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Battambang - day 3 01/23/2010
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    Staying up on the computer last night I decided to sleep in and didn't get up unti around 10am. I had to meet Bon at 3pm so I went and got breakfast and then spent quite a bit at the internet cafe getting things in order. I still had time even after 2 hours on the PC so I went back to the room for a bit and then decided to eat again around 2pm before heading out. It was really just a morning of trying to keep busy before heading out one last day with the good old Bon. Cheerful as ever when I meet him downstairs we don't waste anytime and got going. It didn't take long before we were back on countryside roads, but these ones were different and much more rocky almost like pure gravel. The ride was bumpy as hell but fun as always chatting away. The ride was quite long and much farther away than I thought but eventually we past a small village where Bon was actually from, hence his knowing about this out of the way temple. Right past the market we pulled into the temple of Prasat Ba Set. The first thing I notice is the crumbling tower out front, the second if that the rest looks like some stuck a bomb in it. Well turns out they did, as this being a temple deep in the countryside it was a prime target for destruction by the Khmer rouge in the late 70's. Many temples suffered this fate, but this is the first that I'd seen. There was one side that appeared to be in OK condition, but on closer inspection you see that its only the fact that its filled with stone thats keeping it upright. Bon takes me to an inscription thats hidden in the rubble that I wouldn't have seen on my own, then leaves me on my own. Not knowing where to start, I wonder to the sides to get an over all view of the size.
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    After going over to the column covered grass that lay on each side covering probably 100ft on each side, I can see that whats left doesn't show its once true size. I was drawn back to the center tower and after doing a small circle I go inside. Although nothing remains, the perfect square cut out that is now the top of the tower. Looking up I can see the clear blue sky through the opening and really appreciate. All the light coming in created something so different from the dark towers with only tiny glares coming through.
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     During my circle around the central structure or whats left of it, I notice thats there actually some very interesting things here. In the piles sit perfectly preserved stone lintels and columns, five headed naga's lying in leaves that once adorned the corners, and in rare occasions some even still stuck in there original spot. I'm really come to love this early 11th century my pet monster lintel style, and seeing 2 more great examples here was really great. It was at the front however that I really saw something interesting. There were large slabs of stone large enough to be doorway colums covered in flower like designs, something I had never seen before. In the pile stood all types of carving that I hadn't seen, and it was really a shame I couldn't investigate further. This temple might hold real value in finding out something new about the khmer but I don't think even the Aspara authorites have really given these small countryside sights much time, and they probably just don't have the manpower and or money to do so.
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     This place really had a great feel to it, although nothing special when you look around and see markets, tropical trees, clear skies and just a real country feel. It also made me realize that Now matter how many places I visit that have made it " Onto the map ", there are hundreds more that don't and remain only locally known. It was nice coming here though knowing that I was one of a very small number of foreigners every to come here. I was he only one here when I came, and the people were quite shocked to see me. So thanks to Bon I had a nice little elite visit that I really enjoyed.
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    I had every intention of heading out, but then got really bold and decided to go inside the mess of falling stone and see for myself what it was like. Inside, I was stunned, excited, and yet a bit nervous at the same time. The wall of th remaining buildings was literally resting half fallen against another wall with stones above my head weighing tons just barely resting on each other enough to stay up. I reall wanted to get some good pictures but I kept looking up at the giant stones above. It made my 2 minutes inside feel like 30. Fun and exciting though I probably wouldn't trust a long term stay. on right push and thats coming down.
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    Back on the bike, I'm told theres a well next door so take a short drive to the other side of the temple ruins to find a giant reservoir that once held water for the temple complex or city if it had one. It was of decent size and the green swamp like water inside gave a vague impression of its once great look. The line of trees behind it really gave it a nice background, although it really just helped me get a more complete image of the place.
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    After a few minutes we were back on the move, assuming we were going back but then he asked me whether I wanted to see some rice fields which didn't sound like a roller coaster but hell its something extra to do. A winding dirt road and a few minutes later was come upon vast fields of tan and green. It was actually really beautiful and staring down the fresh green field I really felt peaceful with the breeze. Bon tells me that the more wealthy farmers, relative of coarse, can get the crop to grow 3 times a year instead of 2 since they can irrigate the crops. That was why I was looking at only one fresh plot and the rest nothing growing until next season. My facorite thing was the many scarecrows in the fields of green poking up every now and then. Swaying in the wind, they just had a way of making you smile. As we were leaving Bon actually ran into a cousin on a giant tractor like wagon carrying loads of rice. He asks if I want to ride up top on the rice, but I decline really as it was getting late and wanted to start the ride back. We ended up stopping at the cousins though were I went out back to find more bats in the trees. These ones were almost pets, kept up there so the villagers could use the droppings as fertilizer, some of the best so they tell me. I'm still buzzing from the bats yesterday! How amazing was that?
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     All in all a laid back day till the end and a nice way to end my time here. Going to miss have Bon around, as he's easily the best guy I've had as a driver. He actually gave me his email and I might contact him sometime if I'm ever back. For now its the long ride back and then dinner. Think I'm going on a tiny back track to Sisophon 2 hours north near the Thai border for another big motorbike excursion and perhaps a hope into Thailand for a new cambodian visa coming back. Think I'm going to stay here a bit longer, just not sure whether its easier to extend in Phnom Penh or border hop... Well see.
 


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