Ready to go this morning, I was up early and ready for some island life. Skipped breakfast and headed for the stop for the minivan taking us south. We waited quite a bit for the others to arrive, then were put on a boat to our surprise to meet our van on the other side of the river. A short ride on a boat, we once again were at the ferry landing and waited a short while for our boat. After a short wait for the minivan, it arrived and we all pilled in. I chose what ended up being the wrong seat, because there was one seat less than needed and mine was turned into two. So me and the gentlemen next to me very pretty uncomfortable for the 2 hour ride, but not hat bad, you get used to this stuff. I did my best to fall asleep against the pile of our bags coming from the back, and dazed in and out. I walk once to the driver yelling something, but dismissed it. When we arrived, I new imediately by the town we were in that my destination had been passed and were across the river a set of islands further downstream. Turned out the driver was checking if anyone was going that way when he yelled, and since no one anwsered we kept on trucking. Oh well, getting to the other islands is easy from any one. Down to the river to buy a boat ticket, I was off to my first island in Laos, Don Khon. The boat ride was short but interesting with no seats, passing dozens of mini so-called islands popping through the water.

    
     Once we pulled up to the shore ofter dropping some passengers off at Don det which I'll be at later, we were there. Getting out, the normal line of boats lined the shore right belows massive palm trees. Once ashore, it was immediately clear with the numerous signs for rooms on the river that the islands had seen there share of visitors. What wasn't immediately clear is how isolated it was to one part of the island. After walking a short bit into town, I found a room on the river which was really a small hut with a net covered bed. Fine by me, its on the water with a hammock. What did bother me was the immenseky load music coming from across the river from a celebration. So much for relaxing today. I hadn't eaten so after the good old food run, I was off to do a little exploring. Walking down going left from my place on the dirt road, it didn't take long before the eating places, guesthouses etc where all out of view. Outside the main settlement, island life seems to at least on the surface remain untouched. Water buffalo raom giants feilds of rice, stopping mementarily to gaze at you. Long dirt roads seemingly leading to nowwhere dot every corner. Natural farm land everywhere. Truly nice to see the place maintains itself very well, keeping everything else to one section.

     Just past the farms, the road comes back to the water, where there are some really nice views. Fishing boats are everywhere, as well as passenger boats for ferrying people across. The place has a very rustic charm which is just made even better by the water.

        Heading back after the heat got the best of me, I went back to the room to rest up with the view from my balcony. Using the hammock, I decided to grab a photo of myself using the tripod I had. It went well for a bit, until I was a little overeager getting one one time it came crashing to the ground. Funny part was the camera actually flashed right at the end of the fall. Oh well. I just grabbed a chair and looked out into the water for a while. About an hour later someone re-tied the hammock, although rather poorly and I'm uneasy getting back on lol.

       I headed out to grab some food not to long after, and just as I was finishing noticed it was about 5:30pm and wanted to see what I could of the sun going down. Got back in time, and although all I time to do wsnap a few pictures before it was gone, it was very nice. Plus watching the colors it makes for an hour or so after is just as nice.

      I struck up some conversation with the two guys in the bungalow next to mine, chatted for an hour or so and then went with them for dinner where I ate again, no idea why I was hungry again. Soon after it was back to the room for some shut eye. Looking forward to renting a bicycle and exploring the island tomorrow. Music across the river has stopped, relaxing tomorrow is also possible ;-P maybe bike the next day.....

 So as you've noticed it turns out that tourism has brought the internet to the islands here, altough at rates the mafia would be proud of. But it's worked for me even it is the only real expense of my day...

 
    Nothing keeping me in Pakse, in the morning I was off to Champasak, a smaller place just an hour or so south along the mekong river. Home to Wat Phu, a UNESCO world heritage site, I had some high hopes for the place, or at least that that site would be something worth seeing. I grabbed a tuk tuk first thing at about 7am, and got what would have been a a ine quote. However during chit chat he asked my destination, and informed me that there were no buses there from the station, only public sawntheaws from the market. So I just nodded, was taken there and was stuck with the same price for a very short journey. Whether there actually was buses was questionable, but sawntheaws being only 10,000 kip its cheap enough anyway. I was very early for the 9am sawntheaw departture which ends up being later because they dont leave until the entire bed of the half pickup truck is full. So hours of pacing and sitting later, I had met a guy through chatting from England that was going the same place, and decided to split the cost of the ride to the site once in town. Sawntheaws are cheap for a reason, there the most uncomfortable ride around. Crammed full of people each with 5 - bags of food from the market that gets crammed under the benches. It makes for one interesting ride, and when you get to your stop you waste no time getting off. Being only reachable by boat, were dropped at the ferry landing and start our short trip across the river.The boat ride is short, passing some nice riverside, before porting again on the otherside. Many boats line the dock, cars and vans being ferried across along side passengers, some never leaving the seat of there van. A small makeshift town lined the shore, and my first impression of champasak was clear. Small, out of the way, and the only thing people come here for is the heritage site and thats all there geared up for.

     A short ride into town, we were persuaded by the tuk tuk driver to stay at the place he was pushing us towards which is risky but this time paid off. A very nice place on the river with $4 rooms that were basic but good enough. Getting settled I was off to eat with the new travel buddy to the nearest place serving anything. Theres maybe 3 places to eat in the entire town which was really one giant dirt road, so the first one we found was good enough. Chatting a little and waiting an enourmous amount of time for the food due to the act that no one is really ever expected. Making a comment about the limp he had, I'm told that Sanna? ( I think that was his name ) had a stroke a few years back and has little use of the left side. Being an early 30's guy, you would never have guessed that. After eating it was back to the rooms for a half hour before heading to Wat Phu. The ride was quite long down the neverending dirt road, but one we finally got the the site it seemed like it was going to be amazing. Seeing the steps going up the mountain from a distance was stunning. Arriving, I find out there's a museum by the gat to give people a backroiund of the site which was quite nice. We spent maybe 20 minutes in the small hall, reading about the hindu backround of the place and its use back in the 7th century. Then it was off to the entrance. The long walkway leading to the steps was amazing, and gave the impression that it was getting further away as you walked. Arched, more and more road reavealed itself after every step you took getting closer to the small bump in the road.

     Just a few mintues up the road, the stairs get really steep and sanna was having a serious;y hard time with the steps. It was evodent now why he was surprised someone would travel with him, even for a day, feeling like he'd hold them back. I was in no rush to reach the top in record time, so just took the steps slow. About a quarter of the way up the tree's open again for some nice views, the first of some much greater ones at the top.

       Keeping a slow but steady pace, stair by stair, we reach the top after maybe a half hour climb. The temple reveals it self for the first time, and to my disappointment it's nothing special. Not because of the temple itself, but just the horrible job restoring it the government has done. Columns have been used as steps, archways as railings etc. The massive rush job is easily seen, and made no more apparent then when you go above it, seeing a bright blue roof added to keep the workers dry. It wasn't all bad though, as the work in the stone was stunning.

      I walked around and did some mini mountain climbing alone for obviuos reasons, and found a few interesting sites. Some nice caves, some interesting rock formations, and some carvings that are probably graffiti ain all reality but fit with the temple. Back down, we walk to the edge of the cliff to see the view. This is what made it worth it for me. The landscape is stunning, and just not done justice by the photo. Every time I took one, I felt as if what was on the screen just wasn't what I was seeing. Just couldn't capture it right.....

      All the same, I enjoyed the view greatly and reluctantly headed down a while after. Downhill is alwasy much aster, and were out in no time at all. The ride back once again gave the far away view of the stairs leading uphill, reminding how great it looks from far away. Back in town, I waited around a while before having dinner at the guesthouse, being joined by a couple from canada who did volunteering all over the region, as well as a thai couple who were on vacation. We shared stories for a long time while eating, and it was a great way to end the day. Everyone retired before me and a older gentleman smoking a joint on the balcony. I laughed when he invited me over, politely declined by joined him anyway with a seat between us and listened to his stories for a bit. I never knew what he was talking about half the time, and soon said I was going to sleep and parted. Long day, but really ended up enjoyable. Off to the islands tomorrow morning!

     Not going to bed after checking in and just dealing with what I got on the bus, I was off to get a much need breakfast at a local cafe. Done in minutes, it was time to plan the day. There really wasn't much to do here, that was evident right away. However it was only for one day before moving on the the ruins and the islands, can't wait. So having decided to head towards the old royal palace as a main goal, I headed down the main road the opposite to not do any backtracking. About halfway there I noticed a small temple and decided to check it out before heading back. Small signs sit outside the temples here letting you know tourists are welcome and that these our "tourist attractions" lol. The signs show that tourism in it's true form just isn't here yet, not really a bad thing.

      About halfway back after touring the temple and a small chat with a novice, I was called over by two little girls probably 6 or 7 trying to practice there english. Turns out it was a school for teaching english and the teacher was a mid-aged woman who invited me in to sit down and chat away. It's quite amazing how open some of these people can be. I stayed maybe 10 minutes and then was off. About a 30 minute walf over a small bridge and passing nothing but the same block building roads that make this town very mediocre, I arrived at the palace. This place is sooo amazing looking. But what makes it all the better is where it is! It's smack dab in the middle of a small town's business district, litter, shutdown places etc. This would be fine as you can't control what happens to the area around one building, but they turned this once residence of a prince and his concubines into a hotel! Yes, a upscale hotel with hundreds of dollar rooms. It's just so.... I have no words, I just laugh and enjoy its beauty.

     Leaving the "hotel", I noticed a temple straight ahead and decided it couldn't hurt. At the gate, another eually funny sign trying to make it seem like there was serious attractions here. The signs are an attraction of there own.

     Inside the temple, while I found it pleasing to the eye it was nothing great. I was headed straight out when a young novice asked if I could help him with his english. No he really meant it lol. I was invited into the monastery and into his quarters where we sat down with english books and I spent the next hour or so playing teacher. What was amazing was his desire to learn and he had already taught himself through books very good english. All I was doing was explaining things like the variations in words like "various" and "different" which he really had a hard time with. Never a dull day here. Not really what you think young monks are doing, but I think it's time well spent. I was given a giant bag of candy as a token of gratitude on my way out. lol No clue what to do with it but I'll probably just give most to children passing by. Can't wait to see what tomorrow holds in store.....

     
      Will be in Champasak and the islands the next few days.... Most likely no internet for a few days... But if there is any you can be sure i'll find it! See you in few days!

     Deciding last night that I would take an overnight bus to Pakse and begin heading south, I slept in and really wasn't worried about the time. Heading south, the roads are all completely flat and there are night buses. So I started the day late, getting something to eat and then starting to stall out some time by visiting a few temples that really hadn't interested me prior. Browsing along, I found a few nice places but nothing that's not at 100 others. There really was nothing left to do so I just asked a tuk tuk for the fare to the station and would figure it out from there. Getting quoted an outragous number for the short trip and just not being in the mood, I just started walking in the direction. That eventually led me once again to the arch I can't seem to escape visiting. This time I lucked at out though, as the fountains were on for the first time and really made it so much better! I relaxed here for quite some time, stopping to take photo's for someone every time I saw a father taking photo's of the family and never getting in any. This time it resulted in me getting some photo's done of myself aswell.

      After leaving there and sitting for some ice cream from a random cart on the side of the road, I started to walk further up the road. With the station 7km away, I knew I'd never make it, but I figured with so much time to spare the further I got the cheaper it would get. I got about a block further when I saw a pick-up pull over dropping someone off loaded with passengers, and got a ride on there to the station for about 1/3 the orignal quote. Quite happy with myself I was off and arrived not long after. It was about 3pm, and finding out upon arrival there was a cheaper local bus that left at 3:30 arriving at 5:30am, I went for it. Loaded up on food from the cheao stalls in the station and got my seat. The start of a very interesting and sometimes rough ride begun. They never get old these rides.

        It was clear that this was a real local only bus, especially when someone actually chose to sit on the floor rather than sit next to the farang. On the nicer buses everyone's used to it, here it like little kids laughing and pointing about who's sitting next to you. About five minutes into the ride, we took a stop where about 100 bags of rice and blnakets where thrown in taking about the back few rows of seats. Nothing goes to waste here. No full bus, turn it into a cargo bus.

     Once the ride got going, it didn't take long for some no-english interaction between me and some lao guys in the back. Sharing my food I had brought made a good ice breaker, which was returned when they got me some rice and a beer at a pit stop when I was half asleep. Sleep being a relative term since the TV played non-stop karokee video's for the locals who just sleep when they get home. Rather than annoyed I get amusement out of all these things. Although I wouldn't put myself through it again, it's all part of the journey. Dazing in and out every so often, getting of the bus two times at longer layovers in small towns. The ride was long, tiresome, and at times so uncomfortable, but worth it. Along the way I passed some interesting sites, like the stadium for the 25th SEA games being held in the capital. Plus an war cometary for those that died during the war here, the revolutionary monument.

     Arriving in Pakse, far south having decided to skip a few places along the way I'd been advised were nothing special. It was 5:30am and not a single guesthouse opens the doors before 8am. After alot of walking and trying anyway I ran into a couple in the same spot and we dropped are bags in a guesthouse on the river and waited in the common area for them to open. Eventually in the room, tired and drained. What a day..... Let southern laos begin......

      After only 4 hours of sleep, when the alarm went off at 9am I had no desire to move but managed to force myself awake. I was told to pick up my passport from immigration at 10am. I knew very well that I could probably pick it up anytime before close, but it being a Friday and them not being open on weekends, it was a risk I couldn't take. Not to mention I felt naked without my passport on me! So I grabbed a tuk tuk for a roundtrip journey planning on coming right home to sleep again. After bargaining as always getting my outrageous quote cut in half almost, in minutes I was in and out passport I hand with a new extension stamp which I hadn't gotten before. I love getting new types of stamps. Back at the room it was clear ?I wasn't getting back to sleep so I messed around on the comp. for a while before grabbing lunch. I had planned to see the Presidential palace today so after eating I started my walk in that direction. Not realizing it was 12:30, and all government buildings close from 12pm - 1pm. Across from the palace and its temple, Wat SiSaket seemed like a good place to stall out the half hour. Well the main part of that required a ticket so I just wondered until 1pm. Inside was an OK temple, but it takes quite a bit impress me now having seen hundreds. I did like the small statues here though and took some portrait shots of the heads. Not staying long, I crossed the street to Haw Pha Kaew, the temple sitting next to the palace and once the King's personal temple. It's very different now and the interior has been converted into a small museum housing some of the best historical art in Laos. This place was worth my measly 5000kip entry fee, and the temple's mix of French and Lao architecture was really something. The grounds were well manicured, to be expected sitting so close to the palace. I walked the museum for a bit, admiring the giant dragons lining the stairs on the way up. After a bit there was nothing left to see, its impressive but very small on the inside.

       Leaving the temple, I walked back around past the palace looking at what I couldn't go into. I found out during my waiting that it had nothing to due with hours, no one without official business was allowed in. This was made quite clear when I decided to try anyway and the guard got half way out of his seat and gestured me to stop, but was satisfied by a smile and my turning around. The gates were large and solid concrete, blocking any way of taking a picture. I wasn't giving up. I had seen the palace in Bangkok, the one in Luang Prabang, ancient palace's all over thailand etc. This one wasn't escaping. I walked the entire parameter until I found clear spot where I felt out of view. I have no idea whether taking a picture was OK or not, but better to be careful. So I calmly placed the camera on top of the wall and blindly clicked away. Although the walls in the bottom of the photo, it came out great. I was just about all the way around when I noticed a closed metal gate, and figured it was worth trying to see if my lense would fit through a gap. Sure enough, and I was able to get my picture. Didn't disappoint either, quite a posh place!

     Satisfied, I went back to the room for a while doing nothing really, feeling that I shouldn't really spend much today feeling guilty for splurging last night. But hey, it gave me plenty of time to get my blog updated. :-) Stayed in until dinner, walked for a while after and stopped by the river for a sunset. The seriously destroyed riverfront is disgusting during the day, being torn apart buy dozens of construction vehicles of all sizes. Whatever is being done, it has taken any charm and the entire beach away from the river. But here I was along with maybe 20 others, mostly locals, watching the sun go down over the mess of vehicles. I was amazed at how it can make anything seem so much nicer. The glow of orange over the torn up sand and bulldozers almost looked quite nice in a weird way, and questioned my it's so ugly to me in the first place. I watched for a while, admiring it and watching the locals set of makeshift riverside bars made of plastic chairs and tables. No crappy view of construction is going to stop them from getting some riverside business.

     Most likely getting an overnight bus to the south tomorrow and starting my decent into Cambodia. A change of pace. Happy holidays everyone! I'm usually pretty blah about it, but last nights fun kinda brightened me up.

     After bumping into my two friends from Ireland I'd met on the way here, Elaine and Emer, we decided to meet up later for dinner at a place called L'cote de azur. A very nice French restaurant with a menu to match any menu back home. When I arrived around 7pm I got us a table and just observed the surroundings. Everything just said elegance and was 100X the class of a noodle and rice stall on the street thats for sure. But throwing away the budget for one night for a holiday dinner is no big deal. The chef and owner was a very hefty Italian looking man who just gave the impression he new food and gave me high hopes for the menu. I ordered a drink while waiting and was expecting them any minute. What I should have realized was that I was waiting for two girls getting ready for a night on the town, and of coarse would be late. So about 7:40pm came and starting to assume I'd be eating alone I ordered a Spagetti a la panyamme, basically an amazing spaghetti covered in mushrooms and cheeses. Well of coarse right after that they came in, but it really wasn't a big deal and they ordered and I just waited for there food to come before eating mine. Boy did they come in style. Decked out head to toe in Christmas attire, beautiful red dresses, Christmas pins, and of coarse, Santa hats!

      I was really glad to see them and totally forgot I had been waiting instantly. The food was delicious and for about $10 we got authentic French food, drinks, and deserts in a classy place. You just can't beat that. We chatted away about all sorts of things before deciding to head out to a nearby rooftop bar for a few drinks to bring in Christmas. They were of coarse the life of the party, with everyone yelling merry Christmas and the like when they passed by. Right after sitting the bartender took a picture of the three of us which was nice.

     Talking and having a really good time and enjoying ourselves, things just were going great here and I don't enjoy nightlife but this was turning out to be an exception. After about an hour of being there, a guy from Australia pulled his stool over to Elaine ( Left ), and from then on at this place it was them too talking together which left me and Emer to just chat away. Very empathetic, most of her conversation involved things like why the world can get 100+ presidents to take on climate change at Copenhagen when that problems years away, but we can't get any leaders together to make sure every child is in school, never hungry etc. It was perfect conversation for me. We took turns taking pictures, and more pictures, and just sharing our photo's, stories and things about our trips.

     Upon closing, to my naive surprise no one was planning on going home and although I was I decided to go along anyway. Leaving together with the guy from Australia, we got into a tuk tuk he payed for and were off to a Lao nightclub. Now I knew that they existed here, after all every capital city holds some type of nightlife. I was just surprised to see it on the 3rd floor of a fancy hotel. I was really out of place here but I must say these two made me really feel comfortable. Things got going fast and I just kept looking around taking it all in. Music on full blast, people dancing everywhere, I don't think I've ever felt more awkward and really just kept thinking I've never been to a nightclub at home, why am I bothering here? But things went great and staying with them gave me a comfort zone.  Watching them just mingle away was impressive to me, showing off the pins and just getting to know the crowd.

     Having no idea where I was going I still had my giant SLR camera strapped over my shoulder, which although being out of place gave me some excellent chances to interact and have fun taking pictures. Disco lights shimmering on everything and everyone was quite the sight, and I didn't even really realize it until opening up and dancing, Elaine had my camera and took a photo. I was simply covered in red and green dots :-P

      Before long a large group of young Lao guys just basically pulled us to there table and joined in for the rest of the very long night. When the time came to go home, although I had a good time it still wasn't something I'd do again unless under the same terms. An experience nontheless, which is really the entire point of it all.....

     Back in Vientiane this morning and I actually slept in for the first time in ages getting up at 11am, guess I needed it. My only real goal today other than wandering around aimlessly was to go to a travel agent here and have them extend my visa, and maybe have them do my Cambodian visa aswell. I've gotten used to it, but its no less amazing that in SE asia you don't even have to see a immigration official to get a visa. You can pay someone to get it for you! So after a quick breakfast/lunch, I headed to the nearest office. Since I only wanted an extra 7 days in Laos, it wasn't enough for them to make a profit so they told me to go to immigration my self. However if I wanted a full Cambodian visa and a new Lao visa they'd be happy to. Forget it, I'll do it myself. A quick look at my map and a 30 minute walk later, I was there but they were on lunch till 1pm. Once they were back I filled out my very simple form, handed over the money and was told to pick up my passport in the AM with my new stamp. :-) A mere $2 a day to extend in really nothing, and just too easy. I was just going to make a B line for the islands but theres just no reason for me to skip anything and rush. Grab the extension and take my time in southern Laos on my way to Cambodia.....

     Leaving the immigration office I headed further down the road to my favorite place here in the capital, the arch. Just has such a nice feel to it, I didn't really get to walk around the entire park last time. Looking it all over, it still had a great feel the 2nd time around.

      Walking along the left side sticking out like throwing the white house in a farm is what I believe to be the government offices here, although there are no signs. It's not that there isn't a main road here, there is, it's just that nothing, and I mean nothing building wise in the capital is anywhere near as large, tall, or for that matter so pleasing to the eye. further the surrounding roads all lead to smaller and smaller places. I guess that just how it is in the worlds smallest capital city.

     At the edge of the park grounds, there is a gong given to Laos by Indonesia after a world peace conference. The gong is really nice and having every countries flag on it really does seem like a great token. To say it makes you feel all warm inside would be a huge exaggeration, but it was worth a look for sure. I wonder if anyone ever whacks away at it to ring the gong?

      To tired from the heat to walk back, I grabbed a tuk tuk but before I could take off someone asked me to take some pictures for them. The overly flamboyant man was very particular even telling me to re-due some of the pictures, but I could tell he meant nothing by it, just his nature. Back in town and in the room, time to rest before getting dinner and grabbing some latte's. One good thing about this town, it's very French and has alot of comforts that although far from Lao are enjoyable now and then, especially when theres a river across the street.

( All videos and photo's are up! :-P )

     Spent the night uploading everything I had left, with the help of youtube,and can actually say that I am for the first time since I left 100% caught with everything I wanted to upload. Enjoy! Gibbon Experience video's are a must see.

     Waking up very early, I was off to get some food for the long bus ride and then to the station. Wasting no time, I made it to the 7am bus going to Vientiane. Taking my seat and putting my bag in storage under the bus which always makes me uneasy when I can't see it,  but I only do it on government buses. Everything was normal until the bus started. Every time the gears shifted the screeching came from underneath. Really thought nothing of it since all the buses have there own little things wrong, but within an hour were broken down on the side of the road after one final screech. We all instinctively just started talking away, anyone who had any english just forms a group, quite amusing. I snapped a few photo's of the vain attempts to fix the bus along with another fellow. The realization however was that we were going to be here for a while waiting for a new bus, and you can bet the driver of that bus is in no hurry.

       Chatting away with two girls from Ireland the time flew by... I just love the accents people from Ireland have that speak full english! about an hour went by when an elderly lao woman who walked by long before came with a giant basket full of things to sell us. Now since the bus is more than 80% locals, they were the first targets. What a change that was. Curiosity made me go over and check out the goods. Bags of peanuts for 1000kip, fruit for the same. A whole papaya the size of a watermelon for 4000kip. I decided to grab that and split it with another guy checking out the same thing. It was amazing to see the real raw cost of these things, out in the mountains broken down near a village. This woman sold every single thing she brought, and maybe walked away with 20-30000kip ( $3-$4 ). The 1000kip notes are often used as decorations there so worthless, but out there they held real value, and this old entrepreneur, every kip counted. It was a nice site.

      After about 2 hours total, a bus finally came and locals swarmed to get on and grab a good seat. It was crazy with people jumping on with bus in motion, driver not batting an eye. I waited and grabbed my bag from under the other bus and made sure it was on, then got on and grabbed a seat in the back. The vain attempt to make up time didn't work, and we of coarse still had to stop half way for restrooms etc. It was here that I saw a really cool 3 inch long praying mantis, big as hell, crawling along while someone took a picture. He then decided to crawl onto my camera strap and get all too close, but it was cool anyhow.

      The views are great as always, but after 10 hours anything starts to get boring. A series of looking out the window, chatting with Irish friends, looking at my watch.... Repeating dozens of times over we finally arrived, a mere 12 hours on a 8 hour bus. Could have been worse. I hear sometimes the bus doesn't come :-P Spent a little bit finding a room which isn't easy arriving late, but found one quite quickly to my surprise. It was off to a long awaited dinner and some internet. Video's are going up!