Slept in lazily and just rolled out late morning to grab something to eat and sit around in the main room watching TV. For the afternoon I walked around trying to find the boardwalk and sit by the water for a while. I managed to go the completely wrong way at first which is kind of annoying in the heat but eventually found my way. The walk is lined completely with flags from practically every country in the world which is really great looking when mixed with the tropical look from the trees. I walked up and down looking for a nice place to sit in the shade but unfortunately there was really none to be had. I spent a bit there but without a place to sit really just started to head back after not too long. I could sit and watch the boats come in for an hour alone in the shade, but the heat here is just too intense for direct sun. Really pretty boardwalk though, and with a little more work could be a real attraction in its own right.

     After heading back and walking the short way back to the guesthouse, I just ate again as I really like the food at this place since they have a full western menu. It's nice to able to just relax but the real reason is certainly a money thing. You can only have so many days of spending before you need a few of doing nothing just to even out the overspending before. Think I'm going to be headed to the mountainous east for a bit for a change of pace and some cheap sights. Getting my passport back tonight, feel so naked without it. It does still make me laugh that there are countries where immigration paperwork can be done by an agent of the books and you don't even need to show up...

     Finally downloaded a new video converter and the video's of the dolphin trip and Angkor balloon ride are up. :-P

    In the morning after just resting up for the night and doing nothing else really besides eat and turn on the news, I make my way down stairs a bit before 7am to get my bus. When I go to pay, he tells shakes his head like he's telling me I don't have to. Walking away it dawns on me that with the language barrier he was unable to figure out whether I was buying a bus ticket or just asking about bus times. So all I did last night was pay for my room early, over paid actually, but whatever I had to get make sure I got on the bus. The 7am departure turned into 8am anyway so rushing was pointless but I got to sit and people watch as the station is in the center of the small town. I had all intenions of heading to Kompong Chhnang, a stop halfway to Phnom Penh, but knew I had the option to go all the way to Phnom penh if I wanted. 

    Really hungry but with little options I grabbed bread and sticky rice to hold me over. The ride was interesting as I had a teenage cambodian girl next to me curled up in her seat nad helf on mine just not caring at all whether she was everywhere as long as she was comortable. I was half asleep until it was time to drop people off and I'd get out and stretch anyway so it didn't matter but was quite amusing. Maybe 4 hours into a ride I knew was roughly 5 to Phnom Penh I realized that the last town we passed was my stop and I was definately going to the capital. This was OK however since I had a feeling due to being tired I would miss it, and in that case was going to extend my visa and relax a few days in Phom Penh. I went to Okay Guesthouse again where I was remembered and got a cheap room for the next 3 nights. Even better they do visa runs for you to the immigration office so I don't even have to do it on my own which was great. Going to stay in Cambodia until I feel I'm ready to go. In no real rush to get to Vietnam and Malaysia is raining until March. Plus I've really grown to love cambodia,  even minus my temple addiction I'd stay here longer. Planning a possible week in the mountains in the east, cambodia's last frontier and there version of the wild west....

     Spending tomorrow ( 26th ) resting up and getting some supplies from the market. Also doing this lovely blog and catching up on things.....

     Left for Sisophon early in the morning bidding goodbye to battambang and my good old driver. I decided to go on another adventure to the north and explore a little traveled temple set in the northwest based around Banteay Chhmar. Only de-mined in 2007, only Preah Vihear is as newly opened to visitors. The bus ride short by my standards now, only about 2 hours getting me in a little past 10am. I barely made it to Sisophon because no one tells you when your stop is and if I didn't get up and ask I wouldn't have made it. Getting off, its a small place with no real travelers scene. I start walking planning on doing the temple the next morning and look for a room. I get a bit away before a few approach selling there pitch for the temple. The only english speaking guy is the one with the toyota camry, the most pricy option. I get into negotiations and after knocking almost $15 off for really decent reasons, like the weather was cloudy and it was 10am so if I waited until morning I could get 3 more hours for the same rate. It took a bit but eventually it went over and we were off. To be honest I was happy to have an english speaking driver and A/c rather than another longer dusty moto ride. It ended up only taking a bit over an hour to get there since the car was easier, which was great. The road was still rough as hell but we got there in realitive comfort and it went by fast being able to chat. Before going in, we eat at a roadside place across the way to quell my stomache.

     Just arriving I could tell by the moat that this place was gigantic. The outer wall surrounded by an even bigger moat seemed to me to rival Angkor itself in size, although probably more like Angkor Thom. Either way, what I was going into was hugh. The first thing you notice coming in are the gods and demons from the churning of milk, only a few remain. The backround behind them was stunning, and since the weather had somehow went from dark clouds to sunshine and blue skies pictures where easy. Down the long dirt path passing small buildings just sitting in open fields looking lonely, I eventually get to whats left of the entrance. A buddha sits under a nice white canopy to the left obviously modern with a few people taking wedding photo's in front.

     The entrance is massive although serious crumbling, with vast areas of stone to either side ready for restoration. The bars still are on some windows, asparas still line some walls, and really everything out front gives me the feel of a rather massive set of rubble not unlike what I've seen many other places. I get up for a closer look to realize that my expectations are may need to be re-thought since the entire outer wall was a giant gallery relief just like the bayon. Massive carvings lined the entore walls that remained standing, and this wall could have easily been a half mile long maybe longer and technically an inner wall. I walked the ront before entering taking in the front, the sides would have to wait for a walkaround later.

     Entering through a crumbling doorway, I duck under to reveal what immediately feels like Beng Melea on a much more massive scale. Green over grows stone everywhere. Piles of stone lay at the feet of anything from columns to giant entryways, making anything a challenge to get to. I look around to see lakes of water, buildings turned to rubble, the sheer volume of space is too much to take in. I pass beautiful pieces of stone on the ground covered in grass, pillars covered in detail... I look around over in the distance to see wall after wall, perhaps 4 full enclosures along with the outer wall and moat. I start to get really excited here and move to the side and debate going along the outer wall to get a real feel of the size but change my mind and head into the center.

     Following a sort of straight path jumping from stone to stone, I come across a large doorway with an amazing carving with a four headed figure that couldn't have had a clearing of more than 3ft. I was obvious that the rest was buried underneath, a real tell of just how much lay hidden. A small wooden bridge goes underneath to assist, the only man made structure here to help me along. I duck under and find that the remains of some amazing buildings where the entire top layer of stone above the windows are carved with beautiful aspara's. This place was starting to show me some of the most amazing detail and interesting carving I had seen yet. Soon after getting through I could see in the distance a most amazing site. I could barely make out what I was certain was a wall of monster like carvings, a full body of what I had come to call " My Pet Monster " from the lintels. I couldn't get across due to a literal field of stone but I made it a promise that I would get there eventually.

    Looking straight ahead, for the first time I could make out the center, a mass of towers jetting out from the rubble. A face could be made out in the distance telling me I had come to a mini-bayon, another of Jayavarman VII masterpieces and a marvel to my eye. It all made sense now though, the interesting buddhist carving that seemed like nothing else I'd seen. My eye was fixed now with a clear goal. I wanted to get into those towers, get close to my mini-bayon and really dive into this place. The only problem was the stone field in my way, every step a virtual disaster as the stones shift and every step gets you closer to your goal and to harm. It didn't take long for just one such slip to happen, which really could have been ugly if it were not for one key placed hand stopping the head from hitting anything. My foot was lodged in between stones and after wiggling it out and seeing only scratches, I kept going. To get my bearings, I started to the sides to get to my creatures before once again taking on my new nemesis.

    After getting to side seeing some local children hoping along, the first people I'd seen here, they gave me my path to follow and I did my best although at times had to improvise. Getting there though proved to be beyond wonderful. The side was not very well lit but the statues were exactly as I knew they would. A winged my pet monster beast, probably a version a Vishnu's ride, the garuda. I studied the long base of them with arms raised seeming to look as if they were holding up the once great building that lay above now in ruins. Both sides of this complex was almost perfect in symetry and another one of there lay just to the other side o the center path. Two very long trips over stones fields I did reach the other side to find a much better lit version in all its glory. Fully intact for the most part, I find almost a dozen in great shape lit by yellow light filtered through the trees. One is most stunning, the face in amazing condition and an absolute marvel. I stare at it for a while just amazed at my luck to find this here, and just how different it was from everything else.

     After heading away from my great statues, I head deeper down the center towards the great towers. The adventurous feeling from hoping rock to rock is so amazing. Like a child again, mentally saying OK if I can just get to here... Phew got it! OK now just put this foot here and then here and maybe I can... It was just incredible. Getting closer I slowly start see the forest reveal itself behind me as the sun breaks through the trees. Things start to reveal themselves, the tops of towers reveal lotus flowers, still intact hallway walls buried in stone reveal how it must have looked back then. The giant outer wall, moat, and inner wall after inner wall that could be walked through to any entrance, all leading deeper into the spaces between walls where more buildings could be found culminating at the center.

    Eventually making it to the heart of the massive complex, I can finally clearly see the wonderful faces on the towers. I just dive in, not really sure which one I went to first. It was just a great dash all over, going inside one tower to stare through holes in the rock, climbing up some other piles to get better views, really lost in the moment here for so much of the time a really exact timeline is hard to make but thats really whats so great about my time there.

    I spent alot of time here, going through the middle of walls, checking out all the towers and walls, looking at each lintel and towers as if it were the first that I'd seen. This place was perfect for me, and another place that surprised me and sparked a new hidden place that hadn't been tapped yet. There just seems to be a never ending supply of newer places that can keep my interest alive. I get a real feel of the layout in the center, with multiple towers in the center followed by a gallery wall that could be walked through and had a tower at each of its corners. After vast amounts of time here I see a intact doorway leading out to the left side. I decided now to go check out the sides and see the center from a different view. The outer wall here also had some gallery reliefs but nothing like what awaited just along the back wall. Directly at the end of where I would have came if I marched straight through, at the back, lay the single most interesting piece I'd seen to date. The wall was carved with two giant Avolkitesvara's, buddhist mythology figure depicted with massive amounts of arms. The two remaining had 16 and 32 arms. The larger one was most impressive, surrounded by other figures that just were given almost no value by the massive statue with so many arms...

    After seeing so much of the left side and now looking at the center again from the back I decided to go from the back to the center again in the mass of towers and then work my way to the right side and to the outer wall. I did just that with not much trouble, taking in the maze of walls, vast amounts of green, and at the end a wall with only the supporting columns remaining, the stones that filled the gaps on the ground nearby. I wanted to go out through the center so made my way back in passing a most interesting face tower. While I think all the others are an image of Jayavarman VII himself as god-king, this single face was clearly that if the buddha's, long earlobes and clearly different features. It was really interesting to me as it proves the others are of something other than the buddha, giving in my mind more weight to the other being the case. Just before heading out of the massive center, I see the DANGER sign on the rocks warning of climbing. A little late for me, but I would have done it anyway...

    I make my way out the same way I came, jumping over rocks and having a grand old time at it. I pass some more giant lizards some maybe 10in long, barley out long enough to photo... Except for this guy who kept his head out bravely. Since I was trying to get one the entire time clearly, even if just the head it was a good way to end my time at this place.

    Making my way from Banteay Chhmar to a nearby temple called Ta Prohm, one of about 12 that are around Banteay Chhmar. I laughed a bit a seeing another Ta Prohm since I'd seen a place by the same name in Siem Reap, but I guess theres only so many names. It was situated maybe 2 minutes away tucked behind and rather in the center of a tiny village. Cows walked the temple grounds right along with me belonging to nearby homes. Recalling this place I'm going to go backwords acting as I entered from the opposite side I did because where I did just doesn't lend to being put into words well.

     From the back, the moat of Ta Prohm is clearly visible as is the very nice face tower sitting in the center of the near island. Giant C shaped moats dot each side, and small strips of land at the top and bottom entrances were the only way across. Interestingly, this arrangement let the outer wall actually be outside the moat which was very different. I also found it amazing that a place this small would have so much great work done around it. The entire site is in view in the picture below except for a single building behind it. The amount of care that went into such a small place tells a great deal. 

    Getting closer you can see the tower out of the cover of the trees, revealing the four faces that have come to be the tell tale sign of the work of Jayavarman VII, my hero :-P. Walking around, sitting down on the ledge nearby and watching the sun filter through onto the faces, I really like this small place, it feels like a tower sitting on an island all alone.

    The center of the tower is similar to most, with a view to the sky made from fallen stone at the top. the entryways are near collapse and only wooden beams hold them in place. The opposite side contains a mass of stone once part of an attached building probably making up the entryway. Nothing remains now but ruins, but it doesn't matter what side your on, the main tower looks great from any angle.

    Following the mass of stone that you have to climb over, you reach a small base for a structures entryway which was actually the first thing I saw coming in. You can't see the moat, the tower, nothing but stone and it just didn't make for a good way to present it. So I saw it one you way, anyone reading another, but to be honest its better presented this way :-)

     On my way out back to the very dirty camry after all our riding, we pass a group of cambodians having a grand old time on the steps of a classic countryside stilted home. I'm told through translation that they were inviting me for a drink, and it just would have seemed to rude to brush away all there smiles. Just people from the rural parts trying to interact and be friendly towards the unlikely visitor. So I sat for maybe 10 minutes taking a shot of rice whisky ( If they said it was pure gasoline I would have believed them ) and chatted a bit before making the way to the final stop of the day, Banteay Torp.

     Banteay Torp was maybe 20 minutes drive away, down a road that spit from the one we took getting here. It was my last stop and although there are more here it was a similar case as with Koh Ker. The cost to get out here is high, which really makes it hard to do back to back days. Also the smaller sights are little known and some even uncleared of mines aside from small paths. It's definitely a similar case and if I ever want to see the tiny sites around these far away places it will mean on a second trip to cambodia. Pulling into Banteay Torp, I'm immediately taken away by the sheer size of the tower that sat at the entrance. Possibly the largest that I'd seen, I was eager to get in there on the terrace slightly above the ground to explore. 

     I started exploring to the side where the moat could be seen through just piles of stone. One of the five or six towers here was in this mess, all but completely ruined. It was hard to tell exactly how many there were because of the mass of stone but five is probably more likely. I made my way under entryways hanging by just stone laying on tree, past another tower and into is massive church like archway.

     On the other side, with the setting sun hitting one side of the tower directly I could see a perfect view of the tower that still stood so high. I really think its the tallest I've seen but maybe its just an illusion. Either way, this finger like tower jets straight to the sky soaring in blue with all that remains of it. It was really something, and the feel of this place is really unequaled in a certain way. The towers surrounding the one in center are semi crumbling in all different heights have created an absolute mountain of stone at the base of the center around the center tower. An absolute mountain of stone boulders, allowing you to climb if brave enough to amazing heights on the towers. This is something I have never before been able to do. Through another tower and out the other side to reveal the green growth on tis side following my cambodian driver and his brother as they make it look so easy hoping along, I eventually make it up on a ledge of the tower overlooking the surrounds. Sitting here with wind blowing and just laying back in the center of these massive towers, sun setting in the back, I could really feel an atmosphere here.

    
    I make my way across to the back of the tower I loved so much coming in to find out its actually only half with two sides completely gone revealing the inside. What shocked me is that looking down there was maybe 10ft more of this tower buried, making it actually taller that it appears not the other way around. I sit on a pile of rick near the base made by the stone mountain. The view of the sun was clear from here, and I sat for a bit before we began heading to the last tower with best view of the sun.

    Once again we climb, this time me a bit closer but still miles behind there speed. He jokes that for cambodians its very easy as there on there feet all there lives mostly. I get up, turn around and very carefully sit as there really is nothing stopping me from a god awful plunge to my doom i I slip. Sitting down its clear to see the clouds have swallowed the sun this time around, but the glow thorough is still worth sitting a bit for.

    Making my way back down, I walk slowly trying to get some photo's of these massive towers in the darker light. The main three come in clear view back at the car. A truly great site, and once again have Jayavarman VII to thank, although this time he built over an earlier site taking someones OK site and turning it into a great one.

    Leaving, down the road that lead to the road we came we pass by a very large body of water I'm told may have been the reservoir for the are of temples here. It was gorgeous in this light, but the picture just doesn't seem to do justice.

    On the way back, the night ended on a rather not so great note as the driver had to stop somewhere which led to an angry series of never ending phone calls all the way back and blah blah blah... Some good old cambodian drama. Back in town settled in to my guesthouse for the night I could do nothing but laugh and go eat next door. After eating I rested a bit in the room and then went downstairs to the lobby and pointed to the wall with the poster of bus times and prices and got a ticket to my next stop. Another bus in the AM....

    Staying up on the computer last night I decided to sleep in and didn't get up unti around 10am. I had to meet Bon at 3pm so I went and got breakfast and then spent quite a bit at the internet cafe getting things in order. I still had time even after 2 hours on the PC so I went back to the room for a bit and then decided to eat again around 2pm before heading out. It was really just a morning of trying to keep busy before heading out one last day with the good old Bon. Cheerful as ever when I meet him downstairs we don't waste anytime and got going. It didn't take long before we were back on countryside roads, but these ones were different and much more rocky almost like pure gravel. The ride was bumpy as hell but fun as always chatting away. The ride was quite long and much farther away than I thought but eventually we past a small village where Bon was actually from, hence his knowing about this out of the way temple. Right past the market we pulled into the temple of Prasat Ba Set. The first thing I notice is the crumbling tower out front, the second if that the rest looks like some stuck a bomb in it. Well turns out they did, as this being a temple deep in the countryside it was a prime target for destruction by the Khmer rouge in the late 70's. Many temples suffered this fate, but this is the first that I'd seen. There was one side that appeared to be in OK condition, but on closer inspection you see that its only the fact that its filled with stone thats keeping it upright. Bon takes me to an inscription thats hidden in the rubble that I wouldn't have seen on my own, then leaves me on my own. Not knowing where to start, I wonder to the sides to get an over all view of the size.

    After going over to the column covered grass that lay on each side covering probably 100ft on each side, I can see that whats left doesn't show its once true size. I was drawn back to the center tower and after doing a small circle I go inside. Although nothing remains, the perfect square cut out that is now the top of the tower. Looking up I can see the clear blue sky through the opening and really appreciate. All the light coming in created something so different from the dark towers with only tiny glares coming through.

     During my circle around the central structure or whats left of it, I notice thats there actually some very interesting things here. In the piles sit perfectly preserved stone lintels and columns, five headed naga's lying in leaves that once adorned the corners, and in rare occasions some even still stuck in there original spot. I'm really come to love this early 11th century my pet monster lintel style, and seeing 2 more great examples here was really great. It was at the front however that I really saw something interesting. There were large slabs of stone large enough to be doorway colums covered in flower like designs, something I had never seen before. In the pile stood all types of carving that I hadn't seen, and it was really a shame I couldn't investigate further. This temple might hold real value in finding out something new about the khmer but I don't think even the Aspara authorites have really given these small countryside sights much time, and they probably just don't have the manpower and or money to do so.

     This place really had a great feel to it, although nothing special when you look around and see markets, tropical trees, clear skies and just a real country feel. It also made me realize that Now matter how many places I visit that have made it " Onto the map ", there are hundreds more that don't and remain only locally known. It was nice coming here though knowing that I was one of a very small number of foreigners every to come here. I was he only one here when I came, and the people were quite shocked to see me. So thanks to Bon I had a nice little elite visit that I really enjoyed.

    I had every intention of heading out, but then got really bold and decided to go inside the mess of falling stone and see for myself what it was like. Inside, I was stunned, excited, and yet a bit nervous at the same time. The wall of th remaining buildings was literally resting half fallen against another wall with stones above my head weighing tons just barely resting on each other enough to stay up. I reall wanted to get some good pictures but I kept looking up at the giant stones above. It made my 2 minutes inside feel like 30. Fun and exciting though I probably wouldn't trust a long term stay. on right push and thats coming down.

    Back on the bike, I'm told theres a well next door so take a short drive to the other side of the temple ruins to find a giant reservoir that once held water for the temple complex or city if it had one. It was of decent size and the green swamp like water inside gave a vague impression of its once great look. The line of trees behind it really gave it a nice background, although it really just helped me get a more complete image of the place.

    After a few minutes we were back on the move, assuming we were going back but then he asked me whether I wanted to see some rice fields which didn't sound like a roller coaster but hell its something extra to do. A winding dirt road and a few minutes later was come upon vast fields of tan and green. It was actually really beautiful and staring down the fresh green field I really felt peaceful with the breeze. Bon tells me that the more wealthy farmers, relative of coarse, can get the crop to grow 3 times a year instead of 2 since they can irrigate the crops. That was why I was looking at only one fresh plot and the rest nothing growing until next season. My facorite thing was the many scarecrows in the fields of green poking up every now and then. Swaying in the wind, they just had a way of making you smile. As we were leaving Bon actually ran into a cousin on a giant tractor like wagon carrying loads of rice. He asks if I want to ride up top on the rice, but I decline really as it was getting late and wanted to start the ride back. We ended up stopping at the cousins though were I went out back to find more bats in the trees. These ones were almost pets, kept up there so the villagers could use the droppings as fertilizer, some of the best so they tell me. I'm still buzzing from the bats yesterday! How amazing was that?

     All in all a laid back day till the end and a nice way to end my time here. Going to miss have Bon around, as he's easily the best guy I've had as a driver. He actually gave me his email and I might contact him sometime if I'm ever back. For now its the long ride back and then dinner. Think I'm going on a tiny back track to Sisophon 2 hours north near the Thai border for another big motorbike excursion and perhaps a hope into Thailand for a new cambodian visa coming back. Think I'm going to stay here a bit longer, just not sure whether its easier to extend in Phnom Penh or border hop... Well see.

    I had arranged to meet bon, my all too fun moto driver around 9am and got up a bit before to grab something from a nearby bakery. We were off a bit before 9am with a saying of coarse although not sure which one this time. I knew today would be long and prepared my self for a good ride. But after just a few minutes we pulled over in the countryside by a local morning market and ate a real breakfast which he pretty much insisted I have. It was some crazy yellow pancake looking thing filled with what seemed like potato. Anyhow it was actually good, but waiting it with hands only was awkward. It was good to eat though, and finishing up we were back on the road. We passed alot of fields and villages along the way before being able to see my first stop in the distance. A giant mountain with a gold tower sticking out at the top. A modern temple inhabits the top, but I was going there for the views. We pulled over so I could take a picture of the mountain.

    While there facing the other way I noticed some really great newly planted rice fields that just glowed green. Bon took a picture for me before we got back on the bike and headed toward the mountain. Within ten minutes we were there I think, pulling down a dirt road leading to some small restaurants and a ticket booth. We sat and grabbed a drink for a minute resting before the climb. A child offered to guide me, but Bon was coming up so there was no need. On the walk to the base, he tells me that theres almost 900 steps to the top of Phnom Sampeau which makes me laugh inside but dread it also. As we started up, I found out it wasn't actually the stairs we were going up but a road that carved along the outside. We could have drove, but somehow he got the idea I wanted to walk up it lol. Anyway maybe 1/3 of the way up we got our first good views, one of them being a great view of " Lonely mountain ", a name given by the locals since its in the middle of a plain of flat land.

    We came to a fork about half way there, and we turned left as he wanted to show something. We went to a small part of the temple here and inside the main building. He then proceeds to tell me about all the people killed here during the pol pot years, and really goes on about every detail. It was strange seeing him transform from the happy go lucky guy, even opening up enough to tell his never met father was also a victim - the crime was being a soldier before the revolution. We then went down deep in a cave that housed to my surprise another hall of skulls and bones in a case guarded by a solitary nun sitting nearby. The khmer rouge used this place as a killing field just throwing bodies into the cave from an opening above. I really had no idea that this was part of this mountain, so all the more shocked when it was upon me. After leaving, we headed up a bit to a ledge were he told me a funny story about the mountains creation myth involving chickens, ducks, crocodiles and a lady with never ending hair. It was crazy to see the mood go from down to up so fast, but I've seen thats that is how they deal here. He turns back down to the bottom after this saying its too much for him, and I'm directed to the top. It was only minutes away past a few monkeys before I came upon the top, but the views were just getting started.

    Making my way through the sets of pathways that went through the glorious buildings to different cliff edges for various views, I stopped on the far side to turn and get some real shining photo's of the tower here. This temple really went all out to get a gold tower of this magnitude all the way up here, but it was spectacular. Completely carved with detail, it looks as if it were its own mountain of gold floating up to the sky above. Equally great is a wonderfully colored temple building that just fit perfectly next to it. Even the trees got in on the action, providing the final touch with a great tropical feel.

     After the gold sunk in, I my way to the edge straight ahead from the way I came up and then to the right, finding some fabulous mountains and green plains to look at. The view from here was really worth the trip, and definitely something that I'd missed doing. So glad today's weather cooperated, as this is clouds wouldn't have been anything close.

    I only saw this while walking, but it just stood out and I have no idea what it is. Just s funny stone lying against a wall that just said photo me dammit.

    I walked around a bit checking out various sides for different views until the sun got the better of me and I  started my way down. Bon had told me to take the stairs down as its faster, so I thought I did just that. I went down a giant set of stairs leading into the depths of the rock. The view was great seeing rock on both sides and large hindu statues in a buddhist temple. There was almost a mini forest down here in the crevice of the mountain, and although great obviously the wrong way. There was other stairs after I made the long climb back up, but not wanting to waste time trying them all I just started back the way I knew. Along the way I checked out all the tropical trees lining the cement road that I winded down until the bottom.

    Back at the bottom I made my way over to the place we were sitting and drank some water before heading off. I was so tired, seeing him resting in a hammock waiting made me jealous but I'm never getting in a hammock again unless it uses metal chains. We started driving to a nearby mountain for the next stop, Ek Phnom, an 11th century Khmer temple sitting atop the mountain. I'm told that theres only 386 steps here :-P We once again parked near a food stall and soon after I began my climb. Someone tried getting me to go into the caves at the base, but I had had enough of caves from this trip. Looking at the lion flanked base and its giant stairway going straight up I found myself stalling and went over to a tiny tower in ruins near the stairs before telling myself it was time to climb.

    I really wanted to get a photo of the steps right but with people on them that isn't easy so I patiently waited till a moment when everyone was out of the way and took some. On my way up, a lady walking up along side laughed at me and said I was going to fast and to take it easy. Probably good advice, but these long legs can only go so slow. Panting about half way up I get a view of a tower creeping into view over the steps which gives me what I need to get to the top.

    At the top, I sat down next to a couple who seemed local just visiting for the day and enjoyed the view looking back at the steps I'd climbed. We chatted with the little we could for a bit  before being joined by a man for California who'd told me about the caves earlier. I guess he wanted a second look up here. I really loved of the flags put up here swayed in the wind with a view of the surrounds all around it. I stayed here for a bit watching before everyone parted and I went inside the complex.

    Inside, the five towers come into clear with under the shining sun. Following the usual center tower inside four others, they were all in various condition and had unique things about them. I did a walk around I think 3 times trying to get good shots of the four outer towers before doing anything else. I really wanted to get them right, as the sky for once was perfect for pictures up here with patchy clouds and blue sky. Eventually I made another round this time going inside each of the outer four. going around here was very easy as the mountain top was no larger than a few houses next to each other. Up here the towers were really great as weather and light added to there allure for this moment and I was enjoying it. Inside them was usually rather simple and dark, however inside the first one you enter coming up the ceiling is about to cave in it looks like and someone I'm afraid is going to be quite unlucky. Eventually I made my way to the center tower although the inside was completely filled with a small shrine with a buddha image. The outside was great though with the best carvings that went all the way to the top. Here I also ran into Connie again, the same girl from the restaurant the night before which was funny. I was just about to head down but stayed and chatted a few minutes before doing so. This was 3 times running into each other in 2 different cities, in as many days...

     Getting to the bottom fast as going down is always easier, I have lunch and a drink before heading to what I assumed was my final stop and most anticipated, the bamboo train. The ride was down dirt roads and countryside again, and cutting through temples to get to the othersides road was common. This time however, we stopped and Bon pointed out something in the tree's. It's a bird, it's a plane. it's... Hundred's a bats!? I stared as the fruit bats hung on to the tree, and if that wasn't enough I then hears bon say " I'm going to make them fly ". This was broad daylight and so strange for me, but with clappin and branch shaking it all went to hell and they were flying everywhere. I had my camera facing up in amazement capturing them as they floated past the clouds creating real life silouetted bat signals that would make batman proud. It was incredible! I was loving it and I even went to second tree to get more. After that thinking I'd had enough, A tuk tuk pulls in with someone else, and who was it but bonnie lol. I guess our drivers follow the same route and know the same little things to show people. I stayed and watched her show which ended up being far grander, with 50+ hitting the air through the clouds creating some of the most amazing shots so far....

    Exchanging emails with connie after 4 meetings just seemed fair as I'd done with many others along the way, and proceeded to the last leg of my trip. It was a decent trip of  maybe 30 minutes on back roads, but when we arrived I knew immediately this was going to be fantastic. We sat down and grabbed something to drink at the stalls and waited for our "trains" to be ready. I could see the small twin bed looking wooden trains being set up on the rails for us. We loaded on the motorbike and I sat down passing the camera for photo's. When we started moving as the engine turn the pulley linked to the actual train axle, I got chills of excitement. The train was off, with me on it in the open air...

    Becoming just fixed on the trip, I looked ahead seated and just felt the wind brush by as we picked up speeds not that much slower than an actual train. The rails were so old they were separated at parts creating a hell of a bump each time, adding to the adventure. At one point I stood for a while holding onto the bike to look over the sides, another I turned away from the speeding ground in front to have a picture taken at full speed ahead. It was actually incredibly relaxing, even closing my eyes for a bit and just enjoying the sounds and the wind.

    One thing that really had me amazed was when to my surprise I look up to see another train coming our way on the same track, there being only the one. Everyone slows down and to my delight the lighter car has to take themselves apart. Sicne we had the bike, I got to watch as the engine was taken off, then the top, and then the axle's just lifted off the track all within 60 seconds. We kept moving soon after through nice tree's and countryside until we eventually hit our stop about 20 minutes later. Since we put the motorbike on, most of our return journey was done by the train. It was truly a fun and once in a lifetime experience. Made even more memorable knowing that in just 2 years, Cambodia will have it's first major train line complete that will take over and dismantle this track. In just that short time, many livelihoods will be in trouble as well as a great past time lost. I'm truly glad I got to do it now and hope the people here don't wait until the last second to look for new work and leave themselves in deep trouble.

    We took the bike off and got, speeding over the tracks and back onto the road. Today was a fantastic day, but the past two days were made ten times better by my great driver and buddy Bon. He tells me on the way back that there's one more place he can take me if I stay another day here, and although I was planning on leaving I agree and wait for what he has in store tomorrow...

   
     Leaving Siem Reap early I get up with my things already packed and head upstairs to check out. The tuk tuks didn't take long to sniff me out seeing my bag as always and was off toward the bus station. He tried taking me to a tour place to buy the ticket but I knew better and got myself to the bus station were a local bus was leaving with the hour. The journey to battambang I knew to be roughly 4 hours, so I grabbed some bread and water for the trip to hold me over. Once we got going, I really don't remember anything other than waking up every half hour or so as I literally slept the thing away solid which I am never able to do. Once In battambang I was spotted by a driver who immediately caught my attention. Cheerful waiving a sign or his guesthouse with a t-shirt of a baby with piercings and an Obama shirt on, I had to go with him. It was a great choice because he spoke perfect English and was an absolute riot! Everything he says is from a movie. He greets you with sayings from movies and knows more pop culture than I do. His first words to me where " How's it hanging dude " lol. Then some other saying, which he said he got rom watching Back to the Future. When we got to the place he told me about the sights and the costs to do them with him and they were cheap and I had to go with this guy. So it was settled, the temple of Ek Phnom this afternoon and some countryside villages, then the mountains and the bamboo train tomorrow.

    Getting settled in and having a few hours to spare until the 3pm meet with my new driver friend, I unpacked and went to get lunch. This proved hard as there is literally no food places here set up for foreigners and I ended up at a Chinese place that thankfully had a menu. I ate there, then went across to the bank to pull some james bond stuff. Well really I had to try and sneak a torn $50 into there and change money. US dollars are as good if not better than local riel, but I was going to try and change 5 $50's and hope my ripped one got by. To my surprise it did, and I saved losing alot of money. Back at the room I rested a bit before meeting my all too cheerful friend on his bike, and his parting words were " Lets blow this joint ". It didn't take long to reach the temple, maybe 20 minutes, joking and passing really nice countryside along the way. Entering, I would say the first thing I really noticed was the temple, but here it was the lizards! They were everywhere crawling under the inches of leaves that littered the floor. Iguana's, red lizards, green lizards etc.... ( someone at home show this to Justin.)

    After following lizards halfway around the entire wall, I eventually got myself back on track and started my way around the temple. It was simple and small, with a basic outer wall and a large T shaped building with towers in the ends. The central tower was rather large but I focused on the outside first and made my way around the wall, poking my head in here and there still really looking for lizards. I even exited on one side to get a view of the wall from outside at one point before going back in. The main building was rather nice looking though, and so before long I was making my way inside.

      While going up the crumbling steps of the side I came in on, I could see the modern temple that we passed coming in, putting new against old. The site here had buddhist flags everywhere showing the temples presence nearby.

     Inside was a bit chaotic and small due to fallen stones, but its here that I came across my favorite lintel of all time. In near perfect condition if not restored, this piece just screams at me. The guy in the center reminded me of a movie I hadn't seen since just past diapers, but it all came back as " My Pet Monster " flashed before me. Flanked by flags on each side, the doorways top is by far its greatest. Getting closer, the center looks like the cat from Alice in Wonderland only very angry.

    I spent time inside, but before long there really wasn't much left inside as the space was small but I was surely impressed with the detail I found here. Outside, I circle again trying to find things I'd missed when I come upon a red flower that is so at odds with the grey and brown color scheme here that it had to be given attention. I took a reel of photo's, this one being best I think.

     Before heading out, I did a circle around again being so easy given its small size, and this time decided to duck in and go inside the remaining wall. It was interesting looking over the stone from inside, but its only so interesting I was soon moving on. I wanted to visit that temple that had caught my eye so thats were I headed on my way out.

     I went over to the driver and told him were I'd be and he said he'd meet me over there and then started the short walk over. The new temple was actually stunning, with painted decor on almost every inch of its walls and ceilings. All depicting various myths, they paint a pretty picture. I walked around head facing straight up a bit, trying to take some of it in although the story wasn't a concern as much as the art was. Combined with pillars, it really made for a great place to appreciate and reflect the paintings. The one that really caught my eye is of a heaven and the buddha getting greeted by a sort of angel monk and celestial dancers. Its really a well done piece.

     Directly across was teh temples giant buddha image, although again different enough to be completely refreshing. Giant and all white, it stood out against the second day of rains dark clouds. The picture this created was stunning, a dark contrast of gray and white through the trees. What really made it though was its white stone monks on each side that when looked at from the front is breathtaking. I really liked it and stayed here until the moto pulled up signaling it was time to go. We left with the phrase " Lets make like a banana and split ".

    After leaving I thought it was done for the day, but he wanted to show me everything we passed along the way. If we passed fruit he told me what kind, how they make it, about the people etc... So when we got to a place that makes cheese out of fish and stopped, I knew I was in for a rather smelly treat. Now just hearing cheese from fish is hard to take, but seeing it fermenting into it is another. The whole process was happening before me as heads were chopped of by people who he laughingly called " the killers " and others were filling buckets with dried fish from the racks. I believe towards the end I saw close to a bucket filled with the fish paste, but I wasn't sure. Quite interesting though, and back at the bike he bought a small bit and gave me one to try. It looks like a string cheese stick of provolone but pink, and actually wasn't bad although not good either. Can' believe I had it though.

    Leaving here, he starts with " Let's hit the road jack ", and for whatever reason I actually was feeling free spirited on the bike flying along and sung the next line, and so for the next minute we were just chanting tunes. Our last stop was on a country road to a village that made sticky rice in bamboo sticks by slow cook the rice in bamboo with beans inside. We bought a whole stick and took handfuls on rice and stuffed our faced for 2000 riel. Good way to end the day, now time to get inside before the rain. Sure enough not later being in my room 10 minutes it was pouring, and even the locals were dumbfounded by it. Later after it stopped I went looking for a place to have dinner and came upon a place called White Rose packed with 50+ people, locals and foreigners alike. Should have kept looking because it was like an hours wait and the whole scene here was like nothing else in asia but it shows how little there is to chose from here for food. I ended up being joined by a Chinese girl who actually lives in Boston that I'd met back in Siem Reap and just stumbled upon again here. Her food somehow came pretty much right after mine and ate together and talked for maybe an hour before taking off. The streets here are pitch black with no lights and it does have an unsafe feel so I went with her to her hotel before heading to my room. On the way back I kinda wanted someone to walk me home lol. Tomorrow a full day of adventure, gotta rest for the hiking....

     After spending most of yesterday on the computer in the afternoon I worked out to have a driver meet me in the morning for a trip to Koh Ker and Beng Melea, but not without some funny confusion. It's actually said like its spelled Koh Kay so the first driver thought I wanted cocaine :-P. After finding someone who knew the area and was willing to make the 3 hour ride there bright and early and then back later, there was really nothing left to do but wait. I knew I'd have a jam packed day, with two separate 3 hour treks and about 5 hours of sightseeing it was going to be hard. But ever since Preah Vihear and hearing my friend talking about going to this rural temple complex with no paved roads that no one goes to.... I just had to go. As for Beng Mealea, I had heard good things and it was on the way.

    Up before the sun to meet th the 7am ride, I was tired by excited and ready for action. Heading to the driver the morning was starting of a little interesting since the driver tried to renegotiate the fare thinking he already had me there. Upon me starting to walk away it all dropped rather quickly though, and we were off. The weather wasn't great, very cloudy and rather damp which was so odd but what can you do. It did make the ride a little dreary though. After an hour or so of paved roads we pulled off for gas, and after filling up we turned off the main road for the start of the real journey. All dirt and rock from here, things are really rough and my bottom takes the beating off its life starting now. Some dirt roads, some rock roads, some wet slippery roads where the back tire almost loses its grip and slides out, some under construction roads, even some drive wherever because there is no road roads.... I had one stop to get up and stretch as I bought my ticket which because of the roads or lack off was bought at a booth still hours away. I treasured this though because until we arrived almost 2 hours later there wouldn't be another. Passing controlled burning of land for miles, cows crossing whenever they please, animals everywhere running across making you slam on the brakes, it seems as if the ride just can't throw enough curve balls.

     The only time I was really nervous was when the back tire swayed left to right through the wet ground, the bike being held up only by the drivers feet hitting the ground. The ride you get used to, but your body doesn't like pressure on one area for too long and theres not much room to move on the small seat so my butt was killing me and my back ached. It takes a long time and patience but eventually we arrived in Koh ker. It had better be worth it, since I had that same ride back later on. But just getting here was part of the adventure and always is. I mean this local map of the area around Siem Reap doesn't even show a road to Koh Ker at all from Beng Melea!

     Koh ker is much older than the Angkor monuments, predating them by over 200 years. This was the capital of the empire for barely 20 years until the king who moved there died and his succesor moved it back. There are over 100 temples here, and even though most are just piles of stone or single ruined towers there are over 30+ sites worth seeing for the visitor. I knew that I couldn't see near that many today and since you can't stay here and being 3 hours away, it wasn't going to happen this trip. Coming from Angkor where everything is either sign posted or the driver knows, here theres no way of knowing just what monument your at. Dirt roads carve there way through the forest down tiny roads leading to the temples. No one is here, and with the monuments restored by nature left alone, I was hoping for a different experience. It didn't help me at the time, but in the evening after coming back I came across a wonderful map of the area which you can use to follow the trail. It also gives me a rough idea of the names of some of the places I'd been. It also lead me to maps of all the other areas! Oh well, better late than never so I edited the posts and added the maps.

     Going down dirt roads that looked the same as the last hour, I didn't even know were in Koh Ker until the driver started looking around as we passed roads and soon after stopped along the side of the dirt road in front of my first temple. Judging from the map I can after the fact say that it was Prasat Chhin or Prasat Pram and the driver passed quite a few places along the way. If I had even the remote chance of seeing them all maybe it would have upset me, but I knew time was limited even while I was there and that he would take me to the largest and most common places. Entering over a small wooden fence I walk past many people working sweeping away leaves along the path to the temple before hitting the outer wall. Leaves and vegetation are everywhere and I climb my way over a hill o leaves and stones before seeing the 3 main towers and some smaller red brick ones that sit in front. Slightly overgrown and surrounded by mountains of leaves, they had a really nice feel to them. It was easy to tell that these where older, much older, and used a larger block to build rather than smaller more eye pleasing brick. Detail is minimal aside from 2 pillars lining a doorway and a lintel over another. What I found most unique was the act the inside could be seen from the outside on all the towers with two having there front wall collapsed and one the left collapsed. This was obvious by the mass of stone piled at there bases.

    I did my rounds, circling the towers and getting a feel of the backs and trying to find detailed pieces in the rubble. When I decided to look up, I noticed for the first and last time for the day a break although very small in the cloud cover. It was really nice, but short lived and back to nothing but clouds shortly after. Heading out and back to the bike I had a good feel about the day and was really up for a real go at it here.

    A short ride up the road, passing a small single tower and a reservoir in the trees, we stop to what appears to me to be another walled temple of no real importance. I pass some food and drink stalls, but not nearly like Angkor and assume theres not many here because its a small place. I approach past a small wall and then to a building reminding me of the Khleangs in Angkor Thom, but a single one. The building is the first in a corridor like line of small buildings leading toward a tower that you must jump through rock piles to get too. Once closer, you can see the tower itself is in line with even more behind it still being part of what seemed like a pathway. I walked up to it and inspected it and to my surprise saw some nice carvings and lush green grass just on the other side. You couldn't go through the tower so I went around to be much delighted by what lay there.

    Once through I come across a long collapsed row of pillars once lining the path here to the arch ahead. Along the way is a huge head of a cow in really great condition surrounded by rubble, a clear sign that this was a hindu temple like most of the Khmer's. Further along and through another doorway I pass a rather large section of red brick towers much in ruin with tiny doors. They all appeared to me to small houses for the gods, a form of putting each gods statue in a small tower to live and be worshiped there. I had heard it practiced in even angkor, but there small doored towers gave clear evidence of it  to my own eyes.

     Just past those towers and well into the tree's down this never ending path of stone, through one final doorway, it hits me hard and fast. I could see what I knew to be a tower unlike any other. It didn't belong here yet there it was, to large for anything else here, yet again there it was. Sitting within eye shot now was a 7 tier pyramid tower that could I think stand up against any other, be it peru or Angkor. A solid line of stairs runs up the front to the top, giving you the sense of its height. I stare in wonder at it before breaking my self imposed spell and getting closer. All around inside this inner wall was a field of green, showing just how much space was around this mountain of stone. It was nothing I'd ever seen before, and now all the thoughts of the Mayans came back. This thing was 100% akin to temples from the same period of time yet an another side of the world 10k miles away. Incredible.

    Not long after entering, I circled the massive tower and really was shocked at its size and build but surprisingly more so by its lack of access in all four directions. There was only the one set of stairs, and now way inside. This just was at odds with everything the other Khmer kings built. It didn't honor the cardinal directions, you couldn't get inside, and there was no tower at the top. It was by all means a pyramid. After my rounds I went back to the front to find to my surprise the only other person I'd seen here having been alone was a Aspara worker making sure I didn't try to climb. This was devastating, but upon looking at the steps it was clearly a safety thing. The makeshift wooden steps had fallen apart and no longer usable at all. It was a downer, but nothing could ruin the moment here. Birds chirping away, I had this temple to my own and just stood and watched as he walked away and I had me and the mountain temple. Eventually leaving, I looked back one more time on the way out before rock hoping my way out. Back on the road I looked at two small buildings across the road which seemed to me to be clearly part of some ruined pathway to the glorious temple I now know as Prasat Thom...

    A short ride down the long dirt roads I came upon a series a small square stone buildings that were rather amusing to me. I stepped off the bike to get a closer look and walked across the dirt road. This road, to give you an idea , is actually probably the best I got on the whole ride after leaving Siem Reap.

    Closer now to made me laugh even seeing it from the roadside was a giant linga, massively wide in the the center of the first tower. It said atop a yoni with a place for water to drain. which is pure hindu symbolism similar to that seen at Kbal Spean. walking around inside I loved the detail at the hard to see base, but putting my head down there made me feel like a snake was going to pop out at me. I moved around the outside then on to the nearby next two which although being similar where in different stages of ruin. One was covered by nature, very appealing to the eye but the linga inside mostly destroyed. Yet another a combo of both, with semi covered outside and a great stone pillar inside. The driver approaching with me at one of them and pointed saying " that like me lol ". I knew a penis joke was coming, but it still sounded bad. There was a fourth but passing it on the roadside he kept driving, an to be honest 3 was already to many and was satisfied seeing it from the road. On the map its the linga shrine and the 3 squares north of that.

    The next five places are really a mystery to me as to there exact location but I believe them to be the four walled places after the linga shrine as well as one the squares in between. First up was a small place just off the road with roots covering most of what was left, and some of the trees really going to town on the stone.

    The buildings were simple however and I didn't stay to long and get to into the small rooted stone and kept moving.

    Next stop down the road that was going thicker into tree's and road getting smaller was a decently large walled place with little to offer on the inside. An outer wall and inner wall once protected whatever was here though and probably once a great temple. I pass a large stone pillar with writing all over it which was interesting and probably how they were able to learn what they have about this period. It takes alot for one man, even a king, to move a capital and build all this in just 20 years. Not only that though, after the capital was moved back most of these were probably o longer used or diminished after such short use.

    The center holds a single brick tower or whats left of it, and soon after start to head back. The outer walls are interesting simply because trees are growing out of them everywhere and taking the wall with them. They give a really great sight for the camera and the eye. Passing the last one of these outside on my way out to the moto, I really like how it goes from the wall all the way over the road in its semi collapsed state.

    Down the road was a quick stop at a crumbling set of two small buildings side by side, and upon getting to the back just say some interesting shaped stones. Not wanting to waste time I moved on rather fast.

    On the way to my next stop that I didn't know but the driver did, I could see evidence of rain clouds but gave it no real concern. A few minutes ride we pulled of and by now the routine of me hoping off and him going to rest in the shade was down to an art. Making my way past familiar walls and the like, I made my way ti the center which held 2 small brick towers in front of a much larger stone tower. It was an add formation but then again everything in Koh Ker fit its own pattern. The brick towers had something about them due to the grass growing inside. Where it popped out really shined and it just really fir perfectly. It was really clear that something in the way these type of towers here were made caused them to collapse over time the same way. One side would completely sheer off, the roof along with it. It's probably due to using heavy large stone blocks at the top creating to much pressure over time. All the same, these older towers are great to compare for me and I enjoy them.

    time was getting short and I knew this next place would be the final stop here, and if it wasn't I was going to make it the last since I wasn't going to miss Beng Melea. So getting off in Koh Ker one last time, I approach the walled temple. Here the rain starts a bit, although light still shocking as hell for me because rain just doesn't happen here in the middle of the winter. No matter, I covered my camera and took the few photo's I could here and although not rushing and getting a little wet I moved a little faster. The three large towers here had the same feel and the same front side collapsed as the others which really just gets me to think its all from the same cause. I do my circle and go inside each one, looking to the sky as little rain drops hit. Making my way back to the bike after my rounds it stops and moves back to just the same old clouds.....

     Leaving on the bike, I just said Beng Melea and the driver seemed to be heading there anyway but nodded in understanding. We passed a small tower here and there road side but I knew I'd have to come back another time far from now to see them all here. So onto Beng Melea it was, over an hour and a half back towards siem reap.

    Taking the rough drive back on the same roads was hard as expected but having done it once it can only be so bad. Just about back to where we bought the ticket was where we pulled off and to my surprise Beng Melea was only a few minutes past it. We pulled off to the side of the road where a few food stalls were and proceeded across to the long dirt entryway leading to Beng Melea. The path was extremely long and flanked by stone railings and lions all the way. I could see in the distance the mass of fallen stone that lay at the entrance far ahead. Passing some funny sights like one Asian tourist trying to give candy to one child then had a literal child army come out of nowhere and surround her, about half way down it took off early. To my sides were great views of the once moat, followed by some fallen stone and amazing tropical trees than can brighten up anything.

     The most detailed naga I've ever seen and possibly the best piece ever found on just an entryway came soon after on my left. I stepped back catching the ones on both sides, but really just wanted to get close and capture that detail. Decorated top to bottom so greatly just seeing the picture still amazes me. Walking up the remaining pathway, I find more naga's of equal detail but greater decay lying on the ground by the main steps.

    Realizing upon getting close that the massive pile of stone blocked all entry, I followed the outer wall right and passed through vast tree cover before finding steps leading into the temple over the wall.

     Inside the first section between walls, I notice immediately a building to my right covered in vines and straight ahead a long hall going into the space between the walls equally overgrown. Stunned and not really knowing where to go, an aspara guide looked at me and signaled to follow him. They work on a pay as you see fit deal, so I pay at the end what I think he deserved basically which worked for me. He takes me along the narrow ledge of a building and then through a collapsed doorway. Piles of stone lay everywhere covered in nature. Ducking under collapsed buildings, pulling myself up mountains of rubble, it doesn't take me long to love it here. Beng Melea is the only thing I hadn't seen yet, a fully untouched ruin left exactly how it was found giving you the feeling of a French explorer coming across it for the first time. Passing buildings filled with tarzan like vines and stone, tripping over boulders, seeing nature engulf everything, this place is unreal.

    This temple complex, consisting of three enclosures of square walls within each other is by far the most complex I've ever been in because of its state of ruin. I for the first time can not even begin to put together a layout of the place or even remember where I am, as ways are blocked and your forced to go over collapsed roofs, under walkways, over stone mountains etc. Three fully filled walls of buildings had collapsed over time. and without the neat restoration of everywhere else, the stone is still lying there blocking your every step and making you work for every inch. I was glad I had my guide even though it took a little away from the ruggedness of it. Deep inside having no idea where I was having gone under columns, through a walkway of a collapsed building again, it was anyone's guess where I came upon a fire burning away fallen branches and leave with locals nearby enjoying it...

    Soon after going through the usual patterns of climbing stone mountains, sometimes marveling that part of the mountain was made of beautifully carved lintels or columns I found myself going knee by knee under a small bridge that went from entrance to inner sanctuary I believe. These columns made me think back to Angkor Thom where I wondered there use, and here it was. We continued are travels in the middle, going past another stone filled building looking through a window. I wondered how I could be going through a hall and be looking into a window of another building but I guess when things collapse anything is possible. I make my way up a mountain of stone covered grass and eventually get a look at the bridge going into the building from the center. These mini bridges were had at all four entrance ways and obviously were important for those privileged to enter. Somewhere near here I'm shown the center building, the massive center tower that always marks the highlight of these temples... Rubble. A massive pile of stone like no other, nothing was remaining. That was actually great to see and I really smiled, an all natural tower from so many years ago as nature intended it to be.

    Continuing our walk alone the top level looking down at all the glory of this place, I pass a roofless long building or hallway covered inside with fallen leaves and left to right covered by vines and trees. It was one of the most picturesque things I'd seen and the picture really took itself. Every emotion could be triggered here, it just had a way of drawing you in. From here until we made it back out where we came in having only seen half the inside, it was nothing but hard trails and moss covered rock passing now and then a building so untouched you almost felt like sticking a flag in it and calling it yours own. Eventually I was back to where it began knowing that only half was seen because the other half is in such ruin as to be actually dangerous. It was over all to quickly, but the guide did very well and took the time to briefly explain some carving we'd seen along the way so I gave him a good fare.

    Not ready to leave, I walked around the entire outer wall checking out every long entrance path at every directions gate. Interestingly all the entrances from the outer wall had collapsed and left the same type of stone pile in front of them. The best part of the outer walk was the towers in each corner with wonderful asparas lining all the walls. Getting back to the front I really was in love with my time here and so glad I came. It all seemed liked the adventure would end here for the day, but it had only just begun. Upon starting back on the bike the skies just let rip on me and it poured for the entire almost 2 hours back. Muddy roads now, within minutes my legs were covered along with my arms, rain dripping down my face, and just about everything wet. Somehow I was able to smile and laugh as it just adds to the time. After maybe 30 minutes however I was cold damp and no to joyful about it anymore. The roads sucked but thankfully we made it to the paved Siem Reap road fast but that still meant almost an hour. The driver really nicely pulled over and got me a plastic bag to put my camera in some I wasn't huddled over it and it did the job. By the time we got back it had been a hard journey but a great day, and due to the rain gave the driver just a little more than agreed. Back in the room, I washed up quickly and then went straight to eat and relax. Heading to Battambang in the AM for some mountain views and home to the one and only bamboo train.....

     Sleep was a bit rough, as for some reason my alarm clock, a new one that I bought to take AA's since the other either fell out or was taken from my day bag. Since it shines gold I have a feeling someone thought it was worth something. Either way, it went off around 2am and really through me off having me thinking it was time to get up. Realizing it was a mistake, I did my best to get more rest until 7am when me and Tim got ready, had a quick meal and headed to the bus stop. The bus was there and we didn't have to wait long for the bus to become packed and ready to go. The drive was only about 2 hours and the same really as the way there, with me passing out every now and then. When we arrived all too quickly, I said my goodbye's to Tim who was heading to Phnom Penh and grabbed a tuk tuk to go once again to Okay guesthouse. As always they immediately ask if I want to go to the temples, I say no but deep down I really did want to go again. So much more to see.... Arriving at the guesthouse, I go upstairs to check in and although happy to see me they tell me there full. But right after I'm told to wait, and they quickly check if someone had left and within a few minutes I got a key a smirk telling me I was lucky but they were glad to have me again. I threw my bag in the room, grabbed my camera and went downstairs to pay the driver. But in my head I already knew what I was going to do, and instead of giving him the dollar, I negotiated a daily rate to see what I had I had missed before. And so it began, Angkor day 4. A quick trip to the ticket booth, performing the ritual of line waiting again before setting off towards Angkor Thom. At this point one thing is clear, I've become an addict in every sense with these Khmer temples. I can't get enough of them, and when I'm not seeing them I want to be back. While I'm there, the feeling is so incredible, but never like the first time I saw them and crave that extreme WOW factor I had the first few. Although a horrible analogy I think it's a funny one and it fits, so here goes. I feel like a child ruptured with something like Pokemon, but instead of trying to catch em all I'm trying to see em all. :-P

Baksei Chamkrong

This tower on a step pryamid was built by Harshavarman to house statues of Shiva and his spouse Devi. The outer wall that surrounded it no longer remains, but some things were restored by later kings. An important inscription lines the doorways praising kings from Jayavarman II onwards as well as lengendary kings.

     Now I had a few places in mind that I pointed to him on the map from my book, but we where headed first to Angkor Thom. My guide book had shown me a few places that I had missed totally which was really embarrassing, but the worst was when I was flipping through the pages for bayon and saw dozens of things I hadn't. Turns out in my rush to the faces, I had in fact without knowing it skipped the entire outer wall and most of the center. At this point I knew I had to go back, and finsish what I started days ago. Approaching the gate, I saw to my left a beautiful pyramid temple and basically yelled stop to the driver. I had without knowing it actually given myself three places to see, as they all lay in this small area. Walking towards my golden step like pyramid, I could feel the sense of adventure building up that I've come to crave. It looked so amazing, I just couldn't wait to climb it.  Four distinct tiers all far enough back from each other to give a look like nothing I'd seen yet. It was truly something.

     Getting to the steps, I stared them down fighting the urge to start them right away. I walk around the entire tower seeing it from both the left and right angles. The side views really gave it an edge, and I was already getting my moneys worth the first thing of the day.

     The view from the top was great, looking down the dirt path I'd taken to get here. The entire place was surrounded by tree cover, really giving it a lost feel when in the back. Once I had my look around the top level, passing by someone reading a book in the shade really taking in the place, I went into the center of the tower. The view from inside to the top was great, once again there was a hole in the top giving a great spiritual feeling as the light bursts down on you and feel the warmth of its rays. The sides of the doorway are littered with ancient khmer writings, one of the few of these I've seen. There quite rare, and why even today little is known about the Khmer lifestyle due to the little written record.

    Heading out, I look back to see the man still reading his book high up in the tower from a distance....

Prasat Bei

This temple is one of the few where the name actually matches the temple, as Prasat Bei means " Three towers " and it is just that. Consisiting of three side by side towers that probably were never finished. Two of the reach no higher than the doorways, and not all have been fully decorated.

Thma Bay Kaek

Little remains but a square platform. This as well as Prasat Bei were both built by Yasovarman I in the 10th century.

     Leaving the tower with a very pleased feeling, I head through the tree cover to another temple in sight a bit further back from the road. This simple yet elegant temple consists of three towers, although two look to have never been completed, since little stone is around to suggest there collapse. Sitting side by side on a raised platform, they have a nice feel about them as you appraoch. The main door has a commanding presence as you get near, and entering I once again have the privledge of looking up into a massive sky light.

     The two side structures are great due to the fact that they have no roof at all, giving you an uninterrupted view of the sky above. One side is completely clear with the blue sky all thats there while the other has great tree cover, giving the exact opposite feel. Overall this simple place is worth the visit and glad I noticed it.

     Directly in front of it are some really unimpressive ruins that have really nothing left to see. A small structure probably in the pathway to the temple it's in front of as an entrance, its only feature now is a massive linga representing shiva inside. Just beyond that theres a small platform where something once stood but where nothing remains, and to its left a small structure that holds the feet of a statue in its center, but looks more life a well now than anything else.

    Going back to the tuk tuk, we head back toward the main gate where I pass the familar struggle of statues off gods and demons yank the snake, something I've come to know as meaning I'm about to enter Angkor Thom. Pulling up to the Bayon, I look again at the wonderous structure I've come to love and can't wait to dive inside. This time entering through the side, the first thing I see is a serene looking buddha statue in the center of the outer wall corridors that I'd soon be walking.

      As I made my way around, It only tooks seconds for me to see what I was stupid enough to miss the first time. Masses of carved stone mark every inch of the inside of the outer wall. People ready to fight all over, elephants charging into battle, men on horses, even a scene looking like a cruxifiction lining every ince of the walls which take up to 10 minutes to get around each side even ignoring the carvings. Axes, arrows, swords, any thing battle related you could think of lined these walls. The carvings here are of a standard not even seen at Angkor. These are pristine, and the best condition ones I'd seen to date. I walked a full circle, really square, around the outer wall and took in ever scene. It would take far to long and to many pictures to show them all, so I've come up with what I think are the best to sum up my 45 minutes walk around the wall.

     It really did take me a long time to make it through the outside, and by the time I was headed inside I had lost a little taste for them having seen so many. The inner wall gallery would be more brief and not as in depth, but I'd get the idea before moving on. Right inside, looking to the sides I notice the mass of stone and the small buildings I believe were once libraries all over. I can't beleive I had skipped this as I'm usually so good about seeing everything, but looking ahead to the mountain of faces its once again easy to see how.

     Inside, I marvel at the maze like qualities that dot the interior at the bottom of the towers. Left brings you out to the right somehow, then back to the center, travelling far down one end and then turning somehow brings you to where you started... Getting lost in its maze like qualites is fun for a bit before hitting the inner walls. The reliefs here are just as detialed. but less war and mostly gods, yogi's, dancers, with the occasional battle here and there.

     At the top, I wonder around once again at home in array of faces, finding a place to sit in the shade for a moment and stare at them. The mass of people however doesn't really lend to reflection so before my memory up here gets replaced, I decided to head on. It was a good thing though, because time was short and it already being 1pm with so much left to see, I had to get moving. Not eating yet however, I stop for some rice before going on to the rest of Angkor Thom.

Suro Prat Towers

A series of 12 towers lining the side of the royal square. 6 sit on the left of the road leading to the royal palace while 6 more sit to the right. Behind them are the Khleangs, adding to overall feel. Built in the 13th century by Indravarman II.

The Khleangs

Built much earlier than the Prat towers that sit in front of them, the khleangs are from the late 10th century to ealry 11th under Jayavirvarman for the north, and Suryavarman I for the south. There use remains unclear as do the towers in front of them, but that should only add the mystery of the visit.

     Walking down the long road past where the elephant terrace is but on the oppostie side, I enter a field of towers that were really incredible. The first was really in bad shape, crumbling and very much unlike the others. This made it unique however, and making it to the back gave a great feel as stone met tree in a battle that the tree wins for sure.

     Moving from the first and looking on, I can see nearly all of them I thought in a line that really made them feel like one giant temple complex rather than individual towers. Moving along, behind the next few towers was the southern khleang. I knew from the book there was a northern one also, so I could now picture how the place was. Six towers on this side, and six on the other, each with a large building behind them known as the khleangs. From the front when the temples and roads where at there finest, the sight of these towers all in a row in front of massive buildings in perfect symetry must have been marvelous. Even now as I stare down the building and the towers together, I can get a small sense of what those people must have felt. Inside the long building, little remains but the wood keeping it from coming in on itself, but makes a great place to take in some shade and get great views of the towers from its windows.

     Outside, I notice a building not listed at all in my overly in depth guidebook and decide to check it out. While not much more than a platform remains with a modern buddha underneath a new structure, I liked the visit just not knowing what it was. Could have even been a walkway to the khleang, but I just wasn't sure as it was farther away than it should be for that.

     Back out front in the line of towers, I come out to the large basin of water still semi filled with water. The towers sitting in front of it give a pristine view and I really want to take this all in, so I hope over a small wall and sit directly in front for a few minutes. Walkin away afterwards, I realize that I no longer have my book, and although I make a vain attempt to go ind it, I knew that it was gone. I loved that book, as its advice was well worth its cheap price and immediately knew I'd negotiate one just as cheap or cheaper and get another one. But it didn't change that I was a little annoyed to have lost it. But that view.....

     Heading around to enter the north khleang, I pass a really terrific tower with a tree growing in the center that somehow hasn't damaged it one bit, in fact I'm not even sure the tree even touches the stone. It just sits dead center giving by far the best shot of on of these towers I'd gotten.

    The northern khleang followed the exact same pattern as the south, however the outside was in better condition and gave a better glimpse into what these two buildings looked like that flanked the one time road to the royal palace. I walked around inside for a bit before exiting the side and working my way towards the buildings I could see ahead.

Preah Pithu

A series of five temples in a wooded setting, although only two were built together. The complex consisted originally of large ponds surrounding some forming large moats although little evidence of that remains. Each has its own unique feel and worth the forest stroll. Some erected during Suryavarman II, others by Jayavarman VIII.

     My knowledge now more limited without the book I'd come to rely on, I knew only that I was entering an area of 5 temples, a complex of them all close together. The first of these was a large walled temple tower with crumbling walls. Piles of stone lined the walls, showing just how massive it must have been. I climbed to the top and could see four of the five, and now had a great idea of where I was going which really helped.

     The the 3 towers where very similar, but each had its own unique touches, One had amazing detail over the doorways and on its sides of aspara's, another had a wonderful tree line overhead which gave it a reall nice view when you stared towards the top. Yet another had a platform that it sat upon giving great views of the surrounds. I could feel myself rushing here, but these were nothing great spectacular and I was giving them each a little time and then moving on. I knew that I had other things to see that were a good drive and I was determined to see them. So I kept my steady pace until the fifth and final temple in the complex which was by far the most interesting for various reasons.

     As I approached, I was given a real nice view of a tree flanked small building, and soon after found myself lost in the jungle like aspects of the final temple. It was leaving it however where the real action began. I saw someone taking photos of monkeys on a temple, and so wanted to do the same. When I walked over however they all came within inches of legs and started making noise and poking at my pants. This made for a few cool photo's, but these guys can be really dangerous when they want to and so backed away rather nervously after. Heading back to the road, I passed something very unique. A large paltform with nothing on top, but completely surrounded by small round pillars. Nothing in khmer building seemed to explain this, and I had to chalk it up as a mystery for now.

Leper King Terrace

Most likely built during the riegn of Jayavarman VII and added to during Jayavarman VIII's alterations to the royal palace. This terrace sits near the royal square but more independent than the other structures. It's named after the 15th century statue that sits atop it, although from a much later period.

     Back on the road, I simply walked across seeing that I was directly across from where I wanted to go and my last two sights in Angkor Thom before having actually completed this massive ancient city. Somewhere between here and the road however I bashed by big tow against a stone and really cut it open. Nothing that couldn't wait until I was back, I had things to see. I made my way across into the trees of the other side and came across the terrace of the leper king. Now it actually is the end of the elephant terrace where this starts, but having though it was the same thing before missed it. This place was great, the reliefs were wonderful and the statue of a naked man on the top was really stunning in its uniqueness. The terrace is actually named after that statue, but for someone with lepresy to have been king would really surprise me. I just think they would have viewed him as an easy target and someone would have usurped him. Along the side, I realized I could actually go in between the walls which was terrific though not for the caustrophobic. The inside held amazing stone work like seven headed snakes and five headed horses. Before I could make it all the way around, I came upon a few kids sleeping on the floor. I didn't want to step over them and felt bad, so I let them be and kept going the other way.

Tep Pranam

A ginat buddha is worshipped here by a nearby modern temple, although the buildings are nothing but platforms now and little remians.

     Sitting deeper in the trees behind the leper king terrace is the ruins of tep Pranam. A modern temple still worships a buddha statue on the ruined temple platform, but nothing remains of the building. The pathway once leading to it is however still there, flanked by by nagas and lions. I give it a quick lookover before heading on.

Preah Pithu

A series of five temples in a wooded setting, although only two were built together. The complex consisted originally of large ponds surrounding some forming large moats although little evidence of that remains. Each has its own unique feel and worth the forest stroll. Some erected during Suryavarman II, others by Jayavarman VIII.

     Just a bit further behind I made my way to the temple I could see in the distance, hoping it was the right tower and my last stop here as I didn't wat to be lost. It was almost 3:30 giving me only 2 hours to see me remaining 4 sights. But as soon as I saw it I knew Iw would not be rushing here. A massive tower in semi ruins sits nestled up with trees and trunks bulging from its base. Staring at the top the view you get is other worldly. Its so perectly accented by the trees and the stumps, I can't look away. Eventaully however I get the urge to climb the crumbling steps and make it to the center. From up here, touching the trees I get a great sense of joy. Very excited, I hope through the mass of stone in the center from the collapsed ceiling and make my way to the otherside. The trunks are in full view now, and after looking them over I make my way back down to get more views of this amazing piece. I here a guide say to the only other 2 people here that the trunks of the three trees were just cut days ago to stop the weight from ruining of crashing down the tower. It would have been wonderful to see it covered in nature, but being able to see it all is probably thanks to the preservation efforts.

     I reluctantly make my way back to the tuk tuk and after almost 4 hours here move on to my next few destinations hopefully completeing everything I wanted to see in the main Angkor area.

Thammanon

While Angkor wat was being built, this building also was being erected under the eye of Suryavarman II in the 12th century. This small temple surrounded by a high wall has amazing detail and although restoration has taken place, most is still original. The style of Angkor can be felt immediately in the compact tower that sits in the center.

Chao Say Tevoda

Sitting directly across from Thammanon. this temple of the same preiod is very similar although in a more ruined state. Also surrounded by a large wall, the temple follows a similar layout, although with one extra building inside the complex.

      Pulling off to the side of the road a few minutes dow the road from Angkot Thom, I see something new and all too excited. Seeing two places, one on each side of road was not however what I expected. Turns out my next two places sat across from each other which was perfect and saved a little time. Approaching, I can see most of the temple due to its walls being mostly in ruin. The sign tells me this is Chao Say Tevoda, and I enter other a few stones past the wall. I can recognize the style from many other places, but really similar to Phimai in Thailand.

     Making my through the square, looking through the small buildings in the corners, walking slowly and looking up at the sky through the not so there ceiling. The detail on the outside of the main building was really nice at parts, so I went around to try and see what else I could find. A really stunning aspara was on the corner of the main tower, and by far stood out the most.

      The layout here was small, and even entering the center tower didn't use much time. Dark, there was little I could do without a light which I didn't have. Eventually I made my way out a side entrance which seeing the pathway of stone showed me it was proabaly the main entrance. I walked down in towards where it enters the tree line and gave a look at the temple from the outside. From here it was back to the center where I wandered a bit and just tried my best to see everything before heading across the road to Thammanon. Before getting there however, I bought a new guide book cheap as always from a book seller and was all too happy to have it back.

     Across the road and approaching Thammanon, I can't help but notice even from far away that there are some real similarities between the two neighbors. The interior layout is the same minus one building really, and the walls are almost the same state of ruin. What is different however is the detail payed to this one. The almost all original exterior I learned from a nearby guide was just stunning. Here I strayed from the norm and immediately payed attenion to the center.

      As I walked the grounds and checked the smaller buildings, the walls, and some smaller things, I couldn't help notice ther center and its perfect glow from the light as the sun began to go down. This was the oerfect setting to visit this temple and the perfect time as any other light would just not do this place justice. The glow on the asparas on the corner of the main temple was one of if not the most stunning carving I've ever seen, and I owe it to the perfect sunlight. Everything benefited equally, from the small buildings to the center, with its Angkor style tower glowing and the doorways half covered. As I watched, I chatted with a girl from Boston and an older couple where equally blown away.

    I do my last rounds before leaving, but not before taking a final look back at an amazing place. Definitely had some of the rush of seeing something that perhaps no one else will the same way.

     Bat Chum

Consists of three towers on a row on a platform much like Prasat Bei, although the style remains very different. The towers are in ruin and under restoration. Middle of the 10th century under Rajendravarman.

     About a 10 minute ride later down the road towards where I went to Banteay Kdei from days before, I pull down a dirt road that loops through countryside past cows grazing until reaching Bat Chum, a small temple in ruins and heavy restoration. I probably spent 5 minutes here as the 3 towers side by side, similar to Prasat Bei, were in ruin but what really turned everything off was the massive bamboo scaffolding. I spent maybe 2 of the minutes checking out the scaffolding lol, it was kinda cool.

     Prasat Kravan

This unusual temple of five towers in a single row is set back on the road from angkor wat. At first they look rather plain and only the color stands out, but upon further inspection they contain treasures of there own. Known for its unique carvings that line the entire insides of the towers. Probably unfinished, as most don't make it past the doorway and some carving looks incomplete.

     Just a minute or so down the road was a temple I had passed maybe 10 times during my 3 day trip here before, but just never stopped. No driver ever wanted to nor did I ever speak up say to nay of them " Hey pull over ", and it was strange finally being there and stopping. The five side by side towers are in view right away and man do they shine! The color, like a red mud brick just its perfect and I can already tell its going to be a nice end to the day. The walkway I notice is lined with paper bags with candlea inside, and I have no idea what for. I just watch all the different angles as I make my way to the back, taking tons of photo's of the stunning front.

     The rear really lets me know whats going on as purple satin chairs line two tables in front of the platform causeway once ajoining the temple. A wedding was most likely taking place here, or maybe a celebration at sunset.

     As I made my way inside the center tower, I was shocked by the inside. Huge carvings of each of the main 3 gods, Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva line each wall. The piece takes up the entire tower, and the carvings almost double me in height. There are truly great, and become the perfect way to end my day. These carvings gave me a wow factor at the end, not the middle, and there really is a diference. As I make my way outside again, I wonder what the other towers have to offer. Although smaller and have the unfinished look, my hopes are high.

     Three out of the remaining four have no interior carvings, but the last one on the right did which was much to my delight. The front wall had a great one going all the way up, while the sides where only have finished.

    Leaving, I turn around and see the beautiful color once more, this time even better as the sunlight hits it just right. A great way to end the day. The tuk tuk ride back will be during sunset as usual, so a great view awaits along the way...

     The entire next day way spent uploading this blog as happened last time when so much is done so fast! :-P

      Up right around 5am to get ready for the sunrise, I got dressed and surprisingly awake went out and headed towards the door of the guesthouse. By then the others where already on there way out aswell, and we all met outside right on time. The three drivers were already waiting, so we jumped on the backs of the motorbikes in the pitch black of pre-dawn, and started our ascent up the mountain to Preah Vihear. The bikes started up the winding dirt roads of the mountain, and are journey had begun. All too early the temp. was far below what I had gotten used to down in southern Cambodia. As we fly on the bikes at high speeds zipping around corners, the icy cold chill of the wind sends shivers down my spine. As the bikes roar there way up, the wind blasts every inch of the body only covered by shorts and T-shirt. As I shiver, I find that I love every minute it. Still dark, going past the views of the towns below starting to look like ants as we get higher and higher, the wind blasting me just seems to make me feel alive.

     Adrenaline flowing, I mentally start pumping myself up for more, hoping he goes faster and pushing more ice cold wind my way. As we approach the top, the road turns very rocky and I find myself leaving the seat now and then as the bikes hits the hard bumps. Stopping, I knew we where there, but where that was I had no idea. Still pitch black, the three of us get of the bikes and look around. We arrange at 9am pick-up giving us 3 hours to explore. We head straight towards the sillouette of a wall we can tell is stone from a temple. We can barely see it but know its there. As we step up the many stairs, we see the sun starting to peek through the clouds. Ahead of us where a massive set of ruined stone stairs leading even higher, and we decide to get to the top and see the sunrise there. It seemed like where skipping things at first, but as we passed the stairs we realized we couldn't see anything clearly and weren't missing anything, we were simply going to start from the top and work are way down after the light came up. After reaching the top of stairs, more stone came into view, and another set of massive steps in stone. Seeing even yet a fourth level ahead, we now knew that this was a temple that went up in four tiers all in a line to the very top. We saw a magnificent view from tier three, so thats were we stayed. We lost Caleb however, as the cold was really getting to him, and he hid behind some stone to get out of the wind. As me and Tim approached the edge, we got more than we could have ever asked for. Dawn starts to break, the clouds in formations only the heavens knew before. We stare, getting blasted by wind, and just stay in awe at what lay ahead.

     I wish I could say that I had a care in the world about how cold I was, but I can't because I didn't. The only this that I knew was this, that I was watching the most beautiful thing I had seen in as long as I can remember and I just didn't know why. What I did know was that this moment was the start of a unforgettable time up here, and thats all that mattered. The view along with the fact that I was sharing it with a friend was great, but it was the bodily feeling that made it all complete. Not to mention that we where alone up here, making things all the more amazing. To have a place like this to yourself is just too good to be true. As I looked on into the clouds, pelted by the lie bringing wind I'm forced to feel it. It's not just a mental feeling now, it's coupled with a physical feeling of truly being alive. I can't fully explain it, but in that moment I had not a care in the world. No amount of cold, no amount of fear from falling of the cliff below, getting sick etc, nothing was taking this away. For these moments I was free from the confines of my usual thinking, a moment I'd searched for my whole life. Any instant the feeling could pass, and holding on until that moment was all that I was doing.

    As the sun seemed to have disappeared behind heavy clouds, we smiled and painfully turned away. We head into the temple that was the fourth and final part and headed towards the back to start at the end before the light truly revealed what we had waiting for us. I rushed for the back just for that reason, while Tim waited inside. Upon reaching the back after ducking through a small stone window and over rubble, I came upon part two of the sunrise I'll never forget. I ran back and got Tim, who slowly followed me and when we both got to the back he stopped, thanked me, and we both headed for the mass of rocks at the very edge of the mountain overlooking the fully round disk of the bright orange sun.

     Climbing the rocks, stopping to take a photo of a rather strange round stone structure looking like a well, I made it to the best viewing point the entire mountain had to offer. Just as the feeling probably would have went away, it was fully regenerated 10 fold, and thrown into over drive as I stood looking thousands of feet down and then up towards the full dawn. Wind still gusting, there was never a moment I was more lost in than this. A state of trance was not far away, but I was fully aware of everything. This was everything to me. We stayed there for a long time, moving from rock to rock, sometimes sitting and taking it all in. As tim went to the edge for a photo, I shot one of the rocks he was on enjoying the moment as much as me. As I sat on a rock with the colors behind me, I had my picture taken in full glory of the moment. Nothing in the world could have come together more perfect than this did, and although I knew that once I left this rock, this moment would never be here again. Putting myself in it 100%, losing myself in it and just appreciating it while it was here was all I could do, and I did just that.

    Finally leaving knowing full well the outcome, it was time to actually start the original purpose of being here, the temple of Preah Vihear. What I already knew was that my time here was the full package, to me Preah Vihear will go hand and hand with mountain top views it brings, and the two can not be separated. The temple will either make things even more wonderful, or will be overrun by the mountain top sunrise. Either way, nothing can be ruined. Before getting far we started to notice military troops walking the temple grounds, confirming the fact that the on going conflict between cambodians and thais here is still ongoing. We made our way into the temple, the final one if heading from the top and not backwards like us, and went inside. Lit now by the dawn light, stepping in the first thing that hits me is a real " wow ". Not because of any massive carvings or detail, but because one half of the tmeple is pristine while the other has been blown to bits by TNT, or so it looks. As I walk around through the middle of the wall that surround the center building, I can't help but admire the genius it must have taken to get all this stone so far up here.

     Walking around, I find to my surprise I'm still buzzing from earlier although not exact, remnants remain giving me a smile that won't leave and jumpy like a kid with a never-edning bag of candy. I circle around the inner area of the temple, trying to find its little hidden gems. Moving to the side of the temple still in tact, I am really taken back the every so prefect golden light given to the temple by the rising sun. The gift that keeps on giving, this ball of gas just keeps dropping me gems that I take without thinking twice. On all sides in different amounts, the stone is graced by the light.

     The space betweem the center and the walls are lined with columns, remnants of the left side of the inner wall. The other sides still remains, allowing you to walk fully between the wall. The space here is really something although its the entire package that I was really impressed with and everything and anything was getting bonus points right now. I was in a mood that couldn't be critical, a very strange change for me indeed.

     Walking around eventually leads me to a tiny corner where I slip by and call Tim over. In the corner is tons of pieces of stone that still needed to be put back in place but never were, all laying against the wall hidden away. Among these was a giant five headed naga or snake, in full detail and all original. I really was amazed by it and that these actually graced the corners of this structure.

     Leaving the top level and making our way to the third, stepping out gives the view of the all to impressive third tier and its buildings. It looks even more impressive than the top, mostly because of its fantastic preservation. The perfectly straight stone path leads to it, and staring down I remember that that straight path goes from tier to tier all the way down. Before stepping off, I notice a lion that is just being silhouetted perfectly by the sun directly behind it, and do my best to capture it. I do my best, and then we begin heading down the path to start the next chapter.

     Once at the entrance we could see our MIA friend, and we stop and chat. He was just really messed up by the cold so skipped the sunrise and just started exploring on his own when it got warming after the sun was up. My heart truly wept for what he missed.

      Looking around, I could see some amazing things that had happened to the walls overtime. They looked like they were melting. as thee ground had shifted and the rocks were holding each other in place by the corners of blocks pressing against each other. It was quite amazing to see. Looking back at where I came, I saw a building, but what I really saw was the rocks with x-ray vision, my mind just seeing what it wanted to. Soon after Tim pulled out a box of Ritz crackers, cheese and bread from his bag. This guy was amazing and the most prepared person travelling I'd met. Breakfast was on him, and we took a break here.

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     As I've about to move on down to the 2nd tier, I see the other 2 are not so ready. They want to head back to the top one last time before heading down the long stairs and knowing they won't be going back up. I stare laughing to myself as if I had thought going back up to be impossible. I raced to catch up and get back to my favorite spot in the world now, the rocks over looking the entire plain, and what once over looked my sunrise. Getting there, I all go close to the edge to finally see whats below here, and see thats it sheer cliff that drops straight down so far that it blurs at the bottom. It was great to see it in full light, and I walked around for a bit on the rocks. By accident, I found a small opening in the rocks that looked like cave, which led out onto a small flat terrace jetting out from the side of the mountain. Under here shielded from the wind, a different kind a wonder came over me. A silence came, looking down the mountains side. Wind still gusting, as I can see but not feel as I stare for minutes at a small bush hanging for dear life growing on the side of the rock face. To the right under the rock thats overhead is a small shrine, and the start of a barb wire fence, the first real evidence of fortification I'd seen here. The view from here was wonderful, and a truly great sight. After some time, we head back down and this time decide to go for the 2nd to last level and start our exploring there.

     Exiting the doorway, I see to my right a small tower with a full grown tree growing right out of it, vines crawling all over one side. I walk over and around it, really enjoying it as I always do with structures that are so intertwined with nature.

     Not to long after it's down the path, looking down to the temple awaiting me below. It's hallways go left and right from its center, and the arches over them from the front give the appearance that its has pikes going up from its sides. The view of it from up top is stunning and I can't wait to get to it. From here on, more and more soldiers start to appear on the paths heading down. Tim is as always engaging them into broken Khmer which they seem to enjoy so much. Making down there is some nice touches to it, but it was obvious from above that the structure only went to the sides and wouldn't have much to see. The doorways were adorned with men tugging on a snake and elephants and animals helping in the action. The other side was in ruin, but the approach down hill had all the view I needed from this tier. The beauty of this place was incredible, going down was bitter sweet as I wanted to keep seeing more, but was still buzzing over what I had seen and didn't want to leave.

      About halfway down the path leading to the bottom tier, to the right was a large water basin that once held water for the temple complex here. How it was filled way up here I don't know, but I can see how there filling it now. A man is inside pumping water in from below to give it back its feel and better restore its original look. I go inside and poke around, loving the view from inside. Outside the pool, I talk with a solider and laugh a bit, and he lets us take his photo which really just shocked me. They were just so laid back and friendly.

     Further down, I reach the spot where our moto's dropped us and see the flags of UNESCO flying high, letting everyone know that this is a World Heritage Site. The bottom level is just a small entrance way and in bad shape, but I understood because we had done it backwards, basically the best first.

     But there was more down here then we thought, as we could see stairs going much further down to the bottom of the mountain. We started down, and about halfway reached two giant snakes lining the stairway, each with unique features that were just awesome.

     Not to much farther down was the sign showing the place was cleared of mines, something I've seen all to often and will see again. Just 4 years ago, over 600 mines were still active here from the Vietnam war making all travel here risking everything. It's truly crazy to think about, but I'm really glad that this place is now open and I was able to have this time here. Down here its all too real just how much preparation there is for war with Thailand as bunkers with machine guns line the mountains edge fully armed with solders. Being up top things seemed so calm, no evidence of anything serious, just s nice temple. But here, you truly feel like the temple is just inside a military base, and so are you. From the bottom its obvious we went down quite a bit, and that only from tier 1 to basically tier 0 since its ground level. Its here that I hit the entrance sign for Preah Vihear temple, proving that the way I traveled this was truly odd indeed. I didn't even enter where I thought I did.

     Down here at the bottom level was at first what I though to be shops for visitors, but soon realize its for all the soldiers and there families stationed here. Kids are everywhere, dozens of off duty soldiers eat and watch a movie. It was truly evident here that we had just walked into a military outpost and no one cared. not only that, they were all too kind and happy to show us around and interact with us and the children. Cambodia is truly amazing and this experience right now will never happen again. If I had in any way had basically tried to do what happened here, I'd have been shot back home. But here, I get nothing but smiles and the shaking of hands with solders.

     Back up top, we go to meet our moto's and pass some remnants of the times when mines littered the area. We pass more bunkers and more solders, but never feel in harms way. But the reality is that whether I wanted to believe it our not, just last April men were killed here as shots were fired from the Thai side. I probably shouldn't be able to say this, but I can really now say that I have walked a battlefield in a military base for hours without even knowing it. I had known about the skirmishes, but coming in the dark allowed me to make it to the top without seeing the real deal before the temple. Leaving and riding down the mountain on the moto's at full speed, we pass the same mountains views and a nice breeze, but this time see hundreds of soldiers lining the sides in camps, a truly unique way to end a truly unique place.....

    Back at the village, Caleb goes and tries and find a ride to Koh Ker and do a very hard ride back to Siem Reap in a circle. I want to tag along, but already had agreed to split a car back to Anlong Veng with Tim. He slept a while and I followed Caleb around town a bit passing some kids playing what is basically volleyball but with a small soccer sized ball thats hit with the feet only. We then had breakfast, and soon after he was off on his motorbike. Around 2 hours later, we got in our car and were going to be off ourselves, headed back to Anlong Veng. During the ride back, I start to think about Preah Vihear, and realize that I'll never know when the great eelings left, as it happens so slowly. Only thinking about it now do I realize how far away it is know. I can close my eyes an almost bring myself back.. Almost. The ride is short and getting out in Anlong Veng, I go to a recommended guesthouse and get a room. Tim ends up coming back from checking the buses and decided hes going to split the room with me and take the bus back to Siem Reap in the morning instead of taking off this afternoon. We sit in the room a few minutes getting our things settled before heading out for lunch and the sites. As I sit on my bed, I feel the breeze from the fan as its passes me on its swing, and the cool air for a slight second has me in a deja vu mentally back in Preah Vihear.

    After negotiating some moto's, we head off to see the only local sights all be them a whole different type. Anlong Veng was the last stronghold of the Khmer Rouge and on of the most heavy mined during the war. The sights here are modest, being Pol Pot's grave and house as well as his officers. As we start the journey, we go to Ta Mok's house, on of the highest in rank during the genocide here. They want two dollars to go down the road which leaves a bad taste with us and we decide to skip it. A few minutes further down the road was his grave. This had my jaw drop. We rode into a small temple and find a large decorated pagoda with the stone grave inside. I stare shocked and almost hurt, a man responsible for killing so many given such a respectful burial... It made no sense, but in these parts little does. Perhaps the fear is still strong here, but to give this man this and vwith a view of the surrounds for all time just seems wrong.

     Leaving here, we head about ten minutes uphill on paved roads, passing some nice scenery until hitting a small strip of houses. We pull off the road, and our drivers take us in the back yard of a house and down a dirt path where we come to the resting place of Pol Pot himself. At least not a pagoda, the simple tin roofed place is probably still too befitting of a man who killed 3 million people. Here, incents line the front and a proper garden planted by locals. There's even a small shrine erected by a man who claims pol pot gave him lottery numbers in his dream. Its all too much for me really. Tim talks about it with out drivers who in broken english just curse him up and down, pol pot that is. We don't stay long at either place, as curiousity brought us here but upon coming giving it any more time seems disrespectfuk in it self.

     Me and tim break here, as he just doesn't seem interested at all and almost seems frustrated to have wasted money. I on the other hand wanted to go further and complete the trip finishing with pol pot's house, so I gave him the key and would meet him back at the room. The ride to the house was the most insane trip I'd ever taken. Into the mountains on bike with no road, just bashing through buses and bumping over rocks making the bike almost tip many times. After an hour of up and down, wrong turns and getting lost out here, the ride was fun and adventurous but all to real. The fact was that this place was heavily mined and although technically mostly de-mined, the key word is mostly. Getting lost was not safe, and I allowed myself some real nervous thoughts here. But eventaully, up our final path of heavy ass hurting rocks, I came across the isolated house. Really some homeless have had better digs, and this surprised me. As a communist leader, I pictured a dictator with lavish things but this was true to form. Nothing but a small bunker like house with low ceilings and a balcony overlooking the mountains. Inside was dreary and cold, too small for anyone to live I think. But it had a powerful affect on me as I realized from this that this man must have actually believed everything he did, all the killing, was actually for a cause he really believed in. Overlooking the mountains, I ponder it a bit before getting on the bike for the long trip back.

     In town again, I enter the room to ind him asleep but woke up when the door opened. We rested up before going and grabbing a few beers and watching the news for a while before going to grab dinner. We chatted away and caught up and my little extra trip. Later we watched some video's on my laptop, Tom and jerry cartoons, and soon realized I probably had to many. All in all one of the most emotion filled days I've ever had. Every end of the specturm was hit today, every single but of it. Tomorrow it's back to Siem reap as a junction to the rest of cambodia...

    
      Packing my things and getting ready, I spent the morning on the internet since the bus to Anlong Veng wasn't until 1:30pm. After a few hours on the good old PC, it was up to the restaurant for lunch and then check out. I really loved it here and hate to leave, but I have really high hopes for what awaits me. Heading down stairs, the owner was waiting to drive me to the bus station and was all to easy. Arriving at the station, I sat down, had my ticket checked and then grabbed some waters for the journey. Sitting down since I was a half hour early, I started chatting with an fellow from England in 40's, and we just went on about Laos. When the bus came and we got our bags on and settled in our seats, we kept the chat going for a bit. The ride was only 2 hours, and to my surprise consisted of a perfect paved road the entire trip, passing beautiful countryside. I went in and out the entire ride, sleeping here and there, so arriving in Anlong Veng felt like no time at all. I had every intention of staying overnight here, and going around to the few local sights. However, upon stepping off, me and Tim, the English gentleman, saw the only other foreigner on the bus talking to someone about getting a private car to Preah Vihear. We both immediately looked at each other and knew we had to join him, since it was both of our destinations anyway and 3 people splitting the Toyota Camry would be very cheap. So we got a price set and we were off, all very happy that it worked out so nice. I will simply hit Anlong Veng on the way back. 


       We all chatted away about the  wonders of Angkor, and how crazy it was that we were on our way to see another temple. I knew Preah Vihear was not that accessible, but the road that we hit was one of the most interesting I'd ever done. Although in the middle of being paved, it's currently a mass of dirt and piles of stones, making cars tilt halfway over going through these piles. Only room for a single lane with cars going both ways, its gets hairy. Pulling into the village of Preah Vihear, the reality of just how out of the way I was really hits. Not another foreigner in sight. Just a simple village with a small market at its heart, no more than 2 blocks in all.

      We find our way to our rooms, having only 2  places to chose, I opt for the cheaper $5 room. After we were all settled in, we just went about the town looking around, eventually settling somewhere to eat. Tim had a great Khmer vocabulary which came in handy since there was no English here, so eating was a challenge. But he was able to get his order done in Khmer, while me and Caleb just pointed to a noodle dish that was already made and got something similar back. Dinner went really great as we all got know each other and as it got later conversation changed to news and politics etc, which made for a great time. Around 9pm we decided to turn in, but not beore wondering the town looking for bread or cakes we could quickly eat in the morning. Having gotten what we needed, we all headed back to our rooms and relaxed before calling it a night. It was going to an early one, as we arranged for 3 motorbikes to meet us at 5:30am for a sunrise at Preah Vihear....