I had arranged to meet bon, my all too fun moto driver around 9am and got up a bit before to grab something from a nearby bakery. We were off a bit before 9am with a saying of coarse although not sure which one this time. I knew today would be long and prepared my self for a good ride. But after just a few minutes we pulled over in the countryside by a local morning market and ate a real breakfast which he pretty much insisted I have. It was some crazy yellow pancake looking thing filled with what seemed like potato. Anyhow it was actually good, but waiting it with hands only was awkward. It was good to eat though, and finishing up we were back on the road. We passed alot of fields and villages along the way before being able to see my first stop in the distance. A giant mountain with a gold tower sticking out at the top. A modern temple inhabits the top, but I was going there for the views. We pulled over so I could take a picture of the mountain.

    While there facing the other way I noticed some really great newly planted rice fields that just glowed green. Bon took a picture for me before we got back on the bike and headed toward the mountain. Within ten minutes we were there I think, pulling down a dirt road leading to some small restaurants and a ticket booth. We sat and grabbed a drink for a minute resting before the climb. A child offered to guide me, but Bon was coming up so there was no need. On the walk to the base, he tells me that theres almost 900 steps to the top of Phnom Sampeau which makes me laugh inside but dread it also. As we started up, I found out it wasn't actually the stairs we were going up but a road that carved along the outside. We could have drove, but somehow he got the idea I wanted to walk up it lol. Anyway maybe 1/3 of the way up we got our first good views, one of them being a great view of " Lonely mountain ", a name given by the locals since its in the middle of a plain of flat land.

    We came to a fork about half way there, and we turned left as he wanted to show something. We went to a small part of the temple here and inside the main building. He then proceeds to tell me about all the people killed here during the pol pot years, and really goes on about every detail. It was strange seeing him transform from the happy go lucky guy, even opening up enough to tell his never met father was also a victim - the crime was being a soldier before the revolution. We then went down deep in a cave that housed to my surprise another hall of skulls and bones in a case guarded by a solitary nun sitting nearby. The khmer rouge used this place as a killing field just throwing bodies into the cave from an opening above. I really had no idea that this was part of this mountain, so all the more shocked when it was upon me. After leaving, we headed up a bit to a ledge were he told me a funny story about the mountains creation myth involving chickens, ducks, crocodiles and a lady with never ending hair. It was crazy to see the mood go from down to up so fast, but I've seen thats that is how they deal here. He turns back down to the bottom after this saying its too much for him, and I'm directed to the top. It was only minutes away past a few monkeys before I came upon the top, but the views were just getting started.

    Making my way through the sets of pathways that went through the glorious buildings to different cliff edges for various views, I stopped on the far side to turn and get some real shining photo's of the tower here. This temple really went all out to get a gold tower of this magnitude all the way up here, but it was spectacular. Completely carved with detail, it looks as if it were its own mountain of gold floating up to the sky above. Equally great is a wonderfully colored temple building that just fit perfectly next to it. Even the trees got in on the action, providing the final touch with a great tropical feel.

     After the gold sunk in, I my way to the edge straight ahead from the way I came up and then to the right, finding some fabulous mountains and green plains to look at. The view from here was really worth the trip, and definitely something that I'd missed doing. So glad today's weather cooperated, as this is clouds wouldn't have been anything close.

    I only saw this while walking, but it just stood out and I have no idea what it is. Just s funny stone lying against a wall that just said photo me dammit.

    I walked around a bit checking out various sides for different views until the sun got the better of me and I  started my way down. Bon had told me to take the stairs down as its faster, so I thought I did just that. I went down a giant set of stairs leading into the depths of the rock. The view was great seeing rock on both sides and large hindu statues in a buddhist temple. There was almost a mini forest down here in the crevice of the mountain, and although great obviously the wrong way. There was other stairs after I made the long climb back up, but not wanting to waste time trying them all I just started back the way I knew. Along the way I checked out all the tropical trees lining the cement road that I winded down until the bottom.

    Back at the bottom I made my way over to the place we were sitting and drank some water before heading off. I was so tired, seeing him resting in a hammock waiting made me jealous but I'm never getting in a hammock again unless it uses metal chains. We started driving to a nearby mountain for the next stop, Ek Phnom, an 11th century Khmer temple sitting atop the mountain. I'm told that theres only 386 steps here :-P We once again parked near a food stall and soon after I began my climb. Someone tried getting me to go into the caves at the base, but I had had enough of caves from this trip. Looking at the lion flanked base and its giant stairway going straight up I found myself stalling and went over to a tiny tower in ruins near the stairs before telling myself it was time to climb.

    I really wanted to get a photo of the steps right but with people on them that isn't easy so I patiently waited till a moment when everyone was out of the way and took some. On my way up, a lady walking up along side laughed at me and said I was going to fast and to take it easy. Probably good advice, but these long legs can only go so slow. Panting about half way up I get a view of a tower creeping into view over the steps which gives me what I need to get to the top.

    At the top, I sat down next to a couple who seemed local just visiting for the day and enjoyed the view looking back at the steps I'd climbed. We chatted with the little we could for a bit  before being joined by a man for California who'd told me about the caves earlier. I guess he wanted a second look up here. I really loved of the flags put up here swayed in the wind with a view of the surrounds all around it. I stayed here for a bit watching before everyone parted and I went inside the complex.

    Inside, the five towers come into clear with under the shining sun. Following the usual center tower inside four others, they were all in various condition and had unique things about them. I did a walk around I think 3 times trying to get good shots of the four outer towers before doing anything else. I really wanted to get them right, as the sky for once was perfect for pictures up here with patchy clouds and blue sky. Eventually I made another round this time going inside each of the outer four. going around here was very easy as the mountain top was no larger than a few houses next to each other. Up here the towers were really great as weather and light added to there allure for this moment and I was enjoying it. Inside them was usually rather simple and dark, however inside the first one you enter coming up the ceiling is about to cave in it looks like and someone I'm afraid is going to be quite unlucky. Eventually I made my way to the center tower although the inside was completely filled with a small shrine with a buddha image. The outside was great though with the best carvings that went all the way to the top. Here I also ran into Connie again, the same girl from the restaurant the night before which was funny. I was just about to head down but stayed and chatted a few minutes before doing so. This was 3 times running into each other in 2 different cities, in as many days...

     Getting to the bottom fast as going down is always easier, I have lunch and a drink before heading to what I assumed was my final stop and most anticipated, the bamboo train. The ride was down dirt roads and countryside again, and cutting through temples to get to the othersides road was common. This time however, we stopped and Bon pointed out something in the tree's. It's a bird, it's a plane. it's... Hundred's a bats!? I stared as the fruit bats hung on to the tree, and if that wasn't enough I then hears bon say " I'm going to make them fly ". This was broad daylight and so strange for me, but with clappin and branch shaking it all went to hell and they were flying everywhere. I had my camera facing up in amazement capturing them as they floated past the clouds creating real life silouetted bat signals that would make batman proud. It was incredible! I was loving it and I even went to second tree to get more. After that thinking I'd had enough, A tuk tuk pulls in with someone else, and who was it but bonnie lol. I guess our drivers follow the same route and know the same little things to show people. I stayed and watched her show which ended up being far grander, with 50+ hitting the air through the clouds creating some of the most amazing shots so far....

    Exchanging emails with connie after 4 meetings just seemed fair as I'd done with many others along the way, and proceeded to the last leg of my trip. It was a decent trip of  maybe 30 minutes on back roads, but when we arrived I knew immediately this was going to be fantastic. We sat down and grabbed something to drink at the stalls and waited for our "trains" to be ready. I could see the small twin bed looking wooden trains being set up on the rails for us. We loaded on the motorbike and I sat down passing the camera for photo's. When we started moving as the engine turn the pulley linked to the actual train axle, I got chills of excitement. The train was off, with me on it in the open air...

    Becoming just fixed on the trip, I looked ahead seated and just felt the wind brush by as we picked up speeds not that much slower than an actual train. The rails were so old they were separated at parts creating a hell of a bump each time, adding to the adventure. At one point I stood for a while holding onto the bike to look over the sides, another I turned away from the speeding ground in front to have a picture taken at full speed ahead. It was actually incredibly relaxing, even closing my eyes for a bit and just enjoying the sounds and the wind.

    One thing that really had me amazed was when to my surprise I look up to see another train coming our way on the same track, there being only the one. Everyone slows down and to my delight the lighter car has to take themselves apart. Sicne we had the bike, I got to watch as the engine was taken off, then the top, and then the axle's just lifted off the track all within 60 seconds. We kept moving soon after through nice tree's and countryside until we eventually hit our stop about 20 minutes later. Since we put the motorbike on, most of our return journey was done by the train. It was truly a fun and once in a lifetime experience. Made even more memorable knowing that in just 2 years, Cambodia will have it's first major train line complete that will take over and dismantle this track. In just that short time, many livelihoods will be in trouble as well as a great past time lost. I'm truly glad I got to do it now and hope the people here don't wait until the last second to look for new work and leave themselves in deep trouble.

    We took the bike off and got, speeding over the tracks and back onto the road. Today was a fantastic day, but the past two days were made ten times better by my great driver and buddy Bon. He tells me on the way back that there's one more place he can take me if I stay another day here, and although I was planning on leaving I agree and wait for what he has in store tomorrow...