Sleep was a bit rough, as for some reason my alarm clock, a new one that I bought to take AA's since the other either fell out or was taken from my day bag. Since it shines gold I have a feeling someone thought it was worth something. Either way, it went off around 2am and really through me off having me thinking it was time to get up. Realizing it was a mistake, I did my best to get more rest until 7am when me and Tim got ready, had a quick meal and headed to the bus stop. The bus was there and we didn't have to wait long for the bus to become packed and ready to go. The drive was only about 2 hours and the same really as the way there, with me passing out every now and then. When we arrived all too quickly, I said my goodbye's to Tim who was heading to Phnom Penh and grabbed a tuk tuk to go once again to Okay guesthouse. As always they immediately ask if I want to go to the temples, I say no but deep down I really did want to go again. So much more to see.... Arriving at the guesthouse, I go upstairs to check in and although happy to see me they tell me there full. But right after I'm told to wait, and they quickly check if someone had left and within a few minutes I got a key a smirk telling me I was lucky but they were glad to have me again. I threw my bag in the room, grabbed my camera and went downstairs to pay the driver. But in my head I already knew what I was going to do, and instead of giving him the dollar, I negotiated a daily rate to see what I had I had missed before. And so it began, Angkor day 4. A quick trip to the ticket booth, performing the ritual of line waiting again before setting off towards Angkor Thom. At this point one thing is clear, I've become an addict in every sense with these Khmer temples. I can't get enough of them, and when I'm not seeing them I want to be back. While I'm there, the feeling is so incredible, but never like the first time I saw them and crave that extreme WOW factor I had the first few. Although a horrible analogy I think it's a funny one and it fits, so here goes. I feel like a child ruptured with something like Pokemon, but instead of trying to catch em all I'm trying to see em all. :-P

Baksei Chamkrong

This tower on a step pryamid was built by Harshavarman to house statues of Shiva and his spouse Devi. The outer wall that surrounded it no longer remains, but some things were restored by later kings. An important inscription lines the doorways praising kings from Jayavarman II onwards as well as lengendary kings.

     Now I had a few places in mind that I pointed to him on the map from my book, but we where headed first to Angkor Thom. My guide book had shown me a few places that I had missed totally which was really embarrassing, but the worst was when I was flipping through the pages for bayon and saw dozens of things I hadn't. Turns out in my rush to the faces, I had in fact without knowing it skipped the entire outer wall and most of the center. At this point I knew I had to go back, and finsish what I started days ago. Approaching the gate, I saw to my left a beautiful pyramid temple and basically yelled stop to the driver. I had without knowing it actually given myself three places to see, as they all lay in this small area. Walking towards my golden step like pyramid, I could feel the sense of adventure building up that I've come to crave. It looked so amazing, I just couldn't wait to climb it.  Four distinct tiers all far enough back from each other to give a look like nothing I'd seen yet. It was truly something.

     Getting to the steps, I stared them down fighting the urge to start them right away. I walk around the entire tower seeing it from both the left and right angles. The side views really gave it an edge, and I was already getting my moneys worth the first thing of the day.

     The view from the top was great, looking down the dirt path I'd taken to get here. The entire place was surrounded by tree cover, really giving it a lost feel when in the back. Once I had my look around the top level, passing by someone reading a book in the shade really taking in the place, I went into the center of the tower. The view from inside to the top was great, once again there was a hole in the top giving a great spiritual feeling as the light bursts down on you and feel the warmth of its rays. The sides of the doorway are littered with ancient khmer writings, one of the few of these I've seen. There quite rare, and why even today little is known about the Khmer lifestyle due to the little written record.

    Heading out, I look back to see the man still reading his book high up in the tower from a distance....

Prasat Bei

This temple is one of the few where the name actually matches the temple, as Prasat Bei means " Three towers " and it is just that. Consisiting of three side by side towers that probably were never finished. Two of the reach no higher than the doorways, and not all have been fully decorated.

Thma Bay Kaek

Little remains but a square platform. This as well as Prasat Bei were both built by Yasovarman I in the 10th century.

     Leaving the tower with a very pleased feeling, I head through the tree cover to another temple in sight a bit further back from the road. This simple yet elegant temple consists of three towers, although two look to have never been completed, since little stone is around to suggest there collapse. Sitting side by side on a raised platform, they have a nice feel about them as you appraoch. The main door has a commanding presence as you get near, and entering I once again have the privledge of looking up into a massive sky light.

     The two side structures are great due to the fact that they have no roof at all, giving you an uninterrupted view of the sky above. One side is completely clear with the blue sky all thats there while the other has great tree cover, giving the exact opposite feel. Overall this simple place is worth the visit and glad I noticed it.

     Directly in front of it are some really unimpressive ruins that have really nothing left to see. A small structure probably in the pathway to the temple it's in front of as an entrance, its only feature now is a massive linga representing shiva inside. Just beyond that theres a small platform where something once stood but where nothing remains, and to its left a small structure that holds the feet of a statue in its center, but looks more life a well now than anything else.

    Going back to the tuk tuk, we head back toward the main gate where I pass the familar struggle of statues off gods and demons yank the snake, something I've come to know as meaning I'm about to enter Angkor Thom. Pulling up to the Bayon, I look again at the wonderous structure I've come to love and can't wait to dive inside. This time entering through the side, the first thing I see is a serene looking buddha statue in the center of the outer wall corridors that I'd soon be walking.

      As I made my way around, It only tooks seconds for me to see what I was stupid enough to miss the first time. Masses of carved stone mark every inch of the inside of the outer wall. People ready to fight all over, elephants charging into battle, men on horses, even a scene looking like a cruxifiction lining every ince of the walls which take up to 10 minutes to get around each side even ignoring the carvings. Axes, arrows, swords, any thing battle related you could think of lined these walls. The carvings here are of a standard not even seen at Angkor. These are pristine, and the best condition ones I'd seen to date. I walked a full circle, really square, around the outer wall and took in ever scene. It would take far to long and to many pictures to show them all, so I've come up with what I think are the best to sum up my 45 minutes walk around the wall.

     It really did take me a long time to make it through the outside, and by the time I was headed inside I had lost a little taste for them having seen so many. The inner wall gallery would be more brief and not as in depth, but I'd get the idea before moving on. Right inside, looking to the sides I notice the mass of stone and the small buildings I believe were once libraries all over. I can't beleive I had skipped this as I'm usually so good about seeing everything, but looking ahead to the mountain of faces its once again easy to see how.

     Inside, I marvel at the maze like qualities that dot the interior at the bottom of the towers. Left brings you out to the right somehow, then back to the center, travelling far down one end and then turning somehow brings you to where you started... Getting lost in its maze like qualites is fun for a bit before hitting the inner walls. The reliefs here are just as detialed. but less war and mostly gods, yogi's, dancers, with the occasional battle here and there.

     At the top, I wonder around once again at home in array of faces, finding a place to sit in the shade for a moment and stare at them. The mass of people however doesn't really lend to reflection so before my memory up here gets replaced, I decided to head on. It was a good thing though, because time was short and it already being 1pm with so much left to see, I had to get moving. Not eating yet however, I stop for some rice before going on to the rest of Angkor Thom.

Suro Prat Towers

A series of 12 towers lining the side of the royal square. 6 sit on the left of the road leading to the royal palace while 6 more sit to the right. Behind them are the Khleangs, adding to overall feel. Built in the 13th century by Indravarman II.

The Khleangs

Built much earlier than the Prat towers that sit in front of them, the khleangs are from the late 10th century to ealry 11th under Jayavirvarman for the north, and Suryavarman I for the south. There use remains unclear as do the towers in front of them, but that should only add the mystery of the visit.

     Walking down the long road past where the elephant terrace is but on the oppostie side, I enter a field of towers that were really incredible. The first was really in bad shape, crumbling and very much unlike the others. This made it unique however, and making it to the back gave a great feel as stone met tree in a battle that the tree wins for sure.

     Moving from the first and looking on, I can see nearly all of them I thought in a line that really made them feel like one giant temple complex rather than individual towers. Moving along, behind the next few towers was the southern khleang. I knew from the book there was a northern one also, so I could now picture how the place was. Six towers on this side, and six on the other, each with a large building behind them known as the khleangs. From the front when the temples and roads where at there finest, the sight of these towers all in a row in front of massive buildings in perfect symetry must have been marvelous. Even now as I stare down the building and the towers together, I can get a small sense of what those people must have felt. Inside the long building, little remains but the wood keeping it from coming in on itself, but makes a great place to take in some shade and get great views of the towers from its windows.

     Outside, I notice a building not listed at all in my overly in depth guidebook and decide to check it out. While not much more than a platform remains with a modern buddha underneath a new structure, I liked the visit just not knowing what it was. Could have even been a walkway to the khleang, but I just wasn't sure as it was farther away than it should be for that.

     Back out front in the line of towers, I come out to the large basin of water still semi filled with water. The towers sitting in front of it give a pristine view and I really want to take this all in, so I hope over a small wall and sit directly in front for a few minutes. Walkin away afterwards, I realize that I no longer have my book, and although I make a vain attempt to go ind it, I knew that it was gone. I loved that book, as its advice was well worth its cheap price and immediately knew I'd negotiate one just as cheap or cheaper and get another one. But it didn't change that I was a little annoyed to have lost it. But that view.....

     Heading around to enter the north khleang, I pass a really terrific tower with a tree growing in the center that somehow hasn't damaged it one bit, in fact I'm not even sure the tree even touches the stone. It just sits dead center giving by far the best shot of on of these towers I'd gotten.

    The northern khleang followed the exact same pattern as the south, however the outside was in better condition and gave a better glimpse into what these two buildings looked like that flanked the one time road to the royal palace. I walked around inside for a bit before exiting the side and working my way towards the buildings I could see ahead.

Preah Pithu

A series of five temples in a wooded setting, although only two were built together. The complex consisted originally of large ponds surrounding some forming large moats although little evidence of that remains. Each has its own unique feel and worth the forest stroll. Some erected during Suryavarman II, others by Jayavarman VIII.

     My knowledge now more limited without the book I'd come to rely on, I knew only that I was entering an area of 5 temples, a complex of them all close together. The first of these was a large walled temple tower with crumbling walls. Piles of stone lined the walls, showing just how massive it must have been. I climbed to the top and could see four of the five, and now had a great idea of where I was going which really helped.

     The the 3 towers where very similar, but each had its own unique touches, One had amazing detail over the doorways and on its sides of aspara's, another had a wonderful tree line overhead which gave it a reall nice view when you stared towards the top. Yet another had a platform that it sat upon giving great views of the surrounds. I could feel myself rushing here, but these were nothing great spectacular and I was giving them each a little time and then moving on. I knew that I had other things to see that were a good drive and I was determined to see them. So I kept my steady pace until the fifth and final temple in the complex which was by far the most interesting for various reasons.

     As I approached, I was given a real nice view of a tree flanked small building, and soon after found myself lost in the jungle like aspects of the final temple. It was leaving it however where the real action began. I saw someone taking photos of monkeys on a temple, and so wanted to do the same. When I walked over however they all came within inches of legs and started making noise and poking at my pants. This made for a few cool photo's, but these guys can be really dangerous when they want to and so backed away rather nervously after. Heading back to the road, I passed something very unique. A large paltform with nothing on top, but completely surrounded by small round pillars. Nothing in khmer building seemed to explain this, and I had to chalk it up as a mystery for now.

Leper King Terrace

Most likely built during the riegn of Jayavarman VII and added to during Jayavarman VIII's alterations to the royal palace. This terrace sits near the royal square but more independent than the other structures. It's named after the 15th century statue that sits atop it, although from a much later period.

     Back on the road, I simply walked across seeing that I was directly across from where I wanted to go and my last two sights in Angkor Thom before having actually completed this massive ancient city. Somewhere between here and the road however I bashed by big tow against a stone and really cut it open. Nothing that couldn't wait until I was back, I had things to see. I made my way across into the trees of the other side and came across the terrace of the leper king. Now it actually is the end of the elephant terrace where this starts, but having though it was the same thing before missed it. This place was great, the reliefs were wonderful and the statue of a naked man on the top was really stunning in its uniqueness. The terrace is actually named after that statue, but for someone with lepresy to have been king would really surprise me. I just think they would have viewed him as an easy target and someone would have usurped him. Along the side, I realized I could actually go in between the walls which was terrific though not for the caustrophobic. The inside held amazing stone work like seven headed snakes and five headed horses. Before I could make it all the way around, I came upon a few kids sleeping on the floor. I didn't want to step over them and felt bad, so I let them be and kept going the other way.

Tep Pranam

A ginat buddha is worshipped here by a nearby modern temple, although the buildings are nothing but platforms now and little remians.

     Sitting deeper in the trees behind the leper king terrace is the ruins of tep Pranam. A modern temple still worships a buddha statue on the ruined temple platform, but nothing remains of the building. The pathway once leading to it is however still there, flanked by by nagas and lions. I give it a quick lookover before heading on.

Preah Pithu

A series of five temples in a wooded setting, although only two were built together. The complex consisted originally of large ponds surrounding some forming large moats although little evidence of that remains. Each has its own unique feel and worth the forest stroll. Some erected during Suryavarman II, others by Jayavarman VIII.

     Just a bit further behind I made my way to the temple I could see in the distance, hoping it was the right tower and my last stop here as I didn't wat to be lost. It was almost 3:30 giving me only 2 hours to see me remaining 4 sights. But as soon as I saw it I knew Iw would not be rushing here. A massive tower in semi ruins sits nestled up with trees and trunks bulging from its base. Staring at the top the view you get is other worldly. Its so perectly accented by the trees and the stumps, I can't look away. Eventaully however I get the urge to climb the crumbling steps and make it to the center. From up here, touching the trees I get a great sense of joy. Very excited, I hope through the mass of stone in the center from the collapsed ceiling and make my way to the otherside. The trunks are in full view now, and after looking them over I make my way back down to get more views of this amazing piece. I here a guide say to the only other 2 people here that the trunks of the three trees were just cut days ago to stop the weight from ruining of crashing down the tower. It would have been wonderful to see it covered in nature, but being able to see it all is probably thanks to the preservation efforts.

     I reluctantly make my way back to the tuk tuk and after almost 4 hours here move on to my next few destinations hopefully completeing everything I wanted to see in the main Angkor area.

Thammanon

While Angkor wat was being built, this building also was being erected under the eye of Suryavarman II in the 12th century. This small temple surrounded by a high wall has amazing detail and although restoration has taken place, most is still original. The style of Angkor can be felt immediately in the compact tower that sits in the center.

Chao Say Tevoda

Sitting directly across from Thammanon. this temple of the same preiod is very similar although in a more ruined state. Also surrounded by a large wall, the temple follows a similar layout, although with one extra building inside the complex.

      Pulling off to the side of the road a few minutes dow the road from Angkot Thom, I see something new and all too excited. Seeing two places, one on each side of road was not however what I expected. Turns out my next two places sat across from each other which was perfect and saved a little time. Approaching, I can see most of the temple due to its walls being mostly in ruin. The sign tells me this is Chao Say Tevoda, and I enter other a few stones past the wall. I can recognize the style from many other places, but really similar to Phimai in Thailand.

     Making my through the square, looking through the small buildings in the corners, walking slowly and looking up at the sky through the not so there ceiling. The detail on the outside of the main building was really nice at parts, so I went around to try and see what else I could find. A really stunning aspara was on the corner of the main tower, and by far stood out the most.

      The layout here was small, and even entering the center tower didn't use much time. Dark, there was little I could do without a light which I didn't have. Eventually I made my way out a side entrance which seeing the pathway of stone showed me it was proabaly the main entrance. I walked down in towards where it enters the tree line and gave a look at the temple from the outside. From here it was back to the center where I wandered a bit and just tried my best to see everything before heading across the road to Thammanon. Before getting there however, I bought a new guide book cheap as always from a book seller and was all too happy to have it back.

     Across the road and approaching Thammanon, I can't help but notice even from far away that there are some real similarities between the two neighbors. The interior layout is the same minus one building really, and the walls are almost the same state of ruin. What is different however is the detail payed to this one. The almost all original exterior I learned from a nearby guide was just stunning. Here I strayed from the norm and immediately payed attenion to the center.

      As I walked the grounds and checked the smaller buildings, the walls, and some smaller things, I couldn't help notice ther center and its perfect glow from the light as the sun began to go down. This was the oerfect setting to visit this temple and the perfect time as any other light would just not do this place justice. The glow on the asparas on the corner of the main temple was one of if not the most stunning carving I've ever seen, and I owe it to the perfect sunlight. Everything benefited equally, from the small buildings to the center, with its Angkor style tower glowing and the doorways half covered. As I watched, I chatted with a girl from Boston and an older couple where equally blown away.

    I do my last rounds before leaving, but not before taking a final look back at an amazing place. Definitely had some of the rush of seeing something that perhaps no one else will the same way.

     Bat Chum

Consists of three towers on a row on a platform much like Prasat Bei, although the style remains very different. The towers are in ruin and under restoration. Middle of the 10th century under Rajendravarman.

     About a 10 minute ride later down the road towards where I went to Banteay Kdei from days before, I pull down a dirt road that loops through countryside past cows grazing until reaching Bat Chum, a small temple in ruins and heavy restoration. I probably spent 5 minutes here as the 3 towers side by side, similar to Prasat Bei, were in ruin but what really turned everything off was the massive bamboo scaffolding. I spent maybe 2 of the minutes checking out the scaffolding lol, it was kinda cool.

     Prasat Kravan

This unusual temple of five towers in a single row is set back on the road from angkor wat. At first they look rather plain and only the color stands out, but upon further inspection they contain treasures of there own. Known for its unique carvings that line the entire insides of the towers. Probably unfinished, as most don't make it past the doorway and some carving looks incomplete.

     Just a minute or so down the road was a temple I had passed maybe 10 times during my 3 day trip here before, but just never stopped. No driver ever wanted to nor did I ever speak up say to nay of them " Hey pull over ", and it was strange finally being there and stopping. The five side by side towers are in view right away and man do they shine! The color, like a red mud brick just its perfect and I can already tell its going to be a nice end to the day. The walkway I notice is lined with paper bags with candlea inside, and I have no idea what for. I just watch all the different angles as I make my way to the back, taking tons of photo's of the stunning front.

     The rear really lets me know whats going on as purple satin chairs line two tables in front of the platform causeway once ajoining the temple. A wedding was most likely taking place here, or maybe a celebration at sunset.

     As I made my way inside the center tower, I was shocked by the inside. Huge carvings of each of the main 3 gods, Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva line each wall. The piece takes up the entire tower, and the carvings almost double me in height. There are truly great, and become the perfect way to end my day. These carvings gave me a wow factor at the end, not the middle, and there really is a diference. As I make my way outside again, I wonder what the other towers have to offer. Although smaller and have the unfinished look, my hopes are high.

     Three out of the remaining four have no interior carvings, but the last one on the right did which was much to my delight. The front wall had a great one going all the way up, while the sides where only have finished.

    Leaving, I turn around and see the beautiful color once more, this time even better as the sunlight hits it just right. A great way to end the day. The tuk tuk ride back will be during sunset as usual, so a great view awaits along the way...

     The entire next day way spent uploading this blog as happened last time when so much is done so fast! :-P