Up right around 5am to get ready for the sunrise, I got dressed and surprisingly awake went out and headed towards the door of the guesthouse. By then the others where already on there way out aswell, and we all met outside right on time. The three drivers were already waiting, so we jumped on the backs of the motorbikes in the pitch black of pre-dawn, and started our ascent up the mountain to Preah Vihear. The bikes started up the winding dirt roads of the mountain, and are journey had begun. All too early the temp. was far below what I had gotten used to down in southern Cambodia. As we fly on the bikes at high speeds zipping around corners, the icy cold chill of the wind sends shivers down my spine. As the bikes roar there way up, the wind blasts every inch of the body only covered by shorts and T-shirt. As I shiver, I find that I love every minute it. Still dark, going past the views of the towns below starting to look like ants as we get higher and higher, the wind blasting me just seems to make me feel alive.

     Adrenaline flowing, I mentally start pumping myself up for more, hoping he goes faster and pushing more ice cold wind my way. As we approach the top, the road turns very rocky and I find myself leaving the seat now and then as the bikes hits the hard bumps. Stopping, I knew we where there, but where that was I had no idea. Still pitch black, the three of us get of the bikes and look around. We arrange at 9am pick-up giving us 3 hours to explore. We head straight towards the sillouette of a wall we can tell is stone from a temple. We can barely see it but know its there. As we step up the many stairs, we see the sun starting to peek through the clouds. Ahead of us where a massive set of ruined stone stairs leading even higher, and we decide to get to the top and see the sunrise there. It seemed like where skipping things at first, but as we passed the stairs we realized we couldn't see anything clearly and weren't missing anything, we were simply going to start from the top and work are way down after the light came up. After reaching the top of stairs, more stone came into view, and another set of massive steps in stone. Seeing even yet a fourth level ahead, we now knew that this was a temple that went up in four tiers all in a line to the very top. We saw a magnificent view from tier three, so thats were we stayed. We lost Caleb however, as the cold was really getting to him, and he hid behind some stone to get out of the wind. As me and Tim approached the edge, we got more than we could have ever asked for. Dawn starts to break, the clouds in formations only the heavens knew before. We stare, getting blasted by wind, and just stay in awe at what lay ahead.

     I wish I could say that I had a care in the world about how cold I was, but I can't because I didn't. The only this that I knew was this, that I was watching the most beautiful thing I had seen in as long as I can remember and I just didn't know why. What I did know was that this moment was the start of a unforgettable time up here, and thats all that mattered. The view along with the fact that I was sharing it with a friend was great, but it was the bodily feeling that made it all complete. Not to mention that we where alone up here, making things all the more amazing. To have a place like this to yourself is just too good to be true. As I looked on into the clouds, pelted by the lie bringing wind I'm forced to feel it. It's not just a mental feeling now, it's coupled with a physical feeling of truly being alive. I can't fully explain it, but in that moment I had not a care in the world. No amount of cold, no amount of fear from falling of the cliff below, getting sick etc, nothing was taking this away. For these moments I was free from the confines of my usual thinking, a moment I'd searched for my whole life. Any instant the feeling could pass, and holding on until that moment was all that I was doing.

    As the sun seemed to have disappeared behind heavy clouds, we smiled and painfully turned away. We head into the temple that was the fourth and final part and headed towards the back to start at the end before the light truly revealed what we had waiting for us. I rushed for the back just for that reason, while Tim waited inside. Upon reaching the back after ducking through a small stone window and over rubble, I came upon part two of the sunrise I'll never forget. I ran back and got Tim, who slowly followed me and when we both got to the back he stopped, thanked me, and we both headed for the mass of rocks at the very edge of the mountain overlooking the fully round disk of the bright orange sun.

     Climbing the rocks, stopping to take a photo of a rather strange round stone structure looking like a well, I made it to the best viewing point the entire mountain had to offer. Just as the feeling probably would have went away, it was fully regenerated 10 fold, and thrown into over drive as I stood looking thousands of feet down and then up towards the full dawn. Wind still gusting, there was never a moment I was more lost in than this. A state of trance was not far away, but I was fully aware of everything. This was everything to me. We stayed there for a long time, moving from rock to rock, sometimes sitting and taking it all in. As tim went to the edge for a photo, I shot one of the rocks he was on enjoying the moment as much as me. As I sat on a rock with the colors behind me, I had my picture taken in full glory of the moment. Nothing in the world could have come together more perfect than this did, and although I knew that once I left this rock, this moment would never be here again. Putting myself in it 100%, losing myself in it and just appreciating it while it was here was all I could do, and I did just that.

    Finally leaving knowing full well the outcome, it was time to actually start the original purpose of being here, the temple of Preah Vihear. What I already knew was that my time here was the full package, to me Preah Vihear will go hand and hand with mountain top views it brings, and the two can not be separated. The temple will either make things even more wonderful, or will be overrun by the mountain top sunrise. Either way, nothing can be ruined. Before getting far we started to notice military troops walking the temple grounds, confirming the fact that the on going conflict between cambodians and thais here is still ongoing. We made our way into the temple, the final one if heading from the top and not backwards like us, and went inside. Lit now by the dawn light, stepping in the first thing that hits me is a real " wow ". Not because of any massive carvings or detail, but because one half of the tmeple is pristine while the other has been blown to bits by TNT, or so it looks. As I walk around through the middle of the wall that surround the center building, I can't help but admire the genius it must have taken to get all this stone so far up here.

     Walking around, I find to my surprise I'm still buzzing from earlier although not exact, remnants remain giving me a smile that won't leave and jumpy like a kid with a never-edning bag of candy. I circle around the inner area of the temple, trying to find its little hidden gems. Moving to the side of the temple still in tact, I am really taken back the every so prefect golden light given to the temple by the rising sun. The gift that keeps on giving, this ball of gas just keeps dropping me gems that I take without thinking twice. On all sides in different amounts, the stone is graced by the light.

     The space betweem the center and the walls are lined with columns, remnants of the left side of the inner wall. The other sides still remains, allowing you to walk fully between the wall. The space here is really something although its the entire package that I was really impressed with and everything and anything was getting bonus points right now. I was in a mood that couldn't be critical, a very strange change for me indeed.

     Walking around eventually leads me to a tiny corner where I slip by and call Tim over. In the corner is tons of pieces of stone that still needed to be put back in place but never were, all laying against the wall hidden away. Among these was a giant five headed naga or snake, in full detail and all original. I really was amazed by it and that these actually graced the corners of this structure.

     Leaving the top level and making our way to the third, stepping out gives the view of the all to impressive third tier and its buildings. It looks even more impressive than the top, mostly because of its fantastic preservation. The perfectly straight stone path leads to it, and staring down I remember that that straight path goes from tier to tier all the way down. Before stepping off, I notice a lion that is just being silhouetted perfectly by the sun directly behind it, and do my best to capture it. I do my best, and then we begin heading down the path to start the next chapter.

     Once at the entrance we could see our MIA friend, and we stop and chat. He was just really messed up by the cold so skipped the sunrise and just started exploring on his own when it got warming after the sun was up. My heart truly wept for what he missed.

      Looking around, I could see some amazing things that had happened to the walls overtime. They looked like they were melting. as thee ground had shifted and the rocks were holding each other in place by the corners of blocks pressing against each other. It was quite amazing to see. Looking back at where I came, I saw a building, but what I really saw was the rocks with x-ray vision, my mind just seeing what it wanted to. Soon after Tim pulled out a box of Ritz crackers, cheese and bread from his bag. This guy was amazing and the most prepared person travelling I'd met. Breakfast was on him, and we took a break here.

Paragraph.

     As I've about to move on down to the 2nd tier, I see the other 2 are not so ready. They want to head back to the top one last time before heading down the long stairs and knowing they won't be going back up. I stare laughing to myself as if I had thought going back up to be impossible. I raced to catch up and get back to my favorite spot in the world now, the rocks over looking the entire plain, and what once over looked my sunrise. Getting there, I all go close to the edge to finally see whats below here, and see thats it sheer cliff that drops straight down so far that it blurs at the bottom. It was great to see it in full light, and I walked around for a bit on the rocks. By accident, I found a small opening in the rocks that looked like cave, which led out onto a small flat terrace jetting out from the side of the mountain. Under here shielded from the wind, a different kind a wonder came over me. A silence came, looking down the mountains side. Wind still gusting, as I can see but not feel as I stare for minutes at a small bush hanging for dear life growing on the side of the rock face. To the right under the rock thats overhead is a small shrine, and the start of a barb wire fence, the first real evidence of fortification I'd seen here. The view from here was wonderful, and a truly great sight. After some time, we head back down and this time decide to go for the 2nd to last level and start our exploring there.

     Exiting the doorway, I see to my right a small tower with a full grown tree growing right out of it, vines crawling all over one side. I walk over and around it, really enjoying it as I always do with structures that are so intertwined with nature.

     Not to long after it's down the path, looking down to the temple awaiting me below. It's hallways go left and right from its center, and the arches over them from the front give the appearance that its has pikes going up from its sides. The view of it from up top is stunning and I can't wait to get to it. From here on, more and more soldiers start to appear on the paths heading down. Tim is as always engaging them into broken Khmer which they seem to enjoy so much. Making down there is some nice touches to it, but it was obvious from above that the structure only went to the sides and wouldn't have much to see. The doorways were adorned with men tugging on a snake and elephants and animals helping in the action. The other side was in ruin, but the approach down hill had all the view I needed from this tier. The beauty of this place was incredible, going down was bitter sweet as I wanted to keep seeing more, but was still buzzing over what I had seen and didn't want to leave.

      About halfway down the path leading to the bottom tier, to the right was a large water basin that once held water for the temple complex here. How it was filled way up here I don't know, but I can see how there filling it now. A man is inside pumping water in from below to give it back its feel and better restore its original look. I go inside and poke around, loving the view from inside. Outside the pool, I talk with a solider and laugh a bit, and he lets us take his photo which really just shocked me. They were just so laid back and friendly.

     Further down, I reach the spot where our moto's dropped us and see the flags of UNESCO flying high, letting everyone know that this is a World Heritage Site. The bottom level is just a small entrance way and in bad shape, but I understood because we had done it backwards, basically the best first.

     But there was more down here then we thought, as we could see stairs going much further down to the bottom of the mountain. We started down, and about halfway reached two giant snakes lining the stairway, each with unique features that were just awesome.

     Not to much farther down was the sign showing the place was cleared of mines, something I've seen all to often and will see again. Just 4 years ago, over 600 mines were still active here from the Vietnam war making all travel here risking everything. It's truly crazy to think about, but I'm really glad that this place is now open and I was able to have this time here. Down here its all too real just how much preparation there is for war with Thailand as bunkers with machine guns line the mountains edge fully armed with solders. Being up top things seemed so calm, no evidence of anything serious, just s nice temple. But here, you truly feel like the temple is just inside a military base, and so are you. From the bottom its obvious we went down quite a bit, and that only from tier 1 to basically tier 0 since its ground level. Its here that I hit the entrance sign for Preah Vihear temple, proving that the way I traveled this was truly odd indeed. I didn't even enter where I thought I did.

     Down here at the bottom level was at first what I though to be shops for visitors, but soon realize its for all the soldiers and there families stationed here. Kids are everywhere, dozens of off duty soldiers eat and watch a movie. It was truly evident here that we had just walked into a military outpost and no one cared. not only that, they were all too kind and happy to show us around and interact with us and the children. Cambodia is truly amazing and this experience right now will never happen again. If I had in any way had basically tried to do what happened here, I'd have been shot back home. But here, I get nothing but smiles and the shaking of hands with solders.

     Back up top, we go to meet our moto's and pass some remnants of the times when mines littered the area. We pass more bunkers and more solders, but never feel in harms way. But the reality is that whether I wanted to believe it our not, just last April men were killed here as shots were fired from the Thai side. I probably shouldn't be able to say this, but I can really now say that I have walked a battlefield in a military base for hours without even knowing it. I had known about the skirmishes, but coming in the dark allowed me to make it to the top without seeing the real deal before the temple. Leaving and riding down the mountain on the moto's at full speed, we pass the same mountains views and a nice breeze, but this time see hundreds of soldiers lining the sides in camps, a truly unique way to end a truly unique place.....

    Back at the village, Caleb goes and tries and find a ride to Koh Ker and do a very hard ride back to Siem Reap in a circle. I want to tag along, but already had agreed to split a car back to Anlong Veng with Tim. He slept a while and I followed Caleb around town a bit passing some kids playing what is basically volleyball but with a small soccer sized ball thats hit with the feet only. We then had breakfast, and soon after he was off on his motorbike. Around 2 hours later, we got in our car and were going to be off ourselves, headed back to Anlong Veng. During the ride back, I start to think about Preah Vihear, and realize that I'll never know when the great eelings left, as it happens so slowly. Only thinking about it now do I realize how far away it is know. I can close my eyes an almost bring myself back.. Almost. The ride is short and getting out in Anlong Veng, I go to a recommended guesthouse and get a room. Tim ends up coming back from checking the buses and decided hes going to split the room with me and take the bus back to Siem Reap in the morning instead of taking off this afternoon. We sit in the room a few minutes getting our things settled before heading out for lunch and the sites. As I sit on my bed, I feel the breeze from the fan as its passes me on its swing, and the cool air for a slight second has me in a deja vu mentally back in Preah Vihear.

    After negotiating some moto's, we head off to see the only local sights all be them a whole different type. Anlong Veng was the last stronghold of the Khmer Rouge and on of the most heavy mined during the war. The sights here are modest, being Pol Pot's grave and house as well as his officers. As we start the journey, we go to Ta Mok's house, on of the highest in rank during the genocide here. They want two dollars to go down the road which leaves a bad taste with us and we decide to skip it. A few minutes further down the road was his grave. This had my jaw drop. We rode into a small temple and find a large decorated pagoda with the stone grave inside. I stare shocked and almost hurt, a man responsible for killing so many given such a respectful burial... It made no sense, but in these parts little does. Perhaps the fear is still strong here, but to give this man this and vwith a view of the surrounds for all time just seems wrong.

     Leaving here, we head about ten minutes uphill on paved roads, passing some nice scenery until hitting a small strip of houses. We pull off the road, and our drivers take us in the back yard of a house and down a dirt path where we come to the resting place of Pol Pot himself. At least not a pagoda, the simple tin roofed place is probably still too befitting of a man who killed 3 million people. Here, incents line the front and a proper garden planted by locals. There's even a small shrine erected by a man who claims pol pot gave him lottery numbers in his dream. Its all too much for me really. Tim talks about it with out drivers who in broken english just curse him up and down, pol pot that is. We don't stay long at either place, as curiousity brought us here but upon coming giving it any more time seems disrespectfuk in it self.

     Me and tim break here, as he just doesn't seem interested at all and almost seems frustrated to have wasted money. I on the other hand wanted to go further and complete the trip finishing with pol pot's house, so I gave him the key and would meet him back at the room. The ride to the house was the most insane trip I'd ever taken. Into the mountains on bike with no road, just bashing through buses and bumping over rocks making the bike almost tip many times. After an hour of up and down, wrong turns and getting lost out here, the ride was fun and adventurous but all to real. The fact was that this place was heavily mined and although technically mostly de-mined, the key word is mostly. Getting lost was not safe, and I allowed myself some real nervous thoughts here. But eventaully, up our final path of heavy ass hurting rocks, I came across the isolated house. Really some homeless have had better digs, and this surprised me. As a communist leader, I pictured a dictator with lavish things but this was true to form. Nothing but a small bunker like house with low ceilings and a balcony overlooking the mountains. Inside was dreary and cold, too small for anyone to live I think. But it had a powerful affect on me as I realized from this that this man must have actually believed everything he did, all the killing, was actually for a cause he really believed in. Overlooking the mountains, I ponder it a bit before getting on the bike for the long trip back.

     In town again, I enter the room to ind him asleep but woke up when the door opened. We rested up before going and grabbing a few beers and watching the news for a while before going to grab dinner. We chatted away and caught up and my little extra trip. Later we watched some video's on my laptop, Tom and jerry cartoons, and soon realized I probably had to many. All in all one of the most emotion filled days I've ever had. Every end of the specturm was hit today, every single but of it. Tomorrow it's back to Siem reap as a junction to the rest of cambodia...