The first of three, today marks day 1 of what are definitely three of the greatest days in my life. Visiting Angkor has been at the top of my list ever since seeing pictures of things like National Geographic, although at the time I never thought I'd ever be here. To Angkor, for all its buildings, all its glory, and all it has given me.

Angkor Wat

Built during the reign of King Suryavarman II in the early 12th century, Angkor Wat stands out as the single largest religious monument in the world. Angkor Wat besides being a mausoleum for it's builder and a temple to vishnu is a fully realized micro version of the hindu universe with the five towers respresenting Mount Meru. As Travelfish puts it "  Like all temple mountains, Angkor Wat is a model of the divine — playing out Hindu mythology in both its construction and spectacular bas reliefs. At the centre of the Hindu (and Buddhist) universe sits Mount Meru, a holy peak some 750,000km high on the mythical continent Jambudvipa...... In walking across Angkor's naga bridge and entering the complex, you are traversing the ocean from the real world to that of the gods — stepping from continent to continent and then scaling a peak some 750,000km high — there's no escalator. "

     Getting up bright and early, alarm going off before the sun was even up, I got ready and went downstairs to meet my young driver at 7am. I had arranged yesterday with the guesthouse for a tuk tuk for the entire day, or roughly until sunset for $10. Seriously can't beat that, you really can't. Really excited, I wait with anticipation for my arrival at the world's largest religious monument. But before all the good stuff we pull into a turn off near the main road where all cars heading in the Angkor direction with a foreigner must go through. It acts as a checkpoint and a ticket buying place, and it was both for me today. After a short wait in the wrong line, I moved my way over to the line for the 3-day pass. After a short wait I got my photo taken and $40 later had my picture ticket for the next 3 days. The price is called steep by so many, but it's actually less than my usual sight-seeing budget when you spread it over the 3 days. Not to mention your seeing a complex of dozens of monuments, including the worlds biggest. While Angkor Wat itself is the main attraction, the remains of an entire empire site within Siem Reap. Dozens of giant walled temple cities all linked buy roads once formed the connected cities of the Khmer Empire. Thinking about it, I wasn't even sure 3 days was enough, but it was going to have to be. A whole punch in my ticket by the guard later, I was off to Angkor Wat. Approaching, I could see the start of the moat and outer wall, both of which are miles long on all sides forming a giant square around the entire structure. It's immediately obvious your dealing with sizes you haven't seen ever before. You can't get everything in your eyesight at once, and your not even inside yet.

       Parking near all the food and souvenir stalls across from the main walkway, I try and remember where the driver is for when I come back and then I'm off. Walking down the long causeway I can't hold back the rush of excitement. Getting to the outer wall and main gate, I look around while on the steps and take in the vast expanse of the moat on both sides. It seems to go on forever, and for as far as my eyes can tell, it does.

      Through the gate, I get my first glimpse of Angkor Wat. Stunning, even from the massive distance you can tell your dealing with something legendary. However, it is somewhat ruined by the fact that there is a large green tarp over the front stairs, a sure sign that some restoration is underway. Now I now it's selfish to feel that it shouldn't be there due to the fact that it's being done to preserve the place for all time, but I did at the time. It of coarse doesn't take away from where I was, and I kept on moving with curiosity. I passed some small temples about halfway on each side of the pathway, along with some very large pools of water. I believe them to be whats left of reservoirs used to supply water to the complex. Now there filled with pink lotus flowers, and are truly truly beautiful. Arriving at the main gate, entering the first level of the complex, I turn around and take it just how much I'd passed before even entering the actual temple. It's really incredible, as from the start I'd probably done  a little over half a mile, and all space is just the outside. The classic set up for a Khmer temple is a pyramid like scheme in a giant square, where each section is walled off, a wall within a wall, getting slowly higher each level. Think of placing a book on the table, then placing progressively smaller books on top each side an inch smaller every time. It creates a truly impenetrable place, not even counting the moat.

      Inside, I pass some small pathways with some carvings, but nothing can ever compare to the halls I came upon just a little down my first turn. These walls line the entire way around the first level, literally miles of carving, every wall telling a different story. I walk slowly down two of the four sides, trying to decipher the meaning of the Hindu mythology. The detail is just so amazing, it really takes a while to get it all in. Chariots crushing solders, hundreds of warriors lining every inch of the bottom layer...

     Moving deeper inside, The second tier seems to be calling me so I keep on going. As you enter each successive level, the wide open area in between the sets of walls reveals itself. I look to both sides, taking in the area. To one side, I watch people climb a small tower and sit down resting from the heat. Before long I myself was headed up the stairs to my final tier. Looking back, the view from the gate that I came through was great, and I could really see a great amount of the monument from my new height.

      Though not technically the final tier, it is for me since the last one is off limits due to the deterioration it would cause and the work being done. But looking up, past the birds perched on the stone, it was quite a sight to see the grand towers. Something just wasn't right though, I wasn't sure whether the sun was causing things to be hazy, whether the restoration ruined my mood too much etc. I just didn't feel like I was appreciating the place enough.

     Moving on, walking around the tier, I was really taken away with the detailed carvings that where on about every inch of the walls going all the way around. Very large, they were heavenly dancers called Aspara's. I saw things like this throughout the entire place, and the detail of the dancers was just stunning.

      Exiting on the opposite side of where I came in, I started down the halls the other way and continued to see more of the fantastic halls of carvings. This wall was all the more preserved, with shiny black stone at parts looking like it was just polished yesterday. Men standing on elephants fully in battle really take it away, being larger than anything else on the wall. I hear a guide tell a tour group that the reason its shiny is because its staying polished from visitors wanting to feel how smooth it is. Even though your not supposed to touch anything, thousands of slight rubs by visitors every week could polish it I guess! lol.    

     Looking back on the way out of the tier, I get a really great glimpse of the towers of Angkor just over the walls. It was great, but there the size of the place really means that inside you can't get any real idea of the size due to the fact that its just too massive to fit in your eyes all at once. I made my way outside to try for the all encompassing shot from far away. Getting out there however, the first thing I got was metal and pulleys from more restoration. Again, I let out a sigh, but it's not about me in the end, it's about future generations having this place to come to and that I must respect.

      Walking around about half the entire outside, lol, which is still technically the inside, just the outside of the inner wall. Confusing, but all too true. I get about halfway when I see a really nice shot that gets in the main parts all together, although to really get the vast structure in full view, I think you'd need to take the $90 helicopter ride that I've never heard of anyone taking. All the same, I really got a good portion in here which really made for a great way to the view the place.

      Backtracking and heading out, through hallways, temples, walls full of carvings etc, I eventually make my way back to the main walkway leading out of the structure. Then I saw it and knew that's what I had to do. The hot air balloon. It didn't take me long to find out it was $15 a person to go up 200m over Angkor. It was happening, I didn't know when or what day, but it was happening. And when it did, I was coming back here and going over every inch of the place. Today I just have too many places to go to spend 2 hours here, but the other days will be far less hactic. I'll be back here.

      To give you a full understanding of just how big things really are, as well as the set of most of the angkor cities, here is a stock photo from Wikipedia. I'm going to get some photo's like this rom the balloon, I just have to!

      Back down to the tuk tuk mafia of hundreds of parked rides, I find my driver and wake him up from a dead sleep in the back of the tuk tuk. I didn't understand why he didn't come in. Every temple in Angkor is free for Cambodians anyway.... But soon enough we were off, and I was hoping that everywhere I wanted to go we actually would since I couldn't communicate with him. I had to hope my middle man got all the info passed on right, so I knew it might get interesting....

Built much earlier than Angkor in the early 10th century during the reign of King Yasovarman I, it was the state temple of the first city at Angkor. The multi terrace pyramid like temple of ascending squares, surrounded by smaller towers.

      Fortunately this guy knew where he was going, and since I was probably following a trail many before had taken I should have known it would be OK. But then again you never can be too careful here, anything can happen. The next stop was actually an extra, basically one I had no idea about. Approaching the mountain, I see a set of steps going straight up and it looks like a 2 minute thing. To bad that all the steps are off limits until steps can be put in to avoid ruining the actual steps. So a long twisting dirt road winds it's way up the mountain and turning the climb into about 15 minutes.

      Passing men coming down with wheel barrels full of material, it was obvious work was being done here as well. But at the same time, it made me feel good that Cambodia was doing what it takes to keep the monuments in good shape, even if it is with the help of many other countries money. Actually in the case of bakheng, the state temple of the first capital of Angkor, its not really keeping it the same as it is putting it back together for the first time. the majority of the place is rubble of the ground and being restored from the ground up. Luckily, there is still some really nice towers that have withstood the test of time. Lined up in rows each getting slightly taller, you can just imagine what it must have looked like when all the towers where fully there.

     Getting near the stairs, I'm greeted with the all too familiar lions that guard the entrance to the temples. The detail on them is great and there slowly becoming an attraction of there own. I walk the circle of the place, by a large cow statue letting me know once again that the Khmer practiced Brahmanism for the majority of time mixed with God-king worship until Buddhism pushed it all aside in the 1200's.

    Eventually making my way toward the steps heading done, I get a great look ot the 3 tiers that get very much higher each time with quite a few steps, and can only imagine he height and just how many tiers are actually missing.

      Getting down, I pass the hordes of stalls of the other side, everyone selling water and " cold drinks " which they scream that you want whether you do or not. I find my driver asleep again which really doesn't bother me since he jumps right back into action when I get there. Back on the road to Angkor

Angkor Thom

One of the largest cities ever built during by the Khmer, Angkor Thom was founded by arguably the greatest of all Khmer Kings, Jayavarman VII. It was his capital and remained that way for the most part until the 17th century. The city is said to have held over 1 million people at the time, with each of its four outer most walls being just under 2 miles with an equally large moat. The city contains some of Angkor greatest sites, such as The Bayon and all its surrounds. Things only continued to grow as successive Kings each added more and more to the city, helping to make it on of Khmer largest ever cities.

Angkor Thom - The Bayon

The Bayon was the state temple of King Jayavarman VII, and many scholars actually think the faces depict him as a God-King. There were originally 49 towers, now only 37 remain standing creating the enormous mountain peak of towers. The site has gone through numerous changes as it went from a Hindu place of worship to a Buddhist one, and is noticeable in the carvings and statues. The four faces on most towers face the cardinal directions, and are possibly the greatest site in all of Angkor.

     As the ride began to Angkor Thom, I really had been impressed but not to the extent that I though I would be here. That all changed here, and without too much of a spoiler continued to do so for the next day and half and counting. But nothing, and I mean nothing prepared me for what lay in store for me here. Angkor Thom was the largest city in the Khmer Kingdom, housing over a million people by some estimates. It's size and special place in the kingdom is shown by the fact that it remained capitol for almost 500 years in a kingdom where the capital changed as often as the king. The entire place is walled in, miles of wall surround a complex of many many places. My first stop, and it would have been my last if I didn't have other places to go, was the direct center of Angkor Thom, The Bayon. As we enter the Large gate, I get my first glimpse of whats to come. A giant head sits atop the gate, one acing in every direction. The face just screams attenion, and I find myself staring it down looking backwards as we pass. The road leading up to and past the gate is off a massive number of gods and demons holding a giant snake. The heads are white and are obviously added on through restoration, but they complete the feel of it and was glad they were there.

      Arrival happens fast, and before I really know it I find myself looking up at a massive tower of faces for the first time. I can see in the distance the multiple towers standing in every direction. There are 48 or 49 remaining out of the original 54 which is damn impressive given the time thats past, and I was going to check out every single one.

      Entering, I make my way through the narrow not so well lit halls, pretty much making a B ling for the center. I now better than to do this and theres just alot you can miss, but I was drawn, a man on a mission with full blown tunnel vision going straight for the goal. Passing through the first tier, halfway up the steps I turned to the the towers sticking out, and a clear view of the roof to come.

      And then it all hits me, as your my comes out from below into a see of faces all made of stone. The towers are in every direction and I'm not sure which way to look, head spinning in every direction. I'm amazed, and am truly inspired by what I see. There are alot of people here, but most stay in one single section that has some popular views or go inside for some self photo's. It was easy to get some area's to myself, and I just snapped away. I mean I really snapped away, a few hundred pictures maybe, and that's a rough guess. I passed some amazing aspara's on the walls which I really have grown to love, along with an amazing face with nothing but the lips left at the top of the highest tower. Looking up creates a feeling of being overwhelmed, the towering mountain of towers overhead just fills you with joy. Nothing like it will probably ever be seen by me again, and I really wanted to enjoy every bit of it.

      I made my way back to the center where all the Japanese tourists where taking photo's of each other. Totally of topic, but I really admire the Japanese in some ways since I'm been away. Every place you go, theres a giant Japanese tour group waiting to pounce on it. They travel in large families all taking photo's of each other, spending an hour at one spot if it means everyone gets that picture. No one else can fulfill the tourist role better that the Japanese from what I've seen. They just do it so well. Back on track, When a family was done with there photo's I asked for one which I rarely do but I loved this place. He did a great job he really did....

      Another frenzy of photo taking began as I did a full circle around the entire tier, just admiring all the faces. Every one has exactly the same facially as if all being the same person, but all where in different condition, color, size etc. It really made each one unique and special. Historians believe the faces are that of the creator of Angkor Thom King Jayavarman VII depicted as a God-King. Right about now, and even more after I saw his other creations, I loved Jayavarman. The Bayon has really made a mark on me, and I'll never forget it. If I ever do, I'll be on the next flight here to cram it right back in.

     Making my way back down to the bottom to continue my journey, I turned around at the bottom to see the set again. I knew I'd be back here aswell, it was just that good.

Angkor Thom - Baphuon and The Royal Palace

If the main tower were still standing, the mountain temple of Baphuon would be by far Angkors tallest monument. Its site is enormous, with the temple itself walled in a square following typical style being created in the 11th century. Its present state however makes it hard to see in anyway its former glory. The five tower structure is currently under heavy restoration, although due to be done in 2002, 2010 is here is the work is far from over.

The Palace was created by King Suryavarman I and used by the Kings of Angkor Thom from the 11th century to the 16th century. The large ponds that surround it give it a very nice touch, although the palace itself has not much left standing. Still, theres enough there to make you realize just how good it was to be king.

     I wasn't actually leaving anywhere yet, since anywhere I was going was still within the giant walls of Angkor Thom. But I made my way walking over to the nearby temple of Baphuon without really knowing what to expect. Walking down the long causeway, I notice the large pools of water on each side that are all but dried up, but add a nice touch due to the fact that you can imagine them in there glory.

      The place is under the heaviest restoration that I've seen, with the walkway pretty much ending you time here as everything is roped off. There are men and women all over it doing some kind of work, even a small crane is in on the action.

      It really was no big deal, although I'd be very interested to see it when it's restored, or even better have seen this massive five story pyramid like temple when it was in it's prime. If it hadn't fallen it would easily be the tallest structure in the entire Angkor Complex. But what it is now is a shadow of its former self, so I was off rather quickly. The other side of the temple which leads to the royal palace, or what remains of it, has some interesting stalls along the way. Painters and artists line the way selling there work, and it being SE Asia I would have guessed all the work re-prints. I would have been wrong, since more than once I saw someone drawing a new piece about halfway done, and it really was stunning. I hadn't seen any actual painting being done, but they all did look original and amazing. The ones of Angkor where especially stunning, and due to the fact that you being near the paintings and even listening to the sales pitch is a get out of jail free card, I was able to take some really nice shots of them. I actually did see one guy buy one for $35, and it was huge. I mean it would easily take up an entire living room wall back home.

     Walking past the stalls and into the forest which for the first time in Angkor Thom gives me the real appreciation of just how much space is enclosed here. I find the old Royal Palace which is a multi tiered stone building bear some large bodies of water. Some nice stone lions line the entrance way, and although the stairs look easy for some reason I don't go up this one. I had no reason, just didn't, and I guess it's a little late to look back now. I walked through the forest, following the wall that was semi over taken by trees hoping to stumble upon some more places. What I found was wall, more wall, and even more wall followed by a gate of two. I went through one of the gates and walked for quite some time.

Angkor Thom -  Elephant Terrace

At the heart of Angkor Thom sits the Elephant Terrace, created during the reign of Jayavarman VII and used for Royal reception pavilions. The sheer number of elephants that line its walls give its recognizable name today.

      The forest was thick here, most likely the remnants of where the wooden residences would have been long ago for the people who lived here. I eventually made it out of the complex to road, albeit the very very wrong side. The complex walls are maybe 2 miles long at this point, and I had gotten myself to a point where I had to walk down all the way, then turn at the corner to get to the other side of this giant square. This would have been brutal due to the face that after 10 minutes it still looked just as far away in front of me, however a very nice woman picked me up of here moto and gave me a ride to the start of the road I could find my driver on. This worked out however, because it gave me the chance to explore The Terrace of Elephants. A long long semi elevated platform in front of the wall with hundreds of images of elephants. Some craved in the walls, some full blown statues etc. As I followed the terrace, I really was glad I stumbled upon it and was quite impressed with the white elephant statues.

     After some time, the terrace changes form into Garuda's half bird half men things from hindu mythology. After this, on the other side of the road, I notice some small solo temples that don't even make me blink anymore. I think I took a picture still looking ahead of me, just the camera facing left. Eventually I made it back to where the vehicles where parked, and got some water from an all to pushy water salesman. To have to be so intense to sell water in 90+ heat seems strange, but with 1000+ people selling the same thing, if you don't no will chose you to buy from. After I ate some overpriced rice that was just bad but it can't all be good. The driver this time was having some snacks of his own with a young girl when I got back, and I felt worse breaking up his date that his sleep lol. He sure knows how to make good use of time though....

Ta Keo

Built during the 10th/11th centuries by King Jayavarman V, its of the same style as Bakheng but with differences. Most notably is that its bare. The work actually stopped before the carvings were complete, giving its unique sandstone material a bare appearance. At the top sit five towers, one in each corner and one in the center, probably representing mount meru not unlike Angkor Wat.

      Next up on my list, or the drivers list, was Ta Keo. A large temple mountain, I was impressed right of the bat from the elegance of it. Its large, sitting about 22m or 70-80ft high, but the mountain its on on makes its look easily 3 times that. A 3 tier temple, it gets progressively taller as you go up, this time thats very easily seen from the top. As I enter the front, you can make out the entire structure straight away, giving me some real hope for the rest.

     It was a great monument, and the first of it's kind for me to be so massive yet really undecorated. It was rather plain by the standard, but I just really liked it. It was also the first of this type I was actually able to appreciate, with Bakheng and Baphuon not as accessible. This time I was able to get up close to the five towers and really enjoy it all, but first I had to get up there. Stopping at the 2nd tier for a look around, I did some walking trying to take it all in before heading to the top. From the highest point, the views of the surrounding area are fantastic as well the entire temple.

      Looking at the main peak sitting center at the top, I can't help but feel small. As I make my way back down, I am stuck thinking about the vast expanse of places here and all the history behind it. All that I've seen already has been so amazing, the ancient Khmer were serious builders and really for all this to still be here stuns me. After I make my way back to the driver, he tells me were off to Ta Prohm, a place I'd been looking forward to after hearing it was still mostly covered by the tree's that naturally overcame it over the years and not cleared like the others. Also parts of the Tomb Raider movie were filmed there! Heading out, I once again leave through one of my favorite sites, the four faced gates looking in all directions.

Ta Prohm

A large temple monastery for Jayavarman VII, Ta Prohm remains an amazing site. Trees ravage the site, vines straight through temple walls as a testament to natures power. The state of ruin leaves things rather hard to navigate creating a temple maze which only adds to the sites romance.

      Arriving at Ta Prohm, the entrance is like many of the others, but upon entering you can start to the see the difference. Trees are everywhere and right after entering you can see a rather large one growing straight through the wall surrounding the place.  

     Further in, there are loads of people having there picture taken at the famous movie spot were a tree has grown along side the temple and than wrapped around it. I wait until they've taken there shots before taking mine with no one in the way, then slowly look at it an try to take it in before more arrive. Before long I enter ducking under the tree, getting myself lost in the maze of buildings.

      It really is a maze, not looking like a big place from the outside and due to the amount of decay its hard to even picture what things are supposed to look like. however I spend my time looking through the numerous places and all the nooks I can find, taking quite a while to feel like I saw the entire place. One thing that really sticks out somewhere along the line, it all looks the same, was a huge tree with roots digging into the side of the building, and then right around the top. A giant tree sticks straight out, a true showing of just how long the temple had been abandoned at one point and how nature just took it over.

      Leaving, I turn around and get a great look at just that same tree from a distance, this time seeing the entire thing streaming toward the sky. Truly a great sight. I was pleased with this place, although my thoughts led my into a fantasy before I came of completely covered jungles temples etc. But hey, thats my fault, not the temples. Back at the tuk tuk, I get ready to make my final stop of the day.  

Banteay Kdei and Srah Srang

Built during the reign of Jayavarman VII in the late 12th century, it was part of a larger walled town that was equal in size to Ta Prohm. This temple has been called the spirit of confusion by Maurice Glaize, and rightfully so. Once inside, the vast seemingly never ending halls can be hard to navigate, and taking a side trip to the left or right can mean trouble finding your way back.

Srah Srang, or the Royal Bath, sit directly across from east entrance of Banteay Kdei. Part of the town complex, although the name means royal bath, nearby inscriptions state the water is " stored for the benefit of all creatures ", except curiously elephants " I like to still think of it as royalties giant bath tub.

     Banteay Kdei and the adjacent Royal baths were the last stop of the day. I decided to go to the building first, leaving the water until the end. The small walled town of Banteay Kdei is a neat place to say the least. The main building is long and thin for the most part and seems to go one forever.

     The entire straight line you walk down, flanked by walls carved and columns the same every step, its hard to realize that there are giant towers above your head as you pass under the archways. Everything is just so straight that on the inside its almost impossible to imagine whats on the outside. It creates a tunnel vision. just trying to get to the end and out the other side. Ducking out from one of the sides and just checking around from the outside, the structures become clear and in full view, lining the entire hall. I really had to stare to see that I was walking under them because it just didn't seem like it at all. But that's really what this place has. There are illusions everywhere, and this long thin place just was something different.

      Getting to the other side let me at all to familiar looking gate, with the faces of Jayavarman II, letting men know that this was another project built during his reign. Ta Prohm was also one of his, and the more I see the more I like this guy. He just really knows how to design and build!

     Across the road, I head to the Royal Baths, a massive lake sitting at one end of Banteay Kdei, now across a dirt road. The place in size would be multiple football fields and seems like the most excessive bath every, but hey when your royalty life is all about that. Whatever it was, now it simply is a stunning body of water flanked by my good old lions and an all to well placed palm tree. I really wanted to just jump in! But I thought better of it, and went back to my tuk tuk to start my way back.

     Back in town, I'm not in my room long before I decide to go into town for really the first time to get a feel of the place and grab dinner. I get a quick ride in but not without confusion with the driver who had his own idea of where I wanted to go. I found myself walking forever down roads I had no idea where they went. At one point I made my way to a park and watched two monks chatting it up with someone across the water.

     There's really not much in the dinner department so I settled for some rice at a small place and had dinner. Across the road was a gas station with a small mini-mart which I had not seen in a long time. I grab some ice cream and treat myself, along with some soda and things for tonight. I make up my mind here that for sunset, I'm going to head back to The Bayon. I find a driver, do the essential haggling and then was off. He tried telling me the sunset view was crap at bayon and it probably was, but I didn't care.

     So fare arranged we were off. A few minutes later we pull through the ticket place for a check, the cart hardly stops moving as my ticket is checked with us still rolling along. about halfway we pass hundreds of vehicles parked outside Bakheng, and it was obvious were the sunset action was. I had no intention of getting into another rumble for sunset pictures though, and continued to The Bayon. Upon arrival, I noticed it was dead, with me and two others the only ones. It was wonderful, I couldn't have asked for it to be any better. Working my way to the top once again, I sit and watch the sun through the trees just taking in the place. I love it here, the faces just stare back as you look up and ponder what made someone create this, and just how great it was that they did. The sounds of dozens of bats swirling over head makes for an all too natural night. Nature pervades into the place now, as the sun goes down the nightlife comes out....

     I took a few more pictures before leaving, and yet again had a feeling like coming back burt this time I don't think I will be. Bye Bayon!

    I end my first day at Angkor with an amazing feeling. I think I expected to much from Angkor Wat itself, and just not enough from everything that makes up the entire complex of cities. I can't wait for more, as the next two days I will go further afield, taking on the outlying temples, having completed the main section today.