Champasak 12/28/2009
Nothing keeping me in Pakse, in the morning I was off to Champasak, a smaller place just an hour or so south along the mekong river. Home to Wat Phu, a UNESCO world heritage site, I had some high hopes for the place, or at least that that site would be something worth seeing. I grabbed a tuk tuk first thing at about 7am, and got what would have been a a ine quote. However during chit chat he asked my destination, and informed me that there were no buses there from the station, only public sawntheaws from the market. So I just nodded, was taken there and was stuck with the same price for a very short journey. Whether there actually was buses was questionable, but sawntheaws being only 10,000 kip its cheap enough anyway. I was very early for the 9am sawntheaw departture which ends up being later because they dont leave until the entire bed of the half pickup truck is full. So hours of pacing and sitting later, I had met a guy through chatting from England that was going the same place, and decided to split the cost of the ride to the site once in town. Sawntheaws are cheap for a reason, there the most uncomfortable ride around. Crammed full of people each with 5 - bags of food from the market that gets crammed under the benches. It makes for one interesting ride, and when you get to your stop you waste no time getting off. Being only reachable by boat, were dropped at the ferry landing and start our short trip across the river.The boat ride is short, passing some nice riverside, before porting again on the otherside. Many boats line the dock, cars and vans being ferried across along side passengers, some never leaving the seat of there van. A small makeshift town lined the shore, and my first impression of champasak was clear. Small, out of the way, and the only thing people come here for is the heritage site and thats all there geared up for. A short ride into town, we were persuaded by the tuk tuk driver to stay at the place he was pushing us towards which is risky but this time paid off. A very nice place on the river with $4 rooms that were basic but good enough. Getting settled I was off to eat with the new travel buddy to the nearest place serving anything. Theres maybe 3 places to eat in the entire town which was really one giant dirt road, so the first one we found was good enough. Chatting a little and waiting an enourmous amount of time for the food due to the act that no one is really ever expected. Making a comment about the limp he had, I'm told that Sanna? ( I think that was his name ) had a stroke a few years back and has little use of the left side. Being an early 30's guy, you would never have guessed that. After eating it was back to the rooms for a half hour before heading to Wat Phu. The ride was quite long down the neverending dirt road, but one we finally got the the site it seemed like it was going to be amazing. Seeing the steps going up the mountain from a distance was stunning. Arriving, I find out there's a museum by the gat to give people a backroiund of the site which was quite nice. We spent maybe 20 minutes in the small hall, reading about the hindu backround of the place and its use back in the 7th century. Then it was off to the entrance. The long walkway leading to the steps was amazing, and gave the impression that it was getting further away as you walked. Arched, more and more road reavealed itself after every step you took getting closer to the small bump in the road. Just a few mintues up the road, the stairs get really steep and sanna was having a serious;y hard time with the steps. It was evodent now why he was surprised someone would travel with him, even for a day, feeling like he'd hold them back. I was in no rush to reach the top in record time, so just took the steps slow. About a quarter of the way up the tree's open again for some nice views, the first of some much greater ones at the top. Keeping a slow but steady pace, stair by stair, we reach the top after maybe a half hour climb. The temple reveals it self for the first time, and to my disappointment it's nothing special. Not because of the temple itself, but just the horrible job restoring it the government has done. Columns have been used as steps, archways as railings etc. The massive rush job is easily seen, and made no more apparent then when you go above it, seeing a bright blue roof added to keep the workers dry. It wasn't all bad though, as the work in the stone was stunning. I walked around and did some mini mountain climbing alone for obviuos reasons, and found a few interesting sites. Some nice caves, some interesting rock formations, and some carvings that are probably graffiti ain all reality but fit with the temple. Back down, we walk to the edge of the cliff to see the view. This is what made it worth it for me. The landscape is stunning, and just not done justice by the photo. Every time I took one, I felt as if what was on the screen just wasn't what I was seeing. Just couldn't capture it right..... All the same, I enjoyed the view greatly and reluctantly headed down a while after. Downhill is alwasy much aster, and were out in no time at all. The ride back once again gave the far away view of the stairs leading uphill, reminding how great it looks from far away. Back in town, I waited around a while before having dinner at the guesthouse, being joined by a couple from canada who did volunteering all over the region, as well as a thai couple who were on vacation. We shared stories for a long time while eating, and it was a great way to end the day. Everyone retired before me and a older gentleman smoking a joint on the balcony. I laughed when he invited me over, politely declined by joined him anyway with a seat between us and listened to his stories for a bit. I never knew what he was talking about half the time, and soon said I was going to sleep and parted. Long day, but really ended up enjoyable. Off to the islands tomorrow morning! CommentsLeave a Reply | AuthorCraig Bennett ArchivesJanuary 2012 Categories |