The new Mission Impossible: Ghost Protocol movie came out yesterday and with no plans for the day I found myself trying to find if there was a larger theatre in the city playing it. I found Legend Cinema in City Mall, the largest mall in Phnom Penh popular with locals. What can I say I have a soft spot for seeing movies abroad. Stayed around the room until the afternoon and then grabbed a moto to the mall around 330pm. Upon arriving I noticed that the biggest mall wasn't really that big and there were parts completely abandoned with empty stalls. Didn't much care though I wasn't here for shopping. On the top floor was the theatre which while unimpressive had a small charm to it. There was some leftover decorations and a really friendly staff to welcome you. One of the ticket guys was recently deported from the USA and once lived in Rhode Island so it was cool to talk to him in english for a bit. Hell he even had the accent which was really crazy combined with his khmer accent lol. He explained to me when I was buying my ticket that I could save money by showing an a student ID if I had one. For whatever reason I still had my ITT Tech id in my wallet so I got a $ off to bring my ticket to $2. Waited around a bit for the movies starting time and then proceeded to grab the drink and head in. 

Pictures are from the Legend Cinemas facebook page since I didnt bring out my camera.

      The theatre here felt like a true local movie experience here as it was full of locals ready to watch the just released movie. One thing that does suck is the seats lol. There like a foot shorter than ones back home made for the shorter people here. My lower back is at the headrest. Great time though and the movie was pretty good for action. Great way to enjoy a day away from the heat.

      Most likely going to hit up a the irish pub nearby for new years and drink a bit since the island new years thing didnt work out. Turns out that it falls on a khmer holiday and since I've seen what the place is like on khmer holidays already im not doing it again. The prices are double and the crowds not worth seeing twice. Cheaper brews in the big city anyway and alot more people to share it with.

                                               Happy New Year

      Having decided that I wanted to spend New Years on the island of Koh Rong near Sihanoukville I've spent the past few days just hanging out. For the past two days I've spent the afternoon around the guesthouse lobby eating and watching films in the lobby. Then in the evening taking a nice stroll along the river and basking in the cool breeze. Theres alot worse ways you can spend a few lazy days. During on afternoon I grabbed some photos of things in the guesthouse that I find pretty amusing. Paying here uses trust and you write your bill in your room book. On the sign it actually says "In God We Trust" as if that will make tourists be honest lol. Then theres the rooms rules which cover everything from making sure prostitutes check in at the desk and leave there ID for your safety all the way to drugs and luggage. Pretty funny.

      The evenings lately have been great drinking with a group of 4 from Belgium who were one very long trips. Sharing stories and the normal drunk gossip made for a great night. Did the same the next night but we were joined by a girl from china who made for some interesting convo herself. Lots of talk about banned facebook and chinas version of it that can be sensored etc. The night was in full swing when something just nostalgic happened... They played "Babys Day Out" on the guesthouse TV! Havn't seen that movie since I was maybe 9 on VHS and here it was playing on a flat screen in Cambodia... so random but it absolutely made my night.

      Today I'm hoping to do about the same. Not very interesting or thrilling but had to be done. The way money is right now without some down time I wouldn't be able to do the nice things I have lined up over the next few days.

     Made my rounds of calls back home when I woke up this morning using gmails new calling system from the PC. Stayed in the restaurant online for a couple hours and ate before heading up to the room for a bit. Had no real plans for the day but I didn't want to just sit around either. Just felt like walking about and maybe taking some shots of street side activity. Around 3pm I decided to go for a walk but the heat got the best of me a bit quickly and was more than happy to get in a tuk tuk that pulled up beside me rather shoo him away as usual. Ended up going to the central market which while i've been before I never walked the area around it nor have I given the outside of the market any justice. After arriving I walked inside a bit but having no intenion of buying anything I didnt stay in long. The outside is quite a remarkable if odd sight as the giant yellow building is a eye sore to some and a architectual wonder to others. I think when looked at from afar down the busy streets it does have a nice look to it.

     I walked around the market for a bit taking some pictures before heading down some of the surrounding side roads. The atmosphere of the busy city is great but its the little sights that make walking around delightful. I passed this crazy trolley looking truck with dragons on the outside that looked like it belonged in china if anywhere. It wasn't even until I got back to the room that I realized it was actually a normal converted pickup truck with decrative panels on the outside, kinda cool. A bit further around I passed a shopping mall that to me was in an odd spot on a side road but that wasnt stopping business. I had every intenion of checking out the random find but wasn't done walking just yet. Circled the block all the way passing louds of tuk tuks and some small vase exhibits before making my way back to the entrance.

     Inside I noticed it was rather small per floor but made up for by the fact there were 5 floors. Felt strange coming from bangkok though where just one floor couldnt fit in this whole place. I worked my way rather quickly to the 5th passing a bunch of fast food places crammed into this place. Its there where I hit a multitude of gold. First up was the view from the roof. Although in all honesty it was pretty rough and at times hideous pretty much any view frim the roof of a tall building is kinda cool. Seeing life pass by below and all the action going on atop roofs and balconys etc. Was pretty amazing but not as amazing as what was directly behind me on the roof....

      Theres a freaking roller skating park on the roof of the mall! Total local hangout spot for young kids with no foriegners in sight other than one guy checking this out from behind the fence. There were seats along the outside to watch and have drinks as well as wait your turn. The place was packed with young kids just tearing it up on the ramps and pulling off some incredible moves. You could see it was one of those spots they probably come to everytime money allows and just hang with friends till the place closes. I was so tempted to go in but had no idea the cost and frankly they were moving so fast in there I'd be risking injury. Plus its cambodia, I'm 99% sure that size 12 skates dont exist here. Malls dont even carry shoes in my size since locals are never over a 9. What an amazing thing to watch from an almost 360 degree view as I made my way around the roof.

     Whats next? The Sorya Cineplex lol. Hey theres no theatres in the Lao capital and after so many films in thailand I couldnt pass up the chance to movie it up in Cambodia. The place was simple enough with a single ticket booth and maybe a dozen movie goers but I was hooked. They were playing immortals which I really wanted to see so a win win. Got my ticket and then went into the single snack counter where the single greatest thing in movie going history happened. The stands prices for drinks and popcorn were the same as they were on the street in tourist places! Large drink and popcorn for $1.75 and you had a choice of 3 different popcorns, even kettle corn! So excited now I waited 5 minutes until the doors opened and headed inside to sit with my 3d glasses. 

      The movie began soon after and the 3d was so off everyone took off the glasses in moments. Luckily it fixed itself in a few minutes. Great movie with surprisingly good effects in 3d. There was a really funny moment when a small nude scene came and the entire theatre giggled like crazy. Kinda conservative here. Wonderful way to spend a day and catch up on the movies I'm missing.

      Headed back down all the escalators and met the usual mob of tuk tuk and moto drivers waiting outside. When I started the ride back I had every intenion of just giving him the $1.25 I got him down to but something amazing happened. He actually knew how to drive. Seriously we never went over what I'd consider speed limit back home and obeyed what little traffic sense you can have here. First time ever on a moto bike I felt fully same at least with my driver, everyone one else is still putting you in danger. So I had to give him a bit more upon arriving. Keep up the good work whoever you are.

     Its almost hard to even say that I had "christmas" in Phnom Penh because I really didn't do anything christmas at all. I woke up around 11am but didnt really get out of bed until 1pm. See sounds like christmas already doesn't it? Even then I slowly made my way downstairs had a burger and didn't really move for a while thanks to free wifi. Hung out till around 5pm when I headed out to the riverwalk again, this time I did bring the camera although this time things were more about just enjoying the weather and hanging out. The temperture has gotten really cool lately and after the sun goes down its a most pleasant 70ish with a great breeze. Perfect for walking the river watching fisherman cast away and other people enjoying the sights sitting along the rivers edge. 

      Walking towards where part of the boardwalk where the dancing takes place I passed the royal palace as the sun was setting behind it. Wonderful sight and a very popular place for everyone to hang out. The streets were buzzing with afternoon traffic as hundreds of people froggered there way across the street for better views. I really dont know how its going to work when I get home because ive totally gotten used to crossing roads here the local way. Doesn't matter if theres 3 lanes of traffic coming at you you just walk into the road with your hand out and slowly move across the road weaving in between on coming traffic. The driver is anticipating your next step and moves accordingly and you do the same. Its a surprisingly good system since everyone knows how it works. Trying this at home will get me killed lol. Not many roads back home have palaces on the other side though either...

     Just before hittint the heart of the river I passed The Pizza company, one of the very few chain restaurants in cambodia. This place has been the most popular dinner place on the river every night. People outside actually in line for seats for a cheap pizza place lol. I guess there not many other places for pizza here and it turns out local cambodians have developed quite the taste for it.

     I was pleased to see things in full swing when I arrived with dozens of people doing an arobics routine. It seems the music is a late night thing but from sun down to late night theres always som sort of dancing going on by the river. Brave ass people. You couldnt pay me enough to dance in a bar never mind in public. Amazingly interesting to watch though made even better by the instructors giant santa hat.

     I walked about until around 7pm passing a few hotels and restaurants with someone outside in a santa hat. Not too long after I headed to the same bar from the previous night and visited a friend there for the rest of the night. The place was full of hostesses dressed in there red santa style dresses which was great eye candy for the night. Started to feel like christmas a bit in the bar more than outside lol.

    Its funny I did more the previous few days than I ended up doing tonight yet this was the holiday. Then again its really fitting because for me days just blend together anyway. Also as in Vientiane years before with the exception of thailand theres not really a large celebration for christmas. Alot of cheesy santa hats and a bunch of people wearing red is about what you get outside nice hotels. I could have found more nice christmas like photos if I had walked around during the day but I wasn't trying to force myself into a "good" time. Just going about my days the way they work for me holiday or not. Had a good time the past few nights even if I did them a little backwards lol.

     Slept in late and then headed downstairs for my favorite dish here, a wonderfully roasted chicken breast and mashed potatoes. Thats also called "baby food" here in cambodia which gets a small laugh sometimes when you order it but hey its good. Sat around a bit and between an HBO movie on the TV and using wifi the afternoon was pretty much gone before it started.

     Thats OK though because my plans were more night oriented anyhow since I really wanted to do the activities by the river full justice. Headed out there around 6pm but once again without a camera. Never been so forgetful about that thing before but it seems lately I've been more concerned with the experience that documenting it. Thats fine for some days but I really want to get some pictures here! I sat around a bit anyway before walking back to the room and resting up after doing so much ( nothing lol ). Back at the guesthouse with spare time did give me a chance to head to the barbershop next door and get my beard trimmed up again. After cutting it all off once theres no point in letting it get out of control again so been keeping it nice and presentable. Was really a 5 minute process but with a added laugh at the end. The place is kind of upscale for here even if the cost is only $2 and everything comes with a wash. Since most people are getting haircuts not shaves its normal. But here I was with an already skin bald head and getting a head wash after a shave lol. 

    ** Night was a bit like the night before except that after a night out I got cravings for food at 1am so walked down to a pitch black lobby with a guard and got the lone tuk tuk outside. The only thing open was a place called BB World which was basically phnom penhs mcdonalds. Was actually quite busy with young locals and was an interesting late night stop. Diverted again to a 24 hour minimart before heading back to the room for TV and bed. At least that one thing huge cities are good for, theres always something open somewhere.**
     

      I've really spoiled myself far to much lately with sleeping in because when the alarm went off at 6am I was lifeless. Managed to get my things together though and just head straight to the bus without eating. Bus office told me to walk a block away and meet the bus which was parked on the side of the road. Took off pretty much on time and was a really uneventful ride with the usual couple rest stops for a snack to hold me over. Would have been great if it weren't for the last 2 hours which was down these crazy dirt back roads pickingf up passengers. We were maybe 20 minutes away on the main road but this buses route took the hardest way possible and turned it into 2 extra hours. Normally its no big deal buses are late but this seemed so overboard. Arrived around 4pm instead of 2pm but thankfully there were still a few rooms at my GH of choice. 

      There was one rather interesting highlight at the end of the bus trip though. It seems in my 2 year absense the city has started to feature what I can only laughingly call tuk tuk limos lol. All over the citys outskirts are these long extended cab like tuk tuks made for moving families or large groups to the same destination all together. I just found them awesome.

     Spent the afternoon hanging out around the guesthouse before taking a walk toward the river to check out the scene there at night. The place is buzzing with life and its a shame I for whatever reason didn't bring my camera. Hopefully its a nightly thing and I can catch it all again another day because the public workouts and live dance lessons are a sight to see.

     After lingering around a bit I eventually decided to have a drink at a place by the river but the place just felt strange to me so I moved on after the one beer. Next place was more night club than bar and the entire focus of the place was on a group of older men at the bar getting one of the hostesses to dance on the bar. Too crowed and busy for me so hoped again to one next door and finally got the quiet hole in the wall bar feel that I like. Stayed there for the night and headed back after a few***

     Looking forward to hopefully having a similar stay in Phnom Penh as I did in Kratie. Last time I was here I did just about everything the average tourist does here with the palace and what not but this time I want to keep things local. Walk some back roads, check out all the street food stalls and generally get a feel for the other side of the city. Thats the plan anyway, Never know with big cities as things tend to move a bit too fast sometimes.

      Having made full use of the past two days I was feeling a bit drained and so really chose ahead of time to do nothing today. Aside from Eating lunch at noon with Dan from yesterday I just watched TV and used wifi until the evening. 

      I did head out again for dinner to Star Guesthouse's restaurant again but this time just to watch the world go by quietly. I really love the food andd people at this place and It's been were I've eaten here 75% of the time. Staff is overly polite and actually leave me looking forward to meals to come here. Great little wicker tables overlooking the market and at night its the heart of the town perfect for watching people go about there day.

       I really enjoyed coming back here, actually its probably one of the only places I've had a better time coming back than originally being here. Sad to go but any longer and boredom will start to set in with things to do gone and that can only tarnish the memory. So I got a ticket to Phnom Penh for 7am and headed back to the room for TV and an early night.

     It occured to me yesterday after posting that pretty much my entire day was a crime lol. Cambodia is not too keen on taking photos of official buildings and government ones forget about it. I'm in Kratie and no one cares or pays attenion to you but I did have quite the laugh about it last night. Anyone watching would seen me going from official place to place snapping away pictures like a spy not bothering to cover his tracks. Very naive on my part, but still an amazingly fun day.

     Now to the new stuff. At dinner last night I met a guy who had plans to take the ferry across to the nearby island of Koh Treung. So we parted that night planning on meeting there around 11am for a day on the island.
     
     Having been sleeping in way too late lately I set multiple alarms to make sure I was up. Didn't really matter though because the pace of the entire day was just very slow and relaxing. Met up around 11 and had a early lunch before heading down the river to use the ATM. Turns out the ferry port was the completely opposite way so walked back and managed to miss it again somehow. The "port" is really just a old wooden dock with a tiny boat that gets called a ferry. Was pretty neat getting down the stairs to the bottom and being stared at by everyone on the boat with looks like " Seriously there coming to the island? No one goes here " lol. 

     The boat ride was only a few minutes across on a boat that feels like it could sink any day but hey its less than 25 cents to cross. Once across we got off onto what was a essentially a sandbar/beach that surrounded the entire island and went out into the river a few hundred feet. Im sure its covered in the wet season but now it just acts as a way to walk half way across the river on foot. Heading towards the inner island theres a nice foot path to keep you from having to trek through the soft sinking sand which was nice. The place was insanely nice for photos and I wasn't at all in a rush to get anywhere. Dan seemed to have the same idea and it was nice to not feel rushed.

     Up the path and down a small dirt road you enter the actual island and are greeted by an elderly man renting bicycles for $1 a day which is pretty hard to turn down. Really made the odds of seeing the entire small island alot more feasible. We took off soon after heading left with the intenion of riding around the entire island. But there was no rushing which was made apparent when we made our first stop in about 2 minutes of riding. Beautiful flowers flanked the dirt roads, kids yelling hello and chasing the bikes, and the occasional cow or buffalo just sleeping on the road really forces you to slow down and take it all in.

     Maybe made it another few minutes before being stopped again by livestock and some sociable kids. Then I saw probably the oddest thing I'd seen all day which was a tuk tuk driving a customer down a tiny dirt island road. It just made no sense at all. At 7km around you could ride around the place in a tuk tuk in 15 minutes. Seemed crazy lazy to me and you would miss everyway as it raced by but to each there own. How the hell did they get a tuk tuk over here anyway?

      We probably road for about 10 minutes before surprisingly hitting the edge of the left side. At this point it seemed maybe it was a smaller island than I thought but maybe the other sides larger. There was a rather awesome find here though. Nestled away from view behind the strange chinese temple that sat at the islands edge was a floating fishing village. Engines roared as boats plyed there trade and kids walked across planks to reach the sandy land not far away. Always fascinated me that there were groups of floating houses like this. We sat down for a bit on a bench before circling the temple but it didnt last long as the dogs there did not exactly want us poking around. Still a rather nice temple in beautiful surrounds.

     The road heading this way turned out to be a dead end so we made our way back towards where we arrived stopping along the way at a bike repair shop for a water in a simple stilted house. Nothing else existed on here it seemed business wise as most people worked in kratie town by taking the ferry. We made it about halfway back to where we started when I noticed a road that seemed to cut across the entire island. I shot dan a look and he seemed game so we started riding. Turned out to be a perfect way to the otherside as well as a direct link to the heart of the island. The road cut right though palm trees and massive patches of farm land being watered from afar. This area was busy with life and people at work so we pulled over again and just watched a bit.

      Once on the other side we turned left again figuring we mine as well finish of that side of the island on both coasts. This side as it turns out was completely devoid of buildings but thats not to say there wasn't anything to see. There was a really great trio of livestock that seemed to take amazing interest in us as we stopped getting close enough to physically rub against us. They looked cool with there horns and all just going about there business. It all just screamed island life.

      Passing many more friendly faces we hit the end again pretty soon. Took a rest against some abandoned equipment and watched some people working in the fields. Everywhere we stopped here sounds of hello rang out and in many cases people actively would come over and try to engage in conversation. Its really one of the friendliest places I've ever been in asia.

     Once again we turned around and heading towards the right side having seen half the island. It became pretty obvious though after we found another house with a water cooler far down that the other side was alot longer and we didnt exactly start in the middle. Not long after I was talking to dan about how healthy everything on the island seemed with large dogs and gigantic chickens when we came across a bush with maybe 100 butterflys just going crazy over whatever pollen this plant had. It was amazing to see and a great stop. Fully tested the limits of my cameras zoom as well and got some of the nicest close ups ive taken of wildlife so far.

     At this point we had been riding for hours even though it seem like minutes due to all the amazing people and sights that gave us something to stop for every 5 minutes. Getting close to the end of the other side we noticed a road leading back across the island like the one earlier and decided to rest by the water before heading across and checking out the last side of the island. I kept saying I'd sit when we stopped but after riding so long my ass rather enjoyed standing for a few and enjoying watching the bike from a distance. Back on the bikes we proceeded down the road cutting across the island and while there was a temple full of young monks we chose to just cut across as time was now limited with the last ferry leaving at 6pm.

      Across we heading in the direction ofthe ferry and enjoyed the sights and sounds of the friendly people that made up Koh Treung. Thirsty our final stop was at a proper drink stand with a red cooler full of beer. We noticed there was 2 cans of a local brew called black panther and at 8% no one goes near the stuff but I figured what the hell lets try it. Powerful shit so it was a good choice we chose to sit with the group of people at the stand and try to chat with them and have a few laughs.

      Was a great final stop before heading back to the pier. Right before reaching the spot to return the bikes theres a small streatch of paved road which is so random since the whole islands dirt roads. Bikes returned soon after we headed down to the ferry and watched as it unloaded dozens of people returning from kratie back home for the evening.

     On the boat you could see the sun setting and oddly enough a bunch of puppies following everyone to the boat. This one pup really stood out and just made an awesome picture standing in the sand looking cool. Nice departing shot.

     The night proved a bit interesting later in the evening. Showered after getting of the boat as I was covered in dirt and went and had dinner at dans guesthouse. Stayed there until 8pm or so which is oddly when this town pretty much shuts down. Everyone here is in bed by 9pm and up at like 4am. Not wanting to call it a night yet we headed to some food stalls near the river and had a few drinks at the last remaining business to close at night. We were joined by a insanely drunk cambodian guy not long after who started to get a bit annoying so we payed up and called it a night... or tried to. He stumbled after us for a bit laughing to himself which would have been funny if it weren't for how creepy he was. Weird cap to an otherwise prefect day.

     By the time I arrived in Kratie I was just ready to eat and call it a night. I walked down the road following the river looking for a place to stay and noticed alot odd but more on that later. Found a guesthouse on the river with some of the best value rooms in cambodia. Hot shower, cable tv, wifi and spotless rooms for $6/$7. Dropped off my things headed, ate, and then tried to use the wifi and but pretty slow. Was going to just call it a night but then I ran into someone I'd seen in Don Khon who said she was meeting a friend later for dinner and asked if I'd join and said what the hell. 

     We headed out a bit later and wondered around eventually settling on the towns western restaurant. While the food was great, spagetti, burgers etc it was the owner that was by far the nights highlight. He went on and on about girlfriends of his and his methods... Quite the interesting local conversation. Went back to the room afterwards and watched a movie ( cant remember last time I did that ) on the luxury of cable before heading to bed.

                    *** Long Post Warning *** - *** Your Welcome ***

      The next morning I slept in until noon and then got ready for a day of walking around and taking in the town on foot. Ate at the same place as last night but didn't hang around as I really wanted to check out everything. As I noticed getting off the bus yesterday everything had changed since I was here last. The streets were covered with tented market stalls making the sidewalks by the river rather awful looking. It turns out the market where they where supposed to be burnt down months ago and while there was a new one being built for now hundreds of vendors have taken to the streets overtaking the boardwalk.

      The construction project a few blocks back from the river was in full swing and an interesting way to watch some locals at work. For me it was just a new phase for the city but when I talked to other travelers they seemed to really dislike the place. It was in chaos now if I guess if you hadn't seen it before you really can't see the towns beauty underneath all the mayhem.

     Headed over to the river after and sat down watching the river but also everyone going about there day to day lives. Riding around in style on the homemade tractor, saw a giant ice block with a saw for your cooler goods, or just hanging out waiting for someone to buy something under the shade. Kratie is just an amazing place to just watch life go by and not be intrusive.

      Following the river further down I passed a small road with a building that really doesn't stand out but makes you smile if you read the sign. The "Department of Kratie Tourism" building. You see buildings like this in towns all over cambodia however in kratie it just seemed odd as tourism really hasn't hit here yet. It did however spark an adventure for the day. 

     All over cambodia you see government buildings that look rather lavish compared to the poor surroundings but you don't pay them any attenion. In kratie its such a small town they all seemed rather easy to find and I decided to have a little scavenger hunt and find everyone I could. Not far down the river was the "Provincial Department of Agriculture" with its nice villa style house in a small garden. Not a bad place to sit around all day.

      Not far down the road I found the "Provincial Planning Department", a nice house with a single person inside doing nothing. Government jobs here are obviously the way to go lol.

     Next up along the river was the nicest of all and not surprisingly was for the politicians. The kratie headquarters of the Cambodian Peoples Party was a large french style villa surrounded by a large garden and driveways full of Lexus SUV's. Out front was the guard who I assumed might not like pictures hence why there all at angles. Took them just outside his view. I know we have govenors mansions and the like back home but in Cambodia things have to be judged on a different level. The poverty surrounding these buildings in horrible and money could obviously be better used. Worse yet this is the third one of these buildings with construction going on meaning there getting bigger!

     The "Provincial Police Commissariat Of Kraite", the police station, was no different. Huge, lavish, and far too many rooms for a bunch of cops to sit around in all day. But just as I was going to fully pass off the place I noticed a board outside with two sides. One showing wanted and caught criminals and the other showing police with kids and all the various good deeds they'd done recently. The setup was very simple in old photo paper and not setup to be propaganda. It genuinely seemed like a public display of goodwill. 

      Now well into my little hunt I saw down a small road off the river a red cross sign which I assumed meant the hospital and sure enough it was where I stayed 2 years ago. To no surprise though its a very simple building and having seen the inside its not any better in than out. Still I was glad it was there when I needed it. Shabby public services are still public services and far better than not having any at all.

     Back on the river I found a branch office of the hospital for aids research/patients in poor condition. It was interesting to note the difference between public works buildings and political offices. One got money, the other leftovers. And its like that many places, its just here in cambodia all the official buildings have english signs which makes this hunt as simple as wondering the streets.

     Having finished my patrol of the river I headed a block back away from the river to a small rotary where I found the "Posts Office Of Kraite" and directly across the street "Kratie Water Works". Public works so nothing extrodinary here but at least they get a nice rotary full of life the center of town. 

     Turned down a semi paved road to the right of the rotary and found a road dotted with more places to scratch of my non existent list. I have no idea whether it was the small size of the town or luck but every road I chose was the right one. First on this one was the "Department Of Enviorment". If you could see the other side of the riverbank wall with its piles of trash bags and sanctioned trash dumping you'd see the humor in this place

     Not far away was "Electricity Of Kratie" which actually looked the way it probably should. Very industrial like property well away from town. I was craving water at this point and right on cue in the middle of nowhere sits a lady in a hammock with a cooler selling overpriced water and cola. Perfect.

      This next one at the end of the dead end road was hilarious to me. The "Kratie Meteorological Station"... or not. The sign was there but all that remained was some rubble and a rusty old tower. It would have remianed alot funnier if I hadn't turned around and saw the new building across the street. But then it came back when I read the sign "Provincial Department Of Water Recources and Meteorology, Kratie". Nice combo. I walked away laughing once again at the fact that I though that patch of rubble really could have been a working meteorology station.

     Last up on my tour of a citys goverment buildings was the tax offices. The "Customs and Excise Branch Of Kratie Province" and the "Kratie Tax Branch" respectively. This was great. Off all the buildings it would the tax collectors that get the poshest space. Surrounded by poor stilted houses sits the giant multi storey tax office in shiny blue glass. Seriously? lol

     On the way back I decided to try my luck and take the narrow dirt back roads back which proved alot of fun. Got chased by peoples dogs down every road as they tried to protect there property from the weird looking white guy. Local barber and hair saloons where going strong styling folks with the latest cuts for a dollar. Even got to see the backyard of a school with kids playing soccer and young girls on the balcony watching and talking amungst themselves. I was lucky enough to find my way back down these dirt roads and back in the room I was amazingly happy with my day. It was simple and yet I felt like I accomplished a mission and played a game all day. I made something out of nothing because really I had no other plans for the day. Heading into the afternoon quite happy to have finished the day without spending any money minus food.

     No idea what the night holds but probably nothing but dinner and then some TV. Well see. Can't help but wonder what official buildings I may have missed... Perhaps the Provincial Office Of Bribery? Nah, too far from the border.

     My last day and a half on Don Khon were pretty uneventful but I really enjoyed just staying still. Went out for dinner and was invited to join by the girl two bungalows down from me and chatted a while which was becoming a nightly routine. Called it a night pretty early after that.

     I woke up the next day to the islands electricity gone and having no sign of being restored soon. Kinda stunk because I was planning on using the day to update the blog and browse the internet lazily by the river. I spent about 6 straight hours in the hammock and the chair outside my room relaxing but it was beginning to get a little dated and I could tell it was time to move on. Before heading out for dinner I grabbed a ticket to Cambodia for the morning to Kratie, where I finished my bout of sickness two years ago in the local hospital. I loved the town before even though I saw only a bit of it so seeing it properly is something I'm really looking forward to. Plus entering from this side of the country opens the door to visit more places I havne't been before. Tried to get to bed early so I could get up early enough for my 8am departure but of coarse this is the one night everyone decides to drink and party inside the guesthouse grounds and not at the bar.


      Managed to sleep well enough and woke up around 630am and got ready to depart for cambodia. Boat ride to the mainland was easy enough and once at the pier I sorted out the visa ahead of time with the bus company so I wouldn't have to worry about it at the border. After an hour or so wait we boarded the border bound bus and arrived about 20 minutes later. In pure Lao fashion I just walked across both borders just yelling to the customs officers " my passport is with the guide " and got the "OK" response lol. Only here can you walk across borders by word alone and skip immigration. So many laws broken its not even funny. Heres were the fun ended though. About 20 minutes later someone comes over with my passport and gives most people back theres by motions me towards the customs counter. 

      He tells me that my visa pages in my passport are full and that I should go back to Laos! What?! Sure my passport is almst full but theres 3 empty pages. Well it turns out that the last 3 pages in passports are for entry and exit stamps only to make sure you have room for enough stamps to get home. Then came the line I knew was coming... "We can give you visa on wrong page for $20". Son of a bitch. They had me by the balls and knew it but I wasn't paying that. So I sat down and watched the next show to take place after mine. A guy not wanting to pay a bribe of his own was snapping away pictures of the officials and threatening to take them to there bosses in Phnom Penh which really pissed them off. I was positive this guy was going to jail. But he passed of the camera to a friend who left with the pictures and they gave him his passport bribe free with the promise of deleting the pictures. I felt like clapping but realized that was my anger talking, he pulled this stunt for $2 mine was alot different. I took the oppurtunity to step in and use this to my advantage and was able to talk them down to $10 for the law breaking. What really got me was that its cambodia and they knew they were going to but the visa in anyway they just saw a place to exploit someone. As an extra slap in the face they wouldn't do it unless I signed an official waiver form I couldn't read but knew it covered there asses after taking a bribe. I love this country but this time I just had one thought in my head, welcome to fucking cambodia.