably would have went away, it was fully regenerated 10 fold, and thrown into over drive as I stood looking thousands of feet down and then up towards the full dawn. Wind still gusting, there was never a moment I was more lost in than this. A state of trance was not far away, but I was fully aware of everything. This was everything to me. We stayed there for a long time, moving from rock to rock, sometimes sitting and taking it all in. As tim went to the edge for a photo, I shot one of the rocks he was on enjoying the moment as much as me. As I sat on a rock with the colors behind me, I had my picture taken in full glory of the moment. Nothing in the world could have come together more perfect than this did, and although I knew that once I left this rock, this moment would never be here again. Putting myself in it 100%, losing myself in it and just appreciating it while it was here was all I could do, and I did just that.

    Finally leaving knowing full well the outcome, it was time to actually start the original purpose of being here, the temple of Preah Vihear. What I already knew was that my time here was the full package, to me Preah Vihear will go hand and hand with mountain top views it brings, and the two can not be separated. The temple will either make things even more wonderful, or will be overrun by the mountain top sunrise. Either way, nothing can be ruined. Before getting far we started to notice military troops walking the temple grounds, confirming the fact that the on going conflict between cambodians and thais here is still ongoing. We made our way into the temple, the final one if heading from the top and not backwards like us, and went inside. Lit now by the dawn light, stepping in the first thing that hits me is a real " wow ". Not because of any massive carvings or detail, but because one half of the tmeple is pristine while the other has been blown to bits by TNT, or so it looks. As I walk around through the middle of the wall that surround the center building, I can't help but admire the genius it must have taken to get all this stone so far up here.

     Walking around, I find to my surprise I'm still buzzing from earlier although not exact, remnants remain giving me a smile that won't leave and jumpy like a kid with a never-edning bag of candy. I circle around the inner area of the temple, trying to find its little hidden gems. Moving to the side of the temple still in tact, I am really taken back the every so prefect golden light given to the temple by the rising sun. The gift that keeps on giving, this ball of gas just keeps dropping me gems that I take without thinking twice. On all sides in different amounts, the stone is graced by the light.

     The space betweem the center and the walls are lined with columns, remnants of the left side of the inner wall. The other sides still remains, allowing you to walk fully between the wall. The space here is really something although its the entire package that I was really impressed with and everything and anything was getting bonus points right now. I was in a mood that couldn't be critical, a very strange change for me indeed.

     Walking around eventually leads me to a tiny corner where I slip by and call Tim over. In the corner is tons of pieces of stone that still needed to be put back in place but never were, all laying against the wall hidden away. Among these was a giant five headed naga or snake, in full detail and all original. I really was amazed by it and that these actually graced the corners of this structure.

     Leaving the top level and making our way to the third, stepping out gives the view of the all to impressive third tier and its buildings. It looks even more impressive than the top, mostly because of its fantastic preservation. The perfectly straight stone path leads to it, and staring down I remember that that straight path goes from tier to tier all the way down. Before stepping off, I notice a lion that is just being silhouetted perfectly by the sun directly behind it, and do my best to capture it. I do my best, and then we begin heading down the path to start the next chapter.

     Once at the entrance we could see our MIA friend, and we stop and chat. He was just really messed up by the cold so skipped the sunrise and just started exploring on his own when it got warming after the sun was up. My heart truly wept for what he missed.

      Looking around, I could see some amazing things that had happened to the walls overtime. They looked like they were melting. as thee ground had shifted and the rocks were holding each other in place by the corners of blocks pressing against each other. It was quite amazing to see. Looking back at where I came, I saw a building, but what I really saw was the rocks with x-ray vision, my mind just seeing what it wanted to. Soon after Tim pulled out a box of Ritz crackers, cheese and bread from his bag. This guy was amazing and the most prepared person travelling I'd met. Breakfast was on him, and we took a break here.

Paragraph.

     As I've about to move on down to the 2nd tier, I see the other 2 are not so ready. They want to head back to the top one last time before heading down the long stairs and knowing they won't be going back up. I stare laughing to myself as if I had thought going back up to be impossible. I raced to catch up and get back to my favorite spot in the world now, the rocks over looking the entire plain, and what once over looked my sunrise. Getting there, I all go close to the edge to finally see whats below here, and see thats it sheer cliff that drops straight down so far that it blurs at the bottom. It was great to see it in full light, and I walked around for a bit on the rocks. By accident, I found a small opening in the rocks that looked like cave, which led out onto a small flat terrace jetting out from the side of the mountain. Under here shielded from the wind, a different kind a wonder came over me. A silence came, looking down the mountains side. Wind still gusting, as I can see but not feel as I stare for minutes at a small bush hanging for dear life growing on the side of the rock face. To the right under the rock thats overhead is a small shrine, and the start of a barb wire fence, the first real evidence of fortification I'd seen here. The view from here was wonderful, and a truly great sight. After some time, we head back down and this time decide to go for the 2nd to last level and start our exploring there.

     Exiting the doorway, I see to my right a small tower with a full grown tree growing right out of it, vines crawling all over one side. I walk over and around it, really enjoying it as I always do with structures that are so intertwined with nature.

     Not to long after it's down the path, looking down to the temple awaiting me below. It's hallways go left and right from its center, and the arches over them from the front give the appearance that its has pikes going up from its sides. The view of it from up top is stunning and I can't wait to get to it. From here on, more and more soldiers start to appear on the paths heading down. Tim is as always engaging them into broken Khmer which they seem to enjoy so much. Making down there is some nice touches to it, but it was obvious from above that the structure only went to the sides and wouldn't have much to see. The doorways were adorned with men tugging on a snake and elephants and animals helping in the action. The other side was in ruin, but the approach down hill had all the view I needed from this tier. The beauty of this place was incredible, going down was bitter sweet as I wanted to keep seeing more, but was still buzzing over what I had seen and didn't want to leave.

      About halfway down the path leading to the bottom tier, to the right was a large water basin that once held water for the temple complex here. How it was filled way up here I don't know, but I can see how there filling it now. A man is inside pumping water in from below to give it back its feel and better restore its original look. I go inside and poke around, loving the view from inside. Outside the pool, I talk with a solider and laugh a bit, and he lets us take his photo which really just shocked me. They were just so laid back and friendly.

     Further down, I reach the spot where our moto's dropped us and see the flags of UNESCO flying high, letting everyone know that this is a World Heritage Site. The bottom level is just a small entrance way and in bad shape, but I understood because we had done it backwards, basically the best first.

     But there was more down here then we thought, as we could see stairs going much further down to the bottom of the mountain. We started down, and about halfway reached two giant snakes lining the stairway, each with unique features that were just awesome.

     Not to much farther down was the sign showing the place was cleared of mines, something I've seen all to often and will see again. Just 4 years ago, over 600 mines were still active here from the Vietnam war making all travel here risking everything. It's truly crazy to think about, but I'm really glad that this place is now open and I was able to have this time here. Down here its all too real just how much preparation there is for war with Thailand as bunkers with machine guns line the mountains edge fully armed with solders. Being up top things seemed so calm, no evidence of anything serious, just s nice temple. But here, you truly feel like the temple is just inside a military base, and so are you. From the bottom its obvious we went down quite a bit, and that only from tier 1 to basically tier 0 since its ground level. Its here that I hit the entrance sign for Preah Vihear temple, proving that the way I traveled this was truly odd indeed. I didn't even enter where I thought I did.

     Down here at the bottom level was at first what I though to be shops for visitors, but soon realize its for all the soldiers and there families stationed here. Kids are everywhere, dozens of off duty soldiers eat and watch a movie. It was truly evident here that we had just walked into a military outpost and no one cared. not only that, they were all too kind and happy to show us around and interact with us and the children. Cambodia is truly amazing and this experience right now will never happen again. If I had in any way had basically tried to do what happened here, I'd have been shot back home. But here, I get nothing but smiles and the shaking of hands with solders.

     Back up top, we go to meet our moto's and pass some remnants of the times when mines littered the area. We pass more bunkers and more solders, but never feel in harms way. But the reality is that whether I wanted to believe it our not, just last April men were killed here as shots were fired from the Thai side. I probably shouldn't be able to say this, but I can really now say that I have walked a battlefield in a military base for hours without even knowing it. I had known about the skirmishes, but coming in the dark allowed me to make it to the top without seeing the real deal before the temple. Leaving and riding down the mountain on the moto's at full speed, we pass the same mountains views and a nice breeze, but this time see hundreds of soldiers lining the sides in camps, a truly unique way to end a truly unique place.....

    Back at the village, Caleb goes and tries and find a ride to Koh Ker and do a very hard ride back to Siem Reap in a circle. I want to tag along, but already had agreed to split a car back to Anlong Veng with Tim. He slept a while and I followed Caleb around town a bit passing some kids playing what is basically volleyball but with a small soccer sized ball thats hit with the feet only. We then had breakfast, and soon after he was off on his motorbike. Around 2 hours later, we got in our car and were going to be off ourselves, headed back to Anlong Veng. During the ride back, I start to think about Preah Vihear, and realize that I'll never know when the great eelings left, as it happens so slowly. Only thinking about it now do I realize how far away it is know. I can close my eyes an almost bring myself back.. Almost. The ride is short and getting out in Anlong Veng, I go to a recommended guesthouse and get a room. Tim ends up coming back from checking the buses and decided hes going to split the room with me and take the bus back to Siem Reap in the morning instead of taking off this afternoon. We sit in the room a few minutes getting our things settled before heading out for lunch and the sites. As I sit on my bed, I feel the breeze from the fan as its passes me on its swing, and the cool air for a slight second has me in a deja vu mentally back in Preah Vihear.

    After negotiating some moto's, we head off to see the only local sights all be them a whole different type. Anlong Veng was the last stronghold of the Khmer Rouge and on of the most heavy mined during the war. The sights here are modest, being Pol Pot's grave and house as well as his officers. As we start the journey, we go to Ta Mok's house, on of the highest in rank during the genocide here. They want two dollars to go down the road which leaves a bad taste with us and we decide to skip it. A few minutes further down the road was his grave. This had my jaw drop. We rode into a small temple and find a large decorated pagoda with the stone grave inside. I stare shocked and almost hurt, a man responsible for killing so many given such a respectful burial... It made no sense, but in these parts little does. Perhaps the fear is still strong here, but to give this man this and vwith a view of the surrounds for all time just seems wrong.

     Leaving here, we head about ten minutes uphill on paved roads, passing some nice scenery until hitting a small strip of houses. We pull off the road, and our drivers take us in the back yard of a house and down a dirt path where we come to the resting place of Pol Pot himself. At least not a pagoda, the simple tin roofed place is probably still too befitting of a man who killed 3 million people. Here, incents line the front and a proper garden planted by locals. There's even a small shrine erected by a man who claims pol pot gave him lottery numbers in his dream. Its all too much for me really. Tim talks about it with out drivers who in broken english just curse him up and down, pol pot that is. We don't stay long at either place, as curiousity brought us here but upon coming giving it any more time seems disrespectfuk in it self.

     Me and tim break here, as he just doesn't seem interested at all and almost seems frustrated to have wasted money. I on the other hand wanted to go further and complete the trip finishing with pol pot's house, so I gave him the key and would meet him back at the room. The ride to the house was the most insane trip I'd ever taken. Into the mountains on bike with no road, just bashing through buses and bumping over rocks making the bike almost tip many times. After an hour of up and down, wrong turns and getting lost out here, the ride was fun and adventurous but all to real. The fact was that this place was heavily mined and although technically mostly de-mined, the key word is mostly. Getting lost was not safe, and I allowed myself some real nervous thoughts here. But eventaully, up our final path of heavy ass hurting rocks, I came across the isolated house. Really some homeless have had better digs, and this surprised me. As a communist leader, I pictured a dictator with lavish things but this was true to form. Nothing but a small bunker like house with low ceilings and a balcony overlooking the mountains. Inside was dreary and cold, too small for anyone to live I think. But it had a powerful affect on me as I realized from this that this man must have actually believed everything he did, all the killing, was actually for a cause he really believed in. Overlooking the mountains, I ponder it a bit before getting on the bike for the long trip back.

     In town again, I enter the room to ind him asleep but woke up when the door opened. We rested up before going and grabbing a few beers and watching the news for a while before going to grab dinner. We chatted away and caught up and my little extra trip. Later we watched some video's on my laptop, Tom and jerry cartoons, and soon realized I probably had to many. All in all one of the most emotion filled days I've ever had. Every end of the specturm was hit today, every single but of it. Tomorrow it's back to Siem reap as a junction to the rest of cambodia...

    
      Packing my things and getting ready, I spent the morning on the internet since the bus to Anlong Veng wasn't until 1:30pm. After a few hours on the good old PC, it was up to the restaurant for lunch and then check out. I really loved it here and hate to leave, but I have really high hopes for what awaits me. Heading down stairs, the owner was waiting to drive me to the bus station and was all to easy. Arriving at the station, I sat down, had my ticket checked and then grabbed some waters for the journey. Sitting down since I was a half hour early, I started chatting with an fellow from England in 40's, and we just went on about Laos. When the bus came and we got our bags on and settled in our seats, we kept the chat going for a bit. The ride was only 2 hours, and to my surprise consisted of a perfect paved road the entire trip, passing beautiful countryside. I went in and out the entire ride, sleeping here and there, so arriving in Anlong Veng felt like no time at all. I had every intention of staying overnight here, and going around to the few local sights. However, upon stepping off, me and Tim, the English gentleman, saw the only other foreigner on the bus talking to someone about getting a private car to Preah Vihear. We both immediately looked at each other and knew we had to join him, since it was both of our destinations anyway and 3 people splitting the Toyota Camry would be very cheap. So we got a price set and we were off, all very happy that it worked out so nice. I will simply hit Anlong Veng on the way back. 


       We all chatted away about the  wonders of Angkor, and how crazy it was that we were on our way to see another temple. I knew Preah Vihear was not that accessible, but the road that we hit was one of the most interesting I'd ever done. Although in the middle of being paved, it's currently a mass of dirt and piles of stones, making cars tilt halfway over going through these piles. Only room for a single lane with cars going both ways, its gets hairy. Pulling into the village of Preah Vihear, the reality of just how out of the way I was really hits. Not another foreigner in sight. Just a simple village with a small market at its heart, no more than 2 blocks in all.

      We find our way to our rooms, having only 2  places to chose, I opt for the cheaper $5 room. After we were all settled in, we just went about the town looking around, eventually settling somewhere to eat. Tim had a great Khmer vocabulary which came in handy since there was no English here, so eating was a challenge. But he was able to get his order done in Khmer, while me and Caleb just pointed to a noodle dish that was already made and got something similar back. Dinner went really great as we all got know each other and as it got later conversation changed to news and politics etc, which made for a great time. Around 9pm we decided to turn in, but not beore wondering the town looking for bread or cakes we could quickly eat in the morning. Having gotten what we needed, we all headed back to our rooms and relaxed before calling it a night. It was going to an early one, as we arranged for 3 motorbikes to meet us at 5:30am for a sunrise at Preah Vihear....

     So as noted before, the past two days were really just getting everything from my 3 days in Angkor all down before I couldn't remember all the little things that went along with it. There not going away any time soon, but I wanted it all done while I had wifi and before even more happened and piled on top. So aside from my some PC trouble and some very frustrating blog stuff and a few trips to the store for goodies nothing has happened the past 2 days. But the rest was good, sleeping in got my body back to 100% after all the walking and all in all with the blog done it was a productive 2 days. Of to Anlong Veng in morning.

     Up a little later than the past few days, I was ready by 8am and met my driver downstairs in the guesthouse lobby. I was going to find my own driver again, but the owner here arranged it for me yesterday so it was just easier to take that driver. The plan today was to head to the Southeast, the last portion of the vast area of temples called The Roluos Group. These temples are mostly 9th century, and were going to give me something to compare with the newer ones I'd already seen. Now having my book I noticed there where only 3 temples/cities there, but I just assumed they all weren't in the book. Aside from there, the only other thing was getting up on that balloon. That was what I was really looking forward to today. Stepping outside however told me it might not happen, as today was yet another windy day. I didn't really let myself think about it, and was off to The Roluos Group.... First up, Lolei

Lolei

An island temple at one time much like East Mebon, this temple of much smaller size not sits on a hill surrounded by a modern day buddhist temple and small childrens school. This gives it a unique feel being so close to modern life, however its size only gives reason for a very short visit. Started by Indravarman, and completed by his son Yasovarman I, the small temple consists of four towers, each believed to have been dedicated to a god.

     Approaching the site that was down a small dirt road, I was stunned to find a school in session and a modern buddhist temple on the same grounds. The temple is at the end of a road very much surrounded by a village and lots of people. This actually had me intrigued a bit, but upon getting closer I realized there just wasn't much here at all. Passing by some children collecting donations for there school ( Doubt that's actually were the money goes ), I get to the four towers of this temple. Not seeing much difference in style, the real difference was in size. Small enough to be walked through in 2 minutes, I tried giving it some real time anyway and looking at the carvings and detail of the best kept tower. The asparas looked like there were of fresh cement for the most part, evidence that they were probably restored and the originals I probably saw in the national museum. Knowing now that most of what has been restored actually has an original still alive and well in the museum, it's so much easier to look at. It's not just thrown together, it was carefully matched to keep the style while at the same time preserving the real piece for all time.

     Doing my small walk around once more before heading out, I think to myself how crazy it is that I can now look at something like this with such critique. Simply a year ago this tiny place would have blown me away, but now having been accustomed to great ones, my bar is simply set higher now. Looking at all four towers, it hits me that for me from now on, everywhere I go its just going to get harder to impress myself. Thats just how I work, but the realization of it comes kinda hard and sad. Better make sure I don't visit Egypt till later in life so the pyramids don't tower over everything else :-P

    Heading back to the tuk tuk, I get ready for my next stop after this light teaser of a stop to start the day. The roads here weren't like the others, as I noticed I was in very inhabited parts albeit countryside, and this area didn't escape people settling all around the temples. This is probably because they see little visitors here, unlike the over 1 million a year headed to Angkor Wat itself. So off I was to my next stop, although I had no idea what it was until we pulled up.

Preah Ko

This rather small temple consists of 6 towers on a single platform, surrounded by a series of outer walls and moat. Being the first temple built by Indravarman I in his capital city, it most likely contained the Royal Palace, although no trace has ever been found.

     Although not far from people, Preah Ko is not at all in middle of anyones residences and set back a little from the road. Getting close the remains of the walls are now but ruins, making the entire site clear as day from the moment you walk towards it. Moving straight ahead toward the main towers, I notice there very similar in style to lolei, although little else is in common. The structure here has little but the towers standing, but the overall size is quite large. Remnants of buildings dot the landscape and can be seen all over the grounds inside the walls. The towers from almost every angle look like three massive towers side by side, and it isn't until your actually upon them do you realize that another set of 3 towers sit directly behind them.

      With tallest being in the center of each 3 giving it a nice look, I stare at it for a moment taking in the fronts powerful image. The main towers doorway sits dead center in your vision assisted by the large lions on each which is normal, but the cow that was dead center in front was different. Although it was different, it wasn't abnormal and by now I was fully aware that hindu monuments often had them. The corners of the tower retain some wonderful detail, which never ceases to make me think about what it may have looked like it full glory. The doorway contains a large passage in a script I obviously couldn't read, but fascinated me since I hadn't seen anything like it anywhere else. Moving along the sides, the fake doors on all the other sides of the tower remain in full detail. I'd seen them before but never th

     Moving to the side of the platform, walking over grass covered hilly ground I get to the side and really for the first time get a view of almost all the towers at once. It's really a nice place and opposite of my thoughts just minutes before at lolei, I'm really able to appreciate this for what it is. The " Wow " factor of coarse is long gone and nothing short of a super version of The Bayon could produce one again, but all the same a wonderful piece and part of the great Khmer buildings I've come to love.

    Walking through the main grounds over the ruins of what was once great long halls and buildings, I make my way back to the entryway and find my driver. This guy doesn't sleep as much as the others and I've shocked to keep finding him awake when I get back ready to go. With only one place left in the Roluos group I knew where I was going, but I was a little down that there really was only 3 places

Bakong

The state temple of Indravarman I and the first real Temple Mountain of the Khmer Empire, Bakong is the stunning jewel of the Roluos Group and only real large structure. It's size is quite massive, consisting of large outer walls and a moat. The five tiers culmanate with a giant central tower on the final tier. The ground level has equally large towers of its own, 8

    Arrving at Bakong, walking down the long dirt path leading to the structure, it was obvious to me that here was something stunning and worth seeing. The giant towers poke out from within the compound, the view flanked by tropical trees adding the view. As I make my way halfway down the path, the moat reveals itself all to full with water giving some really great views. The moats when still evident really give an amazing feel to the place, showing just how large things were and how much effort they put forth to keep these temple cities safe from invaders. Getting to the entrance, the scope of the towers start to come into view, and I can't wait to get inside.

    Through the outer wall, I can see people at the top of the tower slowly edging there way back down the narrow steps being careful not to fall. People always seem to look like small animals when on these temples, and it adds a powerful sense of size to them. Walking closer, remnants of the stone path that once led to the stairs leads me, with ruined buildings filling the space between the inner and outer walls.

    Moving up the first two tiers, doing my best to walk around and take in each level, I notice that each corner has elephants on every tier except the last, reminding me of East Mebon, although this temple is actually the much earlier one. I walk around never really knowing where to go up as each side has a set of stairs leading to a different view of the top. I eventually hed up, but not before marveling at the ginat lions that line the stairways with great views beyond them. The view of the complex is great even from these levels, and a clear impression is made from the ruined long buildings which from above can clearly be made out. Its rare what I've seen to have these small pillar buildings remain standing, and I really liked seeing the inside from above.

     Looking up at the next few tiers, I take in the massive central tower really wanting to head straight for it. I decide to keep working my way around each tier however really trying to do my best to see all that was here. Plus the views just get better each level, with every side offering something different.

     Walking the forth tier, I now have a great view of the ground level towers and have time to look at them with a keen eye. Passing one of them, a man yells up to me with the normal questions, and then tells me he works here and is helping with recent restorations. I hadn't actually seen any going on here, and continued working my way around. I tell him after I go to the top I'll come down and talk more. As I make my way to one side, I get a clear straight forward view down the stairs with two ground level towers in each side. This view is similar on each of the four sides, until however I reach the one being restored. You have to be on that side to notice, which is really weird since the scaffolding is quite large.

     I eventually head the the top, passing by all the smaller mini towers on the forth tier and reach the center of the top. I love the views from here, and take some time to take it all in. There's actually not all that much to see up here though as its a single tower and I'm glad I took my time getting up here. Seeing the lower levels proved a great decision and I slowly make my way back down after not to long. I head down one side, and plan on leaving through it but am flagged down by the same guy from before. He directs me to duck under some wood blocking the stairs of the side being restored and I make my way down into the restoration zone. 

     He then procedes to tell me all about his work here, giving me the tour. I'm taken over to see a pile of bricks which are all original and have been set aside. Those that can still be used will be put back into place, while a pile of factory made bricks sits next to them and will be used when needed to keep the pieces in place. He shows me the mortar being used, a mix of fruits, clays, even rice, as they try and made a mixture similar to that used during the Khmer period. This really pleases me actually, and I've really glad to know this. He then shows me the lintels being put back place, giant stone slabs from the tops of doorways that fell just five months ago. He mentions how it can take up to five years to fix such a thing, and that he's going to be here for quite some time. Next comes a short history on the buildings here, showing me what was once a hospital and a library etc. I'm told the outer ground lever towers are burial stupa's for great people and famous monks or preists of the time. It doesn't take long however for him to start explaining things I already knew or just wasn't interested in, and affirmed why I could never have a guide. Before long we head over to the other side, when we pass a family of cambodians, probably kin to those working here, and a very very young boy standing on the tower. He then procedes to urinate all over it, no one moves to stop and the mother even laughs. This is the full circle of what its like. Some try to restore, others just don't care or don't see the value in it. Either way, it was just something to see. Eventually the time came for to go, and I knew there would be a pause where he wanted money for his time. It did, and so a dollar or two later I was off. I've come to know this is how things work however, and if I wasn't prepared to do so I wouldn't have ever went over in the first place. Heading back down the path, I meet my driver and get excited about heading to the balloon.

     This is once again crashed when he tells me that it won't be going in this wind, and I start to think of something else to do. I had looked at two temples from the guide book that where really the only ones left and was going to skip, but now it seemed logical to go see them and to make Bakong the last one. He tells me that one of them, Kbal Spean is an hour away and won't budge on the fare. So with that I say maybe but only if we first go to the balloon and make sure it's not flying. He agrees, and were off....

     Upon getting there once again, I come across only a single car and assume its a no go. This is affirmed by a lady there, and I tell my driver I'll do the temples. Just as were about to go she tells me if I wait until 11am, they might give it a go since there were others waiting also. It was only fifteen minutes away so I was surely going to wait, but I couldn't believe it was only 11am! I left at 8am, the fact that only 3 hours had gone by seeing all those places kinda stunned me since I tend to take it reallyu slow at them, even if it was only 3 of them. The time flew by and a little after 11am I got the news, it was a go. Getting out, I go buy my ticket and am taken to the balloon meeting a family of 3 already inside. The cart is large, although only from the outside as the middle is cut out like a doughnut and there isn't much room in the circle you can walk inside. I take my place looking through the safety net and get ready for lift off.

    The balloon jolts really hard as it gets ready to take off, and that really throws me but at the same time gets the juices flowing. The adrenaline pumps away as we start are ascent into the sky. I take out my video camera and start recording it to remember. The best thing about it though was the zoom, giving me a great ability to see more than my eyes could from up here. The view is breathtaking, as the entire monument of Angkor Wat comes into view. Raising higher and higher, the entire moat and surrounding walls come in, and before long I can make out the entire square. People walking down the long path into the monument are in sight, they look like ants in size but so amazing to see them at all from up here. The size is monstrous and larger than anything that eyes could ever pick up on land. My vivid imagination failed miserably to picture the scale that Angkor is on. Taking it all in is so hard as so much is going on, the balloon shaking wildly from the wind. Nothing short of it falling from the sky could ruin it though, and when the descent started I wanted to grab the controls and keep it up forever.

    Back on the ground, I wish it was longer but am so glad that I was able to do it. Stepping off the cart I walk back over towards the tuk tuk and go to get in for what could be the end of my day. Looking back, I take a close up of the balloon itself, boasting a full image of Angkor on its side. Nothing, no view at all, was able to top the way I'd seen it now. Well at least not since I can't afford the helicopter ride :-P

    Back in the tuk tuk, I decide that before noon was not how far enough into the day to end my final day at the temples, and decided to go for it with the other two. He seemed shocked I actually was going to go, but he agreed and we were off.

Kbal Spean

Sitting in a mountain alongside a tributary of the Siem Rea River that carves its way through the mountains is Phnom Kbal Spean. That's it. :-) Unlike the other places, anything more will give away the surprise factor. It was created by Udayadityavarman II in the early 12th century if your interested :-P

    The drive was long along the countryside, although I noticed I had seen it all before. For the next hour or so we past all to familiar places and it didn't take to long ti realize that I was headed for Banteay Srei, or at least in that direction. So this place was even further than that, hence why the charge for going here was high. I could only hope that it was worth it. Passing Banteay Srei, another 20 minutes or so we pull into Kbal Spean, or the base of the mountain anyway. I eat lunch with my driver and chat a bit. He tells me to be back by around 3:30pm to have time for the last temple, It not even being 1pm yet, I knew the hike was going to be long. I grabbed myself a water bottle and started in. A check of the ticket later and I was off. Not even 2 minutes into my walking I knew this was going to be something as I came upon forests of trees lining my way deeper into the mountain. Roots cover the ground of the path that is just barely cleared. A very real forest feel still exists here.

     Things were happening in rapid succesion, going from trees to roots, climbing my way through the hilly ground only to come upon mountains of steep rock around  the next bend. The hill now looks like a tower of boulders fell right down crushing all the trees leaving nothing but the rocks. I make my up as fast as I can, hoping rock to rock barely having my toes touch one and moving to the next. At times it gets hairy as the feet don't grip the way they should. The vast jungle feel makes me feel like this part an Indiana Jones movie or a Tomb Raider game, only here if I slip theres no button to do a backflip onto solid ground. Eventually I hit the top, but don't really let out any sigh of relief. I was not tired as the shade actually made it cooler here, and I was loving every minute of this. What lay down the next few minutes just got my imagination going.

     To my surprise, maybe 15 minutes into the journey, I came into a clearing and thought my jungle trek was over. The clearing had some great views of the surrounding mountains, and I stopped here to drink some water and enjoy the view atop a large boulder. A few minutes later I kept moving, seeing the path heading back into the tree line.

     The walking picked up right were I left off before within a few minutes, back to rock covered ground with a touch of vines everywhere. I really liked it though, the feel was great. The path was obvious but there was no signs telling you that this is the right way, you sort of just follow what seems to be the right way. This only added to it for me, and whatever awaited me, I had already gotten enough out to this to be happy.

     This place wasn't even beginning to show me all it had to offer however, and things just kept getting better. As I made my way through rock filled hills, climbing over giant boulders and squeezing through narrow gaps, the feel of being deep into unknown jungle kept getting more and more real. I knew way back, sure, but it was just the environment. It let you drift into your mind, make you think you were lost when you knew you weren't, made you feel like it was just you against nature when you knew you weren't alone.... A few minutes later I came across the first evidence of any help along the trail. After hoping over dozens of boulders and the like, you see a small set of wooden stairs taking care of a part that rose to high for you to get by without some mini rock climbing. The most amazing part is I didn't notice it until I was almost past it. I had seen it from far away and took a photo, but was so in the zone hoping the rocks, I was halfway up the rise trying to pull myself along before looking to my right and seeing the nice easy stairs.

     After another long path, I came to a fork where the path shot off in many directions. Fortunately I say some mountains and realized there was a clearing whic h cancelled out that way as the way to go, buy I wanted to see the clearing anyway. I was wrong about the clearing, it was open yes, but what it was happened to be the edge of a cliff on the side of the mountain, and the fewer trees give way to the view and whats below if you get too eager.

     After that, the jungle really takes over. Your deep now, really deep into this mountain and although there is still that path it gets a feel like nothing else now. Vines line every inch of the ground seemingly taking over the forest, claiming it as its own. The tree cover gets thick letting in little sun making for a dark approach during midday. It's along these paths that I really jam my big toe against a vine and curse at myself for moving too fast. It's funny though, because I knew right then and there that this moment will be the one that sticks with me most from here. Not because its the best, but because pain just triggers memory to become really vivid. It's the little things that stick, they always do.

     Deeper still, vines start to take over caves and mountains of rock all the same. The feel is so raw, its simply like nothing else I've seen. I get the feeling of pure jungle, for some reason even greater than the gibbon experience when I actually was 2 hours deep in real rainforest. This was different though, somehow more real, more sense of adventure with every step. I felt at home, not in the sense that I want to live here and deal with the crawling critters that come out at night, but just a sense of peace and calm. A real feeling of being lost in the unknown, but deep down I knew I wasn't allowing me to enjoy with the panic that would accompany being really lost.

    I keep moving, stepping over stones that now are merely like flat road as I have already gotten so used to it I'm moving with grace and hoping like I had been doing it for years. After a while I pass a marker indicating how far is left to whatever I was getting nearer to. The only real mark of civilization is these markers, but it took away a bit of my buzz from the jungle feel. Things got all too jungle again however when a bit further along a few planks of wood go across a small crevice. As I go to step, a good size snake slithers out with a red ring around its neck. It doesn't give a crap that I'm there and I go by no problem, but colors on anything that slithers or crawls is never a good thing. I actually stop and watch it for a bit and while doing so an older couple coming back see what I'm doing and tell me they have tons of those back in Indonesia. I laughed and kept going. It could have been alot crazier, as one guy say a 6 foot python here, one of the yellow colored ones. Yikes! Maybe five or ten minutes later, I could hear the water. Soon after, I came upon the stream from the Siem Reap River, and was stunned by the amazing carvings that lay in the riverbed. Giant carvings of Shiva and Vishnu, some lying down, are all over the riverbed. Large carvings sit right where the water drops a little, creating massive splashing right on the carving. This was unreal, and I couldn't believe that this was here.

    As I  move further up stream, I come across pieces of stone broken of, notably a large Brahma statue with four heads. All along are hundreds of Lingas, small cylinder shape stones representing shiva and the male phalanx. As I follow the river upstream, the path gets nonexistent and I decide to turn back and head to the other side of the river back where I started.

     Back down to where I first came into the river, I work my way across to the other side where some really great views of the water going right through the carving can be had. I stared for a bit trying to imagine what this must look like during the wet season! The water was flowing hard now, but this is the rivers lowest time of year. Nontheless I watched in marvel as the water gracefully flowed over the reclining vishnu or shiva, sometimes can't tell them apart.

    After taking in the carvings there, I noticed that that path followed the river downstream a bit, so I figured why not try the other way. I soon got to a point where any recognizable path was gone and ended into a mass of rocks forming a cave. I wanted to see anyway so I squeezed by and was glad I did because the river was back in sight and I continued following it.

     The river really opens up here, slows down and really lets you see the bottom. Here, you can see why the place is called The River Of A Thousand Linga's, and nothing but them grace every inch of the riverbed. It dawns on me here that that the entire bed of this stream of water has been carved. How? Why? All the questions start racing along. Every other monument had easy meaning, and although this was a religous site aswell it just didn't add up for me. Why, all the way up here, would you carve all this into a river that almost no one will see? To me, its religion at its most primitive. I don;t know why I'm doing it, I just believe the gods want me to so I do. I leave hope that there's some great story behind it but I just can't find anything. But then again, the mystery is probably why I'm so taken with it. A massive carving of five linga's forming the all some familiar form of one in the center and four around. So many temples, even Angkor Wat follow this pattern representing the hindu universe and the center of it, Mount Meru. Interestingly here though was the yoni, a square with a opening to let water run through. It's the female version of the linga, and together shows unity and the creation of things.

    After that clearing, the rocks get all too close again and ducking and weaving through them becomes a must. Luckily I don't have much in terms of size so it doesn't take much for me to get through, but it still isn't easy. It helps though to bring back the fact that even though I'm now at an ancient pretty river full of carvings, it's in the forest and nature rules here.

    Finally getting to the roar of water I kept hearing, I reach another set of steps going down quite far into a large opening. Here, on these steps, was on of the most incredible things I've ever seen in my life. Here deep in the forest, I come into a absolute army of yellow butterflies drifting with wind. Hundreds of them converge of the steps as I walk down. I find myself directing in the middle of the surge, being pelted by yellow everywhere I looked. The beauty of this is not something I can tell you with any real success, but lovely it was. Each one drifting like flying on there own wasn't an option, I watched as if a giant had picked hundreds of yellow flowers and just blew all the petals down wind. Once I hit the bottom, I turned around to watch the spectacle which had touched me so. I would have watched longer if it weren't for the roar of water. I had walked into the base of the water fall that ends the mass of carving.

     Simply stunning, with the water flowing rapidly down the short fall through masses of vines I couldn't help but smirk and laugh inside. Nothing here is simple, and no place seems to be able to through so many marvelous punches in such rapid succession. Every turn here lead to something even more amazing than a minute before. I stayed here a bit just staring before moving further down only to realize it circled back up to the top near the cave I squeezed by to get here. So on my way back I was, but man it was lovely getting here. I'll never forget it, and I can't believe that I almost missed coming here.

     On my way back down, as if something really didn't want me to ever forget the vines and the feeling of raw jungle they gave me I slam my tow again against a vine coming out of the floor. Right in the same area, and for all I know in full blown irony it could have been the same one. But it did make the memory stick, and thats what matters. I'll take this place with me forever, and its really a shame it's so far away. This is the type of place that if close, I could come ever week or so to read a book in the shade or just come and scream when angry or upset and let nothing but the trees eat up my sorrows. I'll miss it here. But the day wasn't over, there way on last stop on my Angkor adventure left.

     Leaving Kbal Spean full of thoughts and very joyful, I had for some reason a real feel for the country as I rode by in the back of the tuk tuk. Maybe I was just in a mood where anything I passed was special, but I really was enjoying the view and decided to get snap happy. Passing by tropical trees of all kinds, small wooden huts shaded by them, the views started of great but only got better.  

     Further along, I saw a sight that really made me laugh. I have seen alot, I've seen 30 locals crammed on the roof of a van, I saw a woman on a bicycle in /champasak holding 4 ducking while stile holding the handle bars, so 4 ducks just hung upside down in the front, dead animals hanging on the backs of vehicles, even over a thousand banana's in bunches of the back of a small motorcycle strapped down. But never have I seen such an elaborate wooden cage to hold animals on the back of a motorcycle like this one. Inside was a full grown pig, and I guess when you cargo is still alive you have to get creative. This time, unlike all the others since it happens so fast, I was able to get a picture, albeit a blurry one.

     The trees really got beautiful about halfway back, with animals calmly grazing in front of them. These simple dirt roads in the back of cities here hold so much, and its amazing how much a palm tree can brighten up anything.

     Passing by small road side shops that dot almost every road in Cambodia, I get some real nice shots of daily life. Wooden stilt houses classic of SE Asia to avoid flooding in the rainy season. When you really pay attenion, it's out here on the backstreets that you can really get a glimpse into the daily lives on the average person not caught up in the tourist trade.

     Soon enough though, without even realizing it, we came upon what I sadly knew was my last stop on the Angkor Tour. Pulling off the road onto the side to let me off, I pass the kids selling there small things for however has them out here working, but it doesn't really bother me now. I have a sense of uneasy calm, a silent knowing that this is the end of it bringing on a heightened sense of awareness and nothing was getting in other than enjoying the temple.

Banteay Samre

The isolated temple city of Banteay Samre was built during the reign of Suryavarman II, the creator of Angkor Wat itself. This temple has a distant style similar to Angkor. However it's most similar to Phimai and Phnom Rung in Thailand, although more compact. Thanks to Maurice Glaize, the temple remains one of the most complete and well restored in all of Cambodia.

     Near the main entrance I get my first glimpse the structure and its outer wall. I can immediately tell by now its an outer wall and the square within a square pattern is going to follow here. making my through the tree lined paths and getting to the extremely large archway, I make my way into my final frontier.

     Once inside I can see the remnants of the older buildings that were too small th withstand the test of time. The space inside is made all the more clear by the green grass now covering every inch of the space inside. I can see the main temple poking out from within the inner walls, and like usual have the urge to head straight inside.

     I don;t however, instead choosing to start from the very outer wall, although the inside face of it and work my way around before going in further. The outer wall is absolutely gigantic, and it's not until my body is against it that I realize just how big it is. At least twice my height probably more, the outer wall stands probably 15ft high. Other walls may have been higher and probably were, but none that I have seen have survived this well or remained there full height by any means. I really admire them and am taken back by thinking how massive the walls of the other larger temples must have been. What about Angkor......

     I really had no reason to rush here and I didn't want to. This was it, and I was going to take my time. So instead of going in, I made my way to the rear and went out the outer wall. Not because I had the great idea of going back outside to look around, but because I saw a long stone causeway that caught my eye.

     It was immediately obvious when I stepped out that where I had come in was not the main entrance at all. Something I forget is that just because the modern road makes on entrance popular and funnels people through it, doesn;t mean its where the ancient Khmer intended people to come in. There are four entrances after all, but this one was amazing. While the other I came in had no walkway at all, this had a miassively long dirt and stone walkway flanked by lions and even had two tiers. As I walked along it, I noticed it actually broke off midway to the left and right with two more sets of lions flanking each direction. Although the stone stops, it's abvious that something also sat on the sides of this walkway, probably small buildings, although nothings but forest remains now....

     Heading back in, to the left I again see the massive walls I'm about to enter, but here the stone barred windows of lookout points are very well kept and create a whole different feel.

    Marching straight ahead now, I enter the inner wall which has this rather large and extremely detailed entrance to go through. A wall is never just a wall here, there always so different and entrance ways are some of the most intricate parts of the structure. Pure detail.

     Inside, I'm immediately struck by how much is in this small space. Compact is an under statement, and multiple buildings are crammed in, some connected forming an array of stone. The center forms a a long almost T shape, with an Angkor style tower being it's focal point.  Walking around, I see green spewing from all over as grass and weeds come from within the stone. I walk the maze of pathways leading around all the buildings, slowly making the rounds and seeing all it has to offer. The center is most striking with its great entrance ways and its tower, but everything in here seems like if you look at the right way could be the center. The design of every building is similar and equally well carved. I go to enter the center building and notice someone sitting by a small statue in the center of the building. I hold off going in as I don't really like dealing with the people there, was they try an hand you flowers of incense as you walk in to offer the statue then want money or something you didn't want.

    So I continue exploring the inner sanctuary and eventually find that the inner wall can be walked through on the inside. It's hollow and actually goes around the entire structure. I eventually come across an amazing stone head of one pissed of demon or lion, but its an amazing piece of stone just sitting in the center of an empty no barred window. As I eventually make my way into the center, I was a doorway leading out that just draws my eyes to it and I can't look away. I stare for a bit before shaking the trance and heading inside. I shy away politely not putting my hands any where in the open and make my way to the back. It's really dark however, and so I really can't look around much anyway. So I head out and make my way back to the space in between the walls. 

     For some reason hal way there, I realize that just like the inner wall I remembered seeing some of the outer wall that looked like it had some space as well. I couldn't believe it when I found a small part of the large outer wall where both parts where still standing. I walked down as far as I could, down the center of the outer wall feeling amazing being literally inside a 800 year old wall from on of the greatest building periods ever. I really loved it. Back in between the inner wall and outer, I made my way around the side I didn't before. Some nice flowers and bushes can be found at one entrance with some nice colors. I amke my way to the corner of the wall and look back, getting a clear image of the tower in the center surrounded by its walls. I do everything I fell I have left to before heading out through an archway one last time.

     Back at the tuk tuk, I get in with my driver wide awake and ready to go. I know it's all done now, and I'm actually not at all " Sad " just a little realistic and start thinking back on everything I've seen. There's been so much in so little time, yet I'd keep going if I could. But the way it worked was for the best, as I saw everything I wanted to and more, and aside from a few tiny places with a tower here or there, I saw just about the entire set of buildings that remain. Furhter actually I realized the I went to Wat Phu in Laos, Phnom Rung and Phimai in Thailand.... All Khmer structures from the same time, I just didn't realize the greater scale of what they were a part of until now..... As we drive back past some familiar sites already happy with how I ended the day, we drive past the sun setting over the Royal Baths across from Banteay Kdei. With a bunch of kids bathing in it under the orange ligh of the sun, I couldn't think of a more perfect sight to end the day with. Although I was a little jealous that they were in the Royal Bath!....

    So my 3 days of the Angkor Temple Complex come to a close, and its time to head back. I want to say time to move on but I really have not seen any of Siem Reap itself, the town that is, and really need a day or two to just relax. So I bid goodbye to Angkor, but not Siem Reap yet... We have a few more days together.

    Hope everyone enjoyed the Angkor journey, I really do because it took proabably the entire past two days to get it up there lol. Probably really needed maybe 8 hours to get it all down and up, but PC problems erased my almost done day 2 post twice and had to restart which really was a pain. But its all up now and hope its was great. Now to get that video from the balloon up......

    
     Waking up around 6am for my second day, I waste no time getting back into action. Get dressed, and then straight downstairs only to find the large metal gate like from a liquor store back home is across the front door. Too early I guess, but someone hears me and lets me out. A short walk to a nearby gas station I find all the tuk tuk drivers in the world waiting for a fare. This made things very easy and before I even got over one drove to me and that was that. Price was negotiated for the longer day I had planned today for a few more dollars than yesterday and we were off. A short stop for gas and then the ticket checking stop, followed by passing Angkor and the Bayon, I arrived at my first stop of the day.

Preah Khan

A buddhist university with over 1000 teachers, Preah Khan was a city with a serious buddhist temple. Built by Jayavarman VII and dedicated to his father in the late 12th century. It was one of his largest projects which is immediately felt upon entering.  Its believed to be built upon an even earlier site, which is all to common with one King glorifying someones work and calling it his own.

     Walking down the long dirt road heading towards the gate I could see in the distance, the silence lets me know its really early. The places seem all the better you have them to yourself, and gives a sense of mystery to them. Getting to the gate, I realize that this is only the outer most wall protecting the city.

     Passing through, I make my way to a small bridge over what was most likely the remains of the moat. On each side is a great number of stone statues tugging away with a snake. I remember seeing this same scene on the walls of Angkor Wat, but seeing it on a scale of stone this large is really something. Looking back, there were similar things at the entrance to Angkor Thom, even larger, just didn't really realize it at the time. I believe it represents whats called the churning of milk in hindu mythology, where Gods and Demons where tugging away trying to create the nectar for immortality. Getting closer to the gate, I notice the inner wall still stands as well, albeit with some additions from nature now as trees make there home right though them.

      Heading through the long dark corridors leading to the center, it starts to become clear just home large this is. Long and narrow the halls seem to go on forever and it reminds me of Banteay Kdei, although clearly larger. I slowly walk through until I reach a maze of temples maybe a quarter of the way in. The reliefs and carvings are wonderful, with numerous aspara's and the like covering the walls. I'm surprised that there is so much left standing given just how much there is here.

     As I reach what I could immediately tell was the focal point of the place, theres a bell shaped stupa in the center. You can split in any direction here, as there are halls leading to each of the four entrances of the outer wall in the cardinal directions. This made me realize that anyone coming in was eventually led here, given this piece great importance. I keep heading straight ahead, and eventually reach the outside. I make my way around the wall checking things out for a bit before heading back to the center and taking a left and a right to check the sides. There noticeably shorter, meaning the temple has a sort of cross shape to it.

     Somewhere along here heading back to the center, I come across a giant tree just cutting right through the stone. Its large enough to really stress that nature is in control here. As I look at it for a bit, I try and imagine just how long something like that takes to happen. Soon after I start heading out, and take a look back at one of the entrances to see the tree sticking out proudly right through the top of the temple

     Leaving, the glare of the sun tells me once again just how early it is, and that theres still so much left to do today. I wake up the driver which has become the norm, and head to my next destination. I didn't know where that was as I just told him the main places, but it seems that they've done it enough to know where to go. So before long he stops again at a place I had no idea about, but ended up being all to wonderful.

Neak Pean

Created during the reign of who else, King Jayavarman VII, this place is pure pleasure. Situated in the forest, the cross shaped structure consists of five ponds, one in each direction and one in the center. The larger center pond contains an island temple sitting in the center. Although later used as a buddhist site, the five ponds probably refer to hindu mythology. Many more ponds used to sit around the structure, but have since dried.

     
      Easily one of my favorites sites to date, walking up the tree flanked dirt road, the tower you see in the distance is very deceptive. Thinking I'm approaching another small tower like many before, not much in the realm of " wow" is expected.

     That was a mistake, as that was exactly my reaction as I passed through the clearing. The first thing you see is a semi dried square pond with the temple in the rear. The other four are in range, and my mind starts racing with ideas of what it all is. Walking around about halfway, I'm able to fully see the entire place. The four ponds on each corner with one in the center form an outstanding site. The center pond still full of water, the island temple stands out like nothing else. So much of it remain in perfect shape, and the fact that the small bridge that once made access to it is no longer standing just adds to it. Nothing can get to it now, a full blown island temple surrounded by water. A small horse shaped statue is all that remains of its one access bridge. I couldn't get enough of the island, and took many photo's before getting anything close to what I wanted.

     Completely my full walk around of the site, passing each pond looking at the carvings on each mall tower that marked the start of a new square. The urge to swim over to the tower was seriously there, No exaggeration whatsoever, I really wanted to. Something about this place really got me excited, and that really should be shocking. It's so simple compared to over sites yet just so great. I can't help my admire it. Perhaps I just am a sucker for the water and just love the island, but I was sure glad to have come here.

     Leaving, I'm full of energy having had Neak Pean be my 2nd destination of the day. Sun not even fully in the sky yet, I had really high hopes now for the rest of the day. The other places better not disappoint! :-P

Ta Som

A smaller creation of Jayavarman VII, said to be a smaller mix a Ta Prohm and Banteay Kdei, its remoteness gives it a great charm of its own or so says my guidebook :-). It's ruined state gives it what I liked most, and its small nature  with an all natural

     A short ride from Neak Pean along the main road sits Ta Som, a small temple following the outer wall and moat system. Approaching the outer gate, my face gives way to smile as the faces from The Bayon come back again on the outer wall. Once inside and entering the first wall, even though its a wall within a wall deal there isn't there crazy amount of space in between them. The small feel is apparent right away, and I enter the temple not knowing what to expect.

     Inside, one things is completely obvious. There is a hell of alot of stone laying everywhere, and this place is very much in a state of ruin. What isn't so obvious until you look around is just how great that makes the place!. Piles of stones everywhere sit at the bottom of walls and towers. Hoping over piles, I find myself working through the clusters and mazes of inner halls and trying to find some hidden corners to dive into. The walls are very elaborate here, and the best work can be found in the piles sitting at your feet. I find myself looking down more than up, picking through thousands of pieces with my eyes, marveling at the work.

     Stepping outside through one of the side entryways, I find a rather odd piece with really nice detail. I've seen enough to know that its the top arch of a doorway, but why its sitting straight up out in between the sets of walls was beyond me.

     I walk around from the outside to the other side of the temple as if I went straight through from where I originally entered and started my way back. Passing more towers, and yet even more rubble, I really get a nice feel of the place. What baffles me the most is the size though. It is really small, but the mass of stone if everywhere. Sure it is all probably from a few walls and maybe a tower, but looking around its hard to see where in the world you could of fit in all in.

     Back down the road to the tuk tuk, I get settled in again with the impression that I'm on my way to a place an hours drive away. But that wasn't to be yet, as not even a few minutes later we pull into another complex that was very large and could be seen straight away.

    East Mebon

Built by Rajendravarman, East Mebon sits in the enormous east baray, a place used to supply water to the nearby towns and held up to 55 million cubic meters of water. There was a baray on each side of the main Angkor Wat site, with the west baray only accessible by boat and still very much filled with water. An interesting aspect of this " temple mountain " is that its height is deceiving. At the time it was created it was an island. completely surrounded by the easy baray. Hence why there are no outer walls or moats, as the island nature on it did the job just fine.

     The road leading here is exactly where the temple is now, and I'm let off directly in front of it. The entire temple comes into view straight away, but I know better than to think that means the top is any less spectacular. I start the climb up to the first tier which is helped along by wooden stairs. Upon hitting the first, I notice the elephants that are all four corners of the tiers looking away at the view from the temple. There really quite stunning, made all the more interesting by the contrast in light by the sun overhead. The one to left is shaded with a cool texture, while to the right the sun shines heavy, giving it an all to silver glare.

     The second tier remains much the same as the first, but I spend some time walking around both partly to get a feel of it before ascending higher. The final tier can be seen before you actually make the final steps, and its really impressive. Following a pattern I've seen before at Ta Keo and to a lesser extent Angkor Wat with the five temples, one dead center, I start to realize I'm getting a feel of how things work and how there are certain styles for certain purposes. Places with a city involved are generally much more flat and have large outer walls, while mainly religious sites are mountain temples in a pyramid structure. Of coarse this isn't always followed and I could be dead wrong, but I was happy thinking it was correct.

     The final tier is wide open, giving a really nice feel. At times looking down I feel like its Mel Gibsons " Apocalypto ", but wrong place and wrong era. I take some time to look at all the towers, each flanked by its lions guarding the way. Peaking in at the smaller ones before making my way into the center, I've taken back by the hole in the center of the largest towers top. Inside, a beam of light comes down, and I look up as if about to be lifted away at the top of the ceiling in an all to celestial way.

     Stepping out and taking photo's of the tower, I've really excited by being up here and the layout just really invites you to take your time and enjoy being here. Eventually though you have to head down and so I do, but with the knowledge that theres more to come.

     I think my driver was actually awake this time but that could be my memory playing tricks on me. Either way, we were off for an hours drive to a temple I had read about and was very excited about going to see.

Banteay Srei

The small temple built during the reign of Rajendravarman is said by many to be the most beautiful temple in all of Angkor. It's name, translating to " Citadel of Women " or " Citadel of Beauty ", the beauty is certainly lived up to. Unlike most other temples in Angkor, it was not a Royal temple and actually built by one of the kings counselors. Nevertheless it was surrounded by a small city and remains on of the greatest temples in Angkor.

     Passing some really great scenery and real rural cambodia, after an hour or so the very large parking lot for Banteay Srei comes into view. It shocked me at first, but thats what happens when something really great becomes well known. I was actually glad at first because this obviously meant that it was a great place. However this soon comes with the realization that this small temple is going to be absolutely packed with people. As I make my way through the numerous stalls I'm pestered by the all too common child sellers trying to peddle anything from scarfs to metal figures for a dollar or so. I really don't it since it obviously modern day slavery and buying is never going to happen. People stop buying, eventually the kids will stop being sent out. The teenagers and adults are even more annoying but on a different level, at least they make up there own minds. Almost to the walkway to the temple after a short " Exhibition " which was just some writing and pictures on poster boards I get hit with some teenage book sellers. Now I had looked into a book on Angkor before and got the price down alot but didn't end up taking it. So I made the mistake of eye contact and then came the " Only $1 " until you show interest then the real price of $11 comes out. I laugh and keep walking.

     Making it down the long causeway leading up to the out wall and moat, I get to the entryway and am stunned by what I see. Reddish, maybe even pink at times stone is all that everything here is made of. Then on top of that is the most intricate carving I have ever seen on any monument to date. The detail is stunning and almost perfectly preserved, although at times restoration is clear. Everything from the pillars, the doorway, the lintels that sit over head as you enter etc. Every little thing is carved with the utmost care. I take way to many photo's trying to zoom in and really get the detail in, using it almost like a microscope.

     Just after the outer wall, the long walkway flanked by pillars which show that there were once buildings lining the way, I start to see just how many people are here. Most are Japanese tour groups and there guides, but there are a steady trickle of other visitors around as well.

    About halfway down the walkway, you can take a left or right to go to the side entrance ways and walk around the moat. I went to one side and was able to get a great view of the inner site before actually being there. I chose not to go out the side and instead to go straight through and walk the outside on the way back. Getting to the entrance to the inner temple, more carvings strike me and take my breath away. The fact that this place had little significance in the greater scheme of the Khmer empire baffles me. It's just so stunning.....

     The inner temple has a sort of T shape to the buildings, culminating with 3 large towers side by side forming the top of the T. The wall surrounding it is still square however, so walking around is quite was with a good amount of room. The detail also hits its prime here, and I find my favorite piece over the top of an entryway to one of the towers. The scheme depicts a battle with what I believe to be Brahma with multiple heads, and various animals and warriors all going at it. Small beasts line the entryways all models from restoration and not originals, but give you the sense of what it was like to have them there. The main temples are stunning but everything here is outdone by the color, and most of all the carvings and stonework.

     Heading out and walking around from the outer wall. I'm amazed at the place and take it all in thinking about it on the way back. It's completely different from anything else I've seen here and that's a good thing for sure. Maybe they should let helpers of the Kings build things more often! Or maybe they did and none ever get left standing, but due to the expense of building one, I'd say you had to be in pretty good royal favor to afford it.

     Getting back to the lot, I go past the same guy selling Angkor Guide books, and he immediately comes right over to me. Even his original $11 is a steal since these are not copies by the real deal, with glossy pages and full of photo's, with the actual ISBN on the back selling at $27.95. How these books get to these people is obviously questionable but so is so much else. I pass him by and sit down to eat somewhere after bartering a bit. He leaves telling me his final price is $4, and I let him walk away. I was going to go find him after I ate and buy it, but letting him go assured my $4 price.  How they can make anything is beyond me unless there completely stolen, because this same book sells for over $30 in the tourist book stores. but even that seems unlikely because they have so many of them. who knows.....

Pre Rup

The temple mountain of Pre Rup was built by Rajendravarman, and sits within what was once the east baray. With multiple tiers going up a mountain, the place has a powerful presence. Noticeably missing however its its outer walls and remnants of the city that surrounded it like all state temples. Made the state temple under Rajendravarman after moving his capital from Angkor. Many kings move the capital of the empire, but it seem with the Khmer it was throwing a ball. Every other king had his own idea of where the capital should be, and so it moved....

    Much like East Mebon, the main road sits parallel to the temple and the tuk tuk drops you in front while he then goes and parks across the road with all the stalls and sellers. Pre Rup immediately reminded me of East Mebon in so many ways. And it made me feel good to find out through my new handy little guide book that they date to the same time, and built by the same King, Rajendravarman. Having the book is great for reference, but the real reason I got it was to read through it front to back on my spare time and really learn about everything. Pulling it out every time I'm at a sight just would annoy me. It's actually why I skipped getting a guide for the days, because theres no OFF button on them. When I want to move I move, if I had to listen to a guy explain every little thing I'd go crazy, and I'm not bold enough to tell him so.

    The temple is, again like Mebon, easily visible even from the bottom. I'm glad actually when I see it, because I enjoyed East Mebon greatly and if this was similar I'd like it too. One thing that was noticeably different is the 6 giant towers that sit directly behind the entrance wall, 3 on each side. It seemed so odd to me for these massive towers to be one the ground level instead of the top. This was something I had not seen before. Only 5 of the 6 are standing, and my trusty book says that actually one seems to never have been completed.

     Heading through the first 2 sets of walls, I spend some time walking around the lower ground level, looking at sets of pillars in neat rectangles that allows you to see they were once small buildings. Before long I head up a level and then another looking around. One thing thats really nice is that the height of each tier is great enough that you can see clearly the entire tier system and exactly how it all comes together.

     Looking up after being satisfied with my lower level exploring, I see the final set of steps looking up to the final tier. Again, I just picture decapatated heads rolling down. Theres something all too mayan about them to me, but I admit thats probably because thats the only other thing I know off that resembles this. The mind sees what it wants to see I guess.

    At the top, the place had a feel that was like East Mebon, but it wasn't as well preserved or a little more cluttered, whatever it was there was something better about the latter. There were some excellent carvings of the towers however and the views of the entire complex from here were terrific. Every place seems to have a unique plus that makes it stand out. Not to say there aren't negatives to each, but its the different positives that make each its own.

     Heading out and finding the driver, trucking though all the kids selling things and all the adults from the stalls screaming " Sir, you buy cold drink! - You want water Sir! ". Of coarse you need water so at some you have to, but at times you feel like letting yourself dehydrate rather than have to admit defeat and walk over to the yelling....

     Heading from Pre Rup, I had every intention of going over Angkor by balloon, so I figured why not stop by and give it another go, one with no time limits. So a few minutes drive later I was back, parked, and walking toward the great gate and into the hindu universe. Getting into view of the center towers of Angkor, this time was different already. No fog, not hot sun, just me and the monument. The tarps didn't matter and when I looked through my lens I saw a grand monument, this is how it was when I was here and this is how I want to remember it.

     Walking past the flanking palm trees that add some much to the walkway and the pictures, I make it inside the main wall and start my walk around the entire outer wall before even stepping foot inside. I was going for it this time, now matter how long it took I was going to see it all and give it the time it deserved.

     Having entered from the west causeway, I travel around and make my way to the northern side where I'm able to take some grand photos with no evidence of restoration. The towers look stunning coming over the walls, and this view was perfect for me. Before I had time to get all dreamy over it, A few monks sitting on the steps call me over to practice there English I believe. It gets really interesting from here.

     Walking up to them, they all introduce themselves, telling me there all visiting like me from elsewhere. I get all the same questions I had other young monks who most likely never asked to be a monk and started very young. Where am I from, how old am I etc are all asked quickly. I do some small chatting and laughing, but then a girl from California came over and then it got too interesting. Then they all went to her for chatting, had her take pictures which was great because they all wiped out there cell phones lol. When they started asking her the boyfriend questions it got uncomfortable for her but I couldn't help laugh. One even asked for her phone number. Eventually though we said our goodbyes and they laughed and probably talked about us in Khmer while we walked away. She walked with me and chatted until the other side where I went in and she kept going.

     Inside again, I marveled looking up at the five towers that were not to long ago so far away. the inside square is lined with so much detail, and many asparas that have come to be the best detail on almost every temple

     Having walked around the inner square wishing I could go to the top, I head into the middle level to explore the wall carvings all the way around. This time, I actually had a knowledge of what was happening, and it turns out I was right about the churning of milk back at the bridge with statues pulling the snake. All the walls tell hindu mythology stories, although none as entertaining to me as the one or getting immortality.  Walking down that wall, seeing close to a hundred gods and demons pulling just like at the bridge, I really love this carving and take it all in.

     I work my way around the entire structure taking probably a half hour just looking the walls, but its worth it. When I made my way back to the entrance I came in, looking back at the path leading out of here, I can feel the sense of accomplishment and have really viewed the place this time. Angkor was truly a great thing and very glad I came back. You can't rush it here, and it was almost a huge lose for me it would have been if I didn't come back and do it right. Leaving, I look for the center of the doorway at the moat on each side, and admit to myself again that I really do love anything ancient that has water involved. It just adds so much to the overall picture.

     I say my goodbyes and head back into town, taking in Angkor for one last time. Leaving. I headed for the balloon place and was really bummed when we pulled into an empty parking lot. The weather, well really the wind was not cooperating and it wasn't going to happen today. I was down, but really only in a OK fine I'll do it tomorrow sort of way. So back to town it was....

      Getting back into town around 3pm, I really was a little bummed about the balloon and wanted something to do for the evening. I walked around for a while, then asked where I could find the KFC, the third one in cambodia and only built in 2008 I believe. I walked for a bit down one main road before finding it, I had gotten directions rom a tuk tuk driver before setting out. lol, I wanted another Cheezy Chickaroni! After eating, I walked past a tuk tuk who turned out to be the one who gave me directions, and he started some small talk. I asked him about the museum and after him telling me about it I decided to go. When I had heard about it before, I had no desire to go mostly because of the $12 ticket price. But I'd winged worse than this, and I already paid for the ride. Upon arriving, you notice immediately just how new the place is. It's really nice looking, with valet and guards to boot. I get out, enter, and the first thing I notice is the bag check followed by the lobby. It's so professional inside I had no problem leaving my bag in the locker and getting a card for the return. The lobby looked like that of a 5 star hotel from the movies, and I was just so impressed. I have been to a few very nice museums in NY and Boston, notably the MFA, but they are in comparison nothing to this looks wise. Of coarse I hadn't seen any exibitions yet lol.

     Buying my ticket, I grab one of the free maps showing all the exhibition rooms. I'm directed to throw away my drink nicely and then to head up stairs. Going up a wonderful winding staircase, I notice a large indoor fountain/pool by one of the exhibitions.

     Entering my first door with a sign labeled " Briefing Room", I walk into what is basically a large movie theater and sit down to watch a short film on the museum and what I was to see here. There was a Japanese family already there, and had programmed it for Japanese but the subtitles were fine or me. About 10 minutes later we all move on, but I'm just so impressed already. Entering the first gallery called the gallery of 1000 buddha images, my jaw almost drops literally. Maroon carpets accent the reddish brown walls each with arch shaped indents all over casing hundreds of small buddha images. The center has galleries in glass of all types of buddha's, clearly labeled by century, period, and a brief description. I slowly walk around camera away and arms folded, but man I wish I could have taken pictures here. As I enter gallery two, filled with everything Khmer dating before the Angkor period and basically anything from 600 BCE to 900 BCE. Everything is fully cased and the walls are more decorated than any other museum I'd seen. As you walk into the gallery and see the pieces, a huge wall is dedicated to telling you everything you need to know about the room your in. I read all about the pre-Angkor Khmer, how there only known from ancient Chinese sources and if it wasn't for visitors early history of the people may never have been known. All the galleries from here on go further ahead in time in chronological order, which is just perfect. After going over all the ancient Vishnu statues and learning about the older peoples, I move on to the next room.

     The religion gallery is next, which through its movie and walls tell the entire scheme of how things went from God-King worship along with Brahmanism and Hinduism, up to Buddhism after King Jayavarman VII. Here the rooms are filled with numerous statues of Vishnu, Brahma, and Shiva. One of the best things about the gallery was its full explanation of what the gods mean to those who worship them, as well as the details that may be wanted by experts, like there wives. After feeding my brain here, I move on to the Khmer Kings room, where the walls tell everything that was missing for me. How each king built his own temple cities to his own style. hence why there are so many types, along with there capitals etc. The person behind the King is also revealed, and I was all too pleased to learn that my buddy Jayavarman was a man of the people, inscribing " The suffering of my people is my own " onto many buildings. This is what was missing or me, and I was at this point more than happy I came. Hell at this point I feel the tickets are undercharged, but don;t tell them that.

    The next sets of galleries were Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, Inscriptions, and my favorite of these the costume gallery with illustrated dress as well as a full statue of someone in the type of dress depicted. Century by century, decade by decade, it outlines the exact type of clothing that was worn by the people and the royalty. I really loved this place, and so when the last room was the over expensive souvenir room, I actually gave it a look and to my surprise there was no pressure to buy. Not only would I recommend others to come, If I was ever back I'd go again myself. Leaving, I grab my bag and head out the door hoping the tuk tuk driver was waiting but he wasn't, so a short walk for me it was. The sign outside, The Legend Revealed, is all to clear to me now. All the puzzle pieces are put together in a perfect way. If I had gone before I had seen anything and couldn't compare, it wouldn't have been the same. For me, it was the prefect time.

     On my walk home, I passed the infamous traffic signals and took some photo's. Still hard to believe they get these for having one of the most road safety records in the world....

    
     The first of three, today marks day 1 of what are definitely three of the greatest days in my life. Visiting Angkor has been at the top of my list ever since seeing pictures of things like National Geographic, although at the time I never thought I'd ever be here. To Angkor, for all its buildings, all its glory, and all it has given me.

Angkor Wat

Built during the reign of King Suryavarman II in the early 12th century, Angkor Wat stands out as the single largest religious monument in the world. Angkor Wat besides being a mausoleum for it's builder and a temple to vishnu is a fully realized micro version of the hindu universe with the five towers respresenting Mount Meru. As Travelfish puts it "  Like all temple mountains, Angkor Wat is a model of the divine — playing out Hindu mythology in both its construction and spectacular bas reliefs. At the centre of the Hindu (and Buddhist) universe sits Mount Meru, a holy peak some 750,000km high on the mythical continent Jambudvipa...... In walking across Angkor's naga bridge and entering the complex, you are traversing the ocean from the real world to that of the gods — stepping from continent to continent and then scaling a peak some 750,000km high — there's no escalator. "

     Getting up bright and early, alarm going off before the sun was even up, I got ready and went downstairs to meet my young driver at 7am. I had arranged yesterday with the guesthouse for a tuk tuk for the entire day, or roughly until sunset for $10. Seriously can't beat that, you really can't. Really excited, I wait with anticipation for my arrival at the world's largest religious monument. But before all the good stuff we pull into a turn off near the main road where all cars heading in the Angkor direction with a foreigner must go through. It acts as a checkpoint and a ticket buying place, and it was both for me today. After a short wait in the wrong line, I moved my way over to the line for the 3-day pass. After a short wait I got my photo taken and $40 later had my picture ticket for the next 3 days. The price is called steep by so many, but it's actually less than my usual sight-seeing budget when you spread it over the 3 days. Not to mention your seeing a complex of dozens of monuments, including the worlds biggest. While Angkor Wat itself is the main attraction, the remains of an entire empire site within Siem Reap. Dozens of giant walled temple cities all linked buy roads once formed the connected cities of the Khmer Empire. Thinking about it, I wasn't even sure 3 days was enough, but it was going to have to be. A whole punch in my ticket by the guard later, I was off to Angkor Wat. Approaching, I could see the start of the moat and outer wall, both of which are miles long on all sides forming a giant square around the entire structure. It's immediately obvious your dealing with sizes you haven't seen ever before. You can't get everything in your eyesight at once, and your not even inside yet.

       Parking near all the food and souvenir stalls across from the main walkway, I try and remember where the driver is for when I come back and then I'm off. Walking down the long causeway I can't hold back the rush of excitement. Getting to the outer wall and main gate, I look around while on the steps and take in the vast expanse of the moat on both sides. It seems to go on forever, and for as far as my eyes can tell, it does.

      Through the gate, I get my first glimpse of Angkor Wat. Stunning, even from the massive distance you can tell your dealing with something legendary. However, it is somewhat ruined by the fact that there is a large green tarp over the front stairs, a sure sign that some restoration is underway. Now I now it's selfish to feel that it shouldn't be there due to the fact that it's being done to preserve the place for all time, but I did at the time. It of coarse doesn't take away from where I was, and I kept on moving with curiosity. I passed some small temples about halfway on each side of the pathway, along with some very large pools of water. I believe them to be whats left of reservoirs used to supply water to the complex. Now there filled with pink lotus flowers, and are truly truly beautiful. Arriving at the main gate, entering the first level of the complex, I turn around and take it just how much I'd passed before even entering the actual temple. It's really incredible, as from the start I'd probably done  a little over half a mile, and all space is just the outside. The classic set up for a Khmer temple is a pyramid like scheme in a giant square, where each section is walled off, a wall within a wall, getting slowly higher each level. Think of placing a book on the table, then placing progressively smaller books on top each side an inch smaller every time. It creates a truly impenetrable place, not even counting the moat.

      Inside, I pass some small pathways with some carvings, but nothing can ever compare to the halls I came upon just a little down my first turn. These walls line the entire way around the first level, literally miles of carving, every wall telling a different story. I walk slowly down two of the four sides, trying to decipher the meaning of the Hindu mythology. The detail is just so amazing, it really takes a while to get it all in. Chariots crushing solders, hundreds of warriors lining every inch of the bottom layer...

     Moving deeper inside, The second tier seems to be calling me so I keep on going. As you enter each successive level, the wide open area in between the sets of walls reveals itself. I look to both sides, taking in the area. To one side, I watch people climb a small tower and sit down resting from the heat. Before long I myself was headed up the stairs to my final tier. Looking back, the view from the gate that I came through was great, and I could really see a great amount of the monument from my new height.

      Though not technically the final tier, it is for me since the last one is off limits due to the deterioration it would cause and the work being done. But looking up, past the birds perched on the stone, it was quite a sight to see the grand towers. Something just wasn't right though, I wasn't sure whether the sun was causing things to be hazy, whether the restoration ruined my mood too much etc. I just didn't feel like I was appreciating the place enough.

     Moving on, walking around the tier, I was really taken away with the detailed carvings that where on about every inch of the walls going all the way around. Very large, they were heavenly dancers called Aspara's. I saw things like this throughout the entire place, and the detail of the dancers was just stunning.

      Exiting on the opposite side of where I came in, I started down the halls the other way and continued to see more of the fantastic halls of carvings. This wall was all the more preserved, with shiny black stone at parts looking like it was just polished yesterday. Men standing on elephants fully in battle really take it away, being larger than anything else on the wall. I hear a guide tell a tour group that the reason its shiny is because its staying polished from visitors wanting to feel how smooth it is. Even though your not supposed to touch anything, thousands of slight rubs by visitors every week could polish it I guess! lol.    

     Looking back on the way out of the tier, I get a really great glimpse of the towers of Angkor just over the walls. It was great, but there the size of the place really means that inside you can't get any real idea of the size due to the fact that its just too massive to fit in your eyes all at once. I made my way outside to try for the all encompassing shot from far away. Getting out there however, the first thing I got was metal and pulleys from more restoration. Again, I let out a sigh, but it's not about me in the end, it's about future generations having this place to come to and that I must respect.

      Walking around about half the entire outside, lol, which is still technically the inside, just the outside of the inner wall. Confusing, but all too true. I get about halfway when I see a really nice shot that gets in the main parts all together, although to really get the vast structure in full view, I think you'd need to take the $90 helicopter ride that I've never heard of anyone taking. All the same, I really got a good portion in here which really made for a great way to the view the place.

      Backtracking and heading out, through hallways, temples, walls full of carvings etc, I eventually make my way back to the main walkway leading out of the structure. Then I saw it and knew that's what I had to do. The hot air balloon. It didn't take me long to find out it was $15 a person to go up 200m over Angkor. It was happening, I didn't know when or what day, but it was happening. And when it did, I was coming back here and going over every inch of the place. Today I just have too many places to go to spend 2 hours here, but the other days will be far less hactic. I'll be back here.

      To give you a full understanding of just how big things really are, as well as the set of most of the angkor cities, here is a stock photo from Wikipedia. I'm going to get some photo's like this rom the balloon, I just have to!

      Back down to the tuk tuk mafia of hundreds of parked rides, I find my driver and wake him up from a dead sleep in the back of the tuk tuk. I didn't understand why he didn't come in. Every temple in Angkor is free for Cambodians anyway.... But soon enough we were off, and I was hoping that everywhere I wanted to go we actually would since I couldn't communicate with him. I had to hope my middle man got all the info passed on right, so I knew it might get interesting....

Built much earlier than Angkor in the early 10th century during the reign of King Yasovarman I, it was the state temple of the first city at Angkor. The multi terrace pyramid like temple of ascending squares, surrounded by smaller towers.

      Fortunately this guy knew where he was going, and since I was probably following a trail many before had taken I should have known it would be OK. But then again you never can be too careful here, anything can happen. The next stop was actually an extra, basically one I had no idea about. Approaching the mountain, I see a set of steps going straight up and it looks like a 2 minute thing. To bad that all the steps are off limits until steps can be put in to avoid ruining the actual steps. So a long twisting dirt road winds it's way up the mountain and turning the climb into about 15 minutes.

      Passing men coming down with wheel barrels full of material, it was obvious work was being done here as well. But at the same time, it made me feel good that Cambodia was doing what it takes to keep the monuments in good shape, even if it is with the help of many other countries money. Actually in the case of bakheng, the state temple of the first capital of Angkor, its not really keeping it the same as it is putting it back together for the first time. the majority of the place is rubble of the ground and being restored from the ground up. Luckily, there is still some really nice towers that have withstood the test of time. Lined up in rows each getting slightly taller, you can just imagine what it must have looked like when all the towers where fully there.

     Getting near the stairs, I'm greeted with the all too familiar lions that guard the entrance to the temples. The detail on them is great and there slowly becoming an attraction of there own. I walk the circle of the place, by a large cow statue letting me know once again that the Khmer practiced Brahmanism for the majority of time mixed with God-king worship until Buddhism pushed it all aside in the 1200's.

    Eventually making my way toward the steps heading done, I get a great look ot the 3 tiers that get very much higher each time with quite a few steps, and can only imagine he height and just how many tiers are actually missing.

      Getting down, I pass the hordes of stalls of the other side, everyone selling water and " cold drinks " which they scream that you want whether you do or not. I find my driver asleep again which really doesn't bother me since he jumps right back into action when I get there. Back on the road to Angkor

Angkor Thom

One of the largest cities ever built during by the Khmer, Angkor Thom was founded by arguably the greatest of all Khmer Kings, Jayavarman VII. It was his capital and remained that way for the most part until the 17th century. The city is said to have held over 1 million people at the time, with each of its four outer most walls being just under 2 miles with an equally large moat. The city contains some of Angkor greatest sites, such as The Bayon and all its surrounds. Things only continued to grow as successive Kings each added more and more to the city, helping to make it on of Khmer largest ever cities.

Angkor Thom - The Bayon

The Bayon was the state temple of King Jayavarman VII, and many scholars actually think the faces depict him as a God-King. There were originally 49 towers, now only 37 remain standing creating the enormous mountain peak of towers. The site has gone through numerous changes as it went from a Hindu place of worship to a Buddhist one, and is noticeable in the carvings and statues. The four faces on most towers face the cardinal directions, and are possibly the greatest site in all of Angkor.

     As the ride began to Angkor Thom, I really had been impressed but not to the extent that I though I would be here. That all changed here, and without too much of a spoiler continued to do so for the next day and half and counting. But nothing, and I mean nothing prepared me for what lay in store for me here. Angkor Thom was the largest city in the Khmer Kingdom, housing over a million people by some estimates. It's size and special place in the kingdom is shown by the fact that it remained capitol for almost 500 years in a kingdom where the capital changed as often as the king. The entire place is walled in, miles of wall surround a complex of many many places. My first stop, and it would have been my last if I didn't have other places to go, was the direct center of Angkor Thom, The Bayon. As we enter the Large gate, I get my first glimpse of whats to come. A giant head sits atop the gate, one acing in every direction. The face just screams attenion, and I find myself staring it down looking backwards as we pass. The road leading up to and past the gate is off a massive number of gods and demons holding a giant snake. The heads are white and are obviously added on through restoration, but they complete the feel of it and was glad they were there.

      Arrival happens fast, and before I really know it I find myself looking up at a massive tower of faces for the first time. I can see in the distance the multiple towers standing in every direction. There are 48 or 49 remaining out of the original 54 which is damn impressive given the time thats past, and I was going to check out every single one.

      Entering, I make my way through the narrow not so well lit halls, pretty much making a B ling for the center. I now better than to do this and theres just alot you can miss, but I was drawn, a man on a mission with full blown tunnel vision going straight for the goal. Passing through the first tier, halfway up the steps I turned to the the towers sticking out, and a clear view of the roof to come.

      And then it all hits me, as your my comes out from below into a see of faces all made of stone. The towers are in every direction and I'm not sure which way to look, head spinning in every direction. I'm amazed, and am truly inspired by what I see. There are alot of people here, but most stay in one single section that has some popular views or go inside for some self photo's. It was easy to get some area's to myself, and I just snapped away. I mean I really snapped away, a few hundred pictures maybe, and that's a rough guess. I passed some amazing aspara's on the walls which I really have grown to love, along with an amazing face with nothing but the lips left at the top of the highest tower. Looking up creates a feeling of being overwhelmed, the towering mountain of towers overhead just fills you with joy. Nothing like it will probably ever be seen by me again, and I really wanted to enjoy every bit of it.

      I made my way back to the center where all the Japanese tourists where taking photo's of each other. Totally of topic, but I really admire the Japanese in some ways since I'm been away. Every place you go, theres a giant Japanese tour group waiting to pounce on it. They travel in large families all taking photo's of each other, spending an hour at one spot if it means everyone gets that picture. No one else can fulfill the tourist role better that the Japanese from what I've seen. They just do it so well. Back on track, When a family was done with there photo's I asked for one which I rarely do but I loved this place. He did a great job he really did....

      Another frenzy of photo taking began as I did a full circle around the entire tier, just admiring all the faces. Every one has exactly the same facially as if all being the same person, but all where in different condition, color, size etc. It really made each one unique and special. Historians believe the faces are that of the creator of Angkor Thom King Jayavarman VII depicted as a God-King. Right about now, and even more after I saw his other creations, I loved Jayavarman. The Bayon has really made a mark on me, and I'll never forget it. If I ever do, I'll be on the next flight here to cram it right back in.

     Making my way back down to the bottom to continue my journey, I turned around at the bottom to see the set again. I knew I'd be back here aswell, it was just that good.

Angkor Thom - Baphuon and The Royal Palace

If the main tower were still standing, the mountain temple of Baphuon would be by far Angkors tallest monument. Its site is enormous, with the temple itself walled in a square following typical style being created in the 11th century. Its present state however makes it hard to see in anyway its former glory. The five tower structure is currently under heavy restoration, although due to be done in 2002, 2010 is here is the work is far from over.

The Palace was created by King Suryavarman I and used by the Kings of Angkor Thom from the 11th century to the 16th century. The large ponds that surround it give it a very nice touch, although the palace itself has not much left standing. Still, theres enough there to make you realize just how good it was to be king.

     I wasn't actually leaving anywhere yet, since anywhere I was going was still within the giant walls of Angkor Thom. But I made my way walking over to the nearby temple of Baphuon without really knowing what to expect. Walking down the long causeway, I notice the large pools of water on each side that are all but dried up, but add a nice touch due to the fact that you can imagine them in there glory.

      The place is under the heaviest restoration that I've seen, with the walkway pretty much ending you time here as everything is roped off. There are men and women all over it doing some kind of work, even a small crane is in on the action.

      It really was no big deal, although I'd be very interested to see it when it's restored, or even better have seen this massive five story pyramid like temple when it was in it's prime. If it hadn't fallen it would easily be the tallest structure in the entire Angkor Complex. But what it is now is a shadow of its former self, so I was off rather quickly. The other side of the temple which leads to the royal palace, or what remains of it, has some interesting stalls along the way. Painters and artists line the way selling there work, and it being SE Asia I would have guessed all the work re-prints. I would have been wrong, since more than once I saw someone drawing a new piece about halfway done, and it really was stunning. I hadn't seen any actual painting being done, but they all did look original and amazing. The ones of Angkor where especially stunning, and due to the fact that you being near the paintings and even listening to the sales pitch is a get out of jail free card, I was able to take some really nice shots of them. I actually did see one guy buy one for $35, and it was huge. I mean it would easily take up an entire living room wall back home.

     Walking past the stalls and into the forest which for the first time in Angkor Thom gives me the real appreciation of just how much space is enclosed here. I find the old Royal Palace which is a multi tiered stone building bear some large bodies of water. Some nice stone lions line the entrance way, and although the stairs look easy for some reason I don't go up this one. I had no reason, just didn't, and I guess it's a little late to look back now. I walked through the forest, following the wall that was semi over taken by trees hoping to stumble upon some more places. What I found was wall, more wall, and even more wall followed by a gate of two. I went through one of the gates and walked for quite some time.

Angkor Thom -  Elephant Terrace

At the heart of Angkor Thom sits the Elephant Terrace, created during the reign of Jayavarman VII and used for Royal reception pavilions. The sheer number of elephants that line its walls give its recognizable name today.

      The forest was thick here, most likely the remnants of where the wooden residences would have been long ago for the people who lived here. I eventually made it out of the complex to road, albeit the very very wrong side. The complex walls are maybe 2 miles long at this point, and I had gotten myself to a point where I had to walk down all the way, then turn at the corner to get to the other side of this giant square. This would have been brutal due to the face that after 10 minutes it still looked just as far away in front of me, however a very nice woman picked me up of here moto and gave me a ride to the start of the road I could find my driver on. This worked out however, because it gave me the chance to explore The Terrace of Elephants. A long long semi elevated platform in front of the wall with hundreds of images of elephants. Some craved in the walls, some full blown statues etc. As I followed the terrace, I really was glad I stumbled upon it and was quite impressed with the white elephant statues.

     After some time, the terrace changes form into Garuda's half bird half men things from hindu mythology. After this, on the other side of the road, I notice some small solo temples that don't even make me blink anymore. I think I took a picture still looking ahead of me, just the camera facing left. Eventually I made it back to where the vehicles where parked, and got some water from an all to pushy water salesman. To have to be so intense to sell water in 90+ heat seems strange, but with 1000+ people selling the same thing, if you don't no will chose you to buy from. After I ate some overpriced rice that was just bad but it can't all be good. The driver this time was having some snacks of his own with a young girl when I got back, and I felt worse breaking up his date that his sleep lol. He sure knows how to make good use of time though....

Ta Keo

Built during the 10th/11th centuries by King Jayavarman V, its of the same style as Bakheng but with differences. Most notably is that its bare. The work actually stopped before the carvings were complete, giving its unique sandstone material a bare appearance. At the top sit five towers, one in each corner and one in the center, probably representing mount meru not unlike Angkor Wat.

      Next up on my list, or the drivers list, was Ta Keo. A large temple mountain, I was impressed right of the bat from the elegance of it. Its large, sitting about 22m or 70-80ft high, but the mountain its on on makes its look easily 3 times that. A 3 tier temple, it gets progressively taller as you go up, this time thats very easily seen from the top. As I enter the front, you can make out the entire structure straight away, giving me some real hope for the rest.

     It was a great monument, and the first of it's kind for me to be so massive yet really undecorated. It was rather plain by the standard, but I just really liked it. It was also the first of this type I was actually able to appreciate, with Bakheng and Baphuon not as accessible. This time I was able to get up close to the five towers and really enjoy it all, but first I had to get up there. Stopping at the 2nd tier for a look around, I did some walking trying to take it all in before heading to the top. From the highest point, the views of the surrounding area are fantastic as well the entire temple.

      Looking at the main peak sitting center at the top, I can't help but feel small. As I make my way back down, I am stuck thinking about the vast expanse of places here and all the history behind it. All that I've seen already has been so amazing, the ancient Khmer were serious builders and really for all this to still be here stuns me. After I make my way back to the driver, he tells me were off to Ta Prohm, a place I'd been looking forward to after hearing it was still mostly covered by the tree's that naturally overcame it over the years and not cleared like the others. Also parts of the Tomb Raider movie were filmed there! Heading out, I once again leave through one of my favorite sites, the four faced gates looking in all directions.

Ta Prohm

A large temple monastery for Jayavarman VII, Ta Prohm remains an amazing site. Trees ravage the site, vines straight through temple walls as a testament to natures power. The state of ruin leaves things rather hard to navigate creating a temple maze which only adds to the sites romance.

      Arriving at Ta Prohm, the entrance is like many of the others, but upon entering you can start to the see the difference. Trees are everywhere and right after entering you can see a rather large one growing straight through the wall surrounding the place.  

     Further in, there are loads of people having there picture taken at the famous movie spot were a tree has grown along side the temple and than wrapped around it. I wait until they've taken there shots before taking mine with no one in the way, then slowly look at it an try to take it in before more arrive. Before long I enter ducking under the tree, getting myself lost in the maze of buildings.

      It really is a maze, not looking like a big place from the outside and due to the amount of decay its hard to even picture what things are supposed to look like. however I spend my time looking through the numerous places and all the nooks I can find, taking quite a while to feel like I saw the entire place. One thing that really sticks out somewhere along the line, it all looks the same, was a huge tree with roots digging into the side of the building, and then right around the top. A giant tree sticks straight out, a true showing of just how long the temple had been abandoned at one point and how nature just took it over.

      Leaving, I turn around and get a great look at just that same tree from a distance, this time seeing the entire thing streaming toward the sky. Truly a great sight. I was pleased with this place, although my thoughts led my into a fantasy before I came of completely covered jungles temples etc. But hey, thats my fault, not the temples. Back at the tuk tuk, I get ready to make my final stop of the day.  

Banteay Kdei and Srah Srang

Built during the reign of Jayavarman VII in the late 12th century, it was part of a larger walled town that was equal in size to Ta Prohm. This temple has been called the spirit of confusion by Maurice Glaize, and rightfully so. Once inside, the vast seemingly never ending halls can be hard to navigate, and taking a side trip to the left or right can mean trouble finding your way back.

Srah Srang, or the Royal Bath, sit directly across from east entrance of Banteay Kdei. Part of the town complex, although the name means royal bath, nearby inscriptions state the water is " stored for the benefit of all creatures ", except curiously elephants " I like to still think of it as royalties giant bath tub.

     Banteay Kdei and the adjacent Royal baths were the last stop of the day. I decided to go to the building first, leaving the water until the end. The small walled town of Banteay Kdei is a neat place to say the least. The main building is long and thin for the most part and seems to go one forever.

     The entire straight line you walk down, flanked by walls carved and columns the same every step, its hard to realize that there are giant towers above your head as you pass under the archways. Everything is just so straight that on the inside its almost impossible to imagine whats on the outside. It creates a tunnel vision. just trying to get to the end and out the other side. Ducking out from one of the sides and just checking around from the outside, the structures become clear and in full view, lining the entire hall. I really had to stare to see that I was walking under them because it just didn't seem like it at all. But that's really what this place has. There are illusions everywhere, and this long thin place just was something different.

      Getting to the other side let me at all to familiar looking gate, with the faces of Jayavarman II, letting men know that this was another project built during his reign. Ta Prohm was also one of his, and the more I see the more I like this guy. He just really knows how to design and build!

     Across the road, I head to the Royal Baths, a massive lake sitting at one end of Banteay Kdei, now across a dirt road. The place in size would be multiple football fields and seems like the most excessive bath every, but hey when your royalty life is all about that. Whatever it was, now it simply is a stunning body of water flanked by my good old lions and an all to well placed palm tree. I really wanted to just jump in! But I thought better of it, and went back to my tuk tuk to start my way back.

     Back in town, I'm not in my room long before I decide to go into town for really the first time to get a feel of the place and grab dinner. I get a quick ride in but not without confusion with the driver who had his own idea of where I wanted to go. I found myself walking forever down roads I had no idea where they went. At one point I made my way to a park and watched two monks chatting it up with someone across the water.

     There's really not much in the dinner department so I settled for some rice at a small place and had dinner. Across the road was a gas station with a small mini-mart which I had not seen in a long time. I grab some ice cream and treat myself, along with some soda and things for tonight. I make up my mind here that for sunset, I'm going to head back to The Bayon. I find a driver, do the essential haggling and then was off. He tried telling me the sunset view was crap at bayon and it probably was, but I didn't care.

     So fare arranged we were off. A few minutes later we pull through the ticket place for a check, the cart hardly stops moving as my ticket is checked with us still rolling along. about halfway we pass hundreds of vehicles parked outside Bakheng, and it was obvious were the sunset action was. I had no intention of getting into another rumble for sunset pictures though, and continued to The Bayon. Upon arrival, I noticed it was dead, with me and two others the only ones. It was wonderful, I couldn't have asked for it to be any better. Working my way to the top once again, I sit and watch the sun through the trees just taking in the place. I love it here, the faces just stare back as you look up and ponder what made someone create this, and just how great it was that they did. The sounds of dozens of bats swirling over head makes for an all too natural night. Nature pervades into the place now, as the sun goes down the nightlife comes out....

     I took a few more pictures before leaving, and yet again had a feeling like coming back burt this time I don't think I will be. Bye Bayon!

    I end my first day at Angkor with an amazing feeling. I think I expected to much from Angkor Wat itself, and just not enough from everything that makes up the entire complex of cities. I can't wait for more, as the next two days I will go further afield, taking on the outlying temples, having completed the main section today.

     Overslept having totally not turned on the alarm even though I set it, and missed my early bird 7am bus to Siem Reap. I knew there would be more however so I went downstairs, paid my room bill and had breakfast. They talked me into booking a ticket through them at the guesthouse so I ate slowly and waited for my 9:30am pick up. That came right on time and my tuk tuk was off to drop me at the nearby station for my bus. I sat around and waited chatting with few people, even thinking I missed my bus as one left while I was talking but it wasn't. The people from the bus thought it was quite funny though seeing me quickly get up looking around. On the bus taking in the A/C, nothing out of the ordinary happened and it was just 6 hours of Cambodian country side until Siem Reap. We did have a pit stop for lunch and for a restroom break etc, but that was about the most excitement the ride got. Upon getting to Siem Reap however, I was so excited to see my name being held by a driver on a sign " Mr. Craig Bennett, Okay Guesthouse ". It was a great moment, I felt so privileged. Back in reality though, the owner from Phnom Penh asked me if I wanted to check out his sisters guesthouse in Siem Reap, which got me a driver waiting in the all dirt " bus station " lot. But still, so cool! So a short drive later I was able to put my bags down and relax. The place was a little out of the way, but I didn't care. I could get a driver from here anyhow. And that's what being here was all about... Angkor Wat and the surrounding Temple Complex. With Angkor Wat itself being the single largest religious monument in the entire world, I couldn't wait.... The absolute accumulation of all I've been looking forward to as far as temples are concerned. Everything has led up to this, lets just hope its all worth it. Up to the rooftop restaurant for dinner and then some shut eye. Meeting the driver at 7am.

( Edit: In Siem Reap having the time of my life at Angkor, simply so much has happened I'm extremely backed up and for the first time so much has happened in such a short stretch I'm actually having to decipher my brain to write something. It's all jumbled up! :-p  but I'm working on it!

 
      I had no plans or the day, and really no desire to get up early so slept in for the first time in weeks and didn't roll out of bned till maybe 11am. Got ready and went downstairs with the laptop to get into the wifi across the street while I have my breakfast/lunch. As I ate I was able to upload all the leftover photo's from Laos and helped me start to catch up again. Staying on pretty much until the battery died, I then headed back to the room to sit around for a little bit before heading out. One of the very few things left to see was the central market, so around 2pm thats exactly where I went. I got the tuk tuk a little down the road from my room since I basically just keep walking until I stopped harassed for a ride and take the first one I can walk up to on my own. About 5 minutes later I arrive, only to realize I'm at the russian market. When he see's I'm not getting out, he looks over, I laugh and say no the central market. It gets across easy enough and soon after I was where I wanted to be. Walking up to the market, I'm surprised at the odd shape of the building the market goes into. Bright yellow, layered, and just plain unique to the area.

     I start walking around, poking through the small shops, which is harder than you'd think because if you get to close to any single shop they pounce on you and try to sell away which gets annoying. It's not really bad though, I love it here in Cambodia. The annoyance factor is so much lower than elsewhere in SE Asia, the people are great, the money is sooo easy... I could go on, but it's hard to believe I had reservations about coming here. Such a great country. Rant aside, I make my way through the rows of shops for quite some time, looking through book shops that sell nothing but photo copied books for dirt cheap, although the covers look perfect.

      I never buy anything at any of these markets, but needing socks and other things I get a few needed items. Then I pass some t-shirt shops and a shirt catches my eye. In Laos, they have a saying that is used for everything and just sums up so much. its : "same same but different" in broken english. Try bargaining with someone back in Lao, and when you say a dollar less, they'll give you an ammount close and then say " Oh my friend, same same but different ". So when I saw a nice brown shirt with just that saying on it, I had to get it. Soon after I made myself leave still kind of stunned I bought something. It's a good thing though, it will get my very few other shirts a well needed rest!

      Leaving the market walking away pushing through tuk tuk and moto drivers, I really had no idea where I was walking until I realized how close I was to Wat Phnom. The park there seemed like a good place to rest a bit, and I had wanted to go back anyhow. Approaching, I couldn't beleive I missed a giant working clock in the center of a garden lining the way up the mountain to the temple. It was fantastic and simply stunned that arriving on bike I missed it.

      Entering, I slowly made my rounds sitting on a bench now and then. It wasn't long before I came across the monkey's again. A woman was feeding a few quite generously which brought along one hell of a crowd. They were everywhere, sitting by there respective tree's eating away. Some with mango's, some corn, some even had star fruit. Seeing a small baby hanging onto the stomache of a much larger monkey was quite cute. I watched them for quite a while before walking just a little bit further to find a mother and baby purched on a stupa eating away. They didn't moive for a long time and I stayed watching here until they left. They were great to watch, the little guy really frisky and trying to go everywhere but held firm by mother.

      Walking across the small path, they were some more monkeys playing what you would thing was hide and go seek, as they run through colored buses chasing each other and having what looks like a grand old time. This amuses me or a bit before I start wondering again.

      I made it over to the museum that I had skipped before and upon finding out it was $2 to go in, I skipped it again just because there's nothing in there that's not in the national museum. The outside had some nice work on it, and fine examples of carved stone.