A couple years ago I visited some islands in southern Laos and was sick the entire time. Since the islands are an easy way to get to Phnom Penh in Cambodia where I want to spend the holidays I figured its a great spot to hang for a bit. Heard Phnom Penh has a race track where you can get into suped up go karts and race around with a cambodian twist... Theres a bar at the track and theres nothing to do while you wait but drink so everyone races smashed. Good ol cambodian fun. Plus my moneys getting pretty low and there about the only place I know where you can get by on about $10 a day for everything.

     So this morning after leaving Pom's I headed to the train station for my last ( Hopefully ) overnight train journey to laos followed by an overnight bus trip down to the islands. This is going to test the limits of sitting on my ass like never before lol. Looking forward to the islands though and hoping they'll also be a fun way to save some money.

     For the next two days I'll be on the move but at least I've gotten everything completely up to date. Thanks to everyone whos still following along. 

      
       Theres so much that happened this past week and yet for the first time on this trip I stopped keeping the mental journal with perfect notes. I got lost in a great time with a good person and instead of a day to day blog what I have in a my head is a giant memory of a week than seemed to blend perfectly together. This time I cared and it showed. I lost track of time, pictures, and the blog. So much happened that I want to share and yet this time I feel like doing so isn't right. So much of it runs into her personal life her having a BF already due back on the 16th ( Said too much already ) and with me staying at her apt for a week theres no much that doesn't feel that way. I've wrote the text for this whole post already yet I'm not sure if I want to post it. Would mean throwing myself out there emotionally a bit aswell as I really grew to care for her. For now I'm just going to throw up the pictures and maybe if I change my mind add the text tomorrow.


          *** changes my mind and posted it, might disappear though again ***

       Took me a while to get this all caught up but I'm happy its completely up to date again. Reason for delay being after going to gullivers after the kings birthday I stayed rather late and ended up talking to someone I'd seen in there before but never said anything. We got to talking about each other and soon the stories unfolded about her boyfriend back in england and how she'd lived there for a few years with a ex husband. I wondered a bit how her english was so good. Stayed at the bar until about 2 am before getting some late night eats at mcdonalds and heading back the her apt.

      The first morning involved running over to my guesthouse in the morning since I was due to check out but wasn't even sleeping there. Paid for a night again for a place to keep my things but in my head I had a feeling I'd be moving my things soon. 
      
       Within a couple days I had checked out and was living at her place until whenever but before the 16th when her BF came home. This entire thing was so different but yet all too familiar unfortunatley. Getting myself into situations as the other person too common. However everything about her was new to me. She had a wealthy boyfriend but was wealthy herself with a few shops in the city and a rather nice apt in the very expensive khao san area. I may not have known what to make of the situation now but each coming day put me more and more into a blissful state of living moment by moment.

       The days that followed are fresh in my head but yet they blend together to make on giant memory rather than something I can blog about day by day. My daily routine started to take on a local feel with mornings that began at 6am and getting a cheap local breakfast and catching the morning breeze before returning home to sleep again. Afternoons where usually quiet with walks around the park or with movies stalling time unitl the evening came to head out to a friends restaurant or to gullivers for drinks in the evening. While every day was different it was the overall routine that one would associate with living here that really grew on me. Got to know some of her friends really well especially B who worked as a server at a restaurant of khao san rd. We visited there for a couple beers just to say hello almost every night and it a pleasant stop on the way home.

     There were some major highlights of coarse that made each day unique even if the small things have blended together. Early in the week after a walk in the park we took a ferry across the river to a local BBQ style restaurant where mini coal grills are put on every table and a buffet of raw meat is at your disposal to cook yourself right at your table. The place was incredible and sizzling of everyones grill and the smells of all too much food only added to the fun. The day the BBQ theme continued only this time it was at home. Ordered a kilo of fresh prawns and shellfish and cooked an unbelievable ammount of cheap seafood slowly over the grill all night soaking in the air eating over a period of 2 hours. Everyone from the apts next door seemed to join in making it feel like a real communal dinner.

       A few days later things when things could have easily started to feel boring a friend of Poms called and wanted her to go upstairs and play cards. What I found when I went up there was a room full of post op ladyboys playing rummy for small bets. Very interesting to watch Pom play and chat with her every time I felt like all eyes where on me.

Getting ready for some pool and drinks at gullivers. 

      Leaving this morning sucked. Short period of time but when neither one of you are working and spend every hour together for a week things move fast. Sucked for two reasons really. One is that it was a great time and I care and leaving was a bit hard. But the second is that I know in a few days when I'm having fun the whole thing will move to the back on my head and for the most part ill forget all about it. A few phone calls will happen before I get annoyed at the complications of the whole thing and stop picking up. I got issues.

      
      Having waited out the afternoon I headed back out to the park around 5:30 hoping to catch some of the action leading up to the real festivities I made the mistake of thinking started earlier this morning. The walk was noticeably more crowded heading over towards the park and by the time I hit the highway it was a full on mob of people headed in every direction. Thousands of people fighting with cars for road space as police did there best to keep things moving. It was quite a change from just 4 hours ago but refreshing as it reaffirmed my high hopes for the night.

      Inside the park after fighting the roads and parades you could really feel the energy starting to pick up. Once bare green fields where now packed with people staking early claims to prime spots for tonight. Tents once empty where now only open to those willing to spend an hour fighting heavy crowds. In the distance I could see stages being set up for later and louds of thai military filing the open spaces in full uniform ready for presentations later in the night.

       Soon after I starting walking around the giant track like loop that surrounded the park to check out the roads and possibly any parades marching by. It was here though that I realized this seemed like one of those places where you could see everything with a mediocre view or you could stake out one spot early and see one thing with a perfect view. I did my best to fit through gaps in the crowd and get close to the barriers near the road to see some awesome lighting of nearby temples and buildings. With sun setting and lights coming on everything here was really starting to get into full swimg. My height was proving great when it came to pictures as everyone in front of me was a full foot shorter so I just raised my camera and had a full view. As I was doing this a young Thai girl was on her toes arms raised above her head trying to get a picture above the crowd. She gave me a look as I took my picture with ease and just starting giggling and walking away but I grabbed her camera and took the some photo I took for myself. Pretty funny though.

      Following the roadside barriers around the park I made my way to a view of the royal palace glowing in gold with the help of the nighttime lighting. Really a sight to behold and with the wall of the palace and the wall of people I again managed pictures thanks only to my height. I walked rather slowing here as Moving just a little created a better angle of the palace and I found my self taking roughly the same image with a minor change many times over. 

      In front on the palace gate I was looking at there were ceremonial soldiers instead of the usual casual army guards which was pretty cool. They don't stand still like there equaling crazy hat wearing european brothers do lol.

      Further along the path I had made it to the other end looking directly down the center of the park opposite where I came in. Now it being almost completely dark everything had a different feel to it. Lights where beaming into the sky from the stage and signs where clear that things would soon be underway.

      About 3/4 the way around There where some blue lights that from far away looked like lighting attached to a building but where in face hanging from above lighting the entire road on this side. While the opposite side was cleared of foot traffic for parades and entering dignitaries this side was a full on carnival street with thousands making there way down the gorgeous arrangements of lighting. I have no idea when it happened but heading down the road it really occured to me just how many more people were here than an hour ago. Hundreds of thousands where expected and while earlier that seemed greatly exaggerated it was looking more and more like a reality.

      I walked until there was an opening leading back into the middle of the now almost unbreakable wall of people and tried to get closer to see something. I have no idea how it happened but I got bounced around like a pinball for a bit by people who were moving quick and knew where they going as opposed to my going with the flow. I managed to get pushed to within yelling distance of the stage and in a prime viewing spot for of the speech of Prime Minister Yingluck Shiniwatra. At this point there were so many things that were becoming clear. This was the single largest gathering of people I'd ever been to in my life with over a 1/4 million people. The love of the king here in thailand is absolute and unbreakable and so many had traveled so far and yet not gotten as close as I had. The atmosphere was so powerful I felt like I was in the clouds and yet it wasn't really an event meant for me at all. The mood of the people just made it impossible not to be having a great time even in the midst of such crowds.

      About a half hour after standing in my spot things got underway and you could really see just how big a whos who of thailand this event was. Top military brass from every branch, celebrities of all types, miss thailand, governors, the prime minister herself and too many more. All taking somber walks to the stage delivering ceremonial items that once complete would mark the beginning of teh candle lighting ceremony. I was grining ear to ear for most of it and I'm not sure why. I just found it amazing to be so close to so many important people here.

      I lasted about an hour and a half of the 2 hour ordeal before having to step aside and give up spot due to the need for something to drink. This proved to be one of the best choices as I got to stumble upon the lighting of a different type of candles... the ones that fly. All along the roads surrounding the park people where light there giant paper candles and as they filled with gas from the flame slowing lifted off like a balloon. Watching the entire process was magical. Some fail and burn to the ground the while others slowly rise and join hundreds of others now drifting though the night sky. I stayed here for a bit and watched in amazement as the young and old all enjoyed the popular pastime. I have no idea how long I would have stayed but the abrupt roar of the crowds back where I was previously standing told me things where moving along.

      Really though at this point all I could do was turn around as getting within 5 minutes walk of where I was before was impossible. However when I reached the point where I had to stop a nice lady handed me a small yellow candle to light and join in with the tens of thousands of others that where all lit at the same time. It was really an amazing this to take part in and even more so as to the thais its a giant gesture of there love for the king. Fireworks started shooting off not long after the candles where lit which for most signaled the end of the nights events. Many would stick around until the wee hours of the morning milking every last bit of it but I had had my fill. Truly amazing.

      Going home isn't exaclty easy though. What happens when 100,000+ people all decide to leave at the exact same time with absolutely no directions being given from authorites? Your fucked. Combine that with the fact that people take over highways and cars push right into people to keep moving and its a death trap. A fun one though. What is really a 5 minute took long enough where I stopped keeping track but I did move through without any serious issues.

      Back on Khao San Rd things seemed brighter. The neon lights that usually annoyed me seemed pretty, the noise seemed softer and even the things that just get in the way like the guy who pulls up in the currency exchange van and blocks the road seemed less troublesome. I took a little bit of the atmosphere of the night home with me.

     Not wanting to end things just yet I decided to head over to gullivers bar again and cap everything off for the night. Simple right? lol. Till tomorrow. Also John if you end up ready this had a great time man. Hope your trip goes well and you have a great time in cambodia.

     This morning didnt exactly start off as planned as I rolled over on my alarm and missed the events at 10:30am with the televised speach by the King. But shit happens and things don't really get underway till later anyway. 

      Soon after getting ready I made my way down to road leading to the grounds which while close are insane to get to and just plain suicidal today. You have to walk across the main road to get to the grounds and theres no lights so your basically playing frogger across 8 lanes of bangkok traffic on each side! I put myself in the middle of a group of thais and went with the flow each time hoping for the best. Being only noon time things where just really getting set up and the place had more of a feel of a state fair than anything else but knew that would change later. The crowds where already in the thousands many coming to see various expos and temple sights brought here for the event.

     I was making my way around just gazing around when I saw a couple guys shying away from a few reporters for local TV. They where doing interviews with the few farang here to see why they came and if they knew what day it was etc. I figured if there was ever a time I could be on TV and not care its in thailand since no one I know will see it. While the guy shown here got the most time I still think Im making a Thai television debut around 11pm haha.

     Further along many families where gathering along various galleries erected to the king and taking pictures almost all with umbrellas for the sun. Still cracks me up to see but its incredibly effective. My head sure would like me to carry around one.

     Right in the center of the grounds leading up to the grand palace is a stage erected in the style of the palace ready to host live music later on. Its a beautiful center stage and really from far away almost looks like an attraction of its own. I almost though it was a entrance for something at first.

     I found out the schedule of events for the day later and back in my room decided to hang out a bit before going back around 5pm to enjoy the start of a long night. For the first time ever the grand palace is going to be open to the public at night and not only that but free as well. Also around 7pm theres a giant candle lighting ceremony I heard about where thousands of candles in balloons are let off to float into the sky at night creating what I can only imagine if an awesome effect. Have to wait and see....

     Have alot to get on here soon and once I get back to a room with wifi I'll get everything up. Everything should be caught up in a day or two. Been having a bit too much fun.

      2pm... Yeah that sounds about right for a wake up time after last night. Aside from eating and waiting for my headache to go away I did have a plan for the day. Noticed there was a small park a 2 minute walk from my guesthouse I only just found out was there and wanted to give it a look. The first thing you see coming around the corner of the road to the park is a large white fort that sits on the park grounds. While the fort itself is of little interest to me historically it takes remarkably good photos. Its small but theres something about it that holds your eye. The day wasn't really cloudy I did have a good time with the pictures. As I was about to move on a thai man stops me and asked me the usual whats your name type questions and then tells me the park is boring and reccomends other attracions lol. Wonder if the standing buddha gives him commisions. 

     I continued on the road into the park which is really quiet and a popular hangout for locals. The entrance is nicely manacured but even more so now as some celebrations for the king will be held here soon enough. I walked around the side past some interesting wall carvings on my way to the water.

      There was a nice pier like spot down by the water to watch the boats come in and get a look at some of the surroundings. Theres a rather large bridge that looks like it could be a twin of the one in boston that I was surprised I hadn't noticed before given how close it is to where I'm staying.

     Headed over to the right side of the park walking past the centerpiece of the park, a rather unimpressive building itself but the walls and flowers around it make for a nice image.

     On the far right side theres alot of residences along the waters edge which make for some interesting images. I loved it and started for quite a bit. It was a huge mess of garbage in the river mixed with boats and clothes lines even chickens in cages... It was a wreck yet it was a beautiful image of the concrete jungle that is bangkok.

      Leaving the park I noticed a small bridge and headed over to look down not realizing until later its the far other side the canal I see from my rooms window. This time there was some action in the water with two people drinking on some steps while two others stood waste deep in the water/sevage scavenging for bottles and fishing. Really interesting to watch people just go about there day in such a place but the though of being in that water kept coming up lol. Brave men.

      Heading away I felt like I had rushed the park a bit and seeing that the post is shorter in writing than I'd like maybe I did. Probably in part to the migrane hangover from yesterday but then again theres only so long you can sit under the trees and relax. Actually it seems weird but I feel more connection with pictures I'm going over now on the computer than I did with actually being at the park. What can you do. Headed over to 7/11 and grabbed some minutes for my phone before heading back to the room until later tonight. Not doing anything other than dinner later and calling it an early night. Going to get up early and try to join the crowds waiting for the King to appear in person at one of the throne halls then spend the day enjoying the festivities.

      Before heading out for a few drinks I went over to the park near my room again as I noticed there was a large amount of foot traffic headed in that direction. It turns out it was for no particular reason but it did lead to something nice. The park has tons of orange lamps lighting up everything at night and makes for a very atmospheric place to sit for a bit. It also seems to be a place for the young locals to partake in debauchery at night and once you get a few strange stares you feel like moving on is a good idea. No differenent than isolated parks back home I guess but here im just not taking chances. Sure there great little buggers :)

     Back behind Khao san rd the main streets leading to the grand palace and festival grounds have been covered in lights and are ready for the parades tomorrow night.

     Back on Khao san I wondered place to place a bit before finally settling down at a sports bar called gullivers popular with locals and expats alike. Was probably there an hour and ready to leave when someone I'd seen both in Lao and Cambodia walks in waiting for his GF. They both sit and I spent a good couple hours with them and had a good time. Probably meet back up tomorrow night after things calm down at the festival.

      Spent the day really just in my room thinking about louds of things and not really having much energy which is normal after those crazy long train rides. Time in the room isn't so bad though mainly due to the fact that the holiday means room choices are limited and my usual fan rooms where full. So I have a nice A/C room with a balcony view of a small canal and buildings. Not the worst thing that could be outside my window.

     So after spending a few hours just lazying about the hotel I wondered out for a bit to eat and wondered Khao san rd a bit looking for something that caught my interesy but soon found myself frankly just bored. It was probably bound to happen considering I'd really just been there but getting here any later would have been a nightmare as things are already getting crazy here with preparations. So I hit the room again and waited a bit until it was a reasonable time to go out and decided to deal with my slightly depressed mood the way the rest of the world does and I've just recently learned to... Drink.

       Nows here where the night should have turned into me just sitting alone pounding a few away for the night to complete the cliche. But things tend to work out for me and right on cue my friend from the train comes strolling by and I motioned for him to come over and he joined me for a drink. Spent an hour or so at the place on khao san before moving a street over to a restaurant wher his gf worked and started again. Much more mellow spot with less extremely loud music with great people watching potential. Had too many, went out and did something dumb and called it a night. Leaving it there.

      Decided to head to bangkok in the morning as I wanted to get there ahead of time before the mass of people decend upon the capital for the Kings birthday on the 5th. Theres really nothing else I want to do back there but I've always missed the celebrations before and would be a shame to again. So gathered everything and had Pon drop me off at the bus station for a local bus that drove the 20 minute ride to the Thai border. Bus is a liberal term here and its really just 30 people crammed into a stretch van. I had about a quarter of a seat and the edge digging into my ass for 20 minutes. It was a pretty shitty 20 minutes. After that though the process is painless just waiting in lines to get stamped out of laos and then again to get stamped into Thailand. From the thai side the train stations only 2 minutes away where I had a 4 hour wait for my train. Could have been brutal but I went across the street and was lucky enough to meet and english guy to chat with and waste away the time. 

      Four hours later I'm boarding the train car ticket in hand for my SLEEPER section lol. Never again will I do the seated 11 hour trip screw saving a few bucks. These seats turn into full beds when they get taken apart by staff around 8pm. Until then I traded stories with a guy from the UK which is always fun. Was kind of disappointed when they started doing the beds right away as then everyone has there curtains up and if your not tired its quite boring. Just tossed and turned for hours until finally sleeping the remaining 7 hours of the trip away. Hell of alot better than being awake for 12 hours sitting down.

      Arriving in Bangkok I was very happy to be off the train was a little ansy getting off as I stepped out while it was still going a bit. Coming to bangkok specifically for the Kings birthday it was interesting to see things already getting prepared in places you wouldn't expect. The entire train station had been transformed into a Tribute to the king and even a specially painted royal yellow train with an interior fit for royalty was being prepared to look pretty on one of the tracks. Flowers lined it all the way around and I'm sure alot more decorating was to come. 

     This train station just has so many themes going on. Its a giant airplane hanger looking structure on the outside with tracks running threw it and now it has a museum like interior....

      Made my way to the front of the station to get a taxi but the taxi stand had an insane line so I just grabbed a moto at a inflated price but alot quicker. It being only 9am I was pretty sure that rooms would be full of people who hadn't checked out yet so need to stall a couple hours. So it was great running into the same guy from the train to kill time. Went and found some place to eat and gave the staff a laugh as I wanted a burger even though it was 9am. They made it though, so awesome. While its always nice hanging out with good company I was really relieved when the time came to go check into a room and drop my bags for a bit. Same place as before so my laptop even had the wifi code remembered which made relaxing a breeze. and so here I am finishing up 3 days of holes in the blog and trying to figure out what to do today. 

      The next morning I was up early about 8am and being wide awake decided to go get some breakfast with my new friend Pon. Didn't really do too much after that until around noon when she told me there was a local hotel where you could pay $2 to use the inground swimming pool for the day and I though it sounded like a great idea. So waited for her to change and grab her moto and off to the pool it was. If it wasn't for the awesome lao father on the other side of the pool teaching his two disabled kids to swim in a screaming lao voice I would have forgotten I was in Lao here. Laid some towels on some chairs for bit and relaxed before grabbing ice cream and then hitting the water. Really great day being able to just jump in and out and not worry about the time. That was a good thing to because it turned into an all day affair not leaving until around 5pm. 

      Rested up in the room a bit and then went out for dinner this time at Le cote'd azur, one a the fancier places in vientiane. Plates are still only $5 though and splurged a little for the night. Put myself in a bit of an awkward spot though because its far from Lao food and I had to order for Pon. Was pretty positive I'd end up eating alone but I ordered 2 spagetti cabanara's and it went over beautifully. Restaurant has a great atmosphere and its a rare thing to be able to get treated by staff like your paying $50 back home when its just $5. 

     After an amazing dinner we headed to the same rooftop bar we were at the night before for a couple drinks and dancing ( well she danced I watched since I can't ) for a couple hours before having too much and heading home to crash. This is what you get when two drunk people try to take a picture :)

      Sleep in past noon and then get food followed by a little relaxing before heading out for the day. Was really starting to like that routine of laziness but still having a full day. Left on the motorbike after eating towards the outskirts of Vientiane proper to stay at Pons place for a bit. Its always crazy driving down the small dirt roads into the communities where people here live. Heads turn in every direction as I pass by on the back of the bike as everyone wonders what the hell this farang is doing well beyond any place tourists go into there backyard. Curious faces soon become smiles though and disarm you immediately. I know I shouldn't have had any preconceived notions of her residence but I was quite shocked at how nice it was. New concrete place with all the amenities. Sat down for a bit and popped in a random DVD which happened to be full of Michael Jackson music videos which was interesting. Young kids from the neighborhood started pouring in and getting into the music. Went walking through the tiny local market nearby soon after to get some water and snacks with all the little guys tagging along. Was quite a spectacle actually. I would say that I wish I had my camera but I know I wouldn't have taken any pictures anyway. Pictures for me are far away where people are part of the scenery not the focus unless asked. Treating kids like zoo animals for great close up pictures I just can't do. Now yesterday on the other hand Im kicking myself in ass for leaving my camera behind and not having it at the pool! 

     Started to head back toward the city around sunset back down the dirt roads and rested up a bit before heading out to eat at a place called Moon The Night. Figured it would be a small riverside place but what I arrived at was the largest gathering of people at on restaurant I'd ever seen. It just didn't compute at all. Like 400 lao people in a 4 storey restaurant with nearly all the tables full. Quite intimidating to walk into but once you sit down you somehow feel at home. Was probably the table of about 25 next to us drinking like fish celebrating something. Never seen lao people get so drunk in my life. The menu here was only in Lao so in a reverse of last night I had to hope whatever she ordered was paleteable for my stomache. Ended up being some great fried rice with seafood and somehow it came within like 10 minutes even with like 400 orders been taking. Stayed for quite a bit just hanging out before heading looking for a watering hole for a few before calling it a night. Found a small pub style place with a local band that capped of the evening nicely.